Dogsfevr

Personally I oud be concerned ,Have you kept the breeder up to date itch your issues if not do so in a new puppy owner fashion and see how helpful they will be . How are the puppies teeth ,where the parents health tested ,what did the breeder say about pup being under weight at collection . I would be concerned at this stage

Sibes are great escape artists & hence often dumped at the pound as the homes just weren't right for them fence wise & time wise . There not the breed for everyone ,the shed like crazy,escape,howl & can be terrible offlead .You can't be there 24/7 but its important to access if your home is Sibe safe & then set up accordingly . If your fully aware & ready to work with these aspects then your heading down the right path . If you plan to be home for that time frame when the pup is there then it truly is important to set the pup up for success for when you go back to work. As it will be summer you need to plan where the pup will stay & adapt the environment for summer because you do need to set it up for what your routine is for life . It would be very wise to discuss with Sibe rescue many of the pitfalls that owners fail to think off .Keep in mind Sibes are more of a pack dog than others so there may be better ways to manage a one off Sibe household

I would say if your relying on the bark then you need to find a new alternative to let you now ,whether that be a mat that allows you to hear him at the door . I would tend to agree that being allowed to pee inside becomes the easy option now so no real need to let you now as its acceptable behaviour,chances are during the day at first he was barking with no response & has given up . I would be looking at setting an area up with false turf or real turf in the room if that is going to be the toilet option . My friends use real turf & its placed in a tray ,taken out to be watered etc etc & it works very well

I dont go by any specifics but mine are 25 inches high

All my large breed dogs are feed from stands have done so for near 30 yrs There is no right or wrong,some bloat research says yes some say no to raised feeding. I feed raised from puppies because there posture is better & they eat calmer & don't chase the bowl around the floor.

I would say it doesn't really matter what the reason is ,its just time to keep them separate , i agree with the poster that said it must be painful for the dog with its issues & no fun being constantly harassed & given how fragile Iggys can be i would be worried about snapping bones .

If the dog soils before departure it wont get loaded,barking isn't an issue ,if the dog was badly distressed they would have to use there judgement ,hence why its better to just go with the tough love approach when you drop off,the dog will now something is going on so don't make it more than it is. Get to the airport ,do the paperwork & just load dog quickly with no good byes what ever & make sure at the other end you don't fuss or go crazy with the water ,also dont feed the dog two quickly ,it will be fine without food for a period

What to do keep it simple ,collect pup take it home,place in backyard ,sit calmly with it and let it settle. You don't need to take food ,diffusers ,Water yes,take a garbage bag in case pup has messed on the bedding and a old towel and either wet ones or a damp towel in case it has dolled and you can wipi it over . Most of your questions your breeder will inform . Crate generally is hired especially as must pups will outgrow the crate sent over in . When getting pup out keep it calm ,there is plenty of time for getting excited the airport isn't that place

Agree half hr no need for water and why would you give to much water to a breed prone to bloat . I'm not sure what your issue really is ,my dogs don't go off leash on walks,I don't do dog parks . If you wish to now his business why not ask him surely better than gossiping with a neighbour .

Yep i walk with purpose no meandering here & no sniffing ,my dogs don't need to sniff where every other dog has peed nor do they need to sniff to find unwanted or unsafe things on the floor before me They have plenty of other opportunities to sniff. I say what a good owner to get his dog out and about,maybe his dog has issues so the 3 brisk walks on a controlled lead is what is required, I would sooner a controlled lead then the idiots who have them on extender leads or long leashes & think there dog can do as it pleases as you walk past,Far to many idiots walking dogs these days so could here there is one decent one out there

First off i wouldn't be taking him to a dog wash transmitting skin issues is not fun . Dishwashing detergent can be useful BUT you must wash often afterwards as it can be harsh on the coat ,i wouldn't use it on a dog with issues at present . If he is smelly than its most likely yeasty & it will take time to make good ,also keep in mind it may be the feet that smell & often need treating as well We would use selsum blue (first choice)or heads n shoulders

She is in WA this weekend

Does he have to pee on walks. Walks in our household isn't for toileting but for activity . If you need your dog to wee due to the amount of time away from home then you need to go back to basics & teach pup to toilet on the lead

I had a a Dog who went down in his back ,a dye run was done and surgery performed It took near 9 months for him to walk again with constant physio,mum had an awesome boss ho allowed the dog to go to work due to having to toilet him etc .It was hard work and full time commitment until he passed. We actually didn't authorise surgery but it was done. Do we regret the after care no ,would I do it again never Our biggest mistake not waiting ,do not be made to feel guilty or rushed,ask lots of questions and expect them to be answered in laymans terms and If need be take a nutrul friend to hear the good and bad The reality is could spend $$$$$ for no outcome or a dog that needs a cart

My dogs are more active than yours & fly often i fly out generally on the early bird flights .I just get up early & they get to toilet,what you need to remember is there is limited water in the crate ,they have to lodged 120/90(varies from airports) mins prior to the flight once lodged you have no contact with the dog so if it drinks alot will not be able to toilet & being confined a crate means if the dog is over heated it can't move about to get comfy ,the enclosed crates now used do get warmer as well.Also it can take up to an hr for the dog to get off it flight at the other end so you don't need a thirsty dog . Feeding is a big no no you have a breed prone to bloat you need to minimize the risk factors when flying . I would simply concentrate on shutting the crate door & even making the dog sleep in it over night . What you need to remember is a 2 hr flight ends up being a near 5 hr crate time .

My dogs are frequent flyers ,I always pick flights that is suited to the dogs weather wise ,I wouldn't bother with the park , if your plan is to wear the dog out it won't make any difference except thirsty ,your dog needs to have ideally toileted at home and then loaded cool and calm not over heated and thirsty or have food in its tummy I never ever leave collars on to risky to get caught if they hit turbelance and no toys or chews your dog should have minimal risks whilst crated ,if act airlines generally will say no to toys aw a risks , The crate door should be sparky tied by the staff or do it yourself ,I tape info on the crate and remove Not sure what size your dog is ,I hire crates for my guys because the crates are to large and annoying at the other end ,I will take fold up crates as excess luggage .

Yep Jap chin cross is what he looks like,I agree get a belly band ,some toys breeds can be terrible piddlers so the sooner you address this the better . Personally i would get a puppy pen so if you want to confine at times you can & he can still be visual to you ,

Most of them buy from faebook pages that sell show suits there is one in Tassie that does. Ask fellow juniors in Tassie where they buy from & many juniors will sell suits once they outgrow them. Not sure if your on FB but you could ask the the junior handler page for Tasmania

We use hydrogen peroxide as well on yeasty feet with great success but like everything you need to access each dog and its issues

Find more interesting toys ,Kongs aren't for every pup nor are pig ears & the likes .Remember the back yard is there domain ,if it isn't fun they will find there own amusement & don't be so "routined" the pup has no fun or joy .They will chew things so put them away just like having a toddler first walking ,if its in there reach its a free for all . Mind you our pups aren't big chewers because we arent so routined ,there toys are soft teddies & things that play games with them & make sole life more fun . Also keep in mind im sure some dogs thrive on the reaction they get from being naughty ,i say this in the sense that touch more direction can make a dog disconnect from what is fun & they get a bigger thrill from being told off

all our Schnauzers are bathed in heads or shoulders or selsum blue & we recommend it to our puppy owners,we have no skin issues but find this product great . We trim poodle feet & it does help greatly especially if the feet are staying moist as they often end up with tinea ,we tell our clients to use caniston or similar,even washing in white vinegar helps . Problem is if the ears are bad you must treat the feet as well otherwise the cycle never ends & most vets do onot suggest treating the feet

We only all worm now ,never had the need to flea treat & no longer heartworm ,after weighing up the risks & always heartworming we no longer do . Obviously area plays a factor . Your breeder should have advised what they suggest . Be aware vets will sell what products they often get support . There is no need to flea/tick treat if you have no issues & prevention shouldn;t always be a factor . I show my dogs & there not treated ,if i have to for any reason which is generally because im going out of state to a high risk area then i will but i don't just do because & on a baby i would not be rushing out to apply stuff

I think she needs to do more research on what she wants ,westies & Cockers are like chalk & cheese. If laid back & easily to train is a must a Westie can fit that but they are a terrier & a typical Westie is a spunk ,trainable but require more effort ,laid back ones do exist but pick your breeder wisely ,you want a good coat . Cockers i see alot of & they vary alot from nutty,normal,over the top & owner obsessive & very vocal . Both the westie & Cocker will need regular trips to the groomer so have an on going expense . Cavaliers wont need the trip to the groomer but again need brushing & do shed alot but remember a Cavalier is a sporting spaniel & shouldn't be a lazy couch potato hence why they are so successful in obedience & agility All breeds should be good with kids with the normal care given .