Dogsfevr

Im presuming your using a repo vet so they would have clearly explained the best timing & timing may mean not in the morning but ready in the afternoon .Good repo vets tell you the whole package 
Are you using chilled.frozen .

Days are irrelevant for AI  numbers count even breed quirks can be considered .
I know plenty of AI done around days 20/25 with good success

On 11/12/2024 at 6:00 AM, persephone said:

Good move, but what happens to all the racing/breeding dogs now ?

I gather most will be PTS  because people think thats a better choice & apparently find that thought process easier to live with aslong as they cant run in circles.

Funny part is for many many many years the biggest source of blood donors to save dogs lives are also Greyhounds so people dont have an issue when there dog needs blood transfusion to have it from a Grey but want the industry banned but dont really care what the future is for the dogs .

Im gathering lure coursing or Sprintdog isnt an option with the NZKC dog sport events 

On 12/12/2024 at 6:50 AM, Rebanne said:

@sandgrubberI no longer have contacts but are there any showbred greys in NZ? There has only ever been a handful in the past. 

When NSW tried the same thing there was quite a few showbred greys in the state and no distinction made.

Yes there are still show bred there & i certainly hope the NZKC fights hard for the show people because yes that NSW saga was not nice for the Greyhound show folk who got targeted & had to deal with the unknown fear for that period because no one uses there brains.

We always told price first as it was no fun for us to talk to someone on the phone for 30 plus minutes & then hear So sorry thats out of our price range .
 

I will say though we didnt put the price in the ad nor every life detail .
Our ads we simple if needed to be posted .
Puppies available ,health tested, available from  Please phone xyz to discuss further because we would never sell a pup based on the info in a post.

The one then we clearly made important in our ads was the people should clearly have researched this breed & understand it needs professional grooming every 6/8 weeks & weekly brushing so this breed has life long expenses & owner commitment as that was more important to us than price .
In 40 plus years we never did application forms & the questions most ask are nothing more than what you get talking .
Talking to a human weeded out very easily the good,bad & not this breed people .
 

On 24/11/2024 at 9:30 AM, firefly said:

I’d rather have a corgi chase me than a pitty or shepherd 

Your first post a few years back was about being at the point of rehoming a 6 month Sheltie as it was still pooing in your house .

Infact at a dogshow a Sheltie lunged at me walking past & broke skin 
Any dog cross ,pure can be an issue with owners who shouldnt own anything more than a garden gnome 

Dangerous ??
Please show the references to this breed being so dangerous .

So you would want the breeds who do the same/similiar jobs to be banned too .



 

You can buy them in Oz .
There called Happy hoods here and groomers often use them to lesser the noise for hair dryers & the likes but if a dog doesnt want to wear it they just push of easy peasy 

On 12/11/2024 at 9:00 AM, Spottydog0 said:

 

 

When I sell things that aren't cheap I always expect buyers to come into my house to assess me and check I'm genuine and not hiding anything and I do the same. 

So you sell your stuff from your bedroom??
Your happy for strangers to come into your room to ensure your legit??

Im going to safely assume you have a neutral room you sell stuff from & most likely CCTV to ensure your safety .

I mean no sane person is going let let Joe Public just have free range through their house so they can confirm .
I mean anyone telling me that sends Red flags up as im not going to just go into a randoms house if there selling stuff either ,could be a serial killer.

I can safely tell you if wanting to snoop through a home is your thing you will get more no from breeders .
Most breeders do outside ,neutral for meet n greets .Get to know each other & go from there .
All aspects covered in a respectful & responsible manner .
We ourselves did communication before pups where to be viewed & we where old fashioned & did phone calls only as we could learn alot by what was said not written,we never did questionaires as so easy to fudge answers & thats not a tool we base a pup for life to be sold by .
We always ensured contracts,diets ,breed history etc where all covered before any commitment was made .

As a side note a good Dobe breeder in the US was murdered after people came to his home to look at pups,they also stole the pups .
 

 

A dog that is raised solely in the home doesnt equate to better ( yes our pups where home raised ).
A breeder to ensure a pup is well rounded exposes their dogs to all facets of life ,there is more to providing enrichment than being in a house .
We crate train our puppies Why because so many owners fail this area when they need day stays at the vet or after care recovery in a crate  or travel in a crate in the car etc etc.
We feed our dogs in crates because varying age stages ,requirements & meds .
Our pups where taught crate skills 
Each dog is feed in a manner that means we know exactly what is happening.

Our puppies never saw kids & that was never an issue,we dont have other pets which most breeders dont .
Visitors experience within reason ,people seem to think pups just get exposed to everything & anything & you do that with development .
We dont rush to wean the mother & she wont be placed at stress for every Tom,Dick & Harry to visit .
Our puppies went lead trained we start at 5 weeks,grooming table trained from 5 weeks, there play area for enrichment was better than what most parents provided for their own kids & they where where taught life skills like the door gets shut & go learn self independance .
I wouldnt get hung up on one area because unless the whole package is balanced it means nothing.
Health tests should be provided .
As for people inspecting our home NO
All our people visited the pups out the front in a well set up neutral area.Never ever was an issue with any of our puppy buyers bar 2 & those 2 never got to buy a pup of us as their obsession to want to walk through our house to tick the piece of paper was weird ,creepy & crossed the line of information they needed to see.
My home is my private residence ,pups are raised for the first few weeks in my bedroom & then moved to family room.
Depending on breed & litter size common sense will tell you pups need to move to a more suitable area .
Your not going to have 10 GSD till 8 weeks in a small pen in the family room .
So a person needs to think logically about hygenic,safe housing for a  litter of puppies 

As for photos well no sane person is going to post pictures of dirty bedding etc etc so Yes pictures posted are staged .
Also understand that breeders need to comply with their State laws on whelping & raising puppies irrespective of breeder,BYB 
 

3 hours ago, sheena said:

He is an Agility Dog.  She is well known in the agility circuit. I thought he was a short haired border collie, probably in working condition

Working condition shouldnt equate to ribs so visual 

57 minutes ago, Boronia said:

He looks as if he has some NZ Huntaway (without the sticky-up ears) in him

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huntaway

 

We board alot of Huntaways never a skinny one .
Looks like a working border or cross & that is skinny for a dog doing jobs .
Certainly not a good visual for the public .
Would be interesting to know if it has a medical issue 

One who health tests ,breeds for correct breed temperament & ideally knows how to pick the pup that shows the best potential for the role is going to need to be trained for but also be the most suitable match for you to live with & be able to enrich its dog needs .
Borders certainly are not for every person .

As the dog will need to be accredited to be an assistance dog consider touching base with the people you have approached to get the dog through its official journey & what they deem important as part of the selection process to its job role 

On 04/11/2024 at 12:02 PM, ChihuahuaMum said:

Hi Mel

 

I would greatly appreciate the name of the vet you used to debark your dog. We have two Chihuahuas that bark non-stop, despite intensive training, the use of barking collars etc. We've always just put up with it and thankfully lived in a very private home, so it wasn't a big issue for the neighbours. Unfortunately, due to my husbands ill health, we are moving into a retirement village. Due to village rules, we are only allowed to have one dog. We cannot seperate ours as they stress without each other. Nor do we want to live without them, and I'm pretty sure, they don't want to live without us either. We have been permitted to keep them together for these reasons, only providing that they do not bark. That means, we either get them debarked or they can't come with us. We can't cope with the thought of the later! I would greatly appreciate your help Mel. xx

Debarking doesnt stop the noise it just potentially lessens the sound & infact the debark sound can be more annoying .I think  its important  you understand that if moving to a place with strict requirements  & that you still need to address animal management .
Given retirement villages are built so close together & often with shared walls you will need to be very on top of the behaviour 

Get a stuffed dog .
Springers luv their humans .
Springers luv to spring ,Springers luv to be close to there humans.
So what exactly does the dog get to do that the humans like??
What form of human touch is it allowed ??
 

All the vets here who offer in house plans are often double the price for procedures ,meds & products .
They have to make the costs up somewhere.
They generally offer you in the plan monthly flea/tick/heartworm which vary as to whats sent & you dont get a choice or even asked if your dog is product sensitive .
We have had numerous clients on those plans who are Like the consults are free & we are like yes but you pay double to triple on the locked in items & procedures .

6 hours ago, Mairead said:

Maybe keeping depth of colour also depends on depth of knowledge of hair dyes and shampoos.

Colour shampoos do very little .
Dying a red /apricot Poodle would require an owner who should be voted Best hairdresser in the world .
For other colours its simply a case of looking at pedigrees & seeing what is behind the dog .
Once you start diluting the colours then it can affect it greatly BUT you also shouldnt bred for colour to sacrifice more important things .
Depending on countries Red/Apricots & blue just dont have a good gene pool of stellar dogs that are suitable for breeding or the ability to be bred on with .
In Europe the ability to find a wider gene pool for red/apricots is very strong 

I would consider the quality of the colour in the lines plays a bigger factor .
Coat change through the ages will potentially vary the colour at the time .
The same applies to a black thats not bred well colour wise & a blue .
In Europe for example Poodles are shown in colour like Schnauzers .Thus the breeding for a good colour is a different to say Australia where colour may be more limited .
In Australia we dont see the Good Black n Silver Schnauzer colouring we did in the 80/90's.
The colour now is often what we call muddy & not marked well.The silver not silver & the black a poor black as often salt & pepper is in the pedigree.
I see so many pups on facebook listed by some breeders as B/S but blind Freddy can see its not a strong B/S especially when the ears have S/P colouring 
Spaying can affect coat texture & colour .
A good apricot colour is far and few these days & especially one with correct coat texture .

At 9 yeasr i doubt you ll get any benefits for many things that will be pre existing plus the waiting period .
Better as mentioned to put money into a seperate account & the money will always be there if the worse scenario happens with your dog .
I do insure my youngsters up to 15 months then dont bother unless a real issue means keep it .
I have a great vet with a great common sense approach & old fashioned mindset .

Avoid chain vets,look at what your feeding ,how many meals Old dogs like people often do better on smaller multi meals & fat level appropriate .

depending what the outcome was of that $500 it may not be an expensive bill but if you leanrt something to change from it a cheap bill still.
Older dogs come with vet bills 

What ownership.
Microchip?
Papers- which organiization.?

i would not give it for this area.
And actrually dont presume vets will just give it .
We have a few boarding clients who come in with it for thunderstorm fear & fireworks but it isnt handed out like lollies & the dogs need to be watched especially if access outside is allowed & the weather is an issue .

If the dog has true sep anxiety then get the right drugs & the sooner the better so the brain can start thinking more logically whilst the reshaping process is happening .
A barking dog is not fun & the dog may also be doing self harm behaviour whilst their out so its can manifest quickly .
 

I would suggest joining behavioural groups on facebook & asking ,most people frequenting here wouldnt be doing those courses but if its industry based for a career ask where it matters .

Diet is ideal for "pushing " the glands but some dogs need them emptying .
The hair could be sticking it his bum too 

14 hours ago, tdierikx said:

I read the $1800 as being the original $1500 purchase price plus $300 in the week the OP had her. She mentions that the pup required a vaccination, so you can chalk up a good $150 or more on that, depending on which vaccination was given - I think a C5 sits around that price nowadays. The rest could have included various types of other foods the OP tried to feed said pup. There is no mention of worming/flea/tick treatments, but I'm sure the vet probably at least suggested that when doing the vaccination.

 

Regardless any possible "ignorance" on the part of the OP in dealing with this fussy pup, there is no excuse for the breeder or the third party Vicki being downright nasty in some of their messages to her. By all accounts, the pup arrived refusing to eat even the diet provided by the breeder, and the OP made all efforts to find a way to tempt her to eat to no avail, and also sought veterinary advice on the matter... so I would say that she gave her best effort at least, and deserves a little more respect/leeway than she has been given.

 

At this point, the breeder now has both the purchase price AND the pup (and seemingly all the "power")... and the OP is just seeking help to resolve that, as she has neither for her effort/outlay.

 

T.

He said she said which is why no sides should be taken & proof by BOTH parties .
But a breeder if their contract is there does not have to refund asap & can take expenses out if need be & the balance returned & again proof required .
The breeder in the OP words offered a solution ,A new pup & has said return of money on sale which again makes it obvious the OP didnt hand the pup back to see if it would eat as thats not something one would discuss unless returning the dog .

OP in there schedule didnt have pup vaccinated with her Day 5 vet no mention of vaccination .
Im gathering the pup stayed longer with the breeder & required its vaccination irrespective 

No one can answer as it requires both sides story .
You would need to contact the body that deals with goods & services issues in your state .

As for being $1800 out of pocket i would suggest thats not an accurate amount on necessary requirements & your would have to prove all costs if that topic is brought up .I mean no puppy needs 4 outfits & i truly hope you werent dressing this pup up in the 7 days you had it as that would totally overwhelm any new puppy settling in to a new home & routine 
No way would 7 days get to that amount .
Generally speaking a breeder may not offer a full refund that would be based on their sales contract but in this situation we wouldnt straight away & the reason why .
You are returning a dog that for all intents & purposes hasnt eaten for 7 days so would require a vet consult irrespective if you have been to a vet.
Once a vet report was done a copy would be sent to the current owner 
I think based on your heading & the fact you state you returned all the items the breeder would be under the impression you no longer want the dog ,that is how i read the post & then you decided to change your mind ,if not this reads total confusion & i understand why the breeder has decided moving forward what is in the dogs best interest based on i gather many messages .
Before even considering rehoming the dog it would need from the breeder a full vet check ,the dog may require retraining .
Im not taking sides But puppies have been returned to breeders in not the same condition it left even after a week.
Breeders may then refund what expenses have been taken out & again the breeder would have to prove they are necessary .

I would likely say posting all the details on here is not the smartest thing to do especially as the breeder most likely will have been informed & made a copy so anything posted here would be part of any claim if you went down that path .
 

Your Sate bodies website is full of information .
You will get your journal & you start entering shows .
Highly recommend doing some handling classes & going to watch shows & your breeder should have informed all about this