KitKat

Some will stock it some won't - but ask around and see how you go. It's a white bottle with red writing from memory!

I use a product called Ban Itch - it's a spray that will gently numb the area as well discourage the licking because it's a bitterant spray as well

Now they get no suppliments, no vegies, no offal, no fruit - just meaty bones...lol and one night it might be more meat then bone, the next more bone then meat, the next balance of bone/meat - just depends on what i haul out of the freezer. They semi regularly get kibble (uncle albers) and occasionally get a tinned meal. They also get a cup or two of el cheapo kibble tossed out into the yard to find for breakfast between them most days. And that's it...lol - seemed the less effort I put into it the better they looked

I was having to feed a rediculous amount of raw/barf to keep my dogs in condition - it was cheaper to buy RC kibble! When i did it by the book the boys (GSD's) didn't keep their condition but they did on kibble. Currently they are getting a bag of bones (lamb, pork, beef etC) between them each night ($1) and occasionally get kibble (Uncle Barko), chook frames (5 for $1) etc and they are looking great

Well picked up some salmon heads from Coles ($3.39kg), and some salmon frames from the fish shop ($2.99kg) so will see how the boys go...they'll get a frame (includes head) each tonight for dinner :rolleyes:

Hmmm...might have to hunt down some salmon heads for my GSD's

Use the curash or zinc powder - you won't even need to clip the fur just make sure you get a good dusting into the coat onto the skin Perhaps dose for a couple of days and usually it's gone very very quickly

Going by the bags my dogs would be eating way more then they actually are of the stuff - but if they ate the recommended amount they'd be fat in no time

Perhaps it depends on the pooch? I've only been feeding perhaps a half the amount of Albers then i did if the super premiums because it's so dense and more then that amount and the boys pack on the weight. Hasn't been any difference in the amount of poo with uncle albers vs Euk/Hills/etc. The view of the food is an obvious reduction in cereals as it's so dense and moist as opposed to the 'fluffy' look some of the kibbles can have. High in protien and high in fat so the dogs need less...but seems to be high in taste as my boys will pick it over other stuff and the cats try and steal it :laughL

Have you still got the receipts? try taking it back saying you aren't happy with it - they usually have a palatability guarentee...say they aren't eating it...lol. I've used the retail lines of those foods and found them pretty good - haven't used the vet line version tho.

Wow that's a great price!!! Around this we they seem to go for between $4.99 to $6.99 a kg! My GSD's love them and when they do get one...they get a whole beef one each...and their eyes near fall out of their heads

If she's not eating the kibble, but is going well with the raw then stick with it ;) Nothing wrong with it at all - just make sure she's getting the right amounts and all will be fine

Bunnings :D However as far as i knew it was jsut a dremel grinding tool rather then specifically for dogs nails...

I'll give you the advice I give anyone dealing with frustration/feelings of failure. Don't compare you and your dogs with other handlers and dogs. Look how far you've come. You didn't start with blank slates, you started with dogs that require some habits to be untrained - and that takes longer. If you really feel like you need a booster, book a couple of private sessions with a really shit hot pro - and they are out there. Sometimes a bit of one on one training can really boost your confidence and success. ETA: And remember that no one knows your dogs better than you. I second..third? that!!! I'd been a 'pet/companion' only dog owner/trainer for a while and when i got Bronx as a pup i thought i was doing the right thign and started working with him as soon as i got him home...and he's pretty wonderful if i may say so myself! However when i was getting around to getting Sabre i was being told by my obedience instructors that i was too hard on Bronx by starting his training at 8 weeks and that i should let Sabre be a puppy...and not to push any manners/obedience on him until he was at least 12 months - which left me with 30kgs of ADD pooch to deal with at that stage! He now knows his stuff but his attention span is somewhat...fun. Due to that nice lil lesson i'll thank people for their advice...but do what i feel is right, and works, with my dogs - and i'll continue to do that with any dog that joins the pack from here on in...lol. So be polite but do what you feel is right for your dogs, even if it means trying and disgarding techniques etc - some things work for some dogs, other things don't. "What's the one thing that two trainers will agree on?? That the third trainer is wrong" :D

It will take more then two days...remember he is a baby! I generally suggest to people the following - every two hours take him outside to toilet, when he wakes from sleep/nap take him outside to toilet, when he's finished playing take him outside to toilet, when he's had a drink take him outside to toilet, when he's had some food take him outside to toilet etc etc as well as the every two hours. Be boring when you are outside waiting for him to toilet, but once he is toileting etc tell him what a good boy he is and use your toilet command eg "toilet, good toilet, good boy, good toilet" etc. It's what i did with my boys and they will pee on command but won't poo anywhere except at home But first of all...he is just a baby, he's still learning to know when he needs to go to the toilet himself, let alone where to go or how to get your attention. Be paitent and don't rouse on him for any mistakes he makes -at this point his toileting mistakes are your mistakes. My boys were house trained and sleeping through the night in two weeks, but much depends on the pup and what he learnt when he was with his mum and sibs.

Thanks everyone!!!! Keep the info coming

Ok...got family moving down to Canberra to Queanbeyan in the very near future and they have an older Lab with newly diagnosed diabeties. They will probably be after a second opinion regarding treatment etc as they've not been so happy with the diagnosis/treatment so far. Occasional kenneling will also be a must - so if anyone has some recommendations for both kennels and vets down that way please let me know so i can pass on the info At this point the Lab is requiring 12hourly injections so a kennel that will look after that would be great as well Thanks all!

Unfortunately i've seen as many things saying such causes it as stops the problem - eg raising the food bowl will lower the risk of bloat, raising the bowl will raise the risk of bloat; raw food will lower the risk of bloat, raw food will increase the risk of bloat; dry food will raise the risk of bloat, dry food will lower the risk of bloat; bloat is genetic, bloat isn't genetic. Personally i've one of those people that believe if it's going to happen it's going to happen and that it will be one of those freak things that if you are quick enough to see it happening and get the dog to the vet the dog might just make it. But in the end there's nothing that you do or don't do that is particularly going to stop the chance of it happening - comes down to bad luck. As said above basically.

Nutro - Lovely coats, small poos, bright eyes...just had to feed a riduclous amount to keep weight on the dogs and that was the performance version. Cats wouldn't touch the stuff. However i still would say is't a great food...but i don't think you can get it in Aus anymore anyway...lol. Supercoat - crap, crap, crap...there was crap everywhere, huge gross poos, dry coat etc Royal Canin - Have used the GSD, GSD Junior, Maxi, Maxi Junior, 4400 - excellent foods, never an issue with any and dogs looked great on it, small poos etc - just had a few dips financial wise and just haven't gone back to it. Proplan - Same as above. Hills - only had problems with the light version which went straight through the dogs. Barf by the book - great except for having to feed stupidly huge amounts of the food in an an effort to keep weight on the dogs. Euk - not an issue at all, but for the price i'd chose proplan/RC over it. Iams - same as above. Advance - Dogs just didn't really like it. Uncle Albers - great food, dogs love it, look great on it - in fact look as good as when on RC/Proplan etc, feed less of it then even the RC/PP/Euk etc. (used to get free kibble which should explain the variety, lol - however i also like to try different foods on the dogs as if i'm selling it (even if only casually) then i want to have tried it...lol)

Actually...RC do a retail line as part of their small/'mini' range - along with beauty and indoor - i just don't think you can get it in the bigger (7kg etc) size bags.

How different is Supercoat to Proplan? They are both made by Purina... Most food companies make a range of foods from lower quality to higher quality - same can be said of many other products if you look at the companies behind them. As to smell - i haven't noticed, i use it more for my cats these days and they seem to enjoy their kittie Advance food But as with all foods - go by your preference and your dogs 'preference'.

I think Advance also do a dental for dogs? might be worth a shot as well

Royal Canin do a oral kibble for small dogs - perhaps that's worth a go? ETA - also if giving meat perhaps cut it into large chunks so that the dog has to work on it - this will help the teeth as well

If you feed what the packaging says...you will end up with a fat dog (unless it's a working dog perhaps). As i said earlier i actually feed less of the Uncle Albers (it's slightly higher fat/protein then GB) then i did of Euk/Hills etc to my two boofheads

Whenever i find them at the supermarkets i pick up some for my GSD's - great crunchy treats for poochies of any size