Dogsfevr

Firstly contact the breeder. Im not sure what conditions you have taken on this dog but the breeder needs to be keeped up to date with what is happening. With any older dogs we place out its on condition if it doesnt work out the dog must be returned.Im not saying this will happen but i guess you need to decide now with the breeders assistance what to do as they now this dog better than anyone else .They may also be aware of someone in the breed in your area that could help you or put you in contact with someone experienced to help assist. The important thing is if you send him back your not giving up sometimes older dogs just dont settle & in the interest of all parties this option can be the best option nothing to be ashamed off. Patence is a virtue with this breed ,they do seem to be very sensitive & get overwhelmed quickly. The dog has gained your trust but its important you dont allow the dog to be your boss.You still need to set the rules & with the dogs trust take small steps for it to accept the children.As said a crate will be a good tool at this stage. The dog needs to learan that those noisey kids are also people they can trust & there quick actions & often need to garb or approach in such a manner can be trusted . The most important thing is the kids need to be involved but it must be fun,not over whelming & little steps to build up a relationship with the kids. For example if the 7 & 9 year old are reading,watching TV quietly this is a great time with no fuss made to allow the pup to just get a feel of what is happening,dont have the dog on your knee & dont make a fuss,speak baby, It will take longer with the 4 yr old so i would try to get the older to involved in little ways.

Is the pup going to be a showdog??? Many vets dont have the knack to mouthing dogs & as there teething at this age some dogs have extremely sore gums & depending on how they mouthed the dog it may have hurt.Many with breeds that have heavy flews end up garbbing the flews & squiching them into the teeth & the saga goes on from there. I wouldnt be getting any stranger to mouth the dog especially as many wouldnt now how to do it in a fashion that i would consider educational rather than a bad experience. The other problem with getting strangers to do is you will tell them what happened last time & thats person body language will change to being very cautious which isnt what the pup needs. Many dogs will happily let you take food off them as its easy but when you mouth a dog you need to hold the dog in a position which same dogs fear if there not use to it or understand whats happening. Personally i would practise at home dont over do it .When i go to the vets i mouth my own dogs i never let the vets or the nurses do it,they are show dogs & get there teeth brushed so its no issue for them but as i said many vets just grab the mouth & open without the dog being ready or in a position that is relaxing/comfy With mouthing a Bassett at this age most would just gently hold the flews up & look at each side of the mouth using a finger to ease back to view the rear molars.

For 20 yrs our large breeds have been feed raised with no issues at all & all the breeds where blaot prone breeds

I had a dog that had spinal surgery,he came out worse after the surgery.It took 6 months of intense physio bu ourselves to get the dog to take 1 step,it was 12 months before he was capable of walking about un assisted . He was unable during this period to toilet himself & we had to do it,even afterwards his control wasnt great. This was a small dog.Would i do it again i will be honest & say i would have to seriously consider my past experience.It was alot of work & thankfully we worked from home because it was like living with a disabled person & he needed alot of after care ,physio,muscle build up etc etc

Cavies can be picky eaters so its important you stick to your feeding regime. I would also try adding warm watre to the dry to soften it whilst pup is teething.Some dont eat the dry as its hard on there teething gums but once soaked will happily eat it. Some brands just arent appealling to all dogs but dont get into the habit of buying many brands. Add mince,ideally not beef ass it can sause the runs,skin issues.Mutton is better,chicken knecks. Try tuna in oil once a week but just be consistant & no treats.If you have left overs from tea & you wish the dog to eat it then mix with dry into its bowl so it learns whats in the bowl is dinner. Some cavies can go days without eating,many poodles can also be fussy eaters & try there owners patience

For the long daches & setters i use Wahl straight & wahl thinners. $20 scissors wouldnt do the job & wouldnt leave the desired finish required

What diet did the breeder recommend?? What breed of dog is the pup?

"so annoyed because I was originally told the wrong weight to aim for- or so it seems?" Unfortunately people need to use there own commensense & if the dog looks fat it is fat so you adjust appropriately. Ideal weight is what many breeds do have but it doesnt mean everydog will meet this its up to owners to look at there dog & feed it the right amount for it to be correct weight. If you know your dog is over weight why would you keep feeding it up???You cant blame others if you notice a weight issue with your dog. Decrease the portions & make sure if the dog is getting snacks or extras that the food portions are also adjusted for any treat. Many people do feed the right amount as suggested by the brand but many people then give added treats which over do the balance.

rarely do i use pin brushes even on my long coats.I use mason pearson or plush puppys soft brush range. Some pin brushes are so harsh on the skin i would never use them.A good quality slicker is very gentle on the skin plus does an excellent job brushing through a coat. We use slickers alot with the grooming business & on the schnauzers coat plus a combo comb

but that's for a c7, is total over kill unless you live in a high risk area. agree though with whoever said it, Australia is very behind in regards to vaccinations and the damage they do. Yes but very few people will titre test so the reulst is people who either dont vaccinate at all or have no idea there dog isnt covered & then it doesnt take long for the diseases to rear again. Tetanus was rampant in a country town last year why,because no one vacc. We do yearly & in over 20 plus years have never had issues,whelping,pregnancy etc etcNever ever had a dog react,some pups we sold did but they went against our advice & had C7 plus the yearly heartworm The people who seem to have major issues are the ones who also now use the heartworm & often get it done on the same day or vets who use C7 in areas that dont need it.

You have to use commensense. Socialing happens daily but when the pup comes home it must be given the chance to adjust to its new home,owners etc etc. If it doesnt trust its owners it wont matter how much you socialize it. "We have started training already and have done heaps of socialisation to dogs, power tools, trains, mowers etc all in the first week.. Was this too much?" yes i believe it was way too much. Trains?? seriouslt these are big frieghtening things & until a pup has accepted the smaller things in life a train would be so overwhelming.The noise,vibrations. We walk our pups done couples of houses & back at that age.We spend alot of time sitting out the front just allowing the pups to hear/see whats going on & encouraging its eagerness to explore but its done slow & steady.When the new owners pick there pup up we stress how important the first week is for the pup to simply settle.It is the key time to get pup to learn its new yard,where its slepping,who the new family members are.7 days go so quickly so you have spent more time getting it out then letting the pup now who you are. We still encourage safety with socializing,some people are happy to take high risks where not one of those but you can alot at home & in there vicinity of home to ensure your pups thrives. Over walking can do more damage on joints & createt life long probs that the dog suffers unneeded. Take baby steps because you get good results in moderation,over do it & you can get the same results as undersocializing

On the long coats i just use the simple plush puppy brush not the bore bristle. Dont think the more you spend the better the result. The key to a good show coat in dachies is the hand stripping,blow drying correctly & using the right product for the dogs coat ,that may mean dilurting a product or using it neat or sometimes mixing/matching

Every dog is different & whether they still have good hearing & smell is also a big factor. The biggest problem is the owners,they fuss them even more which takes away what confidience they do have. We have had a number of blind dogs & what we find works is using carpet runners to get in/out of house,make sure you walk them via the carpets at all times dont carry. Water bowls place a few around but again place on a mat . If the dog can still hear use your feet ,stomp when you walk so the dog can follow the sound & feel the vibrations & above all lots of praise when she has succeeded to going outside but dont pick up the dog needs to walk the route as much as possible. What we find important is the summer months the dog needs to learn the ropes so if it gets disorientated outside they dont end up with heat stress . Ours have the doggy door access & there own fully covered yard so if they get a tad lost there always protected. If it was extremely hot then we left them in the kitchen Luckiliy we worked from home. You will find your dogs nature will dramactically change, our current blind girl has after 5 yrs of total blindness hit a purple patch & is struggling with her routines of life. The dog will bump into things but you need to patrol your house at ther level from a blind dogs point of view & ensure anything that could cause damage when walked into id either shifted or fixed

Knowing murdoch it will be allergic to everything & they will say feed it roo & potatoe & then say $1000. Hills would be the last food to give to a skin issue dog. Fox mange can cause issues like that. Living in Kalgoorlie & given the many weird places you can go walking i would be wondering where she walks.

The long haired dachies i showed/groomed we bathed in Pantene but the finishing result was the blow drying. Sunsilk was also good on the longs coats

Its common & some bitches it can be really bad.One bitch that i handled suffered so badly we ended up mating her earlier than planned to hopefully reduce the prob.It did help but she was retired earlier than planned from showing as it affected her coat each time etc etc. Some get over it quickly with minimal signs

It will depend on what vaccine the breeder gave at 6 weeks. We in 20 odd years have never given the 16,20 boosters actually dont now many that do. Some 6 week vacc do follow a programme but with all our pups we stick to the good basics as pups. We then will look at the options for the 12 month booster The 3 yearly vacc has been around for a while now

Being a breeder means you have expenses & no matter where you live you make arrangements to put yourself out & travel . If your a reg breder then you haveto follow the COE set done by Vicdogs about selling pups

Too many dogs can upset the apple cart not everyone likes to be part of a gang

I would dare say the pups first experience of being placed out alone in the courtyard was for a few hrs not a few mins. They need to whilst home allow pup to spend more time outside whilst there still there so pup can be weaned to what is expected.Small doses & confidience building to being independant go a long way. The pup doesnt now & when suddenly its left for a long period it most likely panics.

You can also buy eagle pack from the Chinnerys 9455 1249,they bring it in by the container & are used by man yof the dog people

What did the breeder suggest ??

Given that you say it was 20 mins there,30 mins of offleash playing then 25 mins walk home i would safely say that is way to much for a puppy. My large breed pups do no where near that until 12 months

Not a method i would use. With our dogs we have the small few that luv "blowing in the face" which starts the zoomies. This dog may decide this method is a great game. I never hold the muzzle because a pups mouth is very tender/teething & to me that causes unnecessary pain that they may react to more,in hand shyness/face shyness. For us its just a simple,no fuss"No" here plus transferring the dogs attention to something else.The less fuss made & the quicker the focus is placed onto an acceptable activity the quicker it learns

yes but remember he had the small breakout on his thigh area . I had a dog that for 6 months after heavy med treatment coat went from stunning to dry,course,brittle to slowly back again. Until his system was flushed through the meds had effected his coat for a good 6 months before all returned to normal. I would maybe give acidophollous(sp) tablets with his meds to replace the good bacteria in his system. Tablets can do funny things to a dogs system . The extreme humidity we have also experienced lately will also blow coats .