puggy_puggy

Yep I would be getting rid of the tinned as well and adding chicken bones and red meat bones.

I got it all wrong didn't I. Can you tell I am a semi vegitarian? (Don't eat red meat)

Cazz sounds like the other have made great suggestions. I to would be adding more red meat and think that the lack of it may be the cause of your dogs seemed tiredness. How about trying kangaroo. You can get it cheap from animal produce shops. My version of BARF: I make up veggie slops that will always contain: Flaxseed Oil eggs and shells celary carrot zuccini capsiucum alfalfa apple pumpkin with other things such as brocolli, cauliflower, pineapple, sweet potato, bannana rotating depending on what's cheapest and what's available. I feed the slops every day with a roation of the following added to it: - chicken necks at least twice a week - chicken breast roasted every two weeks or so - canned sardines or canned tuna at least once a week - kangaroo meat once a week - I also feed lamb, beef and pork bits once or twice a week depending on what is going the cheapest at the shops. - Low fat youghurt once a week (along with the slops and whatever meat they are having that day) - Lambs kidneys once a week (along with the slops and whatever meat they are having that day) The will also get a red meat bone twice a week.

I definatley would be changing vets. When my girl pug sprained her elbow last year my vet told me not to walk her, let her jump off the couch or have her playing zoomies with my other pug for two weeks. She was put on a course of tablets and injections and was fine after the two weeks. I have since had a step built for her to get up and down off the couch and steps built for my bed so she can up and down off their without jumping. A sprained elbow is a lot less serious then a torn ligament.

Sorry but it's not only the pugs that I have had in my care that do the humping I have also witnessed many other pugs belonging to other people that exhibit this behaviour. My experience is that humpa maniacs will settle down after they have been desexed. Pugs come in all different shapes and sizes depending on the breeding line so I really don't think that desexing at 6 to 8 months makes any difference in their eventual shape and size. The only differnece I have ever noted about pugs that are desexed young compared with pugs that are desexed later in life is that the ones desexed young don't get the donut butt and the big nipples that later in life desexed pugs get. There are certainly no adverse effects on their health. But anyways I guess it is different for other breeds. Trishalouise your poodle is a toy breed so obviously doesn't have that much growing to do. I would get her desexed before she comes into her first season. Less hassel for you and her. Mmm now people are going to be scared to get their dogs desexed because they think it is going to majorly adversley effect their health.

Pretty sure they are both from the leg. And you should be able to get rib bones everywhere. I might be corrected but I am sure all, well nearly all, butchers get the whole carcuss of the animals delivered to them and they cut them up into the different portions of meat.

I did the same with my girl pug. I would take my boy pug for walks and carry the girl tucked up in my jacket. I also had friends come over with thier fully vaccinated pugs for play dates at my house.

When my girl pug was a puppy and being a fussy eater some people said to feed chicken skin to fatten her up. I went through a stage that I was spoon feeding her. Thankfully now she is a little piggy when it comes to food.

If your dog is fully vaccinated there would should not be a risk to it. People taking their puppies out and about before they are fully vaccinated are putting them at risk especially if they come in contact with dogs that the vaccination history and health history isn't known. Also just coming in contact with the grass or other surfaces that a sick dog has been on puts a puppy that isn't fully vaccinated at risk of getting ill. Like DC and LN have said if you socalise puppies with dogs that you know are vaccinated and have a clean bill of health in your home or another area that you know hasn't had any strange dogs in it then the puppy will be fine.

Kobe's Mummy it's cruel for your dog to exercise on it's injury. Crating is the only way. You could also use a small puppy pen but she has to be kept quiet. If you get her operated on and let her run around you will have wasted your time the vets time and put your dog through an operation for nothing. I am not sure on the exact time that you will need to keep her crated for after the operation, others who have been through it with thier dogs will be able to tell you, but it would be at least for 3 weeks or more. As for feeding. Dry food I think is ok if you have a good brand but those meat rolls IMO are not very good at all. She would be better off with you adding vegtables and human grade meat, kangaroo, fish & chicken to her dried food then the dog meat rolls. There are many opinions on what a good dried food is. (Some say that there is no good dried food) Over the years I have feed Science Diet but have always added vegtables, egg and different forms of meat to the dried food. Last year I switched to a BARF diet which has no dried food in it at all but vegtables, fruit, egg, youghurt, chicken, fish, offal and other red meat & bones. Have a read up of BARF and RAW diets. You may decide to change over completely to a no dried food diet or change to only some dried food, good quality, and some vegtables and meat.

My boy is 2.5 years old and has subsisted on a diet of kangaroo, carrott, zucchini ONLY for the last 18 months. He is on a severly restricted diet due to food intolerances and inflammatory bowel disease. He is in fantastic condition which only continues to improve. Do you add any suppliments?

Have you been using the Advantix on your dogs already?

Get the weight off her. Cut her food back & add vegtables as a filler. From what the others have said sounds like the best option would be to get her operated on soon to repair the ligament rather then waiting for it to try and repair itself. I would be getting a second opinion from another vet. If you do choose to not operate straight away and see if it reapirs itself you need to purchase a wire crate to confine her in straight away. Only letting her out on a lead to go to the toilet. So no exercise at all for at least a few weeks or so. She will either be in her crate or on the lead for a quick toilet stop. It may seem cruel but it's the only way that the ligment might heal itself. If you do choose to operate you will also have to go with the crating and toilet breaks on leads option.

There has been a chucky bug going around.

Makes sense now. He obviously only had 2 shots as a puppy instead of the normal 3. They usually have 1 whilst with the breeder then 2 when they are in their new home. I am really not sure if you need to take him for his 2 shot in this course. Some may say no but I would err on the side of caution and get it done. I am speaking from the rescue side of things where we get dogs that we have no idea of their vaccination history so they will get the 2 shot course. Usually they have the first vaccination whilst in care of the rescue then their new owners will usually get the Kennel Cough booster.

I to would be feeding a bit more then just kangaroo and carrots. That is not a balanced diet but it's a start. Have a read about BARF diets and RAW diets.

Are you anywhere near the beach? Salt water is great.

I do it with Revolution. I cut the bottom off the tube and use a drawing up needle to suck the liquid out, take the drawing up needle off the syringe, then distribute it between the two pugs. HigginsCrew I probably would be getting the 10-25kg just to be sure but this is only my point of view. You can actually buy these products much cheaper online on ebay and sites like http://www.pricelesspets.com.au/?page=home

I have known many dogs that have had the lump after their vaccine and haven't turned into itchie scratchie dogs. I would not be blaming the vaccine for his skin condition. Have you tried him on antihistamines?

I to would take him to the vets for a second opinion. He seems to have chewed a fair bit of hair off his back legs. Really does seem like an allergy of some sorts.

Looks more like a contact allergy then anything else. Probably just a coincidence that it's in the belly button area. Most likely the belly button area has the least hair so the allergent is able to get to it easier. The black bit seems to be a skin discolouration caused by the allergy. It probably wont go away but I wouldn't be to worried. Have seen this sort of discolouration on the skin of pugs. My boy pug has it in his groin area. I would just be cleaning it with something like Physohex (human acne face wash). Maybe applying some sort of ointment like Panalog if it gets really crusty.

Would a stripping/shedding blade help? I use one that looks like a hacksaw blade bended in an oval with a handle on the end for the pugs. Works a treat.

If he isn't a show dog then I would keep his hair cut short. He might need some antihistamines. He might have an allergy to what he is feed or a plant in the garden. What does he get bathed in? What do you clean the floors with? What do you clean his bedding with? He might have started the chewing for a reason but now it has become a learnt behaviour. You said he does it when no one is at home. Could be a seperation anxiety behaviour rather then itching himself.

Isn't there a special cream or ear drops that is specifically used when it comes to plucking out ear hair? I think it makes the hair easier to pull out.

Maybe you should consider changing her diet to either a BARF or RAW food diet instead of the dried food. Some dogs can be allergic to the grains they put in dried food. What do you bath her in? What area of Australia are you in? I know alot of people in NSW and Qld are having problems with their dogs skins because of the constant rain and muggy weather. If you are in a warmer climate maybe she is shedding.