OSoSwift

Yep lots of my dog things I say have a distinct equine flavour! My son even had front legs one day, until I remembered they were actually arms! Felt like a bit of a twit! A lot of my jumping training with my dogs involves cavaletti, grid like combinations and I spend lots of time teaching my dog to jump with a really good shape and how to find the right take off point for the jump, also to get them to see their sride well and be able to shorten and lengthen easily and evenly. My old dog never pulled a rail (see another horse term!) in competition, so maybe I might have been onto something! Unfortunately due to distance, her age and back we never got to really work on our speed in competition, or have enough trials.

I also fill in what used to be horse time with doing doggy stuff. Much easier to throw a gear bag in the car, add dog and drive. Bit easier than float, horse, rugs, saddles, bridles and goodness what other parafinalia just to go off to a show or competition. Oh and my dogs cost less to feed and I make their own coats, collars and things. I also cannot imagine what attempted Clydeadale cuddles on the lounge would be like.

Hope your puppy is okay. Don't beat yourself up about picking him up, even if in an ungainly fashion, sometimes we "Do" without thinking in these sorts of situations. Please make a bit effort to get him out around safe dogs to socilaise. By safe I mean fully vaccinated and dogs that will disipline a puppy, but will not bully it or attack it. He needs to be taught boundries but not learn that he needs to attack first before the other dog has a chance. I also support the idea of the owner being reported, she is obviously unable to make a commone sense decision in regard to a dog aggressive dog being under control. I would be very careful about where I took my Dobe baby until his last vaccination. I wouldn't use a dog park, but would try and take him to a Puppy pre-school, a person house with "safe" dogs etc. Maybe contact the Dobe club in your state and see if you can meet up with some of it's members for a puppy play date. Part of the reason your puppy would be safer on a lead is that if he is attacked, you still have a physical control of him. That inherantly makes him safer due to the fact you can physically control where he goes and just how far away he can get from you. Puppys of his age are quite often really good at sticking close by because they are babies and they need "pack" support. Usually at around 14 to 16 weeks they start to become a little braver and try their independence. This means that will start to explore a little further on their own, quite often ignoring your calls to return as they are starting the very beginning of their adolecent like faze of puppy hood. It is not unusual for a puppy of that age who has never gone away from it's owner to start giving the two finger salute whilst running or at least jogging in the opposite direction. They do not know how to recall, especially under distraction, as they have not yet been taught what a recall is. Good luck with your puppy and although you possibly feel a little under scrutiney, the advice is sound. Dobermanns are more prone to getting Parvo (along with a couple of other breeds) than your average run of the mill dog. I do agree socilaisation is extremely important, it just needs to be done in the safest way possible. Parvo is a horrible disease. Dobermanns - especially males- do not have a reliable recall until they are at least 18 months and have be regularly trained for it. You have an honerable and fantastic breed. Have a great time with him.

Love it!

I made mine out of webbing and reflective tape. Only have a plastic buckle though. A person who makes collars should be able to run a few up for you. Try Huga

Aww what a cutie Axel is takes me back a few years! Where abouts is he from? - you can PM me if you would prefer. I love Hot cross buns, but have only had the chocolate ones from Brubies and normal ones. As I am not that much inot sultanas I would like the spiced but not fuit ones - yum! Oh and I don't care about peel!

Hello new fellow WAers Dog looking gorgeous! Hi Jules1 - i lost my Dobe girl at 8 and a half and decided due to life and other circumstances to change breeds - Got love a DOber baby though. Hope you have fun on DOL

Anyone with half a brain wold keep a dog well away from a small child if it had bitten someone previously. Especially if it is a large breed. It is the owners responsibilty to control their dog. IT obviously wasn't muzzled, wasn't under control and had access to a small child. The child has been seriously let down in this circumsatnce by the people that are meant to protect her. I hope she recovers soon and it would be silly of me to think it will not affect her for the rest of her life, - but I hope it has as minimal an impact as possible for the poor little mite.

I got a puppy with a 2yo and a 5month old. I had already established a relationship with my breeder and had been in contact with her for around 10 months from memory. The breeder had a baby around a month older than mine so she was not quite so worried about the fact I had young children. I had a puppy pen set up so that when I couldn't watch and supervise the puppy she went in there. The kids were told from day dot, when puppy is in there (or has put herself to bed) you do not disturb. Of course they needed reminding as kids do. It also helped that my baby was extremely placid with a great sleeping routine. The baby slept through the night and the puppy woke me up! I did think that was quite funny though. Some days it was a bit full on, but over all it was great. I was worried about making sure I had the time required for a baby puppy before I commited to bring the puppy home. Having only had Dobermann and Rottweiler puppies before I was not exactly sure what a Whippet puppy would be like. I was pleasently suprised. I know that you cannot know exactly what kids will do around puppies and dogs, but with strict rules and close supervision it can be done, and done well with all parties happy. I now have two and I did get the second one as an almost 8 month old. It worked well due to the fact he had been raised in a family with young children and cats. A lot of work had been put into recalls and house manners. I knew the situation and life he had come from. I would not have taken an unknown history dog of the same age.

The other problem is every time the dog succeeds in catching and killing a small pet they are rewarded highly for their efforts, not to mention the rewarding that happens from the endorphin release in the brain. Also every time the dog kills something it gets better at it. I would, as others have suggested, get no more small animals or devise a way of keeping them very seperate. I have Whippets, I expect that they will kill and chase small furries. I do have Guinea Pigs and they do not harrass them, but they are only near them when I am outside and any interest in the Piggies or the house they get growled at. I would not feel comfortable leaving them all together in a back yard while I was at work all day or similar. The only once a house blew over and piggies were running everywhere I did actually manage to call them off, but I teach a "leave it" command from day dot and highly re-inforce it.

Had the kids and dog down "the hole" today - The Hole is in the front paddock and is piles of sand around 5 to 6 feet high that have been dug up. Somehow Rommi misplaced her I-Squeak so there was only one. Lewis was not going to give up his at any cost. He even growled and guarded it so Rommi couldn't have it. He has never growled at her and normally any toy she wants to take, she just does and he give it up without much fuss. There was no way he was giving it up, so we had Lewis followed by Rommi in fast pursuit. When he just had to stop for a breather he laid on it then would pick it up and bolt again. Both dogs are now passed out and to avoid any tying up, I went and located Rommi's I Squeak. Lewis is double-overhead addicted!!! Rommi is addicted!

Is Roxy already clicker trained? DO you use the same clicker for both? If she is not already clicker trained then the noise will not mean much to her as it has not been coupled with a secondery reinforcer yet.

See I told my husband I wasn't high maintence - might have to show him this so he realises just how lucky he is!

Haven't heard of it, but love reading so will wander off and google it!

Mine are crated and toileted on a lead for 10 days. They always heal beautifully with no redness and very minimal swelling. I would crate and lead walk, better than a return trip for a herniation.

Oh of other dogs I have known, 2X Dobermanns - first bitch had surgery and surb=vived had a GAstroplexy. second dog - didn't have surgery and survived. 1X Am Pit Bull - Didn't have surgery owners opted for conservative treatment ( deflating stomach via needle and medication) ??? and dog got euthed. And my Brothers dog A Hunterway X Border Collie - very deep chested bitch. The vet hosp did do surgery after stuffing around and deflating via needle into the stomach for 2 days. She lost her spleen and didn't have a Gastroplexy. She was fed dry and scraps. Not sure ewhat she was doing when it happened. She is still going at 12 years old. Bloat = dog in car and bolt at my house!

I agree with the other posts, feed to body condition not what a book or someone else says ia the desired weight range - they are usually averages anyway. I also think - have you ever seen a fat athlete??? No they are lean and muscly with little or no fat. Yours dogs are athlete and poodles should be very athletic. Therefore they should be lean mean running machines, not toast racks as mentioned, but lean with good muscle.

Both my Whippets fetch. Lewis will bring you stuff to get you to throw it all the time. Rommi will to a point but tends to wait until you initiate the game. Lewis would fetch until he dropped from exhaustion, Rommi would go off and lie down once fairly puffed. Lewis always delivers to the hand, Rommi sometimes. I was told that Whippets are not retrievers, but both mine really enjoy it. Lewis is definately in a very high prey drive. Rommi is in prey drive but not quite so full on. I am not sure what makes a fetch dog, but I would say more your retrievers and working dogs, and some sighthounds - although they quite often don't do the bring back part.

With Dogs West I know that to be registered as an associate dog they have to be desexed, not sure about the rest of Oz, but imagine it would be similar. Ah both my dogs are registered as am I, so that would be okay.

I do have some seperation anxiety issues that are getting better. The main reason that as a youngster the dog was not taught that it is okay to be by yourself. In the beginning just to be put in the dog run to train the other dog who was 2 metres away resulted in a screaming dog who was trying to tear down chain mesh. Now the dog can deal with that with some whingin, but I don't think would be up to say being put in the dog run and the other dog taken away in the car to the vets or something. I am still working on it as when I am at dog training said dog whinges, barks and screams while I am trying to work the other dog. It has improved but still on going at this stage. It is a pain in the bum as I have to think about consequences if the other dog is sick and needs to go to the vet for any length of time. There is also a lesser degree of seperation anxiety from me - but no where near to the level as from other dogs. If I am around but the other dog gone all is fine. There is be some whinging/pacing if the dogs are left inside with the rest of the family and I have to leave or be away for any period of time. We have come a long way but as I say still working on it

I would not desex my dog that early and whilst I know I should register I wouldn't if that was the ruling - or I would register at an address outside my shire and say she was visiting. I think enforcing that for the general population has some merit, however I do not see that I should have to do it as a responsible dog owner. What exemptions to that ruling can you get? ie for show dogs etc?

What breed? - Dobermann How old was the dog? 7 with the first episode Was there a familial component? Not that I am aware of What was the dog being fed? Need some detail of what exactly - if dry food, which one, if raw, what it was A mixture of dry and meat/rice How often was he fed? Once daily or more? Once daily when The first episode happened twice daily after that. Was his bowl elevated, or on the ground? On the ground initially, raised after first episode What was he doing when he bloated? (ie, at a show, at home, playing, at home alone) Crated and had been so since 10.30 the evening before. She woke me at 5am howling, looked normal was very bloated withing 10 minutes Has he bloated more than once? Yes three times. Second time was over indulgence of raw meat and pasta Third time broke into and ate dry Lupins Has he had a gastrowhatsit? LOL (too lazy to look it up, but you'll know ) Yes she did after the the first occasion - GDV Did he ever bloat after that?[/b] Bloated but not tortioned Did the dog also suffer GDV Yes the first time Did it have surgery? Yes 3 times What was done to relieve the bloat? 1st time - Initially passed a tube to decompress, the opened up and returned stomach and spleen to normal position and gastroplexy 2nd time, not sure was at breeders, but opened up and food removed. 3rd time - opened up and Lupins were removed from the stomach Any more info required just ask. My second Dobe never had it happen. Be it good luck or good management I am not sure :D

I-Squeaks sound funny when the squeaker hole is sitting against their tounge and they squeak, then you hear saliva being sucked into them as they un squish themselves. Lewis is the king at that - thinks he is oh so funny. Rommi is just on a mission to wear the squeaker out!

I have a clicker per dog, but usually one is locked up while the other is working, or one is tethered on their bed while the other is working. So it probably wouldn't matter. I also have a seperate clicker for my horse. I guess you are wondering if you can use the clicker in the same manner out and about. I use one click = treat, so it is conditioned that click will get a treat. When you are out and about he may be more distracted so you may need to go in baby steps so you still have a high dgrees of his succeeding and therefore getting the reward. If you are training him, ignore the other dogs. I do find it hard to train both as in they are both trained by me and are both trying to get the reward. This is why I train sperately. Basically if you see something you like click and treat. Doesn't matter where it is. The higher the reward history for a behaviour the more likely they are to repeat it. Not sure if I have helped in any way, but I am sure you will love the work you can get with a clicker.

No worries Erny - they have never even heard of titre tests and all vaccinate yearly. I just keeping trying to educate - I do get there eventually, just sometimes takes a while. Dog training is my sanity time, so I will endeavour to educate as well.