kyliegirl

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=h6bX1zq5HBg there you go, a video on how to walk your puppy on a lead and how to make it positive and easy. by the way, when she cries dont make any noises to her as that encourages it and later on you will have the problem that she will automatically do it as she walks because it was reinforced that way.. Just walk her, give her treats, toys, and say and do nothing when she cries etc, just keep going.

my family used to have a bitsa which when you gave her a bone, she would try to bury it in cement next to a tuft of grass growing between the cement and the house wall.. And if she seen you watching she would pick it up, run around with it and pretend shes looking for somewhere to bury it, wait until your not looking and try and bury it there again. If you were looking again she would repeat the process. she also thought a maggot infested bone would look great on my mums rug! I almost threw up when I picked up the bone, it poured out maggots over the rug!

thanks mrsD, there is an obedience school just 10 mins drive from me, they seem to have alot going on so maybe they could help me later with agility and canine freestyle Will have to see.

well i live in darra, towards ipswich way.

Have you still got the breeders information, have you got his papers? I would suggest you call your breeder and try to gain as much proof as possible of your dogs lines, his papers, photos of his parents, along with copies of your vet papers and council papers. I am sorry this has happened it sucks with the stupidity of people these days but we cant change that and all you can do is try your hardest to prove them wrong Even contact your local club for some assistance

http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/index.htm#puppy http://www.clickertraining.com/ its your best friend

thanks for the info unfortunately im south west, about 30 min drive to the vip training centre, not too bad i guess but I am sure these $1 fuel prices wont last and I do not have a liscence as of yet.

sorry poodlefan but which one is that one I would love to give canine freestyle a shot, it looks like so much fun!

I wonder if there will be trainers in brissy which will be avaliable to do this

I have crate games, its an excellent dvd and really gives better insight on not only making the crate positive, but can also assist with agility and recall training.

I had a pup who did this to the point she would suffocate herself, what we did was added some large rocks to her meal, this slowed her down and she started breathing again. After a while we removed the rocks one by one, and would occasionally add food so she knew we weren't stealing it, even taking the bowl away to put more food in, so she knew that even if the bowl is taken away, more food will go in so she didnt need to rush eating it. Eventually we didnt need rocks in the bowl anymore and she ate casually.

I would say not until she is properly toilet trained and when you have given her some basic obedience training. I also wouldn't let her have run of the rooms unsupervised and alone until she is 12 months old and properly trained.

I would keep an eye on your pup if he eats it again.. crystal litter is made up of silica gel and is designed to absorb stuff, so you would probably want to give some puppy milk to encourage it to drink it up to prevent any issues.

rofl, this dog amazes me.

I am not sure its a good thing, having two puppies alone is alot of work and your children will complain after the first few weeks. Let alone just because your on holidays doesnt mean its good. What happens after the holidays, the puppies will be so used to you all being home that now suddenly noone is home at all? this will encourage destructive behaviour and nuisance barking because they werent trained to be used to you all not being home, its a very big change of scenery. Its like leaving a child who has known you to be around everyday and hour of their life on their own at the age of 2, they definately make a giant fuss and start screaming and carrying on. You can have all the faith you like with your children but the fact is, they arent you, they arent in your age of 15 years ago where things were different, children and raising children has changed since then, infact you didn't have half the toys and gadgets we do now 15 years ago, so it makes a big difference. The children will be excited the first few weeks with the puppy but like every other child in this world, will grow bored and start going back to their gameboys, computers and other toys and forget the puppy is there. I agree you should never get two puppies at once for all the reasons stated, but its obvious that you are ox headed for not taking any of the advice given apart from what you wanted to hear.. Raising puppies has also changed over these past 15 years, people are more experienced with them, know how to properly raise them, so how you think the puppies should be trained might seem right to you, might have changed these past 15 years. Actually it has changed ALOT in these past 15 years, its not a leave the dog out the bark yard thing anymore, 15 years ago people thought rubbing puppies noses in accidents actually taught them something, guess what IT DOESNT.. A breeder who has been breeding for 20 years doesnt mean they are an ethical breeder either, many puppy farms have been breeding for longer and are still functioning, do you think they know anything about the breed they are breeding? or if they are supplying the correct mental stimulation and diets for these dogs? I dont think so, you cant rate a persons knowledge on something by the years they have put into it. You rate it by how much they know about the breed of dog they have, and its history, where it began etc. You can say you know what you are doing, but its obvious that you dont with the way you are responding. I have had pups and dogs all my life from being born to growing up and even now I can proudly admit that even after all these years of having dogs and training my own I am still learning, you dont stop learning. Many of these people on here specialize in breeding dogs and knowing about the dog they are breeding, they are experienced ethical breeders, some mightve been breeding for only 2 yrs, but they KNOW because they took the effort to learn everything about their breed, to go to dog shows etc. Having a pet dog doesnt make you a guru, it definately doesnt mean you know what your doing. You need to go full force into it, learn everything about the breeds history, go to dog shows to know conformations etc. Its not an "I owned a dog for 15 yrs and now I know how to raise them" thing.

A clicker should never be used as a distraction, it is only a training tool to act as a reinforcer. clicking a dog to distract it only gives it a reinforcer of what it was just doing and will do it again. I am not sure how a clicker would go with a dog chasing a cow etc but from what I have read positive reinforcement isnt used to avoid a situation you are just altering a situation. eg- dog likes to dig, teach it to wipe its paws on a mat with the digging action. Dog plays with your clothes, teach it to chuck them in a basket. Its just giving the dog a more desirable alternative to use its abilities. Technically if a dog runs off to chase a cow, then obviously the dog didn't find you as reinforcing as the enjoyment of chasing a cow.. Your supposed to train the dog in all situations with the clicker, which is the reason why it works is because all your doing is continuously rewarding the dog and reinforcing behaviours and keeping the dogs focus on YOU. as for prongs and shock collars, both are considered nasty (especially how the prong looks) but even though I wont use either, it doesnt mean that they arent useful in the right hands. The same thing as choke collars and harnesses, all of these can be used the wrong way, but if you know how to use them are actually extremely harmless to the dog.

this is probably a better demonstration of shock collar he goes through all 8 levels to know responsibly what levels to use so they know how to use it appropriately. While I would never use one, it is possible in the right hands to be used right.

heres the instructions on how to do 101 things to do with a box http://www.clickertraining.com/node/167 i would really suggest you buy karen pryors books :D

I would really suggest 101 things to do with a box if your having problems shaping, as it encourages the dog to offer you things and helps things to be shaped faster. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXKUAB33KYg Another option is to use a mat and stop your dog when it reaches the mat and click and treat, making it a marker to the dog to help it learn. You can use the mat to train alot of other things too, like walk along drops and sits. Gradually you could fold the mat or make it smaller until its completely gone.

first the point of using a lure is that they follow it, not try to eat it, your supposed to make your hand or stick the target/lure and phase out the treat on the lure. You NEVER feed them the treat they are being lured with and you should never use a treat to lure after they get the idea what your hand/stick does. Always make the treat you give which isnt the lure better than the lure. Phase out the treat in the hand, they arent supposed to be following the treat in your hand, theyre supposed to be following your hand. Make your hand the target and teach a trick called "touch" so they nose your hand, this helps to teach tricks like stand also. second I would suggest 101 tricks with a box, so your pup gets the idea that simple random things can be reinforced and therefore it will encourage it to think more and figure out puzzles easier so it gets the idea that when you go to teaching things like stand (an everyday thing for a dog) they realise that "hey, when i stop moving and do this thing i do all the time they reward me!". Dont just reward a stand when your trying to teach it, clicker training is like taking photos, you click when you get the right action, so if your puppy suddenly stands still for a second or two you click and treat, let it run around then stop and stand still, click and treat, when they sit then stand, click and treat.. After they get the idea teach a hand signal to the stand, and only treat when they stand on the hand signal. You also should never give a cue until the pup knows EXACTLY what it is they are doing, give a hand signal and then shape the trick until they do it exactly how you want it, then give it a cue. A cue shouldnt be given until the action is exactly what your training for, otherwise it will confuse the dog later.

she is by far the best teacher i have seen for free.. dont expect that just because your pup did it in the bedroom it will do it everywhere, you need to bombproof your dog. Which means take it everywhere with you, markets, cities, shopping malls, parks, schools, beaches, the tip, bushwalks, footy training and train them in these situations, even just standing behind them, having a sausage on the ground, a towel on your shoulder or on the dog are all disctractions and are reinforcements to create a reliable command. Everytime you go to a new area with new things you need to train from square one again. I REALLY suggest you also watch this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1U4rOFBPhk its how to teach a reliable stay, it pretty much shows you the whole process you need to do for every command you do to make it bombproof. btw she taught her puppy Splash who is now 7 1/2 months and knows more tricks than most dogs do. a few she has taught her dog are sit, down, fetch (specific items), paint, weave through legs, nod, shy, bow, catch your tail, flick the switch, go to your mat, say hello, say goodbye, touch, backwards weave, leave it, walk backwards, heel, skateboard, spin, hold hands, rollover, crawl and much more. Most of these the puppy learn at 12 weeks which proves that with hard work and patience pays off.

I think urban dog training is my best option, has anyone actually been to urban dog training? I would like some feedback about this place.

I guess people mistake what tepid means.. tepid - moderately warm; "he hates lukewarm coffee"; "tepid bath water" lukewarm warm - having or producing a comfortable and agreeable degree of heat or imparting or maintaining heat; "a warm body"; "a warm room"; "a warm climate"; "a warm coat" we must remember the body heat froma dog is different to the human, especially with the extra fur. And because they cannot sweat through pores their body would heat up faster than a humans, having their paws in the water doesnt help either as they sweat through their tongue and feet. I believe the meaning of pores opening on the dogs skin is actually about the hair openings on the dogs skin. Dogs constantly regrow and shed hair and in these cases would mean the hair pores would be opening up to release the hairs, the pores around these hairs also release natural oils called sebaceous glands, the more hairs on an animals body the more sebaceous glands they have that create this substance. Even though dogs dont sweat they still have movements in the skin which adapt to certain temperatures, warm water would heat the dogs skin causing it to slightly swell and open up the hair pores letting soap and water in. You may think that by opening up it means to open up like a flower, but it only needs to be the slightest microscopic opening to create a difference. It can also interfere with hair growth causing ingrown hairs or you could cause pimples from having too hot water and not washing the skin properly. just because dogs cant sweat doesnt mean they dont have pores and it doesnt mean their body isnt trying to regulate it by other means. A dog pants when its body overheats, but their tongue and paws arent the only things that cool them down, even though they dont sweat their hair follicles would open up to "Air out" as another cooling mechanism. Every animal has pores on their skin, its how they have fur. They just dont have the sweat glands IN the pores. how do you think dogs get mange? the parasites burrow into their pores in their skin. heres some info on dog skin to help some of you guys if your curious http://www.bullterrierworld.com/Skincare.html

thanks for the link gsdog, I am really looking forward to getting a dobe pup next year, I have already picked the list of toys and bedding, crating etc. I really want to do the right thing for this pup so both us and the pup benefit from it when hes older.

all of those places are nowhere near brisbane, i live on south side and those are further than what the one i listed was. Clayfield is close but because I live south it still a bit far too.