Dogsfevr

Whippy results Will BOB RUIG Rush DCC Donna won baby in grp. I left straight after inter in show

big dogs here & a doggy door & no security issues

I think both the breds are known for toilet training issues.I agree go back to basics & also have a serious thought on what has changed in the last 3 months, Is there a certain time of the day she does it more,early/midday/late/any time.

Has she always done it or more so since her injury?? Most of our larger dogs walk about ,no big deal its whats comfy for them

Grooming is about respect in all aspects,if the dog respects & above all understands what you want grooming is very easy. Dogs will wiggle BUT there is a fine line bewteen allowing a pup be a pup to enjoy the grooming process & bad habits setting in. Depending on the obedience level of your pup use your lead as part of the tools. Go to a neutral area to brush until your skill level has improved.If you wish you can use a matt as its "space" for grooming,the matt is where it must stay. Give the dog the command "stand/stay/wait" what ever your word is & then proceed to brush,no fuss,calmly & quietly.If pup plays up & use your voice tone to firmly re establish your commands/if brushing on the ground tand up straight ,dont continue to bend to its level whilst its playing because this is "fun".just stand up ignore say your word & calmly brush again. Grooming should also mean checking ears/feet(for grass seeds)

grooming isnt about bribing but teaching for the long term. All ours are taught to stand on the table & groomed from day 1.I have showdogs that even at 8 weeks may require an hr grooming & they accept it very easily . Be very fair but firm in your commands,dont confuse or over talk. Stand means stand,lay means lay Be confidient & consistent & pup will go ahead in leaps & bounds very quickly Pups will mouth but a simple no & keep going. Make sure the tools aren,t hurting,many people use slickers or brushes that are very harsh & will create reactions. We never attempt grooming when sleeping or tired because it doesnt teach what you want ,if the dog is sleepy & just wants to lay down & you accept it can be an issue if standing is really what you want. 99% of mine stand but my latest has been taught to lay & stand . Its always funny as a full time groomer the things people claim there dog cant do .It comes down to the method & the way its down & sometimes seeking help on technique & tools is the trick . Grooming a a table is also the most important thing no matter what size the dog is tables can be made from giant to toy & are cheap to buy

How'd you figure that out? Pay the kids to do them

The dog will let you do it plain & simple.Place dog on table or similar area(make sure non slip,place lead if you need extra control or that better grasp) & simply proceed,dont piss fart about just get in/out & finish.

What will be your plan if the dog barks non stop?? If people are allergic ?? The dog wants to toilet??? Hair will be covered over who ever has to hold(black suit collie hair ) What if the dog freaks out & the handler cant cope or the dog doesnt like the handler you pick?? Are you expecting children at the service??? I guess as already said it comes down to how prepared you are to deal with all the things that could go wrong & how much involvement you & your partner wish to take if the dog plays up. I think having a dog there can be a great thing but it can also be a nightmare & you are hoping to only get married once . Have you started training her to deal with the occasion?/ & how is she going.Remember her being overwhelmed could also ruin her for life if she gets frightened .She is only 5 months so a very crucial age

excellent,its cheaper to buy from the US anyway but was curious

has anyone purchased the walls from Great Rugs?? Was wondering if there the same brand as the ones catonam sell??

Contact your breeder

Have feed Tuckertime for nearly 20 years to our showdogs & kennel dogs with great success. My guys also get raw added. We only use the Garlic variety

We find Malasab on minis horrid. We dont use it or recommend it

becks we have a poor selection of ear stuff able to be imported

Besides the chicken necks i would change her dry & 4 legs, Hills is very high in wheat/corn. We breed/show minis & see this kind of infection in many mini,s & generally its diet related.most have gone away but generally its a case of controlling what is there. Your vet may not be the best for diet(reality is they should discussed this with you already as to why she has bad ears) Our favourite tool for yeasty ears is human 4% peroxide(first aid section of the shops) We tell our clients to wipe the ears with it & there feet,the problem with bad ears is they will scratch as it itches,they transfer the yeast to there feet & it goes back & forth & hard to budge then you have sore feet aswell.

We are forever explaining to clients that what they ask for is what they truly want or even meant. many ask for something that has a very different meaning & many groomers wont ask or make sure they will just do what has been asked.

If her ears are over grown the drops will be useless,they can pluck & clip now to allow the air to get down. What was her history prior too you getting her?? The smelling could be her ears as you say , Do you now what she was feed before you got her?? Is she black or S/P?? Do her ears sorta look like a cauliflower??

Do you get her ears plucked fully when groomed?? Is her ears groomed regularly or are they over grown?? Check her feet & are they sore & yeasty?? It can also be a diet thing.

Yep it may or may not come back,Colour can sometimes be a factor & how well the coat had been worked on prior to being clipped off. Not sure what you mean by (thinned out) to ne it means using thinning scissors ?? You need to seek a good advice & work on he coat yourself,weekly stripping the top coat in a cocker of that age is a must

Cropped dogs cannot be shown in main classes BUT can compete in veteran,stud or exhibition class(ie at Dobe specialities) Dew claws arent an issue,we remove ours

Yep you need to bomb the house sooner than latter especially with the weather warming up.the longer you leave it the bigger the problem you will have

Yeah... I totally understand what you're saying, but surely it's not unreasonable to expect a pro to be able to handle my ~30kg lab? I have little doubt that this is what she did... But it's their job... I work in tech support, if I have a customer who's a bit difficult, I don't hang up on them... Know what I mean? If it is so easy you wouldnt have to seek help.The groomer did there job it seems you have no idea about a lab coat & the shedding it does Labs shed all year by the bucket loads,if it hasnt been done properly for along time you can only get so much out fist go,Now the dog has been bathed & brushed through it will shed more for the next month as the coat has been stimulated to fall out,its now up to you to start brushing . People seem to have little respect for what a groomer has to tolerate & think its such an easy job. Grooming a lab should be easy but an untrained lab that has no clue isnt easy to handle & even the best of groomers will struggle with adog that has no concept of whats expected. Groomers are there to groom,not also teach obedience,manners & whats expected in 3 hrs. Your dog is 22 months old & you still have trouble brushing yet you expect a groomer to perform miracles in 3 hrs. Yes the groomer may have given up a tad simply BECAUSE you dog wasnt dealing well,It comes a point even as a groomer that you cant push the ability of the dog in one hit.An overwhelmed dog is very hard work & an experience that isnt pleasant for them either plus having to build a trust in the person attempting to do all the things they wont allow there owner to do.

This is a crucial age & if your pup is already showing signs of soreness then yes i would separate. Leaping & jumping can be all to much for a dog with muscle soreness in the back that needs to heal. What did your Bowen person say regarding activity level?? Bum high can be a stage or it can be forever. If the back is sore stacking will be hard work,generally they will brace/pull backwards & fig it because its uncomfy.

If your Bowen person is good & this what they said then you need to do strict follow ups,my young boy went every 2 weeks /monthly until 12 months. He also didnt play with other dogs until his back muscles had settled & strengthened. Having said that he had a great topline just being a winter baby during a bad winter didnt have the muscle tone that even the breeder was happy with so the silliest of injuries meant he tweaked easily,not now though. My guys attend Bowen 4/6 weeks every year. Be guided by your breeder though who knows how there line develops & also the topline your pup had prior to coming to you.There knowledge & advice is worth listening too. As pointed out if bowen fixed the issue then great but it wont fix bum high Having said that if i thought hips where an issue i would get x rays done just to simply now where i stood.