Dogsfevr

It's a Isi you take owning a dog,some insurance have limitations on breeds and then it comes down to making sure your yard is dog proof,easy to not have your dog hit by a car,safe yard and a leash .

I am going to be the opposite and say over feeding is very easy to do & not all pups eat equal . We measure our litters food based on there condition & what there getting from mum. Its very easy for some pups to be pigs & over eat & some end up being pushed out . We will place into groups based on needs . Over feeding will results in lots of poos which isn't ideal & you can very easily raise fat puppies which isn't good . At that age we would feed 4 times a day & meals changed based on growth changes * body condition .Your present quantities are not enough . We at that age feed dry,meal,fish etc etc Maybe have a chat with the breeder of your bitch or the stud dog owner on there methods .

The legs you may need to use thinners to get started the issue you have is the legs are just undercoat & will take a great deal of effort to pull the longer you let it grow also keep in mind the coat king is not the tool show people use to strip out coats ,the top coat would most likely be able to be stripped way shorter & into a better shape. Try the Cocker club of QLD many will help if people are keen & some clubs do grooming demos at fun days etc etc ,you can then trim the body into a short show version there are other tools that will do a better job if your dedicated . Go to a horse shop & get a slick n easy stone . If you wish to still use the coat king it depends what blade size you have & they work better when used on a shampooed coat The stone allows you to finger pull & use in areas the coat king wont let you . The back hocks you would scissor up short

Stripping is very easy but it's pointless doing it every few weeks,it needs to be done weekly to keep it under control ,very fewcocker people want to do the work ,a Cocker groomed for the show ring is a sporting groom where the pictures posted makes it look like an American Cocker in body with the fluffy legs which should be stripped out,that coat will reach a point of being over runny under coat .For most clipping is what most pet owners find easy and it's very hard to get a correct coat back that isn't more work ,

Most vets would have no clue by just feeling ,very few dogs with issues will show the signs a vet may think it should . For me I would still be seeking a good chiro/Bowen person

Also important to keep in mind this doesn't just affect breeders but rescues as well ,so those who support rescues need to support the petition .

Secretariat is a great movie for those that want to now the history of the horse,I wouldn't consider it a kids movie at all. Haven't seen the other so can't say

Try Mooreholme pet transport Victoria and Bay City in QLD

Look for ponds ,heavy duty and last ages ,maters have cheap ones at present but Bunnings or any place that does water feature ponds will sell them

What does your breeder suggest ,do they have a desexing condition & an d age or its totally up to you

Good scissors are worth the extra expense as they can be sharpened over the years,cheap stuff is often use and throw out . You can buy good walls around the $50 mark Agrre you don't need curved or bent shanks

Attachments are with the coat,they can slip off so be aware and after much use the spring will wear our. I prefer the plastic to the metal combs , It may also pay you to consider buying a #3 blade ,the key is though to do it more often as the longer thecoat the harder it is for attachment to go through so in our salon we generally skim over with a #7,5,4 to get the bulk off

Your dog needs to stand to be clipped ,laying is fine for brushing but a nightmare to clip and get a decent shape. Attachments don't go on a 4 blade they go on a # 10,15,30,40 . The attachments work fine providing the cost is clean and not free ,You could use a #3 blade that would leave an inch or so BUT the final length and finish will be determined by the coat,if fine it may end up shorter in appearance as there is no bulk to fluff it up,if a nice thick coat it looks cute and fuzzy. Hand scissoring can be done , Keep in mind shorter won't mean no knots ,coats knot due to not brushing enough,using the wrong tools ,washing in crappy stuff or simply a crappy coat that mats. A good slicker brush and comb is all you need ,the coat king not really . I would suggest finding a good groomer to do this first cut and keep the shape or style

Ifirst thing Guinea Pigs will eat fabric and netting ,that is not a safe option ,Guinea Pigs will nibble on wood too. I showed my GP for years ,we had one dog that was awesome with them the others I wouldn't trust nor did we expect them too .GP where always housed safely away and whenout dogs in . The GP where not expected to put up with torment in our hou hold . For the own escape safety GP need to be housed correctly

Same here we feed the normal diet which should be good anyway

If your based in Melbourne they have a big show weekend at the end of this month in Lancefield ,the working dog club champ would be a good show to see breeders and in the past the Tassie breeders often come over

Snoods it comes down to the elastic and comfort and fabric ,some hate them but they learn no snood no food . I would still look for a bowl solution better to have water than a little bit,try raising a bucket up so she can't play with it

I have coated long eared dogs and have tried most bowls BUT the ones that do work hold not a lot of water so I wouldn't rely on it for hot day all day ,I have no drama with ears ,feed time there snoozed . For water just look for something more jug like

Your dog doesn't have HD until diagnosed sorry but to many vets are clueless & often misdiagnose . So what your saying is the specialist will be up,they will knock the dog out,keep under GA whilst they access the x rays consult with you ( i sure hope they are consulting you or are they hoping you will just be pressured ) & during this time your dog is under GA longer than it should be all because they wont knock the dog out now to see.What price tag are they charging for this crazy method .

Sorry but the vet is an idiot if there saying no x rays until just prior to surgery this is not how its done,they should have been done sooner,you had a chance to discuss & understand what is wrong or NOT wrong & discuss with your breeder.You have lost atleast 4 days of this process in which time the X rays would have been sent to the traveling specialist to look over Your dog could simply need a visit to a chiro or bowen massage ,no jumping doesn't mean HD it can have many other factors.My big dogs get the runs when they have pulled muscles Reality is if your pup is over doing it then you need to manage it better & those factors can contribute to HD down the track .

No i wouldn't feed it when your dog comes home to will be crucial to keep the diet as bland as possible . The vets will suggest the can range & yes some dogs wont eat it but its often the best choice until the dogs tummy has settled & no more attacks . Your dog will be high risk of having another attack so you need to consider what gave her this attack ^ avoid it . We have a breed highly predisposed to it & we hand out a diet sheet to suit but sadly many people don't follow it until there dog suffers from it

Pet Stcock use to sell it but apparently the distributor was an issue & woolworths ,interesting if there no longer selling it.

The quantity of food a pup gets when being weaned to a full diet now can still lead up to a diet not working . We do feed RC at times but it does have grains & the likes so if you have a dog that may be "yeasty" then it is a food that can add to the problem. Talk with your breeder about maybe trying a different diet & see what they suggest its good to keep in contact with them. We also feed ivory coat grain free. Do you wish to feed just dry long term or add meat etc etc