Dogsfevr

"we love them & want to treat them like us"is smacking something you & your hubby do to each other??,when a person is going to be smacked they either scream or cringe in the hope of protecting themselves,the dog is growling to protect itself from the smack,a problem that is owner created & the dog is now confused. It sounds to me that the young dog hasnt meet the standard of your first dog which is annoying you both & you are comparing a pup to an adult & trying to be forceful in discipline which hasnt got you any results except create some problems. Loving a dog is fine we all do it ,spoiling it is great but taking away the dogs identity confuses them .You need to go to training,treat them like dogs & stick to a consistant routine that doesnt involve smacking & do this in a big hurry

Agree you can love them all you want but you are treating them like humans,you say you treat them they way youd want to be treated,is smacking something you like??

is she spayed & was there any changes back when she became fussy,like be in season etc etc??

I agree the water can change the results ,i now i get good results in my state but when i go east for shows the coats there do tend to come up even better,water can play a major even in dilution rates ,if diluting & not sure i have used distilled water for that part

I seriously wonder what they actually used to burn skin,that had to be some very harsh product maybe more than just shampoo. I use human shampoos becuase they have given my the best results on my long coats & have never ever done any damage,as to washing out with a clarifying stuff that is used when a change of product is to be used or otherwise every few months ,it isnt designed as a weekly product & that will ruin coats & hair long term. The only dog product i do use is one for a white coat but even then he is still done with human stuff aswell & for 20 plus yrs of great coats results im not changing

Have used human stufff for 20 plus yrs,my current show kids are pee feathered bathed every night in human stuff & full bathed every wednesday & showdays. Dogs with sensitive skins we use head/shoulders or selsum blue but my 2 boys are pantene kids

We dont recommend the yearly jab to our puppy owners ,there have been far to many well documeted cases of health issues related to this & infact the product was withdrawn from the US for a while & the one used in australia is of a higher rating S12 i believe. There are many vets that dont use the product or recommend it.

Worms & a cough can go together .Also what did the vet say about its heart ?? For starters if the pup is 8 half weeks & you have had it a week it was sold under age if a reg breeder as no pup can leave till 8 weeks Personally i dare say they wherent a great breeder to start off with,did you see hip/elbow & eye certifacates for the parents(should have been given copies). It is your call but i think id take it back or pursue matters further it sounds like a problem that will be around for a awhile with expensive bills. just think how much you have spent now in relation to cost of the dog & in a week

getting him spayed early was a good move now you need to address the humping,when he approaches your leg you need to start training his behaviour before he gets a chance,you need to be quicker as usually the dog shows signs prior to humping,its time for you to be the pack leader not the dog

Raine contact the breeder with the problems you are having & they if good should assist you in finding a suitable diet with the breeds best interests. I now as a breeder i always like it when puppy owners ring us up first with any diet issues where we can through the daily feed chart & see if anything else is been given besides the biscuits or that the dog is senstitive to the brand & an alternative is needed,the breeder is the first port of call as many guarantee there pups feed on a said diet .

you hae northern subds,southern river ,rotti club the list goes on. www.cawa.asn.au is the canines website & will have a full list of obedience clubs & contacts

I think you will there are many sites that will show the trims,i am sure the poodle of australia site would have deteails on trims etc

I have groomed other peoples dogs for the show ring ,spent hours pretrimming,show trimming & spending hours explaining that this is a weekly job that you make time for. When they return more than often nothing has been maintained,they havent brought any of the equipment we suggested so you decide not to bother. The hrs spent you ask minimal pay but give alot of free time that could have been spent on daily choirs or your own dogs. For example my 2 show dogs at present are trimmed every wednesday(approx 4hrs)pee feathered bath each night to maintain whiteness & coat,pre show day is another 5 hrs bathing etc. There are dogs that due to time factors we ask they be dropped off & we do up.For a basic pet trim in any breed we charge $40 & that is about 2 & clippers used,so depending on the breed you need to bath first blow dry ,start clipping , hand scissor all up could be 3hrs upwards alot more work & technical detail plus ofcourse acessing the dog faults,movement & grooming according to that as every dog is groomed to enhance,hide & breed standard,very few people want to pay the price of having it done regualry. I wont have people around when i groom my own dogs for the simple reason they get distracted & when scissoring one wrong move & you have sniped what shouldnt have been,when i trim my dogs its done with time & no distractions,we also use a giant mirror to look at results etc. I taught myself to trim,no help just trial & error. What you have to realize is many show people also work & come home & trim there dogs after work or those that do trim there own dogs may not feel comfortable in teaching others as it isnt a week 1hr thing. By the time they teach you top knots pom poms,tear drop shaping etc etc you are looking at a good month of intense learning & after care advice when you go it alone,to learn to be reasonable i would say is a years exercise. You brought a breed that was always going to require technical trimming for many many years & for you it is obvious that your breeder wasnt going to be much help if they take theres elsewhere now,its not that simple to say trim abit here or there as to do that requires you to balance the entire trim accordingly. Maybe try the poodle club of australia site or the poodle club of america site & see if they sell tapes on show trimming

Would the breeder be able to look at the coat for you or someone else whos experinced?? Try bathing now & coaing to see if it works but as gunoush said a mars could be helpful to get the crap coat out

I would say the dog has chewed there & the length of coat has been altered. certainly at this stage you need to cat & blow dry

I wouldnt sedate a dog for flying unless there where bigger issues

I wouldnt sedate a dog for flying unless there where bigger issues

If any training school did on alpha roll on my dog id knock there lights out.The lady with the rotty got what she deserved sadly the dog paid the price ,a situation that shouldnt have happened. We have had pups with no litter mates & with correct training there fine,

Anyone who is helping to train should now what there talking about,no wonder handlers are so confused ;) PS if you want to show GSD you cant use haltis LOL so the chain will have to be used as part of the GSD collar

A chain used correctly is not a problem ,a head halti used wrongly is just as bad as a chain used incorrectly. Go to a dogshow & see all the dogs on check chains .which come in may forms,shapes & sizes9parachute,snake,fine linked,fur saver etc etc)

Heavon forbid you suggest to someone to roll there dog on there bag & wear gloves so when it bites you have protection. So hes biting badly,when does he bite??during play,what where you doing when he bites??is he snappy when you pick up & touch,brush etc, You need to decide is he biting or mouthing,gnawing hard is associated with teeting so its important to direct puppy to a chew toy instead of hands,also dont encourage they gnawing & then when it gets to the hurt stage decide you,ve had enough & tell pup off,its important not to encouragae a scenrio to allow the pup to think its acceptable until you think its out of control. First rule treat as a dog & ensure your pack leader status is obvious,generally we find people with little dogs ,dont treat them with the respect they deserve because there small,whether it be poodle cross or rottie they all require the same boundries,rules & consistant training .Little doesnt mean you except less. Once the dog is fully vaccinated find a good training class & go,once you learn you will find the pup will learn very quickly & all is great,check the baby teeth to also make sure they are coming out & not making mouthing more than normal to try & get the teeth to come out

We have showdogs so bathed weekly & pee feathered bathed nightly. Our wire coat dogs are bathed before every show as no matter what a dog going to a show should be clean when a judge touches them & a good wirey coat doesnt soften bathed correctly,only goes soft if the coat is wrong

Plucking the ear hair with fingers means your not plucking the problem hair,using this method on schnauzers for example would create big issues as you can not pluck the hair out other than using forceps & used correctly is no problem at all, We have used forceps for 24 yrs nowon our own dogs & in the salon for 14 yrs never doing any damage,infact we get many vets asking us how we do it so well.

If the dog has hairy ears which many shih tzus do then it is bette the ears are plucked so the air can get in. We pluck dogs ears in our salon & the best tool is locking forceps,not tweezers or your fingers

Never use water to clean out ears. We use leo or the malasab,the leo is great for maintence of good ears as its drying. If puppy pre school is telling people to use water it sounds like theyll be getting some good business for ear infections