kyliegirl

written by Anna Browning, Windsor Dobermans submitted by Marj Brooks, Manorie Dobermans NOTE: "The wetter the dog, the less soap you will need for a good lather". Anna also said to dilute the soap. If you do this just about any soap will work including Joy dish detergent. The shampoo however must have the right p/h balance for dogs. I suggest that you print this out, try it and learn to bathe your dogs this way. Here are Anna's instructions: Many years ago, while at the Western States Veterinary Conference, I attended a lecture on Dermatology. The speaker started off by saying, " I'll bet you that most of you don't know how to bathe a dog...". Well, we all laughed, but he then piped in, "Seriously, I'll bet you that at least 90% of you are doing it wrong!". Silence came over the room as he explained. Most people bathe their dogs in warm water. This, he said, is for the owner's comfort ... not the dog's! His rules for bathing were: 1. Bathe in tepid water -- when I say bathe in tepid water, this really means room temperature water ... NOT warm. I thought I'd clarify this as some people think that tepid means warm. If in doubt, go COLDER, not warmer. 2. Use a hypoallergenic/PH balanced DOG shampoo 3. Wet the dog thoroughly 4. Dilute the shampoo before putting it on the animal 5. Start at the head of the dog, and using ONLY your finger TIPS (NEVER the fingernails!), gently massage the dog WITH the grain of the hair... NEVER rub against the grain of the hair. 6. Once the entire dog is properly bathed, rinse in tepid water 7. Rinse again 8. When you think you've rinsed enough, rinse one more time! Other rules are: 1. Don't over bathe (don't bathe too often... he suggested once a month if needed). 2. If you do bathe, use an conditioning spray afterwards, such as HyLyt Bath Oil Spray to replace essential oils removed by bathing. 3. When petting the dog, don't rub against the grain of the hair.... especially important in short haired breeds without undercoat!! His theory on "bathing reactions" are: People use warm water to wet the dog. This opens the pores. They then put shampoo on the dog, full strength, irritating the skin. The person then "scrubs" the dog against the grain of the hair, using the fingernails to get the dog "good and clean"! This further irritates the skin. They rinse the dog, again with warm water, shoving the shampoo into the open, irritated hair follicle. They don't rinse thoroughly enough and once the warm water stops running, and the dog starts to dry, the pores close. Now, you have an irritated hair follicle. This irritated hair follicle now becomes infected, leading to folliculitis (those little zits your dogs usually get the day after bathing!!). The owner then thinks the dog is allergic to the shampoo and has to go to the vet to get hydroxizine and prednisone to make the bumps/pustules go away. At the end of the lecture, the room was DEAD QUIET! Myself included. Up until that point I really didn't know how to bathe dogs!

high value rewards dont have to be treats, they can be a good game of tug, a game of ball, a good belly rub. Different dogs like different things the key to reward training is having something which really motivates them, and not all dogs like food or as motivated by food.

I am planning very early but in a year I will be buying myself a lovely male doberman puppy whcih I will be training via clicker training and positive reinforcement. While I havent found many puppy schools online I did come across one which did clicker training. http://www.urbandogtraining.com.au My only problem is both areas they train are so far away, and I dont want to do private training as the whole reason I will be taking the puppy to school is to learn good puppy citizenship, good socialization and so it will learn how to act with distractions and how to act around other dogs and people. The free puppy play sessions also sound like a great idea to take my future pup to as it will continue to teach him bite inhibition, self control and keep him stimulated. But again the distance is an issue. Is there any other puppy schools closer to the center of brisbane that do clicker training?

you shouldve grabbed the stick and whacked the kid in the face and repeated "why wont you play with me!" hell i wouldve

how is that funny? I find that very selfish of the man and very unfair.. Actually alot of you ppl seem to have men who seem very selfish and unfair, esp babyluvachi whos OH has rules to the house, what happened to equality? is he your father? why does everything have to go HIS way in the house where is your freedom of the house? I thought the point of living in your own house with someone was for freedom of your own rules and to enjoy the house and not be bound by someone elses rules, he sounds like hes fathering you more than making you equal. I have NEVER had these issues with my OH, we both debate and reason to what we like and dislike, we request but we never force eachother on things while yes I wont let the cats in the bedroom as much as I would love them to, its because I want to sleep and not hear my oh suffer all night from allergies. We dont dissalow eachother to do things, hell if i wanted the cat on the bed i could bring the cat on the bed, sure my oh may not be happy about it but its my choice, and its also his choice to remove the cat off the bed. If we buy something like clothes or pay bills, pet food etc, while the cat was my choice to buy we share all the money. Money is not HIS or MINE, its OURS, as is the house, its OURS, not HIS or MINE, the food is OURS, the bills are OURS, the cat is OURS, we are together and being together means sharing the pain and joy, we share the problems, we share the house, we share the food we share the responsibility. Wether or not it was me or him who got the cat or dog or shoes or car, we share the responsibility. I dont have a liscence but I am more than happy to pay for petrol one day. My OH may not like cats but he will be more than happy to buy cat litter and cat food and clean out the litter when he gets home to replace it. Thats what a relationship is supposed to be like, you share everything together. So far we haven't ever argued, we have been living happily together for 5 years like this and there is never a problem, only solutions to reasoning and discussion.

just because your puppy did doesnt mean someone elses can, it all depends on the puppy, its personality, how much it was fed, how much it drank, if it went to the toilet before hand, if it had been to the toilet more than once in a 24 hr period, it its sick, could have a urinary infection, if it is lonely or scared, maybe it cant hold it as easy, maybe it was asleep when it did it. You simply cannot expect a puppy to beable to always hold it in. They are of course babies and will have accidents all the time. You can have children at 12 years old still wetting the bed and another child who never wet the bed in their life. It all depends on the child and the situation. Even now we may wake up one day and may not need to go to the toilet for 48 hrs, then suddenly a few weeks later we are tearing through the house to reach the toilet before our bladder explodes even though you had just been 3 hrs before. Some foods and drinks also go through your digestive track faster than other things, for all you know they could be feeding a different dog food which isnt as beneficial and is full of fluid so it passes through faster.

you cant expect a 13 week puppy to hold on for 4 hours, also by the sounds of it your not treating his crate as a good thing, instead a bad thing which in turn means he wont respect it and treat it like his safe place or den, so again he will pee in it as it doesnt provide the comfort to respect it. the best way to fix this is do EVERYTHING involving the crate, throw toys in it, play games around it, play the dont move when the door opens game where you treat at the back of the crate and if he stays he gets a better treat. throw treats in the crate, throw his favourite toys in there, when he falls asleep place him in there with the door open, place the crate where you sleep at night, you cant expect that putting a puppy in a crate with some toys will create a positive thing. You have to interact with the crate and the puppy to make him know the crate isnt a bad place, its a safe place, a bedroom and a fun place to be. dont shove him in there, instead place a treat closer and closer inside, making the treats better as he gets closer and then when he goes inside SHOWER him with sausages, cheese and many many yummy things he loves to eat which he doesnt often get.

I have noticed with dobermans that if you desex a male puppy at 6 weeks compared to 12 months, you will notice a big difference in conformation, male dobermans desexed after 12 mths are alot stockier while male dobes desexed at 6 weeks and very leggy and tend to have smaller builds. I haven't noticed it as much in females but I have noticed it alot in male dobermans.

cats eat grass now and then, that is plant matter, it does not mean they are omnivores.. camels, sheep, cows, hippos are all herbivores and will eat their own kind or meat at one stage or another but it does not mean they are omnivores. their first preferance is plants. dogs, dingoes, wolves, African wild dogs all hunt prey and eat meat but will also eat some plant matter much like cats do but in larger quantities, this doesn't make them omnivores. Their first preference is meat. all wild and domestic cats are hypercarnivores also known as an obligate carnivore, while they can eat plant matter their system will not take anything beneficial from it and is solely build for meat. they usually eat plants as an emetic. an omnivore is something who will eat both meat and veg and do not take preference in either. humans, pigs, chickens and some species of bears are all omnivores. detrivores are animals that eat decomposing matter like dung, rotting foliage. such animals are dung beetles and millepede's. insectivores are solely insect consuming species like spiders and praying mantises, echidnas.

place a bowl of raw meat on the ground on one side, and place a bowl of vegetables on the other side. What do you think the dog will go for first.. yes dogs can eat vegetation but it doesn't mean its their ideal food. A dog is an opportunistic feeder, even so if it finds a nice raw piece of steak it will happy ignore all those plants you offer for that steak, they aren't made to eat a veggie diet, they have a complete set of sharp teeth and no grinding teeth. They can survive on scraps and plants because most animals have to at one stage or another.. for example- if a camel in the desert has no other means of food it will turn on its own kind and eat its own kind, even though its a herbivore, if it isn't getting food elsewhere it will turn to an unnatural diet. Does this make a camel an omnivore?

You can see on the photo that they are the same weight as before. Who says there are preservatives in now? i was asking if they do or not. not that they were.

The Australian Small Animal Veterinary Association (ASAVA) is calling for a review of pet food labelling laws in Australia. According to ASAVA President, Dr Matthew Retchford, there is currently no legislative control in Australia over ingredients in pet food and, in particular, whether preservatives are added. The most common preservative added to pet food is sulphur dioxide (Preservative 220-228), which is sometimes added to fresh meat and processed, unrefrigerated pet food rolls as a method to obtain long shelf life. The preservative masks the signs of putrification, such as bacteria odour and red meat turning brown. However, sulphur dioxide also rapidly deactivates thiamine (vitamin B1) in pet food. "Thiamine is an essential source of energy for dogs and cats, vital for repairing body tissues and vital for brain function," Retchford says. "Severe deficiency can lead to hemorrhage in the brain and loss of sections of brain tissue." Evidence of thiamine deficiency in dogs includes poor appetite, loss of body weight, lethargy, lack of interest, wobbliness and, in extreme cases, brain injury charecterised by depression and even leading to death. "Acute signs of thiamine deficiency as observed by the ASAVA, occur when the dogs are exclusively fed a diet of highly sulphited pet meat," Retchford warns. The food standard code in Australia and New Zealand, which regulates food for human consumption, states that all raw meat, poultry and game must not contain sulphur dioxide. "But there are no legal requirements for pet companies to list additives and preservatives in labelling text, despite the high levels of sulphur dioxide found in chilled Australian pet foods," Retchford says. "The ASAVA calls for levels of sulphur dioxide and any other preservative in pet food to be kept low enough to not interfere with thiamine levels, and for improvements in pet food labelling to ensure consumers understand what they are putting in their pet's food bowl." If you choose to feed your pet fresh meat as part of a balanced diet, the ASAVA recommends meat suitable for human consumption and preferably on the bone, but ruling out cooked and flavoured human treats or scraps. For more information on canine nutrition, keep your paws open for the #90 July/August 2008 edition of Dogs Life, which is a Health and Nutrition Special.

is there a change in packaging weight, are the patties still 227g each? or have they reduced their weight too with this new packaging? they remind me of commercial cat food packaging now and it makes me concerned if they also place preservatives in it now..

i currently buy the cat BARF patties in the plastic bag, i never found it messy as they are always frozen when I buy them, so it takes alot of banging sometimes to seperate them so they are easier to feed later.. I generally buy them, place some in the freezer and then the next 3 days worth of food are seperated up and placed in plastic containers, each patty seperated with a sheet of baking paper so they dont stick together and become a mess to break up. Then I place 1 container in the freezer and 2 in the fridge (one container holds 3 patties) once one of the containers is emptied, i bring out the frozen one to defrost and place more patties in the used container and place it in the freezer (after sanitizing it) and continue this process.

What are the benefits of green tripe? Green tripe retains an attractive odor dogs love. This odor is literally “washed away” unless the tripe is green. Benefits for the dog include noticeably better coats, more luster and shine no more flaky skin, richer color, etc. Other breeders rave about how white the dog’s teeth are and the lack or need for dental attention. Most breeders will comment about their better stools and are impressed with their increased vitality and energy levels. Most breeders agree that green tripe is the perfect food for a canine. What makes green tripe the perfect ingredient? There are many nutritional benefits from eating green tripe. It contains a very diverse profile of nutrients including enzymes, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, probiotics, and phytonutrients. Green tripe assists your canine in utilizing their food as well, aiding in the digestion process. It can also be used as an appetite stimulator. In cases where dogs refuse to eat their meal it can aid in stimulating the appetite. Diets that do not contain live enzymes put a greater stress on the pancreas and other organs to help to breakdown food. Why is green tripe so healthy? Since tripe is taken from cow’s stomachs, they receive nutrients from grasses and grains that have been already processed naturally by the cow's stomach system. Also present within the tripe are naturally occurring gastric juices, amino acids and live enzymes not found in processed or cooked foods. These gastric juices are excellent cleaners for teeth. Amino acids are necessary for proper muscular development. It is also an excellent source of protein, fiber, fat and delivers equal calcium to phosphorus ratios. Green tripe also contains Lactic Acid bacteria, also known as Lactobacillus Acidophilus which is a good intestinal bacteria and a main ingredient in probiotics source- http://www.thedogbowl.com/PPF/category_ID/0_84/dogbowl.asp

I have been trying to write out a general question list to ask when I purchase a doberman puppy, I am not sure if some of the questions I ask are irrelevant or worth asking but I would love some help. Do you currently posses a blue litter registration slip? Have you ever had a case of Wobblers in your dobermans breeding history? Are your dobermans tested for vWD? are they clear/affected/carriers? Are your dobermans also tested for hips, cardio and thyroid? Do you do any training with the puppies before they go to new homes? Are your puppies registered, vaccinated, Vet checked and microchipped before going to new homes? Am I allowed to recieve copies of their health and vaccination records and registration papers? What diet are your Dobermans and their puppies currently fed? Have you ever had a case of pavo virus in your area or your puppies contracting pavo virus? What age do you let your puppies go to new homes? Am I able to reserve a puppy next year? What is the price of your puppies? Am I able to contact you in the future if any questions/concerns arise? these are currently the questions I would ask via email or phone. Are they good or bad? should I change some or add some more? While the price isn't a big concern for me, I would still like to know how much they sell their puppies for.

you could always do the 101 uses for a box. This should help her understand you are wanting her to make up new things. how it works is just grab a simple box and throw it on the ground, if she sniffs it, click and treat, if she steps near it, click and treat, if she sits in it, click and treat, keep clicking and treating for every new thing she does, ignoring the last one if she keeps trying to repeat it, this will teach her to think and invent. Reading a clicker training book atm called "Getting started: Clicker training for dogs" by karen pryor and I am up to the 101 uses for a box. A very good read

is it a balcony sliding door? if so you can buy one of these http://www.piginmud.com.au/joomla/dog-patio-doors/index.php

Its great to see your feeding raw foods pebbles, just be careful feeding raw eggs, its usually alot safer to feed them cooked. Raw eggs Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella. :D Liver is really good for animals but too high in quantity can be bad and can cause a vitamin A toxicity which affects muscles and bones. heres a good link of what to avoid or only feed in small amounts. http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cl...;articleid=1030

Fat contents in processed foods often don't vary all that much, regardless of price. Read the bags if you don't believe me. What causes the price to vary is the source of the protein, the quality and source of the fillers used and what preservatives/flavour enhancers and nutrients are added. I'd say the most common cause of canine obesity is the same as human obesity.. too much food and not enough exercise. It's more the quantity of food dogs receive rather than the quality in a lot of cases. Most processed pet foods contain sufficient nutrients - a surfeit of them in many cases. Following your analogy about processed foods not being best for us, what leads you to conclude that higher quality processed foods are best for dogs? Is an expensive breakfast cereal automatically going to be better for us than a cheap one? Is Nutrigrain better for you than Cocopops? Or Wheatbix? its not just the fat contents in the food I am talking about its the amount which will be preserved into fat because the body cannot use it because it contains no actual nutrition for the dog. Take home brand pet food for example, the chicken/veggie, the meat cubes in that can are actually a mixture of grains to create a "false meat" in other words just a filler, nothing more. what the body doesnt use but can use later it will store up as body fat, even while your exercising it will store it up until you burn it off. Most cereals are just a filler, while grains are beneficial for humans as we use carbohydrates as an energy source they dont exactly have the same benefits for dogs. Grains are high in carbohydrates and dogs do not require large amounts, this again causes a severe increase in weight gain as carbohydrates turn into fat cells.

thanks for the tip danois I think the difference to feeding a brand of food like PAL to a more expensive brand like ORIJEN is the fact that these premium foods allow you to feed less as it fills them up more because they are getting their daily needs from the meals, compared to foods like PAL where 70% of it is water and the dog is still left hungry and still lacking some daily needs of vitamins and protein. While yes our dogs thrive on the cheap dog food, the point is, is it actually good for them? most brands are like hamburger versions for dogs, causing obesity because of the amount of fat in them or the lack of real meats and vitamins. It isnt to say it will kill them, but it may not be the healthiest option for them either. Most of todays world evolves around premade food like muesli bars and premade meals, while they are perfectly fine for us to eat, it doesnt mean they are healthy for us. Many of the muesli bars contain way to much sugars and carbohydrates along with certain preservatives which can cause health issues later on in life. It doesn't complete you daily dietry needs and sometimes can exceed the maximum daily intake. Most of what we eat isnt digested and the liver stores it up as fat cells because its recieving too much, so instead of expelling the waste the body stores in case you suddenly find yourself stranded for weeks with no food. This eventually leads to obesity, and premade foods are one of the biggest reasons obesity is a problem.

Cinnamon and allspice dog biscuits Two cups whole wheat flour One cup Pollenta Water 6 tablespoons olive oil One egg One teaspoon brown sugar One teaspoon vanilla Two tablespoons cinnamon One teaspoon allspice Mix everything together and add the water until it comes together in one lump. Cut into shapes 2cm thick (I believe cat is a favourite). Cook at 180C for 45 minutes. Bacon Bits 6 slices cooked bacon, crumbled 4 eggs, well beaten 1/8 cup bacon fat 1 cup water 1/2 cup non-fat dry milk powder 2 cup graham flour 2 cup wheat germ 1/2 cup cornmeal Mix ingredients with a strong spoon; drop heaping tablespoonfuls onto a greased baking sheet. Bake in a 180C oven for 15 minutes. Turn off oven and leave cookies on baking sheet in the oven overnight to dry out. Yield: about 4 dozen dog cookies. Bad Breath Banishers 2 cups brown rice flour 1 Tablespoon activated charcoal (find this at drugstores, not the briquets!) 3 Tablespoons canola oil 1 egg 1/2 cup chopped fresh mint 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley 2/3 cup lowfat milk Preheat oven to 205C. Lightly oil a cookie sheet. Combine flour and charcoal. Add all the other ingredients.Drop teaspoonfulls on oiled sheet, about 1 inch apart. Bake 15-20 minutes. Store in airtight container in the refrigerator. heres a link to many many home made doggy recipes http://www.bullwrinkle.com/Assets/Recipes/Recipes.htm pretty cool site me thinks :D

my condolences to you and your family :D Pru was a very beautiful girl, she will always be with you. :D

Its natural, all animals eat other animals faeces. It is most common in young animals, they do it to boost their immune system. faeces can also be a good source of nutrients and protien and give them some helpful bacteria. its disgustingly good for them.. eventually they should stop. here you go

I know what you mean, my old cat who lives with my dad was fed homebrand dry and wet catfood (we called it cardboard food) and shes going on 20! It is true though that you should be careful what you feed, some people have had issues with vitamin b deficiencies in dogs because some pet food companies use a certain products which preserve the food but at the same time removes all the vitamins. You should also be very careful when they say Meat-By-Products, this could mean a variety of things, chicken heads, legs, cow parts deemed not consumable for humans like tumerous parts, they even use euthanised cats and dogs in pet food as its cheaper to get, the addition of corn and grain are just fillers which make it seem like it fills your pet up but most cases they arent getting enough nutrition, they can thrive on it yes.. But its like humans eating hamburgers from maccas their whole lives, we know its bad for us and yes we can thrive on it, but there is alot of bad stuff in those burgers which are very unhealthy for us. I am going on a rawfood diet myself, found a pet store here who provides DR. B's RAW B.A.R.F. - http://www.barfqld.com.au/index.htm btw these two companies currently sell premium pet food http://www.pawzazzpetz.com.au/gpage17.html http://www.naturalpetstore.com.au/products.php?cat=5 just a side note- I started feeding my cats Raw BARF 3 months ago, since then their breath doesnt smell, their coats are soft and shiney, they poop less and it doesnt smell as bad as it used to. It really made a difference.