KitKat

Oh i whole heartedly believe in corrections if and when needed...lol. However distance was more the problem last night...there was no way i would have been able to get back to him in time to correct and have the timing right if that makes sense? His tanties are much like the sterio typical kid in a shopping centre on their back with feet and fists in the air, kicking, screaming and angry...lol - he's been doing them like that since he was 8 weeks old. One of his brothers (the other black on in the litter!) is exactly the same!!! I thought Sabe had grown out of them...but i guess last night was a 'newish' experiance and so decided it was worth a shot with a tantie...lol. He is fine in the back yard...i can actually put him in a stay and work Bronx around him...or tie him up and work Bronx around him. Haven't tried a park as the only parks really near us and useable are dog parks...which i don't take my dogs to...lol. Chances are the pens won't be here and up by next Monday so it will either be my OH there to watch him, or the RT with me having the controller with me...lol. Or he may just decide the tantie didn't get him anyway before and behave - can't always tell with Sabe...lol. ETA - Thanks for that Sidoney - i might look further into the TnT idea - however it may have to wait until i have paid off the pens...lol - they ate up my 'Ebay allowance" for this month

I have a lantra wagon...however it's still got a fair bit of stuff from when we moved a few months ago...i haven't had the chance to get the last smaller bits and pieces from the seat wells etc ;) Not to mention that i have a soft crate almost permanently in there for when Bronx works with me on Sundays (if i thought Sabe wouldn't have eaten it i'd have stuffed him into it - however it's already fairly trashed thanks to Sabe!). If i shift everything i should be able to fit a metal crate into the back seat, Sabe in the boot and Bronx in the passenger seat - however the crates will have to wait until the new dog runs arrive - as otherwise i'd be too stuffed to shift the metal crate back into the shed for bedtime So if the pens haven't turned up by next training day i might try the remote trainer and go from there - but if we have the pens i'll try the covered crate idea (with the RT as backup! lol)

And often as not it's not just that PP sells pups and kittens...it's where they obtain those pups and kittens...and the age and treatment of them

Yeah...a look is kind of a reward for Sabre as well - he'd be quiet for a second as soon as i glared at him from across the soccer field ( ;) ) and then would start up again as soon as my attention was back on Bronx...lol. I've thought about the crate...but it would have to be one of the metal ones as he can easily trash a soft crate...but shifting a metal crate across the field before and after training would wear me out more then just training the dogs! I might have to invest in a trolley..... ETA - thinking about it...not sure i can fit two large dogs and a big metal crate and trolley in my car...at it is Bronx sits in the front passenger seat. Might have to clean out my car and see if i can make some additional room

Many vets aren't that up on canine and feline nutritional requirements - and BARF/RAW can be problematic if you aren't careful and get the requirements right. So an easy way is high quality dry food - as it's 'balance in a bag' as it were For example some peoples idea of feeding raw is just to feed raw meat...no bones, no bits, nothing else...just minced raw meat - which of course isn't a balanced diet for anything! ;)

The regular walk will help as excercise tends to encourage the 'system' to work But perhaps add a bit of tin food to her dinner each night - just for that little bit of added help...lol

Yeah...i did have one but had to sell it as i wasn't getting as much use out of it as i had intended/expected due to a change or two in circumstances. So sold it and paid out what was left owing on it I may end up getting a little 2berth in the next year or two...but it will partially depend on how finances go at the moment - and i am still hoping to get a Challenger in the near future so depending on how much that costs me i might be able to add a cheap trailer to it not long after ;) ETA - mind you with a Challenger i would be able to put a crate in the back - not to mention if i set the back up as a crate itself etc...lol

Sabe is used to being left behind...he doesn't like it when i take Bronx out with me and leave him at home...but it's only 5mins of whinging and then he is over it. I think part of it may have been the fact he could at times see us...and see that Bronx was out 'playing' with me...so he did what he used to do....chuck a tantie until he decided it wasn't working for him. He was quiet for a few times while he couldn't see us, and perhaps the last ten-15mins of class...as we were finishing and discussing what to practice etc etc. As we walked back he was quiet...and when i tied Bronx up with him Sabe was still quiet etc. I thought about a crate in the car...but my car isn't big enough to be able to do that and still fit Sabe in the crate...lol

Well...as Varicool can attest...my lil black brat Sabre decided to chuck a tantie while Bronx and i trained in the third class at training tonight. Sabre trained in the first class...did as expected...very distracted but not as bad as he could have been But when i swapped them over Sabre went nuts...and spent 40 minutes out of the next 45 barking his pretty head off - all tantie that he was there and Bronx was with me on the field. I'm looking to take the remote trainer next time...as i can't really put everyone thru that much noise again! I was suggested to put Sabre in the car...except i know he would trash it! I live nearby but not close enough to take Sabe home and get back with Bronx before classes restart. Any ideas? On a good note...Bronx was doing stands and stand for exam fairly well!!

It could be submissive urination - and having been yelled at for it has perhaps made it worse. Have him checked out for a UTI perhaps (is this the only time he pees where he shouldn't?)? Also perhaps teach him to pee on command so that you can at least get him to pee before he gets in the car - or make sure he does pee before getting into the car? Also look at Bellybands just in case which will at least soak up the pee if he does accidently wee.

The RSPCA mobs up here get rather upset just at the mention of them. I was in their store and nearly got kicked out because i asked if they stocked them! Which they don't as i was told in very uncertain terms The training they do up this way is (or at least was!) all very much purely positive, and use either a flat collar or halti i believe.

Yup...uncooked everything is the way to go Kibble is a generalised term many use for dry dog food - 'kibble' used to be a brand of dry food but i don't think it is available any more - but the term got adopted...lol. The puppy porridge isn't bad...but the slightly soaked kibble would still be better. One of my pups loved the puppy porridge...unfortunately it went straight thru the other dog!

Proplan is often a bit cheaper then the other super premium brands...as you get 18kg for the same price as the others do a 15kg. But it is a great food and i'd recommend it to anyone...the salmon based one is fantastic as well!

I'd probably soak the puppy milk with puppy kibble for the breakfast rather then the wheatbix only because the wheatbix has little nutritional value to a dog. and perhaps not use brussel sprouts as it may make the pup fart...lol. Carrots are great as a treat - kinda like a bone but if it isn't processed (mulched/blended etc) the dog won't easily digest it. Same as with the sprouts. But in general...i don't think there is anything really wrong with the diet you are feeding...if the breeder was happy with it and you are happy with it...and most importantly the pup is happy and healthy...well...

Could be linked with the RSPCA dislike of check chains as well...they don't believe in the use of check chains and consider them cruel etc. They also seem to be going with the idea of purely positive training...so perhaps they are stating that general run obedience, eg check chains and balanced training etc, is cruel compaired to what they agree with and so intend to run with that ideal?

Has PETA taken over the RSPCA?

Yup...best to slowly transfer the foods over a few days to a week depending if the dog is sensitive to change etc. Perhaps put a blob of natural yogurt in with dinner each night to help the tummy deal with the change

Hills isn't a bad food...it isn't one of my favs...but my cats love it and do well on it so they often get it...lol. I know oodles of dogs that do wonderfully on the stuff as well and have no hesitation feeding it to my dogs occasionally. However vets often encourage people to buy Hills as they generally stock the product. If your dog is doing well on Hills then stick with it if you are happy and your dog is happy. However if you feel the dog could do better try something else, or if you want to try your dog on something else then also do so - there are heaps of great foods out there to choose from

Just to get numbers/bulk up it might be worth put this info on a cat forum or two? as in Cat-World perhaps?

Check out this website - Dogfood Project - very informative, unbiased against any particular food, very easy to read and it will tell you what to look for in a dry food -both good and bad!

Raw may be the best...for those dogs that do well on it - Not all dogs do so well on a Raw diet...or a Barf diet for that matter...some do better on one over the other in that respect as well. If you are happy with the pups condition on the Advance...then stick with it...i would agree in changing the type to the large breed growth with a change over of a few days to a week depending on how much of the normal Advance puppy food you have

Canidae Website Timberwolf Organics Website Orijen Website GO! Website

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Aaww cute! I probably would be careful of massaging the ears near the tips etc as i've been told that can make them soft. Give the pup lots of stuff to chew inclluding bones etc (chook necks, wings etc) as this will build the strength at the base of the ear and go from there. However...ears to tend to be all over the place, especially coming up to and during teething...lol - but again...keep the pup chewing stuff throughout that period as well