kyliegirl

thanks gaylek, I can understand completely that from a homeowners POV they would deny any more pets because they couldn't trust one person with their pets to obey the rules. I dont want to ruin it for other pet owners either, its already hard finding a rental on the market that allows pets in brisbane I will try make it as comfortable as possible for the puppy as I can I will just take twice as much effort making sure its all a positive experience for him.

its an external laundry, the door in the kitchen goes into the laundry which is 2 steps down and on cement. then there is a door that goes to the outside.. The problem with letting the puppy inside is my OH is adamant on obeying the landlords, he knows they probably wont find out if it was inside but he wont risk it. Not even for a few hours at night.. He is a REAL goodie too shoes

I have waited over 3 years now, and I have already placed a deposit on the pup, the lines of this particular pup are exceptional and I do not want to miss out on the chance to have such a well bred pup. Sure there might be more, but The timing right now is right as I do not work complete weeks at the moment.. In 6 months time that might change.. And then I will have even less time to raise and train the puppy the way I would like. Even though he would be inside then, he may not receive as much attention and training as he will in these coming months that I will be able to provide. tried that no go. Tried this too, but they mentioned something about the floorboards only being able to be sanded 3 times before they are too thin.

thanks I have the crate training dvd, I really want to do all of those methods to make the crate a great place, I know the crate doesn't need to be inside to do these, but I thought it would be alot easier for the puppy if he could've slept in his crate beside our bed compared to in his crate alone.. Which might give a bad experience.. And also easier to train to prevent any accidents in the crate. especially when the door would be closed in 6 mths time when its indoors.. How would I combat that? Is there anything I can do to make sleeping alone outside not so bad for the pup?

nope it was a change of mind.. they decided that a doberman would be too big to be allowed indoors and they dont want the floors scratched.

my puppy will be with me in 5 weeks.. Originally I had complete plans to raise the puppy to both indoors/outdoors, being indoors the entire time we were home and doing the strategy of positive reinforcement and very strict supervision to ensure the puppy never had a chance to make a mistake.. I have a dog run lines up for him to go into when we work, and plans for toys, a crate, training tools and a puppy school lined up. But now the landlords of the house we are in have strictly said no dogs inside, which has completely blown up my plans of properly training the puppy how to behave indoors.. And my OH is adamant to stick with the rules no matter how much we don't like them. So the closest the puppy will be allowed to inside is the laundry, which I don't like but is unfortunately the case.. I still want to crate train, and go with our plans as I wanted, but the indoors training will not be possible until we buy our own house in 6 months, which then the puppy will have full access to inside and outside like I had planned and be a complete part of the family.. I will just have to go to step 1 again when we go to the new home so there is no mistakes in the house. What can I do? I had everything planned but now its been broken in shambles, I am more than willing to spend as much time as possible outside with the puppy to train him and give him attention.. But what about when it comes to night time, the poor boy will be alone to sleep in the laundry in his crate free to scream murder and betrayal.. I need some suggestions and some help, a strategy, a guide to help the puppy cope the first few weeks.. No doubt the poor thing is going to spend the first few nights screaming, and unless I want a very angry OH and the risk of being blacklisted and booted by the tenants, there is nothing much else I can do.. I am at a loss I want him to be a huge part of our family, but the first 6 months he will need to stay outside against all of our wishes Any help is appreciated.

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I am trying to plan ahead, and I would love to know everyones opinion of a particular puppy/obedience school, they seem to do clicker/positive reinforcement training. The school is called Wagtails http://www.wagtails.com.au/ I plan to do puppy school to assist with socialisation (being a long way out of brisbane, none of my friends have dogs nor do i have my own license - my oh carts me everywhere - means I have less ways to socialise) I also want a school where I could begin doing obedience and agility as the pup matures. This puppy school is the closest to me being only a 5 min drive away (so my OH wont get annoyed taking me there, if it was further away it would bother him with the cost of fuel etc) so has anyone been there or had any experiences with the trainers there? do they have a good understanding of dog behaviour and training techniques?

sounds like a sleep disorder where the animal acts out its dreams. heres some info in it

I have been planning to make a "live" diary for my pup when hes born with a blog. I think its a great way to share with friends and keep a constant updated page of your pets without running out of pages to use! it also means you can show everyone and you don't need to carry a book around

i found them in the compost section in bris

I found this website, while it was for people stuff I am wondering if these poles will be a cheaper alternative to buying dog agility poles from other sources http://www.universalselfdefence.com.au/pro...ity_poles/466/1 in that page is $19.95 per pole so $119.7 for 6 however http://www.universalselfdefence.com.au/pro...s_2_piece/469/1 on this one you spend 29.95 for 2 poles which for each pole is $14.97 for each pole, which makes buying 6 $89.85 What do you think?

1- dont humanise him, you may love the dog but its a dog, they do not have the same emotions as humans so dont feel sorry for the dog if it doesnt eat. He wont be going "why arent you feeding me, why dont you love me" dogs dont think like that.. The food is either there, or its not.. 2- dogs can survive fine without food for quite a few days, they were built with the chance of lack of food in mind and are able to survive without food for quite a few days or even weeks depending on the situation.. 3- use the dogs dinner/brekky for treats in/part of training, this will ensure that even if he doesnt eat dinner or brekky he is still eating it and it will also help you to keep a good balance in weight and reduces the amount of random food given to the dog. as for dogs eating human food, human food a few years back was ALOT healthier than human food is today, so this argument doesnt exist.. Have you seen all the preservatives etc in human food today? 10 years back most of it didnt exist.. So feeding todays human food isnt a good idea and is a cause for animal obesity and health issues due to high salt/sugar/fat intake along with too much random wheat products.

I am glad they took the vick dogs in and not PETA or HSUS, both of those wanted to kill them, I am glad they got the second chance they deserved!

thanks everyone so far for the information its helping alot, and thanks pf about the horse part, I did notice horses are given alot of time for sports and training.. Often horses don't begin more work until they are over 3, usually 4.. Though some breeds of dogs don't tend to go past the age of 8.. horses commonly live past 16..

I have heard a variety of views by people on other forums about dog sports and the physical health outcomes of doing certain sports. I had always believed much like every other animal and person, if you train your body slowly to handle more and more stress the body can adapt more easily to a new situation, and those who strengthen and work their body up to a certain level do not usually end up with physical problems such as arthritis or ripped tendons when they age because they allowed their body the time to repair and evolve to the stresses they were exposed to.. However it seems some people on other forums avoid doing many things like playing Frisbee with their dogs because it will cause problems when they are older.. I just cannot get my mind around this.. I agree that if you try too much too fast it can cause some serious damage (like making a 1yo dog jump over a 1m high fence for the first time and not introduce it to smaller jumps first), but surely if the correct methods are done you wouldn't have these issues arise. 1- Can frisbee be that harmful to your dogs health that it will cause arthritis and other physical issues in the dogs life? 2- if the dog has been trained over a long period of time to handle more physical situations, wouldn't that prevent physical health issues later? 3- what are the ages where you would begin introducing more physical activities, for example, how old before you start letting the job jump over obstacles, or weave through poles, jump up for bite work, do more running. 4- do you think that it is harmful for a dog to play sports like frisbee, agility etc, do you think a dog who does these sports is healthier and fitter in their old age compared to a dog who had been prevented from participating in these sports in its life time? 5- have you ever experienced a dog who had serious health issues in its later age from doing these sports? was it because they were not properly physically introduced? was it because of genetics? or was it because doing sports does in fact affect the dogs overall health when they age? I would love to know everyone elses views on this

sounds like shes using fear aggression, you don't want to be rewarding that.. give her a correction when she does it, give her a tap on the side to divert her attention and snap her out of it (tap as in, like you tap a persons shoulder for attention). This will only escalate and be more dangerous if you dont start fixing it now.. while treat luring may work, you want her to lose the aggression first before luring her to meet new pups.. But even aggression against her own littermates is not normal.. Puppies are supposed to be very social at that age, not scared and aggressive to their own family..

So this is YOUR rooster? I was wondering who owned this boy

ask her what she thinks wolves and african wild dogs eat then? berries? Dogs do infact eat raw meat and have been proven to hunt their own food in some countries and eat it, raw meat is a core part of a dogs diet, while in hard times wolves are known to eat foliage, as do dogs who when they struggle to gain the meat required resort to scavenging anything which could help sustain them. However give a dog a choice between a beef cut and an apple and you will see the dog will take the beef cut over the apple anyday as its more nutritional to them. Maybe the reason you are getting runny poos is because your switching the food too fast.. I would say your best to start with the food it was best on, then slowly adding more of the food diet you want to change to, if you change it too quickly the dogs body will react to it and cause diarrhea and softer stools. They have a less complex digestive system than ours, so a sudden change to food to a completely different diet can cause some bad side effects (i class diarrhea as a bad side effect as it can dehydrate the dog pretty quickly in a bad case). off topic for those interested about where dog food started. It was 1860 and the below documentary provides the history.

that should work... It works when I click it. Midols link is also a good one.. While yes most of the site is about shark fin soup on mine, its the only part of a shark which is really kept as the fins have alot of protein. The fins arent only used for soup, they are the main part of the body used for every other food/herb/health product out there. I would never use shark products.

I would be against feeding shark cartilage for this main reason. I would kindly like to suggest avoiding purchasing shark cartilage because it just promotes more towards the way they are killed. Currently there is no monitoring of how sharks are killed nor is there a current yearly quota on how many sharks can be killed per year (unlike whales and other fish which do have fishing quotas, as much as i dislike whale killing too). The most common way they get this cartilage is by de-finning sharks and then throwing them back into the ocean alive to drown or bleed to death. Over 8 million sharks a year are killed this way, and the more people who keep supporting this method the faster we will lose the shark population and the more screwed up the ocean will be when the main predators of the ocean are killed off. The less sharks there are the more we will see of other species like zooplankton (which includes the jellyfish species) which is alot of bad news for not just people, but also ocean life which do not eat jellyfish. http://www.sharkfriends.com/sharks/sharkfinning.html

Those are 'sport' though, not protection and not the "C" phase of the sport either. whoops my bad

wow those are some nasty falls I like this idea though http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2D4hpIxlPA it looks MUCH safer

It's not that simple, you don't just teach a dog to sit and have it magically be able to sit stay because it hasn't been released. It takes a lot of training and particularly proofing to get it happening with distance and under distraction, which is essentially teaching the stay even if you don't use a seperate command IMO. i never implied it did. my point was if you properly teach sit and proof it, theres no need to teach a stay..as that is part of the sit command is to execute it until told to stop.