Dogsfevr

Honest opinion you will get no where fast if that is a priority & you may end up with the breeder who says yes BUT isnt the best of the breeders . Maybe you need to take longer looking for a pup & get a connection with a breeder that you trust . You say the breeder wouldn't sell because you where concerned about the dog & they would sooner sell to someone that doesn't .This may be a reason why things went pear shaped ,so the breeder has in there opinion decided the pup would be better off not sold to you ,as we don't know the full details just your side this could be a miscommunication,interpretation between two parties but in the end the breeder has to make the judgement call of who they feel they can work with & have that feeling its the right home especially when flying one out of state . Asking for a reference does not mean you are any better than another person who doesn't ,asking questions means alot more than the opinion of a stranger . Some people get focused on one point & take that as being better & a deal breaker ,others prefer to ask other questions that are just as important & makes the breeder feel assured its a good home for a pup they have bred . In the end its up to you what you do you just need to understand that many breeders may not be able to help you with this request so you need to decide how much of a deal breaker it is,whether by doing so you are throwing out the breeder who will be your best long term support for any issues & the breeder you can talk candidly too over the simpliest of things . If no one can help you then you maybe need to look at another breed you can source locally .

Valhunds are in Australia & do very well in the ring . Lancashire Heelers are an interesting breed ,seen them in the UK

Ofcourse it can be done BUT some people expect you to just hand over details without any thought & when you say no presume your hiding something. Most puppy owners don't want to be references & that is perfectly fine .I as a breeder do not expect any of our puppy buyers to be put in this position & its not something of importance in who gets a pup. Like many puppy owners if approached in the park about who bred there dog they will happily share info but for just giving out peoples details & having them as a contact no & too be honest a person who is contacting us & asking for such info would be well and truly vetted .Our puppy owners place a life long sale trust in us & a good breeder values this .

We will not pass on names of previous buyers as references.There details are private and not for us to hand out and I would expect that kind of privacy from any breeders I buy from . If you asked this that would be our answer ,if you weren’t happy with that answer then it would mean we couldn’t help you so you would have to go elsewhere

Breeders are far and few between with a long waiting period . Phone the breeders in your state and talk to them ,ask about health testing . Al, the ones I have meet are very hardy and lived a very healthy long age . Litter sizes are small and not bred often. A good breeder will happily chat . There where some scams happening with puppies advertised but no pups . There are a number of good breeders in Oz ,contact them and be prepared for a long wait or look at another breed

What chewing things are you given the pup at present . As your pup is in the teething process chewing gives them relief . With our pups we rotate the teething options because it’s a fun factor.Some teeth with ease others really struggle so make sure you have some variety in this area . Also don’t forget to ask your breeder various questions we love to help our puppy owners . Whilst playing onlead is not ideal you have no option .Personally we do t leave the lead trailing here because it requires human management which can affect the dogs ability to be independent

You can certainly teach to ideally toilet in a special spot just be consistent between where you want it her to but also open minded that toileting outside at this age is a big deal and if not the spot no dramas

Most vets are useless ,you need to get the dog looked at by a non bias party ,simply someone that can inform you what type of mouth your dog has . Jaws can changed a lot in some breeds you don’t feel safe till 15 months but generally speaking at 12 months if it’s not correct it would take a miracle especially an undershot . Having said that is it truly undershot or a level bite . When the vet showed you the issue how big was the gap from bottom to top Like I said unless your vet is dog show savvy I would not rely on there opinion as to a show dog .

i do wish the info is more correct once a week brush god no ,not with this coat they matt like crazy ,daily brushing with the right tools a must .There coat even in a pet clip is not for the lazy brusher & yes i groom one every 8 weeks also a rescue

I would not show a dog with a bad bite . The standard is very clear on the mouth .the issues that can occur in staffies as with any dog a lack of under jaw which can affect mouths ,malocclusion is something to always be aware off. For starters you need to get this dog assessed by someone who does know ,in all honesty if you have been checking her mouth regularly as part of her show training & general health you should have notice this especially if you have been reading the breed standard & researching . If your breeder is local you need to go & visit them & ask there opinion of the mouth ,if your vet is a dogshow savvy vet who does have a good clue then there opinion is important ,if your vet is clueless then get an opinion of someone who knows correct bites . There is nothing stopping you from showing BUT if the mouth is infact not correct then judges can no award you something you need to ensure your granddaughter is able to deal with if entering the ring .I would suggest if showing is going to happen then an adult needs to show her & see what happens.And as suggested show handling classes is a good start ,the instructors may also be able to give a view of the mouth

I allow all my puppies to have puppy crazies. i don’t believe in not allowing it ,it’s there time to let built up energy happen so I just shut my guys outside . The main thing is to ensure if the weather fine pup spends decent time outside amusing itself ,do not fall into the trap of being its rep,acement littermate and it’s ability to be independent and enjoy its own company . As to toilet time shut the door and leave outside otherwise you need to walk about giving instructions . I have p,aged around if the brain isn’t functioning and then once pup is back to thinking gone back to puppy toilet mood. Never had issues long term or create a problem as long as the desired result happens . Winter babies if inside can get cabin fever easily so ensuring a growing Bub can enjoy zoomies,playing and fun is a must . They are no different to human babies they have there moments . I own a breed that loves to mouth ,PWD water dogs I consider similar so I allow it with strict rules on gentle and rewarding highly that behaviour,I don’t encourage and all mi e grow out of the faze very quickly as it isn’t a game

If your wanting middle ground then I wouldn’t suggest either of those breeds ,infact I think there more full on than a boxer . Also you need to factor in daily walks if that’s what you do ,both those breeds wouldn’t do the same distance especially a Frenchie . Maybe head down to a dogshow and see what breeds take your fancy ,Some people have plenty of time to talk at shows others are busy so doing a breed find and then contacting breeders is better .

May i suggest with your breed of choice you read up about bloat for when hes an adult. This is not about making you fear his future but understanding an issue that many pet owners either choice not to read in puppy paperwork or some breeders don't really mention it. Understanding the potential risks & above all the potential signs a must . I own breeds with a higher risk of this issue ,one of the reasons that i do allow water over night .I am not paranoid over the way i monitor this potential risk but like anyone with a breed at higher risk you can minimize the risk factor

We leave water overnight ,a small bowl

They must be members of there state body

Plucking is a whole topic,keep in mind the vets who often say don't do some form of plucking will be quick to tell you your dogs ears are bad & needs knocking out . Im a groomer & if clients don't want them plucked we wont ,some need some plucking as there way to thick & unless the owners are willing to do the work to ensure good ear health then plucking is fine. We have had dogs in that we thought had sticks stuck in there ears & sent them to the vets asap .Hair that hadn't been plucked,where infected so vets prescribed drops,hair so impacted drops couldn't get down & set like concrete . I wouldn't bother wiping with the salt water . Depending on the actual ear issue aka ear mites (vet should have told you some drops prescribed are often useless,so make sure you keep on top of it ,also make sure the dogs teeth are good as bad ears & teeth can go hand in hand .Plucking can certainly allow such muck to get out which is a great thing We have used Zymox ear drops which contains cortisone in severe causes & runs rings around what vets prescribe ,Buy it online but be sure to know what there earr issues are before using it aka like you have seen a vet

Besides keeping up are you wanting a breed that is more layback so you have a middle ground or do you want both dogs to be go getters .non stop ?? Have you considered another Boxer ??

Actually you are at fault because it’s your job as a responsible parent to ensure more thought went into getting a dog that was suitable for your child or more importantly understanding your child is not ready for a dog and nor are the adults . Impulse buys of a live animal is not a smart move and in a short time frame you have returned 2 dogs which was e right thing to do but should’t have happened in the first place . A dog isn’t something you take on lightly

The dog needs to learn acceptance ,i would feed the dog separate at present ie feed dog in a safe room or a crate if you have one . Then you need to find someone who can help your blended family enjoy & share . How old is the kitten and did it arrive after the pup ? Remember not sharing a food bowl isn't the end of the world or means the dog will turn into satan just simply like humans giving warnings signs to back off its my dinner ,no different to kids trying to steal something of a siblings plate & getting whacked.Some dogs just enjoy eating in peace & will happily share anything .All our dogs are feed in there crates but will accept anything being removed from them in an emergency & will share eat if they had too ,we just prefer the dinner time is a peaceful time approach & owning breeds prone to bloat & having geriatrics around we like all our dogs to enjoy meal time & not feel overwhelmed

We don’t walk them ,we just go straight home .

The problem with buying the crate is the size is generally useless when an adult . Some will charge you for the crate in the fee others hire ,depending on your breed will determine whether the crate is of any use,granted you can often sell them or if you have a cat can be used . If it’s a small breed and travelling in a pp20 it’s hard to get the lead on . Generally speaking it’s easier to just get the pup out if a small breed and carry or place into a washing basket or similar .if a bigger breed a lead allows you to have it secure ,just depends if it’s been lead trained

My dogs are frequent flyers and all my pups fly from the East . Some pups come out bounding others more reserved . I see new owners collecting there pup going hysterical,taking photos and they don’t see the fear in there pup during the process . Nothing wrong with the whole family going as long as they understand the airport isn’t the crazy spot ,it’s loud ,busy and you just need to get pup safely into its crate .Its not a safe area and dogs can get lose very easy ,each airport is different ,some have a small fenced in area for collection others don’t Take a garbage bag,spare towel,wet ones or clothe wipes in case pup has messed itself .

Your arguement for taken a dog on is flawed especially by the fact you had no qualms returning the first one . You are honestly setting yourself and more importantly the dog for failure if you take one on now . A dog isn’t an experiment to teach your son to be nice ,this comes with commitment,consequences and effort from you most importantly. Any dog you take on will require training and have its needs meet because it too will be part of a high stress need and as a breeder I can honestly say not all dogs can and do deal well with special needs children ,it’s a simple fact so plucking any old dog for this scenario is not fair on the dog .We also groom dogs in families that have special needs kids and I can tell you very few have said it’s an easy path balancing it all ,some wished they had waited until there kids where older so they understood the dog more and had learnt better coping skills .Some even board there dogs for respite care aka dog gets time out to have fun and recharge If the dog did bite it will be PTS so your not rescuing it because it’s better than the pound ,your rescuing a long term family member will total thought on its needs. In the end you will either listen to what we have all said and what or go ahead but don’t think your rescuing a dog to do it a favour ,that dog wants to be rescued for life

Its not a simple question because it depends on what your feeding ,how much treats it also gets & exercise /weather i will factor in & body shape .If a dog is barrel chested many will say its fat but you need to understand the shape ,if very long in loin will look underweight & no amount of feeding will make it fat but You gauge the amount by your dog ,if it is fat then feed less,if its under weight feed more. Weight the dog & start from there

Pup will be exposed to a crate as that is what it will fly in . Dont pander to your pup & most importantly don't overwhelm it on the first day or so & that does include the kids .Whilst everyone wants to touch,cuddle not all pups cope with this when they go to there new homes .Don't have visitors over for the first week we suggest to our new owners.Your priority is for this pup to trust you & your family .It has no clue who you are,where things in your home is & not all cope with the flight & come out bounding there other end ,some just need a little more time to get over the flight ,Just take pup home (depending on what time it arrives ) & just start with 1 person outside with it giving encouragement ,if it looks happy bring one child out at a time BUT they musn't dive bomb ,squeal or act like an over excited idiot .I know its hard but the pups needs come first calm & quiet ,sit kid on a blanket * let pup feel the confidence from each person .Even if pup is uber excited just go with the calm approach .Keep in mind it will be hungry depending on how long the flight is as there lodged 9o mins or more prior & take up to 30 mins to offload .Let it toilet ,all be calm,give a small snake & make sure it has a drink Puppy schools personally not a fan unless its one that sets your pup up for good life skills.Most just do free for all playing & no life skills ,how to cope with self control & sit quietly ,focus skills etc etc . If your puppy school teaches nothing of importance then don't bother . Other factors can depend on the breed