luvsdogs

This was to be my suggestion & you can download his books before & after you get your puppy for free. easy to read & you will see the crate in the play pen idea. Also youtube look up kikopup excelent vids.

I once read somewhere & wish I could remember in which order it goes. It stated that it's best to wait for 2-3 years between large breeds & 3-4 yrs between small breeds or it could be visa versa. My border collie was 3 in Jan & I have been thinking of getting another pup in the near future because my son's dog is 10 & really showing her age. Tilba would be very fretfull when she goes & I would like a play mate for her closer in age than the 7.5 yrs between her & Sooty. As others have said it is more work & it's always best to wait until your present pup & trained to a standard you're happy with because a pup would copy what the older pup does & that usually means twice the mischief.

My old, previous border collie was allergic to wheat & became incontinent so I put her on raw bones, mostly chicken & the odd lamb neck with a little nature's gift can. The eating of the bones improved the look of her teeth & she had this diet for about 4 years. When I discovered kibble that had oats instead of wheat I also gave her this the last year of her life. She lived to almost 15 yrs. You can also give raw eggs, sardines in oil, natural yoghurt, flax seed oil. I used to make the Billinghurst, barf before pre made patties, diet for April back in the late 90's. The vegies need to be pulverised/crushed as in a juice extractor. Originally I used to put it in a the blender but made a very wet mix. I guess you'd call the prey model diet more Tom Lonsdales type diet.

The puppy kindies that I've heard of have pups from 8 - 16 weeks.

Nice photo JP.

Have you read this thread Miss Metal? It's very long but a real eye opener as to a buyer being ripped off because they wanted a blue stafford.

My son's dog gets a yellow discharge from one eye, same thing wipe it away & it comes back. She did have a growth on that eye which came off a few weeks ago but it still gets mucky. I have sometimes washed the eye with a dilute mix of 1/4 apple cider vinegar & 3/4 filtered water which seems to help. My cat suffers from a blocked tear duct & it sometimes waters which is clear. It goes away for a time with pressing a finger for a few seconds in the corner of the eye. A vet told me to do this when April was a baby & with her I only had to do it a few times over her life. The cat's a different proposition, have had to press on the eye quite often. When she had it bad a few weeks ago, when it wouldn't go away with the pressing, I used the apple cider vinegar mix & after 3 goes a week apart it went away. If it doesn't go away with simple measures I'd take him to the vet.

My vet usually uses protech. Didn't take any notice what brand was used with the breeder except she was given C3 & C4. When I took her to my vet she was given C7.

I have'nt done it but one of these days I would like to get a dehydrater & make my own dried meat treats, much more healthy than the pre-packaged ones. You could also do fruit & vegitables too.

Glad to hear he's back to his old self. My cat when she was having her baby vacs was ok after the 1st, lethargic for a few hours after her 2nd & quite ill after her 3rd. I was so worried I took her straight back to the vets & she addmitted her overnight because of a high temp. Now when she has her vacs she has to have an anti-hystamine vac before & all was ok last time & she's now overdue for her annual. Must take her next week & hope she has no reaction again.

Definitely not. Pups shouldn't be walked/exercised too far until they are at least 12 months old. It's not good for growing bones & joints. Also my vet always says not to exercise straight after a vaccination in case they have a reaction to it. Can happen even if no reaction b4.

This was the most amazing blue heeler I had ever seen. http://www.myspace.com/video/vid/5976714

Dogs have a defence reflex that they can't control if woken up suddenly http://ezinearticles.com/?Prevent-Dog-Bite...e&id=455034

You need to be more vigilant. Don't let him have access to different rooms unless you can watch him every second. All errors is housetraining are the fault of the owner, not the dog. I think he may be confused as to what you expect of him. I have never used puppy pads & since being on forums have read that they confuse the puppy especially if eventually you want him to toilet outside every time. Ian Dunbar's alternative to this is http://dogstardaily.com/radio/202-%E2%80%93-loo-logistics shortened version, http://dogstardaily.com/radio/104-errorles...hewtoy-training longer, earlier version.

Well for starters i wouldn't rush to get a pup just because it suits now,you may end up with a pup that simply isn't suitable at all. Pups travel well but if you want a pup quickly then you need to build a good trust if buying from east . You wiil be buying site unseen so you need to trust the person is sending you what you are expecting. Have you not tried the WA Malt breeders Kym Prendergast has some stunning Malts . We have Havanese breeders in WA too. The Havanese is no bigger than a Lhaso even a Shihtzu could be comparable in this size range. Grooming depends if you want a full coat or clip off but keep in mind that will cost around $50/60 . I have to agree & say the fist breed i thought off was a Papillion as well. Have a look at this thread to see what can happen with buying a pup sight unseen. It's very long but I think will give you a good insight. Not saying it happens to everyone but something you should be aware of. http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=213239

I was going to recommend a pap. They would be easy to groom though, wouldn't they? I've heard that they don't have an undercoat, is that true Paptacular? I have looked at a papillon a lot & if I ever get a small dog it is one I would like. We used to have a maltese living next door to us & every time we used the bathroom, opened/ closed a door or window he would bark at us. It drove me mad.

thanks for that, I had no idea it was on.

The puppy pre-schools that I know of take pups from 8 - 16 weeks old the reason being they are all in the same boat re vaccinations. Tilba was 11w5d old when I got her & a little over 12 weeks when she started kindy. Even though she'd had 2 vaccinations I used to carry her around when on outings until she had her 3rd. It didn't stop me from taking her places. I met this fellow http://www.cleardogtraining.com/ at a conference in 2004. From the website it looks like a good kindy.

Can't remember what it's called because I used it many years ago with April & she hated it. It came in a plastic jar & was one of those keep off the garden products. It was like green jellied granules with a very unusual, unpleasant smell. I either got it at Woolies garden isle or KMart.

After going to my 1st conference back in Feb 2000, Ian Dunbar told us to try getting our dog to sit from a down, with us lying down with our head at the dogs outstretched feet, as mentioned above. That night I tried it with April & she did it straight away, being a chicken I never asked her to do it again as I didn't want to spoil the exercise. I should try it with Tilba as she's not as well obedience trained as April was.

When I had April it was not recommended to do agility until a dog had reached 2 yrs old. Which I did. April was a bit of a Jeckyl & Hyde. J at obedience & H at agility. I love watching agility. Flyball is very noisy & if you suffer headaches, I'd give that a miss. Also back in April's time people that were having trouble training their dogs in obedience went to agiliity, something that the older, traditional instructor saw as a cop out. Since being on forums I now know how technical agility can be.

Our now 10 yr old dog used to bark at the oven door, & high gloss duco on the car, she was barking at the strange puppy looking at her. She now barks at passers by outside the house. I woulnt call her a nuisance barker. Ignore it as best you can & enjoy the funny puppy antics.

I'm used to bigger dogs that tend to chew things up quickly. I would watch the soft toys & squeakers for wear. You don't want any choking hazards. As he grows & gets older he may start to take more of an interst in them especially during teething.

Ah, now I remember you too. It's funny how we only remember the dogs. Yes your routine was good, but the fringed skirt was flapping in Shandy's face & she was trying to keep her distance. At my obedience club we have one of those plastic streamer door thingys for the dogs to go through, Shandy probably just needs practice going through something like that to get used to it.

Were you at the workshop 2-3 weeks ago in Sydney CleoJ? Your corgi looks familiar. If so i was there with my very naughty border collie. Yes, Shandy & I did the workshop in Sydney with Vickie and Loretta. I learnt so much that day! Now I'm just trying to screw up my courage to compete! I'm sure you & Shandy will do very well in a comp. From what I saw Shandy was very focused & did the moves well, unlike Tilba who has very little focus on me.