jr_inoz

thanks all.

We are doing our walks and exercising as per normal.

I had read that she shouldn't be jumping off high things (like the bed) later in her pregnancy. Just wanting to make sure. She reabsorbed a litter late last year/early this year with no explanation (no evidence of injury, infection etc) so being a little more cautious this time around.

My bitch may be in whelp (two and a half weeks from mating).

At the moment, softy that I am, she sleeps at the foot of my bed.

She will jump off the bed in the middle of the night to go and toilet. At what point do I stop her from sleeping on the bed to stop her from jumping off the bed?

If you go the fine-link check chain - make sure you get one that is 'jewellers linked' chain - it is better quality and won't catch on your dog's fur. You will find them at good pet stores - but if you are having trouble, then go to one of the dog shows in your area - there will be a show van there that will have them.

My obedience club asks for check chains for obedience, my friend's club won't allow them. So like others have said - difference of opinions out there.

What breed are you getting? That might impact on what you buy.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The carpet isn't actually visually stained, as I had already used our Vax to shampoo and do several water only rinses, so the carpet looks clean, but the odour is still there as it 'trapped' in the underlay like the carpet cleaner guy suggested. The cat had managed to go many times before we realised as it was under a table and it wasn't until it started to smell that we discovered the carpet was quite saturated.

I like the sound of the Urine off product. I had originally seen one called Urine Free, which makes the same claim that it actually breaks down the uric acid crystals and therefore removes the problem, not just adding perfume over it.

The home based recipe sounds worth a try too, especially for any new ones that will inevitably happen in our house! In fact within 24 hours of having our carpets cleaned we had a blood nose, dog wee, kitten wee, baby vomit and then the next day cat vomit, all on our 'clean' carpet, and these new stains haven't come out, so I think I might make up a spray bottle of that for these newer stains.

I will go and search for a good price for the Urine-off product and will report back once I have used it to see if it works.

Be careful with some of the stains - blood can be easily 'set' with the wrong cleaner.

Having said that - the glicerin, eucalyptus oil trick in the steam cleaner with half the amount of carpet cleaner works really well (another shannon lush recipe) for the pet stains.

I have also found, viva paper towel folded up so that it is four layers thick, put on the spot of wee, then step on it, soaks up pretty much all of the wee (do it twice). Still works a couple of hours after the accident has happened.

...and John Rowles' show ...

THank you very much....

If you get a chance - can you tell us how many shelties were entered?

You know we need to see pics...

....

Have you tried taking swabs daily when she comes into season to check for cornified cells?

According to two repo vets here in adelaide, it is more accurate than progesterone testing - and the method used when doing AI with frozen semen as it is the most accurate. (they will often use both lots of testing - progesterone, then checking for cornified cells to make certain)

You will need a good powered microscope (the ones high schools have are good enough), slides, swabs and the three liquids to fix and stain the slides.

My Vet set me up with this, this time around as my girl reluctantly stands for a dog, even when she has all the outward signs of being ready. We also wanted to take swabs each day after the mating and check the cells to see which day she went into diestrus. I've found it all really interesting. Was fun having my own little "lab" set up at home, taking swabs each day and peering down a microscope.

I know a few people who have had swabs done and told, according to the cells it's to late you have missed her - Prog test said other wise ;)

Blood very rarely lies.

Cells can be read wrong, displaying different due to infection etc.

Interesting.

My understanding is that when the cells are first cornified, it is a good time to mate - as ovulation occurs 6 days after the cells are cornified. So mate at the first sign of cornified cells and then again two to three days later and you are unlikely to miss ovulation. My understanding is also that when the cells change back to regular shaped cells, - generally 5 days after ovulation - then the bitch has moved into diestrus and that fertilization took place 3 days prior. This way, if your mating was within 6 or 7 days of fertilization, the success rate should be ok.

I think using a combination of both progesterone testing and taking swabs is a good combination.

jr, the microscope sound like a great idea, just checked them online starting price is around $80.00, just have to check out what magnification I would require.

the microscope I used had a 40x objective lens (the one on the rotating nosepiece part) and a 10x eyepiece lens, so a total magnification of 400x. This was a good magnification for me with my failing eyesight. I wouldn't recommend smaller magnification. I suspect I would be able to see sperm with this microscope if needed.

I found that a microscope with its own light source was best for me too.

Have you tried taking swabs daily when she comes into season to check for cornified cells?

According to two repo vets here in adelaide, it is more accurate than progesterone testing - and the method used when doing AI with frozen semen as it is the most accurate. (they will often use both lots of testing - progesterone, then checking for cornified cells to make certain)

You will need a good powered microscope (the ones high schools have are good enough), slides, swabs and the three liquids to fix and stain the slides.

My Vet set me up with this, this time around as my girl reluctantly stands for a dog, even when she has all the outward signs of being ready. We also wanted to take swabs each day after the mating and check the cells to see which day she went into diestrus. I've found it all really interesting. Was fun having my own little "lab" set up at home, taking swabs each day and peering down a microscope.

my dog was prescribed it short term for very bad allergies.

Was told (by two different vets) to not keep her on it long term as it can cause kidney problems with long term use.

Guess it depends on what is more important. Tough decision to make

Have the same grumble..... same breed too funnily enough....

Adelaide, Marion Shopping Centre - so we all know the store...

Choc Labrador Puppies for sale - two lots - slightly different sizes, so I assume different ages, Advertised as pure bred.

grrrr...

Told people who were going 'ooo ahh' that the dogs wouldn't come with papers or be health checked and to buy from a registered breeder.

byb somewhere with too many puppies? All their bitches came into season at once?

If it helps with your planning,

My application for a prefix took 10 working days. Couldn't believe how fast it was. I am in SA. (But know it is a national thing). This was in early May.

Those with no bottoms, how do you go with a heating pad in the box etc?

Have talked to one of my breeder friends in the adelaide hills.

The Vet at Stirling has a good reputation. (The one on Avenue Road)

I used to go to the Hills vet clinic which is in Blackwood. I thought it was absolutely fantastic and had it been closer would still continue to go there.

I actually used to travel from the city to go to that vet.

edited.... thinking of the vet a bit further up the road....

Thanks for the recommendations guys.

Just back,

Very impressed at this point.

Very very helpful

I have a question I would love answered as it was presented to me yesterday.

We are puppy inquiring at the moment and my dream breed was available in my local area and there is only one pup available being a male and ONLY available on breeders terms/Co-ownership as the father had passed and they are retaining the other male and want this boy as a backup just in case.

I was offered their 'pet price' of $2,300 however it is breeders terms and co-ownership and we have to sign a contract and the dog must stay intact and we must pay for all the health testing needing to ensure the dog is healthy if they choose to breed with him.

We are happy to do breeders terms & co-ownership however we felt it was a little unfair to be governed by them only to be sold the pup at their FULL pet price yet we have to stick to their very strict rules. I would think if you are offering this you would offer the pup at a reduced price as you are still getting the benefits from the dog yet the other pet puppies are being sold at the same price and they can choose the dogs path.

If you offer a puppy on breeders terms/co-ownership do you still charge FULL pet price or do you offer it at an agreed pet price?

Sounds like "wanting their cake and eating it too" kind of arrangement.

I co-owned a bitch with her breeder and was very happy with the arrangement. The dog lived with me, I paid for her normal upkeep (food, vet bills etc) we shared the costs associated with her breeding (health checks, vet bills with breeding) etc. We would also share the money from the sale of any puppies. She came to me for free.

I knew the breeder though.

Plus side for me? A lovely, show quality bitch that did not cost me anything to buy.

Plus for the breeder? Keeping options open on a bitch they couldn't keep in their kennels.

I wouldn't touch the above arrangement with a 10 foot pole. Sounds like a very selfish breeder.

If you offer a puppy on breeders terms/co-ownership do you still charge FULL pet price or do you offer it at an agreed pet price?

I have only done it once but yes I did charge full pet price but I would have paid for the health testing and they would have been paid a stud fee. Reduced if it was over my own dogs but full prcie for any others.

Thank you Cowanbree. This we would have been fine with however we were responsible for all health testing and their was no stud fee for us at all and if we were to allow the dog to be breed with another pure breed dog then they requested the full stud fee from this. Not that we would ever offer a dog on stud because it is of zero interest to us.

Except sometimes colours affect health. Merle x merle for example. Though strange that harlequin x harlequin can be on mains but not merle.

The MDBA registry is not as hard on colour for main register in some breeds - white boxers for example can be on the main register - however they can only be bred with a plain boxer - which means 100% of puppies will be flashy.

They cannot be bred to a white or flashy boxer therefore ensuring that no white boxers will come of the mating. Flashy to flashy which is how you get white boxers in the first place is not recommended but not prohibited.

Was going to say this. Merle x merle in my breed not allowed. Dogs can be born blind or deaf or both - and very very high chance of this happening.

Merle x merle Australian Shepherds can be registered on main. In fact I have one here....main registered (neutered) bitch from a blue merle to blue merle mating.

Gayle - are their the same health issues with merle x merle matings as there are in other breeds? Causing hearing and sight problems?

There is a vet that works through Marion Small Animal Hospital and Southern that has an interest in repro - Dion Humbler (I think that is his last name). He assisted with Jazz and we got 9 puppies... I did get all the progesterone tests done out at Noahs Crossing though and went on Chris's recommendation of when to mate. Dion shows and breeds as well.

Thanks Piper - he is the Vet I had one recommendation from. Actually have a consultation with him on Saturday.

I haven't - but others would know better.

Maybe stop by the sheltie thread in breed subforums - more frequently visited than this thread.

I find that good line brushing with a pin brush gets a lot of undercoat out when they are shedding.

Does anyone know the name of a good vet who specialises in reproduction in the southern suburbs of Adelaide?

I know the two excellent Vets north of Adelaide - but too far away in case of emergency surgery etc.

My mentor's vet is very good, but just a little bit too far away in case of emergency.

I would say that if the gazebo wasn't secured then they would be liable.

I agree.

Think the club and the grounds at which the show is held will also have some responsibility.

June canine journal in SA has an ad telling people to secure their gazebos properly. I think they may be getting a tad frustrated.

Trouble these days, there are no accidents anymore, it is all a case of where there's blame there's a claim. What happened to the phrase sh!t happens?

When said shit happens because someone is an idiot, and hasn't done the right thing (Like the person I know who left their gazebo up with no ropes with forecast gale force winds) then it isn't an accident - it is negligence. And claim away I reckon.

I buy Valuheart, which is the generic equivalent of Heartgard, only you save more than half of the cost. As for fleas, I use Advantix but it doesn't seem to be working anymore so I'll have to change soon.

is there ivermectin in either of these products?

I have to be careful - I have a breed that can be sensitive.

Currently use Revolution here. Recommended as best for my breed and for a bitch I will be mating in a month or so. Not that cheap though.

Oh my sorry about the spelling, i need a new keyboard I try to proof read first but was in a hurry

As for the prefix, Is it really better to obtain it first?. Kynan Your raise a point of view I hadn't really thought about in that way.

I guess I believed by not getting it I was showing I wasn't trying to rush things.......

I really Appreciate the constrictive criticism, and support in what I'm trying to achieve. And i Have more often or not rang rather then email as tone and enthusiasm is lost and I have a chance to explain and define what I mean before they have concluded their opinions, most of the time at least.

I think too, that getting a prefix will help you. Are you a member of the Canine Association in Queensland? (Dogs Queensland)? That will help too. Breeders will be happier if you know that you are a registered breeder and so will (hopefully) abide by the code of ethics.

When you visit the show you are going to, make sure you see if you can buy the catalogue for the show - that way you can see the breeding of the dogs and bitches you like the look of.

I understand where you are coming from, but I can see breeder's points of view too.

Hang in there and keep asking questions.

I use a Victoria Station soft "beauty case". Has two big compartments - one side has lots of pockets - fits my brushes, scissors etc and the other side fits all the grooming bottles and crap I use. (Double coated breed). Has another handy front pocket that I put my number holder, bait bag, entry envelope etc in.

Has a long detachable strap. Love it.