Greytmate

This is what I was thinking. Something is very wrong when their behaviour starts to change like that. If you get no improvement within a few days and you decide to put her to sleep, you will know that she had a happy life right up until the end.

One thing that I have always found a bit annoying is the accidental layout of most shows. There are usually no clearly defined public and non-public areas. The benching arrangements have evolved over many years, and at outdoor shows the layout is usually to benefit the society and the competitors, with little thought to public access. This is why we have these problems and this is why we have this thread. If things were laid out a bit better,with appropriate modern signage, the public would know what they could and could not go, they would understand in advance what they could and what they could not touch. And everyone would be so much happier and more satisfied. -the public, competitors and most importantly, the dogs.

Large ag shows will have displays from dog food companies and other groups with dogs or pups, the dogs being exhibited are not the only dogs there. There are always dog at large shows that you can meet and pat. Imagine going through the craft pavilion, and trying to touch all the soft fluffy garments exhibits there. Or wanting to taste the cakes in the cake pavilion. Appealing, but not allowed. The public should be aware that until judging is completed, they should keep their grubby mitts off the entries. The exhibitors should be aware that they can ask a person to come back after judging and touch the dog then , or they could point the public in the direction of other dogs that have already been judged or who are there as part of a display instead of as show exhibits. Just saying "no" is mean and doesn't help the public understand anything. I think sometimes the public has an unreal expectation of how they should engage with animals at a show. You can go to the amusement section and pay for a pony ride if you want or visit the baby animal nursery and see what they let you touch in there. But show exhibits are there for a serious purpose, and that needs to be respected.

Fantastic news that she is doing so well. I'm so glad this surgery was available for her.

Good luck, and please let us know how she goes.

Don't have the dog inside unless you are actively watching him. If he sniffs something and takes the side step ready to lift his leg, give a short verbal correction. If that is ignored, next time give the verbal correction in a deeper voice and stamp on the floor (if it is timber) or give him a shove on the rump to push him off his 3-legged balance. This should jolt the dog into remembering his manners. The key to this working is to not let the dog out of your sight or reach for a second while it is inside. You have to catch him in the act of moving into the leg lifting position.. It will take a few days of constant work. If you get slack and miss it, the habit becomes more ingrained and it will take longer to fix. Do not ever punish your dog, afterwards is too late. The object is to correct the dog while in the act. The correction should not be too harsh, so that depends on your dog. If it is a nervy dog, you don't want to terrify it. The dog is probably a bit put out that there is a new animal in the house, and is marking as a way to establish territory. The behaviour may or may not decrease after desexing, but the urine will be a whole lot less smelly. Which will be less ruinous to your evening. If your evening is ruined from now on it is because you were not watching the dog and didn't correct it early enough. If that happens, punish yourself with a rolled up newspaper. Use an enzyme detergent like Biozet, or use white vinegar to clean up your furniture, as these products remove urine odour so the dog is less likely to mark there again.

That's good, but it would have been nice to hear what all the avenues are. The Bunnings around here have very long waiting lists or ballots to have a BBQ. Hopefully it is easier to organise one where you are. You cannot blame people for being suspicious given some of the activities that have been spoken about in this forum lately. Just asking for money to help pay for a dog's operation is not much different from begging. Seeing as you are adopting the dog, have you thought about organising a raffle or chocolate drive or something like that to help pay for the surgery?

This injury will inevitably lead to arthritis in later years. It should not be left as it is. I agree that amputation would be an option based on what I think of the x-ray. But I am not a vet.

Jess is involved in greyhound rescue, although I don't know any more about her than that. I don't think this is a scam as such, but would like to see more rescuers in general use effective and transparent fundraising methods rather than just begging. I would also be interested in hearing a bit more about Jess's rescue process than a vague promise to 'find a home'.

Why not organise some type of fundraiser event? (check your state legislation for the rules) Maybe organise a garage sale or something like that? Show the people that you are asking for money that you are really committed to this. What have you done so far to raise funds besides just asking people for money? Has the dog been assessed to show it has a suitable temperament for rehoming? That is a lot of money to expect people to just hand over, and you could be waiting quite a while. This operations sounds very risky and there is no guarantee of success. Good luck.

If the hole cannot be completely closed she will have to be on a special diet. No mince or kibble, just big cubes of steak. I guess that is inconvenient.

We had an older dog foster greyhound with a similar problem a few years ago, but not as severe. He had a hole in his upper palate due to an incorrect bite. Food particles getting up there into the hole was causing a problem with bad breath and infection. I would describe that as a major problem, and we considered PTS. He was treated at Anvet Kedron, and it was successful. From what I have heard he is still doing well today, although he is pretty ancient now. Good luck with your girl. I think this might be a lot bigger surgery than our dog had, but I don't think you have any choice. If she seems healthy then hopefully she will go through the surgery with no problems.

There is also a lot of people that mean well, but just don't have what it takes to properly run a rescue in a way that protects dogs and volunteers. Skills required to run a rescue org include admin and thorough documentation, the ability to keep updated and follow local laws, tax laws, welfare laws, dog control laws etc., the ability to deal with volunteers appropriately, a knowledge of dog first aid, parasite control and disease control, a knowledge of dog training and behaviour, the ability to publicise dogs and engage with the public, and very importantly, access to qualified professionals for advice on all of the above. Yet so many people become involved in running rescue and do not know their limits. Donating these people money isn't going to help dogs, because they may not be using the money effectively. If you are new to rescue and want to help and learn, the best way to do this is to become a sponsor or volunteer of a rescue organisation that you find to be very responsible. One that is happy to answer questions about their process. Too many people are tempted to do things their own way without any understanding of why all of the above listed things are so important, and when questioned become defensive or dismissive. Getting a dog out of a pound is only one small part of rescue, and we should applaud the groups that put just as much effort into other aspects that ensure that dogs are not just out of pounds, but that they will go on to live a happy and satisfied life with the right new owner. Thanks for bringing up this topic in public Kendra and continuing to help rescue rather than walking away in disappointment.

Yes, the dog does sound insecure. But biting and growling is aggression. There should be no confusion about this. Just because there may be a reason for the behaviour does not mean that the behaviour isn't aggression. When people start denying that the behaviour is aggression, and start using terms like protective or insecurity to describe the behaviour, perhaps they are not understanding what the real problem is. There are plenty of insecure and protective dogs that would never show any aggressive behaviour towards their owner. But this dog is being aggressive. It has bitten. If a dog bites somebody seriously, owners now risk being charged with a criminal offence in some jurisdictions. Any aggression needs to be taken very seriously and not relabelled to make it more acceptable.

If you look at lists of dogs that need rescue, it can be overwhelming. There are a lot more dogs than there are people with the ability to rescue, rehabilitate and rehome them ethically. So, avoid looking at the lists. Instead find out who the ethical rescue groups are, and donate directly to them. (or volunteer for them) Ethical groups assess dogs carefully before they decide if they can be rescued, and so the funds you give them will be very well used. There will be no super-urgency, you can just donate however much you want to, when you are ready to. They don't post pictures of dogs that they are not already responsible for. They don't hassle volunteers or donors. But they need help to continue their rehabilitation and rehoming programs. Just getting a dog out of the pound in the first place is not something that requires outside fundraising, so do not donate to people who are only involved in this aspect of rescue. The danger of sending money to groups that advertise dogs that are in the pound is that you are giving money to a person who may not spend it on that dog, and who may not have a clue how to find a home for it. Getting a dog out of the pound does not mean it gets a home, as some of the people fundraising this way just send the dog to somebody else to find it a home, after they have got the cash. That doesn't help the dog, it just takes the problem from the pound to an unsuspecting person's lounge room. There have been some horror stories from people who have ended up hurt by groups that do this. It would be good if rescue was regulated by an authority, but it isn't. Be warned, there are people out there who will ask for your money who are not set up to look after that dog's welfare. They should not be asking for money. The only thing we can do to make sure we are helping the right people is by asking questions. How many dogs has their organisation they placed in homes? What assessment do they do before placing the dog in foster care or a new home? How long is the dog quarantined for? Do they take back any dog they place if it turns out to have problems for the new owner? What is the structure of the organisation and who does the organisations auditing? If a person does not have a very detailed explanation as to how they do these things, they should not be rescuing dogs, and should not be asking for money for whatever it is that they say they will do. Ethical rescuers will be happy to explain their answers so that people know they are doing the right thing by the dogs. Run away from anyone that doesn't want to provide answers.

It already is a problem, and there may be nothing she can do to fix it. The parents of this pup may be very aggressive too. Ten week old pups do not usually act that aggressively. It's alarming. She needs to pay to see a qualified behaviourist, not just a dog trainer. In the mean time, if she adopts training methods like NILIF, the dog might start respecting her. If she keeps using distracting methods she risks getting bitten more. If the dog is inherently aggressive, it might be better to have the dog put to sleep, as she will be totally responsible (and now maybe subject to criminal charges) if the dog bites anyone. You buy from a pet shop you risk buying a pup from really nasty parents, and you also risk buying a pup that has lived in a small cage and learned to fight for its food. Dog's don't normally unlearn aggression, but people learn to keep it in a way so it doesn't get the opportunity to show aggression. That is the best she can hope for. If she won't dramatically change the way she treats the dog, it will continue to bite her. Your suggestion to hit the dog gently on the muzzle could result in the dog becoming much more aggressive and the owner being bitten more. Also, a dog's muzzle is very sensitive, so it would be painful for the dog. Really not a good thing to do at all, but especially with an aggressive dog. This dog urgently needs help from somebody very experienced in dog aggression. Or it should be put to sleep before it is old enough to seriously injure somebody.

Don't take a dog like this to an off-lead area. The dog clearly doesn't enjoy it.

How would they enforce that? I don't think they could. Giving breeders the option of selling pet quality puppies on limited is better than some of the alternatives for breeders that produce some pups that are not quite up to breeding standard.

It's school holiday time and we must be nice to everyone who is out playing on the internet, yes?

Ok, thanks for clearing that up. When you said that "Its unfortunate that most behavioural problems are a direct result of poor human handling, and not a personality defect in the dog, as many would have us believe.", I assumed you meant that the cause of the aggression was all environmental and not genetic or inherent in that particular dog. I don't agree with that as many dogs display behaviour other than aggression when stressed. The genetics of the dog is what will make a dog more prone to aggression or anxiety or timidity, and environment won't necessarily make any difference to the way the dog will cope with that environment. But it can make a difference to whether a dog has to use many coping mechanisms at all. This is exactly the type of activity that rescues selling to the public should not be involved in. People that are serious and responsible about about security will only use sound dogs, usually of known bloodlines. Those that would be attracted to own an anti-social staffy or cattle dog for 'security' might not be the type of person that understands normal dog behaviour or the responsibilities inherent in owning an aggressive dog. I think a rescue would be crazy to get involved in this market unless a qualified behaviourists is assessing the dogs and giving their approval for placement. I don't think an unqualified rescue person would do very well if one of these dogs bit somebody and they were taken to court over it. Or do you get professional advice before you place these dogs in the community? I think that blaming people for a dog's faults is always the easy option. It is much easier to believe that this affectionate animal was treated badly by a bad person, than it is to accept that the dog may be homeless because it is not a safe dog to have around. Because that leads to hard decisions having to be made. And an acknowledgement that effort and care doesn't cure all problems. You must come across some terrible people and some badly bred and badly neglected dogs. Rescue only works with what has already been bred. If you have issues with breeders and how they select breeding stock, maybe it is a discussion for General instead of here. My own thoughts are that there are some fantastic breeders around who are trying to select (their version of ) ideal temperament. And this results in valued dogs that are not so often seen in rescue.

Their place is not the marketplace. Unfortunately some dogs are aggressive and many people have aggressive dogs that they love anyway. But to put a dog that has shown this level of aggression up for sale is just wrong. Especially since there are so many non-aggressive dogs looking for homes. It is a tragedy, but aggression in dogs is not something that can be 'fixed', it can only be managed, and there is a massive risk that a new owner might take on a dog like this and try but fail to stop the aggression. Ethical rescue groups do not rehome dogs that have shown this level of aggression. Community standards expect that dogs being sold as pets will not be aggressive. Edited to ask questions - What understanding do you think is necessary to solve aggression problems in dogs? Why do you believe that aggression is purely a result of environment rather than having any type of genetic basis? Do you have any experience in solving aggression problems and re homing those dogs? I am asking because I don't agree with your opinion based on my own experience with rehoming dogs.

People do it because other people do it, and because in some breeds a dog would be disadvantaged by having it's coat messed up from underneath. And as long as there are people that tell them that it's ok to lift a dog that way, there will be people that think it's ok to do. Peer pressure works in negative ways as well as positive. Dogs are prone to all of the usual spinal injuries and conditions that humans and other animals are. There is nothing I can find to suggest that their spines can take stresses like this. The type of injury that might result might be back pain that isn't going to be immediately obvious to its owner. A dog that is regularly held in this way is probably going to learn very quickly that it is more comfortable to tolerate the handling than to try to struggle against it Just because something has always been done, doesn't mean it is the right thing to do. Unless somebody can show evidence that proves a dog's back is has the mechanical abilities to be supported between chin and tail only, we should probably assume that it is uncomfortable for the dog, as it would be for most vertebrates. It's not really acceptable to do something like this just because everyone else does it. No need to get cross at anyone. The OP is genuine, and if there is evidence that shows a dog's spine is designed for that type of stress load, it would be good if you could share it.

Percynality, most of the people that post here are pet owners, and do not breed dogs or work in the veterinary industry. The fact that dogs are happier and healthier when treated differently to how one would treat a child is very well known to anyone that has studied dog behaviour or who has a lot of experience with dogs. Your entire experience seems to be based on two dogs you have owned for less than two years, and a handful of vet visits. What value do you think we will get from you sharing your opinions on dog behaviour and the entire veterinary industry? There are people here that have had experience working with hundreds of dogs, who have spent years researching and reading about dog behaviour and welfare. People who love their pets like family and associate with other pet lovers. And they all have disagreed with you. Doesn't that make you think that possibly your theory about dogs being like children might be wrong? A dog that is treated like a child is more likely to display anxious or aggressive behaviour, and will have its owners trained to do what it wants. Which means that if ever you need to do something that the dog doesn't want, like hold it still during a veterinary procedure, the dog will struggle and scream. Not in pain, just in protest. I'm glad for your dog's sake you have decided to find a vet. There should be some that cater well to the type of person that does treat their dog like a child. If you let us know where you live people can recommend the best equipped vet hospitals in your area.

I have had coloured leather colours made of pigskin where the leather holds the dye really well and the colour will not wear off. But I have seen a pink coating come straight off a normal tanned leather colour, even if the leather underneath is good quality. I would send the collar back. Unless you were warned the the collar was not an everyday collar. Some collar retailers point out to their customers which collars can withstand wear and tear, and which ones are too delicate for that. Other retailers only stock products they know will take normal wear and tear. Edited to add - Unless you let them know there is a problem with the pink collars, they might continue to sell them to other people who will have the same problem. You are doing them a favour by sending it back so they can see what has happened.

If the weight of the dog is being taken by the hand under the chest and the hand on the tail is used only to steady the dog only, it wouldn't hurt the dog. If one hand is under the dog's chin, the entire weight of the dog is being held by its spine. That isn't comfortable or good for a dog. The spine is not designed to take that weight, even if it is thick.