Dogsfevr

We groom/board a few dogs that have had this done & my personnal opinion is they where worse afterwards. There are many alternative treatments i would be doing before this

Maybe it's not the 'best' way but it works and perhaps you should accept that other people are allowed to have different opinions to you. I do respect other opinions but have also been around dogs long enough to now the dog is respecting the can not you & when all is said & done it wont solve the problem long term & thats why i dont agree with it. You cant carry a can around all the time to get the dog to stop & when the dog does play up & no can is available the dog has learnt that it can be a free for all. The dog is a Tentie so you cant change its Prey drive . The only reason it is doing its bad stuff is it knows its higher up in the leadership

"Every time I do it, my dog stops what he is doing and looks like he has been anally probed and he comes over to me and acts like the nicest dog in the world." Rhi & Jak this reaction as mentioned by Deltron is because the dog knows the can is associated to the handler ,so whether it hidden or not the can is shaken & then the handler gives the discipline word so it assocaited the noise with the owners voice of being in trouble. Deltron would be better using "clicker Training" or as mentioned TOT

We showed a blue Grey & he was washed prior to every show with no ill effects.We just used head n shoulders or selsum blue. Dobermanns are very prone to this & it happens alot on show days you suddenly see the scurf coming from everywhere,We use to just use one of those clothes brushes that remove fluff from your clothes or a damp clothe & rub over.

Remember though the dog is learning to respect the can not you & thats where this method doesnt always work.

You also need to consdier the summer heat & a dog house will not be the dogs chose of housing in the extreme heat so you need a set up that provides for both winter & the extreme heat of summer

When you shake the coke can what training do you use?? If you want to show this pup also be aware that the can could create an associtian with being naughty & you get a response you dont want especially around strangers.

I have white dogs & staining is all about maintance & when girls are in season there urine is stronger so you need to do more work. There are a few things you can use to remove it slowly but be aware over doing it can also dry the coat out . I will hydrobath in white vinegar. You can make up a Baking soda paste but this can dry the coat so a good conditioning regime must follow. The EZ groom worked at first but then turned the coat orange. Wash the dog in dishwashing detergent but it must be grren

I have the silver eagle jackets & they are brilliant when used for the right purpose.There not used as awet jacket & you follow the instructions to get the best use.I have long coat showdogs & can not get the coat wet but this product has been super in the real heat.I dont leave them on for the full show & as like you i have an early breed (in summer where night shows so the hottest part of the day)i use them to cool the dog off asap so it can relax & be comfy. In the extreme heat i wrapped it in a sealed bag & placed it in the ice Some have used the mats aswell & said there great.I would only buy silver eagle, As for shows hot water bottles frozen last hours & wrapped in pillow case allow for super cooling.Bunnings if lucky also have extremely large ice blaocks(30cm/15cm) but there hard to come buy these are super too. Be careful what ever you do to not create a humid dog as that will be worse than the heat.

I brush.I use dog toothpaste as no point brushing if there s no product on to assist & protect. I also use the dog toothbrush as it has 3 heads & way easier to do the teeth at the back in one go.I also use the rubber finger brush for the front. I do this 3 times a week plus bones. As mine are showdogs with long coats they dont get alot of chews etc as it can ruin the coat so when they do get them its on bath day & they also wear a sleeve shirt to coner the bib & leg coat

Is the breeder able to assist?? The key is to maintain the coat weekly .he problem with over doing the stripping to quickly is it can be very obvious & of course needs to still blend with the body coat

Was he stripped back bold?/There seems to be alot of undercoat still there . In the after photos he has alot of undercoat still there.Depending on how he has been stripped in the past generally you strip in sections as the head & kneck grow faster than the back.It isnt that hard to do it yourself & depending on what undercoat rake you are using the tool may not be suitable for his coat or to keep rolling it What you need to remember is Gomez coat may still be going through the climate change winter here /summer there but our winters arent as cold so it blows the coat quickly.

The breeder should have given you a diet sheet,vacc card,worming advice etc etc. Given the pup left at 7.5 weeks i presume there not a registered breeder otherwise it was sold under age. I agree with the previous poster get a vet check now. With our pup we encourage all new owners to vet check the pup within 48 hrs. Your pup needs a minium of 3 meals aday but i would look at 4. Diets vary so much but a good puppy biscuit plus raw meast etc . What are you feeding now or what was suggested . If she hasnt been given the puppy milk prior to i wouldnt bother. Our pups get goats milk & dpeneding on what the pups are doing prior to leaving we have either weaned off it it or inform the new owners on that pups food regime as some pups can vary.

We use nail clippers or dremel/ There are plenty of wrong type nail clippers out there that will cause more harm. ACP is a sedative but it should only be considered after consult with a vet & the dog is very healthy.It makes them drowsy .This would only be for an extreme case. The prob with vets/nurses doing the nails is most of them havent a clue either unless there out cold so i would only recommend a vet where it is in the dog best benefit to be knocked out .

As a groomer we find that doing the nails is the easy part its generally the reaction of the dog that is the issue.If there white nails easy peasy but if there black & the dogs really fights you to the point the dog is at risk & the groomer then we have no issues in telling them its a vet job or discuss with your vet about given it an ACP just for the nails & do a seperate visit.(we have never had to do that option) Cutting the quik would be in an extreme case in total nail neglect but we have done so especially in dew claws that have double curled & you cant tell the start from the end . Its important to ensure in neglact nails you have some product on hand to stop the bleeding asap & tell the owners . One of my dogs had its nails cauterized & it was the best thing ever

My dogs sleep on the bed all year but there also showdogs & we spend many times away at caravan parks,motels etc.Generally they sleep in the dog floats & the odd places that will allow the dogs inside they stay in there crates & they accept this very well.The crates are like a second home & when travelling or visiting especially in the very hot weather a crate trained dog is a blessing. I also fly east & stay with rellies for shows & as there elderly my dogs can stay in there crates when its required & all is well For example with the massive bushfires or extreme heatwaves being able to safely house a dog in a crate when these occasions happen is a godsend We where involved in evacutating showdogs this year due to fires & as they where all use to crates (it was very hot & smokey ) the dogs where safely evacuted to peoples home but where crated when needed & the dogs where very relaxed during this traumatic time.

What was the dogs original diet & what treats do you give(schmackos etc etc)?? What breed is Ali??

We use Ferric chloride it seals it instantly

As said if you think this will be the easy way until older think again.Toilet training starts now,what the pup learns now is what they follow through for life " toilet to go whenever she wants." exactly so you achieve no tiolet training at all & to retrain an older dog is not easy. Sleepness nights is part of getting a pup nothing is easy & there is no easy way out for achieving life long results

Not me ,see no benefits in it & you just end up with a dog going silly due to being hungry.

Cavnrott yes i had a brain fart moment should read a good groomer wouldnt clip a cavies coat. Oscamia it sounds like the groomers already clip the top coat & that is why its growing back thicker & fluffier. When you clip a cavies coat you clip the good texture & the undercoat is what is left.The undercoat is what you dont want as thats what grows thick,fluffy & dead looking,no sheen. Evene when you use thinners it still ruins the coat in many ways. For a cavie its simply just stripping the top coat,The coat kings are good but you can use a simple Knit/flea comb & do just a good a job. We clip some off as already said its in the dogs best interests as the owners wont brush but the majority we hand strip but we do trim there feet short & infact the hand stripping is far easier & for the pet owners the coat dries quicker,it easier to maintain because your removing the dead coat that matts which is the undercoat.

Good groomers would clip a cavies coat .There not a clipped coat breed. The fluff is dead coat that needs to be pulled out but if you like the coat you will encourgae that fluffy coat to become worse . The coat king is a stripping tool that will remove all that dead coat & leave you with a lovely shiny cavie coat. I would suggest before you even buy the clippers you understand what you want the dogs to look like. I would contact some cavie breeders & see if anyone can assist you . If you go to the breed pages at the botton & then click on cavalier you will see what a natural cavie coat should look like & is that what you want .Those coats are never clipped & if you clip the dog will never look like them. Infact clipping a cavie coat makes it more hardwork

I think what people need to understand is its not a case of being "dominant" this can ruin a dogs nature. What is required is respect,fairness(people not stirring/creating an unwanted result) & above all consistancy. Be consistant in what you want as a result but most importantly all family members need to apply the same rules.

The other thing to remember is often when the pup nipping starts the humans have started a game that is no longer fun.Make sure that your not starting something .think about when its worse

Personally i would buy a soft muzzle.When the dog is snappy the owners tend to tread with caution,dog nows this & rules the roost.No one wants to get bitten. Once the dog has the muzzle on you have 2 free hands to work with without worrying about being bitten.I can safely say as a groomer if theres any chance of being bitten we will muzzle & the dogs actually become little charmers & the area tha needs brushing is done so easily & quicker that the time spentt hanging onto its face & using one hand. You most certainly need to brush on a table & you MUST have a non slip matt.Grooming shouldnt be a bribery match & generally speaking most dogs arent frieghtened they have just one the battle from an early age or the owners are using the wrong tools or brushing on the ground "At puppy school, we were taught a trick for getting puppies used to grooming. Dante used to bite at the brush etc and I couldn't brush him from the time I got him for about 2 months.' You could brush him he just set the rules & won the battle.Dogs react to what the humans do,most with pups brush them so the dog tries to mouth/bite & all hell breaks lose.Dog sets the rules & the humans become very unconfidient,dog nows this & walks all over them. Grooming should be enjoyable but it isnt a bribery game its something that must be done. It isnt about time as a groomer that is never an issue but its a case of clipping etc can be very dangerous when dogs have no manners or perform over the top .There is a chance of injury to the dog & injury to the groomer whether it be attempted bitting or damage on the joints