Dogsfevr

Depends which vet you used. For example Murdoch university charge mega bucks for x rays & yes you dont own them & to buy copies is $$$$. All the other vets we use we get given them no questions asked & the last set i had done was given to me on disc so i could just email. The vets we use dont want to keep them as there space wasters

I now many go to puppy preschool but i see more people with issues afterwards & the reason being is many(not all) encourage exuberance & free for alls & the owners arent involved in training them when to switch off/on.They learn that being over the top is correct at such a crucial age. I think its also safe to say at present your frustrated.The dog nows this & your angry at the dog for something that isnt its fault. It sounds like the pup is running the household & you have no idea how to handle or control your dog & seeking help is a great start. Once your shown techniques you will realize how easy things can be . The most important thing you need to look at is your pups daily activity level & this doent just mean exercise.Some breeds need more mental stimulation & crave to learn. So what is your dogs daily routine. Never lower yourself to the dog level. Also remember as much as your frustrated it isnt the dogs fault .We all now dogs are only as good as the owners & some owners just need more help to achieve the right result. Also ask yourself how are you around your dog.Are you someone who is boring ,confusing,interesting. Often a boring person loses the dogs attention very quickly.When communicating you need the dog to want to hear you & listen.You need to stand upright & use your voice to allow the dog to understand good,bad .Your voice is you best tool to gain respect. Some people talk so quietly & repeat the same commend 15 times & the dog still doesnt listen so you need to address why & try new methods to make yourself more interesting than the distraction. When i was trialling for example i had adog that was ball obsessed.It took enormous self control not to chase any ball laying about so when practising i used her balls as distraction & rewards. He down stays involved me playing ball,sitting with her balls & her reward was her ball.I would do figure 8 around her balls & get my mum to squeak the balls whilst doing offleash work.I had to be more interesting than that one item she cherished. It was her tool & she was a brilliant worker . Some dogs work for sheep skin.food,voice,simple pleasure so consider what item she really values & use that when training. If you have video camera also vido yourself interacting with your dog,it is amazing what people see & dont realise

Mini schnauzers excel in all aspects. Std schnauzers are also good but require a special owner to live with them.

Yep $70 bucks your made. You either charge 470to hand strip the coat which means no brushing of legs or double that for a full groom. Your being used

Cranberry tablets .I use the ones that also have acidophiles(sp) in them. They helped big time ,even washing/dunking his penis in colloidal silver helped .

In my boys case he never hump BUT because the girls where in heat he was obviously more aware of his equipment. His licking was his issue the more he licked the more it caused issues.We where told by the repo vet that if he had a mating that the erection would cause the blood vessels to burst more & whilst it wouldnt harm him we would have to be very aware of changes because the more that burst the longer it takes to heal & obviously semen with blood in it isnt ideal. The problem i found when this happened was wehn he urinated it obviously would sting so he would then try to lick to soothe the sting but make the issue worse. He had 2 chronic cases where he needed injections to nock it off but his where at the top of the scale. I found in his case the signs where easy to tell. Coat change was the first sign,he would get alot of undercoat & it looked crap,not soft/silky. I would have to bath his area am/pm to wash the pee off but not using shampoo/con as this would irritate it .His penis would swell & be very red so i would also pop him out to check(pays to now your dog pee pee ) The cleaner it was the happier he was & the quicker it healed.A right royal pain with long coats but just dunking the penis in water helped greatly(just tie the hair up & dunk). I did spray not on but near crappy stuff to stop him licking & it worked but maintenance was the key. The humping i worry more about doing there backs in plus its a right royal pain. Did you wash James before he went.He may smell off your girl

Also remember rome wasnt built in a day.Your pup has been home for a short period.It sees you as its new playmates.You need to be patient & consistent. We have never had issues but find the more you make off it the more fun its becmes,dogs will crave any attention even if there being told off because generally they get down to there level & its "all about them". In out house its no fuss .It works very well & we have gundogs who have very mouthy.they are allowed to be mouthy on our terms & it works very well

Oh dear . I would be contacting the vet that treated the dog. The breeder should have given you a vet report on the current status & should have informed you more of what the ongoing status is. Like others have said its a very common issue in peis & you wont get cover so it will be an expensive road ahead. What does your breeders contract state about the pups condition??? Have you phoned them asking about the eyes not opening??

I was just wondering why you didn't collect from your dog and desex him instead of him suffering badly for 7 years? You say it's not harmful but then said he suffered? Did I miss something? Because he was show dog & desexing wouldnt fix his problem. Spaying doesnt resolve every issue He didnt hump he simply licked his penis which turned into an infected penis which would bleed as the blood vessels popped,because they popped blood would be there & he would lick to clean which made it worse. After spending many years on high dose cranberry & the right meds for the time the problem was fixed & has never re occured & yes we still have girls in season. This dog never hump,never gets a hard ons ,runs with 3 entire males & lives with 11 other dogs. BUT any dog can pop the blood vessels if there more predisposed .He was & as i was very careful to inspect his penis during the time i always new what his status was. Yes he did suffer ,it was very sore And yes this was all treated with a repo specialist. The implant was also considered & it was also decided that it wouldnt fix his issue either in relation to the other issues. It was decided that the way we dealt with it was the best for him & that once one of the bitches came in heat That we started his anti biotics then. A very manageable issue BUT if not taken seriously could become a very hard one to fix. We have 17 dogs & no humpers here.

I doubt it when it says both dogs are entire.

Harsh settrlvr very harsh :p It was a spell check to see if you where all reading. You passed . Went to stomp the other night

We use Oyster 10 blade. It's used on his chin, neck and tops of ears only. We use thinning scissors under his ears, around his feet (remove the hair underneath and between the toes). For his hairy front legs, we don't shave them as that will wreck the coat. We use a mars comb to remove the dead hair and a stripping blade. Obviously, the grooming of our dog is different to what you would do as Henschke is a show dog. I'm sure others with pets will be able to also advise. We groom the pets the same way. Hand stripping all the way.The top of the head we also hand strip. Front legs we strip using the slick n easy stone

I have a dog who has suffered issues with his penis for many years.His isnt due to humping but when we have girls in season he will lick it. His gets so badly infected that it requires very high dose meds & he will have pools of blood around. His is a result of the blood vessels popping.Whilst not harmful it affects his coat dramatically9falls out,fluffy,dry) & became a very ongoing issue. He is 9 this year & suffered badly for 7 years.The last 2 years he hasnt had a break out thank god. We where able to maintain for the greater par but had to be very diligent at the first sign & treat asap. We did natural for maintenance but when it was an issue meds. The meds used does affect there sperm levels at that time.Also if he was used at stud he would have to go on meds afterwards . I would highly suggest you stomp him because if he has reached the stage he has then it sounds like the blood vessels are popping & many vets dont treat it adequately or correctly many just say let it go but if you dont pay attention the flare ups can end up worse & worse The other thing is constant humping can do both dogs backs

I feed pro plan but the only one i use is the Salmon. The other varieties i didnt like the result & found the maintance to be horrid on the coats. Beef even if only every 2 weeks for some dogs can still be a nightmare. If i had a dog with a crappy coat then that would be the forts thing i would not feed for atleast 2 months. Shampoos each to there own also make sure your washing i out properly & as Rysup said you need to condition.I doubt Pet barn would have a clue what to wash a dog in. What does the breeder of your dogs suggest?

BARF doesnt guarantee this What time do you feed??Sometimes if the dog is feed to late it sits heavy in the stomach & they wake up crook. Not every dog can stomach high quantities of meat especially if it has alot of fat.If she is throwing up bile(the yellow stuff) then thats a sign that something isnt agreeing. When it comes to fish i have dogs that do well on tuna but get chronic runs on sardines so they dont get sardines. I never feed beef due to the high incidence of reactions plus the crap results in the past. I feed eagle pack hollistic giant to my young dog simply for growth but now hes 13 months i have swapped to my preferred choice,He ate it but not with great joy,it would give him soft stools & his coat was crap. The one you used gave our other dogs the runs but they thrive on the power formula. We use to different brands here or what ever the individual dog does best on. All ours like many dogs get a combo of dry & raw(we use mutton only,chicken necks,fish (either shark,tuna) & many other add ons & all our dogs thrive & live very healthy long lifes. One of our breeds has a very high incidence of pancreatitis so we must be careful what we feed.

I would look at your diet. I too feed pro plan salmon. What dry do you use?? As i say i would stop the beef mince,I find on my dogs the coats become horrid if any form of beef is given. I use mutton.

Its called habit.It has been allowed so it seems normal. You now the up will sneak off & pee so you need to be one step ahead. The routine is.Pup outside,pups pees,pu inside for treat then pup sneaks off & pees. Many people dont want to stand outside so any pee is considered good enough but for pups who get distracted or now the reward just requires a basic squat it can all go pear shaped. Take pup out ,allow to pee,Good puppy come inside & then go straight out again.

If it looks like dead coat i would imagine ther is dead coat there. what sort of brushing do you do? What do you wash him in? I would scrape the beef mince

Im with rebanne we go chiro /bowen first.

Sounds pretty good.The only thing i would say is i wouldnt suddenly do running at 12 months unless the pup is in good condition & even then i would take 2-3 months to build up.Longer distance no issue if it has been on a good exercise programme. Agility training yes & now for the simply reason,You can do weavers,/tunnel many in good clubs have al earner course where things arent full scale but a stepping stone till latter.Certain pieces can be trained to like even walking through atyre jump because again its confidence. For example i now top agility people who have the see saw made into puppy size so they learn to use it early with no fear but it isnt going to damage . It just using common sense of what things are safe as pups but are good to learn.

you dont have wandering dew in the yard or any other horrid plants?? Yep vet trip & give the breeder a call.They now there pup the best

write down everything. I would sooner as a breeder be asked something stupid than nothing at all. Have your list & basically ask the breeder if they can give you a run down on the parents.pups & health.That should cover alot of what your thinking about. Then ask about diet,vaccs & any other breed specific things they recommend.

Many also use a flashlight to train.They use it similar to a clicker/marker but of course this they can see.

Given the bred is a cavie the first thin i would want to see is current heart certificates for both parents.If they dont heart test dont buy(you can ask this before you visit ). *So you want to see heart clearances *view the bitch *male isnt always possible to see *Ask about any conditions.contract agreements. *read up about the breed & note things that your not sure of & ask. Just talk & things will get covered.presuming you hav eresreached the breed already & now all its good/bad points talking will be easier than you think

im a believer is some cases that quality of life is better than pain. If shes on cartrophen is because shes in pain, She should have been on gluco etc from the time she was diagnosed I would also be taking her to a bowen person.Legg perthes does take its toll on the other muscles when ther limping so the soreness could be her back .