Dogsfevr

I dont think they do .What are you wanting to now.There very simple to use

hey no probs but this is the problem vets say one thing,its all very scary. The biggest problem we have come across is most clients(very small majority) who dont vacc dont want to titre test either. As far as there concerned there vet has told them they dont need a yearly booster but the vets also arent telling them that they should be titre testing to ensure coverage is there. When you explain we often take the brunt as they want to board asap & we cant take them with nothing some vets quote a price most refuse to pay it so nothing gets done.The price is evidient buy the DOLERS posting here so much variation A number of vets are using the 3 yrly option but surprisingly very few mark the cards correctly so we again have come across confused owners as to what there dog has had. We inform our clients of what the vets(surgery) responsibility is & the greater majority go back & ask there vet whats the deal & things are sorted & it gives the surgery a wake up call. I think most boarding kennels would have a good list of vets which are serial offenders in the "not doing it right area" The cards are getting smaller & more fancier so some claim that info doesnt fit .Thast there prob not those paying the bill who are entitled to The problem is your dog may not react there but could in the next few days & that label is so important. Hopefully with time things will be sorted so everyone knows where they stand . We like many kennels board dogs who have had luekemia,cancer & all sorts of nasties where you have to work with the client,vet as to the dogs status & the current vacc status

I never follow the pack data because each dog is different .What it recommends is often weight to much but for some not enough. Are you adding food to the dry or straight out dry?

I believe most get there 12-15 month booster & then test after that.

They are trying to promote a national COE for boarding kennels aussie wide. The kennel council has nothing to do with it. Kennels are bound by the animal act & there state local council .For example in WA each council has different regs on kennel buildings ,how many dogs per run etc etc. If PIAA get what they want then it will affect the industry dramatically & yes there should be grave concerns The vaccs is a personal choice but the animal welfare act does have a section for kennels etc etc which outlines the practises kennels should use. Many are heading down the titre road BUT as you said There is one of the issue,do you test yearly,before boarding etc etc many questions that some wont give a definate answer & sadly living a world where people sue at a drop off the hat one has to be very sure of where they stand

True, Settrlvr. But are the kennels approaching the kennel authority to review and perhaps amend the CoE to keep up with the latest? Well at present there is alot of unknown .PIAA are trying to get a national thing with the RSPCA. Most are very much against this because there list of what they want doesnt meet each states local council regs nor meet each state or areas needs. Mos tof the boarding orgs have certainly had meetings etc etc but when it comes to the fine line of who will agree to what they all tend to say "i dont now where you would stand" so it really gets confusing when no one when push comes to shove will back up what the say. Getting the govt law to change the animal act isnt easy because they too need to have something in black/white to meet the animal husbandry act. Yes alot of kennels accept titre & it really is at there own risk & it only takes one bad apple to complain & who you know what happens,the poor kennel owner pays the price. The problem is owners dont understand vaccs as it is.If you polled most they are under the belief that a dog vacc is covered & will never get any disease whether that be parvo,tetanus of canine cough . Most kennel owners have bore the brunt of a dog owner whose dog has got canine cough in there care & been threatened with being sued,reported & the list goes on.Most in a small number of cases wont accept there dog is the carrier or that dogs actually carry the virus for well over half the year before it shows symptons & this is why the canine cough is actually only good if done 6 monthly. There was specialist in this field from europe who did a talk & was very interesting for kennel owners . in the QLD COE for the boarding kennel assoc i think it states that vacc must be done 6 monthly but i could be wrong. It really is a tricky area. So many vets are slack as it is with vacc cards.alot dont put the serial sticker on the card ,in some cases we are picking up vaccs used that are already expired which is what this label tells use plus batch number etc if theres an issue. Many dont even clearly state what has been used. It really is frustrating

People should also make themselves aware of the wording in the animal act for boarding establishments. Whilst many say kennels should we are bound by govt law regs to run these establishments which havea COE that we must follow.

Not true at all.It is at the kennels discretion what type of vacc they accept & what they dont accept.

Aparently kennels are supposed to accept titers

Diet will be a tricky one but bear in mind via the meds etc etc he will most likley blow his coat anyway & it could remain a tad off until its all out of his system. The food wont mature him ,maturity has to do with the lines & the individual dog.With my large breed showdogs the slower they mature the happier i am. You often find those dogs who arent old early live a good healthy age. You see some goldies that look so old at 4/5. I am currently using EP at present do to a big growth spurt in my young dog.His coat isnt as great on this but im happy to weigh up the evils at them moment. I feed all my adult coated dogs pro plan sensitve skin & stomachs & found is superb for there coats plus raw etc etc. When my boy is ready he will be switched over but he has also done a massive puppy coat change so i have to take that into consideration with his coat condition. His cot looks good in the photo for the tye he has

I would be buying a grass toilet pad .Dogs do like to sniff about before going to the toilet ,that is a dog . Even down the track whilst dogs will hang on forever if can help create UTI infections so pup needs to have a spot that is his to toilet in at any given time without waiting & the same applies when hes older.Dogs cant hang on to suit us . Whilst our pups start at 6 weeks being paper trained the minute they experience lawn they are off & will hang on to go on the lawn compared to there paper. Patience will be a virtue & some dogs dont like to pee in front of company so its a fine line between teaching them outside to toilet & using the same spot. Personally even though hes 11 weeks if the grass is that close i would be taking pup out & teaching it to pee quickly & empty out on the grass. Whilst pup may have been paper trained with the breeder also most likely experienced grass & used both as toilet spots

A little lady we breed is featured in the canine news for the state obedience trials

"When she had her intial vet check the vet advised how uncommon it was for dogs to react to spot on flea treatments, " It is very common but most vets wont see it or admit it . One of the worse is frontline for hot spots/burning

some people intentionally keep there dogs fat so they wont be as active,have meet many a person with this idea . Be diplomatic but truthful.I would sooner hurt someones feeling by being truthful & upfront.The way i see it is they have been made aware that there dog has an issue whether it be human created or medical & the long term future & vet bills & $$$. The sad part is many vets wont address the issue & some owners are simply blinded by the obvious. I remember one clients dog we groomed for years , a oversized cocker but weighed in at nearly 22kg .It was impossible to groom .we would always educate them why losing the weight was so important,congratulate them when the dog was losing weigh & looking good. In the end the dog didnt lose much weight & they never stopped whinging about the vet bills & the fact there dog has bad arthritis & also did both cruciate s from attempting to jump.All issues we covered with them,we spent alot of time with them about an easy diet for weight loss because many dont want to spend much or go out of there way. I have to say we board & groom alot of very fat/obese cavaliers with health nut owners My English Setter weighs 13 kg more :cool:

When it flares up are his back feet yeasty?? The reason i ask is often dogs will scratch there ears ,the feet then end up with bugs so whilst treating the ears it is passed back & forth via the feet.

Floppy ear doesnt equate to ear infections. I have owned breeds with folded ears for ever & never get ear issues & rarely wash them out. Agree with Ellz,consider your diet & also make sure you understand the actual infection. Does your dog swim.when you wash do you get water done there. Do you disinfect your ear pluckers??

The only safe way is to have sep areas. Your chooks can roam in a well fenced area & all live happily ever after

Remember this is a lab .A water dog,spraying a lab in the face is like inviting it to have a party if your expecting a different result. "I disagree with settrlvr and wouldn't allow one of my dogs to put their mouth around any person, regardless of breed" We can agree to disagree but given my dogs dont have any social issues & are handled by juniors in the show ring,on display every weekend at shows,royal show & agi shows where the very young to old touch & have photos i can safely say my dogs behaviour is AI . My eldest sat happily with my 93 yr old grandfather .My dogs now whats expected & what the social rules are. Every tom,dick & harry at shows have happily held my dogs & will happily hold them again. I deal with dogs every day,people who have used some of these methods with no success at all because they have lost the simple common sense approach & ended up so confused they give up. people give up because it ends up so technical We have no issues with these same dogs because we are patient,consistent & stick to simple rewards & expectations for age. Labs are often the worse,The owners have made it into a war & the dogs have one. My dogs are allowed to mouth me on my terms,there gundogs & im happy to accept that i own a breed that is mouthy & i will not punish them for something that is natural but i will happily train them to a happy compromise.

Hes 10 weeks old & a gundog.A very mouthy breed by nature.Be patient . It sounds like he has no clue what you want .in 2 weeks you have tried all those methods but the pup doesnt now why You have to be consistent & stick your routine. Im not a believer of holding the muzzle of a teething pup nor flipping them.It achieves nothing but more frustration & pain for the dog. Your probably expecting the pup to understand more than it knows & that is where the frustration always starts & at this time your body language becomes a game for the dog. I have gundogs.they are all mouthy till the day they die.It doesnt worry me because you cant change what there meant to do BUT you can educate them to be gentle. My current youngster has progressed from being a tad hard to a gentle carry,he will walk my hand around anywhere when i allow it,he also understands that no means no but he is just 9months. My nearly 9 yr also carries my arm around or anything that i allow .. I think you need to go back to basics & work on small steps so the dog understands.if it is getting really over the top then use the crate,i do.The key is placing pup in not for discipline but simply to "settle". Mine will happily hope in & curl up for which they are rewarded for that behaviour. Also consider any cross signals given ,you cant allow one thing but not allow another ,pups understand yes quickly because it gets a response but when confused will either play up more because again it gets a response even if not desirable . Obviously there is a set time that you know this will happen so be pre armed.Have food/toy reward ready & use this "excitement" stage as a quick training session

"If she gets extra food during the day (chicken wing/ treats/ scraps) then the next meal is less as I know she won't want as much to eat." If your dog is being picky & not in a set eating pattern then treats & scrapes are a no go.Treats are solely for training/reward. The more treats/scraps she gets from humans the more inclined she will be to seek them out for something better than whats in her bowl. Feeding time needs to be that eat it or lose it.I would be placing her in an area that is less stimulating because at present she is getting into a routine of fun .She is getting a reaction to her behavior which she feels is normal. If she loses some weight it wont be the end of the world but its important for all family members to stick to the training regime.If your picking the bowl up to give latter no one can give her treats.There is no point taking her bowl away if everyone gives her a bit her & there, She needs to learn that her meals are in her bowl & feed time is that.Whilst she is still only a pup this is the age for setting a good feeding routine for life. In our house all food is eating in like 10 secs ,its hoover heaven . You also need to consider she is teething so her gums could be sore which can play havoc with wanting to eat BUT even so she can stil learn that meal time isnt a game. Does she leave tthe bowl if there is a certain food in it than others?? For example does she eat the sardines or tend to not want them??

yep our eye specialist also says use human dry eye drops once a confirmation of the problem has been done.At first we use the medicated stuff but once controlled we use viscose gel .the gel is better as it lasts longer in the eye. A good eye specialist is very open minded

The protein is actually the same as most other brands . The only one for large breeds with a lower protein level that is easy to source is EP.The selects is higher in protein

This is exactly why all daogs should learn to be crate trained I also agree with staff n Toller ,find a good phsyio because rest wont cure all.

He has no coat to clip off. Dogs will feel the heat coat or not.Some just feel it more like humans.As your boy has a black saddle he will absorb the heat a tad more but that will happen short aswell. Just keep brushing As long as the dog is a good weight,has good shade facilities,plenty off water then all will be fine. I have very hairy dogs & they do very well in summer .