macka

Is this what you mean? Found here: http://deepsouthhogdogsupply.com/id33.html You could also use vests if it is just for visbility? ETA: they seem to come up more if you search for pig hunting dog collars Reflective Neck Collars Another Bright Orange Collar

I can't really think of a breed that wouldn't prefer to be inside with their family. I know many people can and do keep dogs outside successfully but I always feel the same people could have just as happily had their dogs inside had they taken the time to train them to follow their house rules. It is relatively easy to train a dog to stay confined to a bed/mat when inside if that is your preference, and would give you a lot more bonding time together - even having the dog sitting quietly at your feet while watching TV is valuable bonding time and will keep your dog much happier as he/she will feel secure in their pack. Having an outside-only dog only makes life harder for you as you have to commit to spending quality time with your dog outside, rain, hail or shine, even in the middle of winter when you'd all really much rather be indoors.

however , maybe not for a puppy Maybe not but then again, I think it's better to nip the problem in the bud early rather than let barking develop into a habit over time. But a behaviourist should be able to offer the best solution for a puppy.

Boo Boo Bear there are a few different ways to combat barking... anti-bark units, bark collars, etc But I think it's best you get a behaviourist to evaluate the cause of the barking and then determine the best method to combat it.

I think the main points Brooke would have objected to were *the accusation that she had rehomed some of her animals before *the insinuation that she only fosters children for the money ( ) *the comments that implied Brooke is a bad person for putting foster children before her dog *the comments that suggested Brook had brought the situation upon herself and the dog by bringing a number of foster animals into their home *the accusation that she wants to rehome her GSD so she can get another more protective breed *the accusation that she has been deliberately ramping up the dog's defence drives and thereby caused the aggression problem herself Maybe Brooke has made some mistakes along the way as I'm sure we all have done with our dogs at some stage, but there is giving your opinion and then there is just plain mean. There was some pretty mean spirited stuff in there IMO. Is that the sort of thing you can moderate against though? Probably not.

Kirislin that site is very funny. Kind of reminds me of this cartoon: http://blogs.technet.com/photos/gray_knowl...9/original.aspx You can't stop people from being mean, ignorant, aggressive, personal, idiotic, etc. All you can do is pick your battles. And if someone really oversteps the line, hit the report button and hope for the best.

Fair enough. I'm coming from a puppy buyer perspective as I am not a breeder and don't know much about breeding/sire & dam combinations. As a layman puppy buyer of course you can't know what sire & dam combinations are ideal, you just have to trust your breeder's knowledge and expertise in that area. But can't you infer when looking at a 5-generation pedigree of both sire and dam made up entirely of low scores that offspring have a good chance of low scores? Of course nothing is ever certain, but that's all you have to go on.

Lilli I wasn't saying hip scores are the be all and end all - just that there are so many Labradors being bred as they are such a popular breed, if the OP looks around and is prepared to wait for a pup from the right breeder, I am very confident he will be able to find nice dogs with good temperament, structure, type AND better hip scores, so why settle for less? OP also don't forget to ask if the parents have been cleared for PRA - that should be tested for in labs as well.

I just paid $380pp for my sigma 50/1.4 second hand (barely used, as new) which I consider to be a bargain. The canon 50/1.8 or "nifty 50" gives you good bang for your buck - as Shell mentioned you can pick one up for around $120. I'm not a fan of the canon 50/1.4 -I don't think it's as nice as the sigma. The canon 50 1.2 is gorgeous but will set you back about $1200.

Hi Alfie The way I see it is... there are 55 Labrador puppy listings on DOL from around Australia at the moment, if you don't have to take a pup from a sire with high hip scores, why would you? Stolzseinrotts is right, there is a risk even when both parents have low scores, which is why I would recommend researching the pedigree of both the Dam and Sire going back several generations. Good luck

Thanks Shell

Woohoo my new sigma 50/1.4 arrived today ;)

What persephone said - you will end up all twisted. Unless you are living in a really sandy place rinsing the lead clip out after use gets rid of the sand.

Hi Lab Called Marli, For general discussion you ought to post your question in the "Those crazy Labradors" thread in the breed subforums here: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...amp;start=18030 This thread is more for education about the labrador breed.

Sorry Brooke, this is a dog forum and talking about PTS to engage in other activities regardless of what they may be IMO is a disgrace when you have the choice. You asked for an opinion and this is mine. Re-home your dog if you must, but PTS , I can't wear that Rehome to where Longcoat? Are you offering? How many perfectly nice dogs with no agression issues whatsoever are PTS every day? It is hard enough to find homes for them let alone a dog with a history of agression towards people. And how would you feel if you rehomed a dog you knew was people agressive, only to hear that that dog went on to bite/attack someone quite badly? I don't see how this dog can be rehomed unless it is going to someone who is a very experienced trainer/handler and who is prepared to work on the dog's aggression issues. Even then Brooke has to decide if that's what she wants to do knowing that sometimes "rehomed" dogs end up in all sorts of bad situations. Brooke I am very sorry to hear about your situation, must be awful for you, I can't imagine it. Sounds like you've had a lot of PMs and now you've spoken to the breeder as well - I hope some sort of resolution comes from that.

Hip and elbow scores, PRA and sometimes EIC are the main tests for Labs - have not heard of a lab breeder doing a heart test. For what it's worth, my lab breeder feeds Advance Puppy Growth Large Breed and a little bit of mince. I'd go with a good quality kibble or a well-researched raw diet - comes down to personal choice.

Mrs TS aren't you glad you started this thread! PMSL at "bunny gravy" - now there is a term you don't hear very often!

Wow - that doesn't look like the same dog! Out of interest was he de-sexed and at what age?

Don't a lot of folk give their pups their first vaccs at 6 weeks? No........proven fact that they do not work in all pups under 8 weeks. I was talking about breeder practice, not vaccine efficacy Oakway. Jean Dodds, noting that most pups are rehomed at 8 weeks, recommends first vaccs at 7 weeks. Not ideal but does offer some protection in those early days. The really unethical breeders don't vaccinate at all. Yes I was one of the breeders that vaccinated at 6 weeks weeks till I realised the puppies I let go where not realy vaccinated at all. So you're saying you used to be an unethical breeder? There's a difference between unethical and uneducated, and I don't think you can really even blame breeders for being the latter, given that so many vets still seem to recommend first vaccs at between 6-8 weeks.

I think you'll find that plenty of "ethical breeders" vaccinate at six weeks. Nicolatu - I have nothing to add on the overbite just that you should discuss all of your concerns with the breeder openly and if you feel uncomfortable with their response I would leave it and find another breeder.

I think I saw on Burkes Backyard once that the Maltese is also Australia's most dumped dog.

At my puppy school we had my lab, another lab (guide dog training), mini foxie, border collie, a very nervous kelpie, golden retriever, and some little mini foxie type cross, no idea what he was.

Minimum focusing distance for that lens is 0.45 m/1.48 ft - you will need to be that far away from the object to focus.

Yes, also, what ruthless said. You may be within the minimum focusing distance for that lens. Try walking backwards until you can get the object in focus.

Have you accidentally put it on manual focus? Should be a little switch on the front near the lens: