Jigsaw

That second photo is priceless! I know of one dog that just ate the box, wasn't quite what the owner was hoping for with shaping!

Blind dogs can see after new ISU treatment for a sudden onset blinding disease AMES, Iowa -- If two dogs are any indication, Iowa State University veterinary researchers may have found a cure for a previously incurable disease that causes dogs to go blind suddenly. Dr. Sinisa Grozdanic with the optical coherence tomography scan that is needed to confirm the condition of a dog's retina before the dog can be considered for the experimental SARDS treatment. Iowa State is the only veterinary institution using this advanced diagnostic technology. Download _print-quality version_ (http://www.public.iastate.edu/~nscentral/news/2007/may/img/grozdanic.jpg) of this photo. Photo by Bob Elbert. In the past six weeks, two dogs have been successfully treated for sudden acquired retinal degeneration syndrome (SARDS) by a research team led by ISU veterinary ophthalmologist Dr. Sinisa Grozdanic in the College of Veterinary Medicine. The experimental treatment is the first to reverse blindness and restore sight to dogs diagnosed with SARDS. The treatment restored sight to the two dogs that were treated on April 12 and April 27. "This is the first small sign of hope that actually something can be done," Grozdanic said. The dogs were treated with intravenous immunoglobulin (IVIg), a human blood product that contains antibodies from the plasma of thousands of blood donors. It is used to treat immune deficiencies, inflammatory diseases and autoimmune diseases. "Although the dogs won't be catching any Frisbees, they can navigate and not bump into objects," Grozdanic said. SARDS was first identified in the 1980s and blinds as many as 4,000 dogs each year in North America, he said. The dogs have a sudden loss of vision despite no structural changes to the eyes or damage to the retinas in the early stages of the disease. Their eyes appear completely normal, but their retinas show no electrical activity. Grozdanic and his colleagues wanted a better understanding of the molecular mechanisms that cause SARDS. They worked with the University of Iowa's Department of Ophthalmology and Vision Sciences to conduct genetic testing of SARDS tissue, cross referencing the results with the U of I's datebase of genetic information from different human ocular diseases. "We saw that the molecular profile of SARDS eyes is very similar to immune mediated retinopathy in humans, which is usually antibody induced. That was the key factor," Grozdanic said. Immune-mediated retinopathy in humans was not treatable until about 10 years ago when IVIg was found to show results in some patients. Although the treatment has worked in two SARDS dogs, not every dog is a good candidate, Grozdanic cautions. Dogs with severe cardiac or kidney disease cannot tolerate IVIg. And it won't work in a dog whose retina degeneration is advanced. "Once a dog gets SARDS, the retina degenerates quickly, so it's important the dog is treated with IVIg very soon after diagnosis," he said. "Usually dogs that have SARDS for longer than two months have severe retinal changes. The sooner it's treated, the better chance it will work." An optical coherence tomography scan is needed to confirm the condition of a dog's retina. Iowa State University's Veterinary Medicine Hospital is the only veterinary institution using this advanced diagnostic technology, which is more commonly found in large ophthalmology centers for humans. Diagnostic tests cost about $700. If the dog is a good candidate for treatment, hospitalization and intensive care fees will be about $1,200. The IVIg cost will be between $35-40 per pound of the dog's body weight. "At this point, the biggest unknown is how long the treatment will last. It could be anywhere from a few weeks to a few years," Grozdanic said. Grozdanic recommends owners visit the nearest veterinary ophthalmologist as soon as a dog exhibits any loss in vision "Once a dog gets SARDS, the retina degenerates quickly, so it's important the dog is treated with IVIg very soon after diagnosis," he said. "Usually dogs that have SARDS for longer than two months have severe retinal changes. The sooner it's treated, the better chance it will work." An optical coherence tomography scan is needed to confirm the condition of a dog's retina. Iowa State University's Veterinary Medicine Hospital is the only veterinary institution using this advanced diagnostic technology, which is more commonly found in large ophthalmology centers for humans. Diagnostic tests cost about $700. If the dog is a good candidate for treatment, hospitalization and intensive care fees will be about $1,200. The IVIg cost will be between $35-40 per pound of the dog's body weight. "At this point, the biggest unknown is how long the treatment will last. It could be anywhere from a few weeks to a few years," Grozdanic said. Grozdanic recommends owners visit the nearest veterinary ophthalmologist as soon as a dog exhibits any loss in vision

Aiden is quite right I think. A lot of us are really good at praising our dogs in silly voices and jumping around in the safety of our own home when playing but put us in public and we shut down and so does our dog! Some dogs are socially sensitive especially if there are other dogs around. Try keeping the tug play session really really short. Put the tug on a lead or rope so there is some distance between you and the tug and really encourage dog (use that silly voice, no one's watching!), drag the tug on the ground behind you so the dog has to chase it. If dog shows no interest put it away and do something else and try again later. If the dog shows interest and grabs the tug praise him a lot and let him win it. Put it away and then try again later. Good luck!

You need a behaviourist who can show you how to do some desensitisation and counterconditioning to departures and him learning to relax when you are out of sight. Rescues often develop separation anxiety from their carers or adoptive owners.

A leaf? Anything will do for my girl, socks, pegs, grass, even me jumping around! She's a nut!

Tat - the clip shows the dogs working together with their handlers, doing obedience/tricks side by side with their handlers, lots of public demonstrations with the team of handlers and dogs. Shows the dogs mingling together off leash with no issues. Talks about clicker training and satisfying the dogs needs according to its breed (ie long walks or and even doing protection training) can help a dog feel better about itself so you don't get behavioural problems. I think they say a dog mirrors an owners behaviour - calm owner, calm dog - that's why it's called mirror training. I think that was the gist of it, feel free to correct me anyone if I got it wrong or left something out! It sounds good but I'd still like more information on it!

Is this what you mean? http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=norcsi...u/1/u-M7aAAiSAU There are English subtitles to this clip.

Not sure if you meant my post Erny but I acknowledge it was not a definitive description and was very brief due to my supposed to be getting dressed at the time to go to my son's Yr 12 Formal!! :D

Do you crate her at home? It's possible she's learnt to manipulate you that by barking she will get your attention whether through rewards or aversives. How far away can you get before she starts to bark?

The "Be Still" exercise is one of Brenda Aloff protocols. The "Be Still" exercise is one of putting pressure on the dog until you get a calming signal such as a yawn, lip lick etc. From my notes from conference early this year: BE STILL CUE – desensitises dog to touch – feel it relax. BE STILL - body rub until feet still – lip licking, yawning, deep breath – release of pressure, when stops moving take hands off. The signals are described by Turid Rugaas as calming signals, used by dogs in situations to defuse stress whether from internal or external souces. A dog that uses calming signals is exhibiting normal behaviours, so yes the dog is using stress displacement behaviours in response to being restrained.

There is a great yahoo group [email protected] with lots of advice. Also http://www.blinddogs.com/ has lots of tips and links. It can be useful I've read to teach commands such as "slow" if they are moving towards an object that might be in the way, also directional cues such as "left" or "right" and "up" and "down" for stairs.

You need to put time into watching the DVD's, transcribe notes from the DVD's. You may even watch them a few times. Going over notes, further research and assignments, training complex skills to a dog/s. Plus setting aside the time for the two prac training blocks which are pretty intensive long days. It's certainly doable but if life gives you a few hiccups (which it did me) it can get difficult to juggle committments to the course but you can request extensions if needed.

Agree with SSM but add I'd get them both health check just to be sure. You need someone to see exactly what's happening but if you can feed them in separate rooms and not letting them back together until food is eaten and bowls removed it might reduce some of the fighting in the meantime.

I know the feeling PAX, someone described my koolie girl (the mad Paxy) as hairtrigger. I find I have to be very careful about how I use my hands and since I get myself confused it's no wonder she has trouble sometimes!! Paxy will cue for play by my feet and body movement, with no voice cues, she knows we're going to do the "play dance"! Doggy dancing people I believe use foot cues for some movements. An inadvertent cue we often accidently put into place is when using food or even ball/tug rewards is sign tracking, the dog watches your hand to see if it is going to get a reward because we often mark and move the hand with the reward at the same time.

I love that one!!! Have you seen the piano stairs? Positive reinforcement for using the stairs!

for Mandela! Hope he just continues to improve and bloom!

I have an extra copy (brand new, never read) that I'm selling of Genetics and the Social Behaviour of the Dog, The Classic Study, by John Paul Scott & John L Fuller it's listed in the Marketplace in Off Topic if you're interested.

My Paxy is very social, much like Kivi. She loves to meet other dogs (and people) and play is her middle name! She has very good social skills IMO, most often on seeing another dog she stops and checks it out, after which she will either bypass the dog or greet it. She is almost two and the other week she met a young (9mths) Belgian Shepherd who insisted on keeping his nose up her bottom. Well she clamped down her tail (it's usually always up) and then he started on her face. She kept turning and doing a snarky snap at him but he still didn't get the message but she never got nasty with him! She just did her best to avoid him. I love watching dogs interact, signs are so subtle and quick sometimes.

Brad Gavaghan, cardiology specialist works mainly around Brisbane, but every couple of months he goes to Sydney. The number is 0414 620 710. I haven't used him but he was highly recommended to me.

My mother constantly pounds me with the fact I have a working dog and she should be in the country, it really annoys me! My girl is very active even on her own in the mornings, she runs around the backyard chasing flies and bees, even after a walk, but I'm home most of the day, I do a LOT of training on and off through the day (obedience and tricks), she has off leash running and swimming but not everyday and she has walks. But she does stop and rest in the afternoons, ready to go again in the evenings! I think it is a matter of being aware of what stimulation your dog needs.

Saw this link on a discussion list. LINK Some of the comments are just amazing. eta: if this is in the wrong place let me know and I'll ask for it to be moved.

Chicken shops usually have the carcases and backs and the chicken mince for pets which has bones in it. I think it is Slick Chicks (not very helpful though if I can't remember the name!) - they will sell bulk carcases from the factory but I'm not sure about the pet mince.

I do tend to get self conscious but more in front of other trainers! I've realised that if I'm flat my dog is flat so if I have to be the local idiot jumping around on the oval well so be it!!!! Our sporting ovals had soccer training, loudspeakers, cricket practice on the oval and in the nets and tennis players last week so I just have to make use of this more often. Due to circumstances today I was at a shopping centre today with Paxy so we slipped in a little bit of focus work. So on now to be the idiot at the shopping centre jumping around with the dog!!

Soft food is much better for a dog that inhales treats! You could try raw mince in your hand too so that it has to be licked off. Pretty eeeww but not much different to being covered in labrador slobber when training! Another option if you're using a spatula as a target is to move to a squeeze food tube, available from some camping shops also CleanRun has some as well. You could also try to teach her "gentle" in taking her food rewards ie not allowing her to take the food until she is settled and more calm so she doesn't inhale the treat and your hand!

What a timely topic! I've been thinking about getting a pad and collar over the past few weeks!! Especially as it's about 35° outside today has prompted me to action! Now I know where to go!