luvsdogs

I never thought of it in that context. It would be devastating. I know when April passed it was a little easier having Sooty around.

Welcome to dol. You are doing the right thing in not wanting the puppy to jump up, a lot of ppl encourage it when the puppy is young, small & very cute & wonder why they have a big dog that won't stop jumping up. Teach your puppy to sit by luring him into the sit. Have a food treat in your hand, put it to Baxta's nose & slowly move it above his head following the line of his nose. As he looks up at the treat he will sit. After doing this a few times it's time to give it a name 'sit'. Now you can lure him into a sit for everything he gets & wants. You will be able to teach your son how to interact with the pup & as said it's your responsibility to protect your baby & as she becomes more aware you can also teach her how to pat Baxta. For anything you don't want him to do, as in the jumping up, totally ignore him & that means no eye contact, pushing down or talking to. It's all attention to him & that's what he wants. When he sits nicely give him a small food treat & praise. The same with the toilet training, take him outside to where you want him to go & when he does praise & treat. The best way to clean the area he makes a mistake in is to use an enzyme cleaner. Anything with ammonia in will encourage him to go back. If you can't find any at the pet shop you can use an enzyme washing powder mixed in water to clean up with.

Can't remember which way it goes but say its 2yrs between large breeds & 3 yrs between small breeds or visa versa. I read this in another forum for the time to wait b4 getting another pup. It's important to let you current puppy have your full attention & have him trained to a level that your happy with. Puppies follow what the older dog does & this includes good & bad habits. If you bring in a female pup you should get your boy neutered before she reaches sexual maturity. You don't want puppies from a puppy, she needs to have at least 3 heats b4 mating. When having 2 puppies it's important to train & walk them separately at least 3 times a week so they don't become totally dependant on each other. When a new puppy has been added to my family there has been a 7.5 yr gap & this has worked well, but in your case I would wait until your pup is 2 y/o b4 adding another.

I would never get 2 puppies together. It's something I learned years ago & hear it often at my obedience club. My last dog was still with one of her sisters until nearly 12 weeks & I'm sure they taught each other bit inhibition as she's not a biter. Agree with the others it's so important to treat them separately, train separately & when the time comes walk separately at least 3 times a week. You want them bonded to you & not so much to each other. We get many ppl with 2 puppies of a similar age in the one family & they are so obsessed with each other that its hard to teach them anything. Good luck with them, would love to see pics.

I don't walk the dogs in the rain. But have gone to obedience training without my dog to help train others. It's the pits when you're stewarding at a trail when its raining heavily.

I totally agree with what the others have said. I would never encourage any puppy to go inside.

Glad to hear she likes her crate, have you started puppy pre school yet?

All of the above. Chewing bones & ripping the meat off them are good exercise for growing jaws & generally all of the dog.

[quote name='newfsie' date='11th Jul 2009 - 07:02 PM' post='3821738' As I said my parents bred GSD...........Any dog/bitch that showed aggression was for the knife.........No pups from them EVER! And if it came up more then once from the same parental bitch/dog in a litter it was the same neuter or spay. Just don't let me get started on backyard breeders. I will keep my soapbox under the computer desk for now. As to hitting, that is asking to get possibly bitten....I hope your friend will seek some help, it sounds like she could do with some I agree, it makes me mad when I hear ppl who want to breed from their dogs without going into all the necessary health & temperament tests.

This is the weekend, I hope all goes well & let us know all about it.

It probably depends on the club. At my club an adult is 18 y/o up until then you're a jnr.

My obedience club arranged for a CGC instructor to give the trialling class the test. We went through the training for a number of weeks b4 the test. Practiced what was required, went to a nearby shopping centre. Everyone doing the test passed except April & I because she semi-lunged at the tester's dog. They all got their leads, certificates & I got a certificate of participation. I would like to do it with Tilba, I believe once they get it you can visit nursing homes etc.

what if he does those things on his own? That's ok, as long as he's not forced to do them. Tilba used to jump up on the furniture & we have a 1/2 wall from the room she sleeps in to the loungeroom. On a few occasions she even jumped over it. I had to put barricades to stop her.

Congratulations, what did you get & how old? All of the above, plus socialise, socialise, socialise. Puppy needs to meet as many & different kinds of people especially kids & men. Let him experience all the sights & sounds in the house - loud music, banging pots, yard, park - wait for vaccinations b4 you put him on the ground, you can carry in your arms. Get him used to going in the car. My dog travels in a crate & is very good. She was well travelled when I got her. Don't be surprised how much he'll sleep in the 1st couple of weeks, he's a baby after all. Can't wait to see pics.

It's so important to socialise puppies from the minute you bring them home & hopefully the breeder will have started from as early as 3-4 weeks old. Puppy pre school usually start from 8 weeks & won't take puppies over 16 weeks. My obedience club takes puppies after they've finished their vac schedule. We have a 4 week beginner class which has puppies from 16 weeks to years. After that you go up to other classes with the rest of the members.

You're welcome. It also goes for jumping, weaving, crawling, not good for their growing bones & joints. I just remembered you taught him to spin, also not a good idea until older.

My son's dog Sooty was fully toilet trained at 10 weeks old. But he got her at 5w/5d. She's nearly 9 y/o & never made a mistake in the house since. Tilba is a different story. She was nearly 12 w/o when I got her & I think that's whats made the difference. She was living outside in a kennel yard when we got her. I followed the same method with the last 3 dogs we've had. She usually gives a single woof when she wants to go outside or come in, which she has been doing for about 8 mths or more. Then after about 3-4 weeks she will do a wee inside. Up until tonight when she did one right in front of me she has gone about 5-6 weeks since she last did one inside. The thing that made me really mad tonight was she had only just come inside, had her dinner & a few minutes later I've been so concious of taking her outside if she's been in for a while or before letting her in (son let her in tonight). Every morning she woofs & sometimes I barely hear or imagine I hear her but stumble out of bed just in case. Sometimes she's still in bed. April wasn't that good compared to Sooty, but with Tilba I think she finally has it & then she does it again. She will be 18 mths Sun week.

It's also important to walk them separately as well. But being only 15 weeks I wouldn't be walking them too far or for too long. While Tilba was that age we didn't get far because I was stop, starting teaching her not to pull.

Is this what I call beg or the Americans sitting pretty? How old is he? If he's younger that 1 yr I woudn't get him to do this until his birthday. It's not good for growing backs.

It's quite easy. If he's still young enough & lifts his paw as puppies do all you have to do is take the lifted paw gently & add the words you want. I simply use shake hands. If he's no longer doing this, have him sit in front of you & with a food treat in your hand put it to his nose & gently push on the diagonal just under his muzzle. It will put him off balance & he will lift the opposite paw. Do it for both sides. Don't grab his paw if he's really quick. Just put your hand under the paw the 1st few times. Then give it a name. High 5 is an extention of shake hands. Once he's shaking reliably you need to trick him. When he goes to shake hands, put your hand up in a high 5 motion & lift his paw up like a stop signal. Do both sides. Eventually he'll lift his paw for shake hands with a bent wrist & in a stop signal for high 45. You can take it a step further & get him to wave. Hold your hand out for a shake hands but don't take it. I wave my hand instead & he should wave for you. Good luck. If you want to go further, you can get him to paw at a child's spinning top or toy piano which you can probably get from an op shop or garage sale.

Is this what you were looking for? http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...l=puppy+agility

Here's a link showing Jean Donaldson demonstrating how to use a gentle leader. Conditioning an Emotional Response. http://abrionline.org/videos.php

When my son's dog was a tiny pup I used to give her chicken necks & she used to swallow them whole & yelp in pain. I tried lamb flaps & cut them into single bone thinking they would be easier for her to handle, my mistake, she swalled them whole & yelped. So I started giving them to her in 2-3 bone pieces. No more problems, she had to chew them. I used to wonder what happened to them as her stools were perfectly normal. I later learned that dogs have the necessary juices in their stomachs to disolve bone. Here are a couple of links on rmb myths. http://rawfed.com/myths/digestible.html http://rawfed.com/myths/ground.html

http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/pulling-leash

A flyball competition is a good one. Lots of dogs barking & the noise of the starter & the dogs getting the ball out of the box.