MolassesLass

I too believe in the raised bowls added to adequate vitamin C intake. This not only helps splayed feet, but dropped pasterns and east-west fronts. I use coop-cups as dog bowls (made for birds) so I can hang them on the wire on the dogs pens and raise as they get bigger. Thanks for the info on bloat though, didn't realise this and will watch Duke (Bullmastiff) more carefully. He had very splayed feet at 8 weeks and they have improved HEAPS in the 3.5 weeks he's been with me with raised bowl and plenty of vitamin C.

Good on ya. My Dad swore black and blue he was never having another dog after the last one (Dusty) died. She was a ACD purchased from a BYB and was the last pup left and no one wanted her (she was already 4 months old). She had a pretty bad temperament (used to nip people quite a lot) but she lived with my Dad when he and mum split up and they were best friends. She got hit by a car because she used to do anything to escape while he was at work and sit on the road watching to see his car return. She died at 14.5 years old when deaf, and pretty blind, she fell asleep behind the wheel of a visitors car who backed out without looking. He said he could never have another dog because they'd never measure up. I got a call when the pups were 6 weeks old and he asked very sheepishly if he could have a dog, promised to do everything I said it needed and would be a good owner. Silly Daddy! Of course I knew, despite his old-world dog knowledge, he would make a perfect owner (with some updated knowledge). He asked to have only the pup no-one else wanted and as fate would have it, this was to be the pup I would have chosen for him anyway. Tilly was the only puppy who looked like her mother rather than her father (no white on the face and not a lot overall), she was independant and the only puppy she would play with was Kara (the pup I was keeping). To see what Tilly has done for my dad (had a hard life - mostly by his own doing, but still) is incredible and one of the big reasons I am a breeder. He's know a fully committed BARF feeder, he vaccinates, worms and had Tilly microchipped. He's careful about too much exercise in a young pup and checks her over for ticks everyday despite not being in a known tick area. He records her weight and height every month and makes sure she's groomed well. He will really appreciate borrowing your books PF. Thank you so much, I am in tears here at work.

Oh that would be great PF! You are such a legend. PM me with what it will cost to post them up to me (postcode 4113) and your bank details and I will deposit the money. Again, you are such a legend! Ok, deal. I have an awful feeling Dad already has this book, he told me he got some RSPCA training book.

And no offence to you HR, but we're talking above a novice dog owner here who wants to move into some competition with his one dog. How can you possibly think an outlay of $291 for 1 book could possibly be justified by an owner of this type (no matter how good it may be). It's like recommending to someone who is just starting out in photography that they need to buy a development lab and $10000 worth of equipment. It's simply OTT and unpractical. Sure maybe one day if they become very serious they will get to that point, but right now it's the most ridiculous suggestion ever made. Horses for courses people.

Tea Tree Oil can be just as dangerous as Ivermectin. Tea Tree Oil Toxicity

Trust me, he already knows this. He told me the other night that he feels so bad about how much better a bond he could have had with Dusty (his last dog) if he had known this better way of training. He said he could tell when he cleans Tilly's ears or cuts her nails and just checking her over that she trusts him completely. Brought tears to my eyes. You can't blame him for how he used to train, it was all most people knew back when he first learnt about dogs; but I am so proud at how he has taken up the challenge of a new way of thinking. While Dad has grasped some new dog training techniques, for now, computers (and the internet) are still outside his comfort zone. He's talking of paying for some lessons at TAFE or something but for now he can't manage it. Will keep it in my list to give to him though. Can the person who suggested "The Dog Whisperer" please clarify whether they meant "The Dog Whisperer : The Essential Guide To Understanding And Raising A Happy Dog by John Richardson And Others" or "The Dog Whisperer : A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach To Dog Training by Paul Owens And Others" ? Thanks everyone

If it's juvenile demodex and hormone related, the treatment would depend on the dog's "function" for me. If the dog is a pet then it would be desex and let the hormones subside then the demodex should clear up. If the dog is a competition dog (a lot of people like to wait until 12 months to desex these dogs to make sure they don't get too tall) then I'd treat it topically with vaseline (to starve the mites of oxygen) and wait it out. If the dog is a show dog (isn't going to be desexed in the immediate future and it matters what it looks like) then I would follow my vets treatment, which was Ivermectin dosed orally daily until it cleared up. In all the above cases I would also treat the dogs immune system (since a lowered immune system is usually one of the factors for demodex occuring). So Aloe Vera juice, kids multi-vitamins, liver and a clean-out of all areas the dog goes (without using chemicals). If the dog is healthy then it will fight the problem far quicker. JMO

It is important to get your vet to do a skin scrape to confirm that the mange you are dealing with is Demodex and not Sarcopic (sp?). Once they have done that, they will recommend a treatment for you.

:D It had better be good for $291 Herr Rott! Thanks for the suggestion though.

Ok, read up on Amazon.com about those books and they seem to be all on behaviour but a most (according to the reviews) lack practical examples or exercises to do. Any books specifically on training (probably not clicker-training though)?

PF - Is this the book "Think Dog! An Owner's Guide to Canine Psychology by John Fisher" ?

He attends the monthly frisbee training clinics (drives 2.5 hours to attend!) and has started formal obedience classes with Tilly. He is really willinging to ask and listen to advise at training but sometimes is a little shy about it, so misses out. He is trying SO hard to do stuff with her and REALLY wants to be good at it (don't worry, I'm working on easing this pressure he puts on himself). The books are more to bring his thought processes up-to-date (i.e. so he thinks "she's trying to dominate me here" instead of "Oh she's so cute" or "Oh she's just too tired/distracted to do it properly") and something he can read at home, in-between classes.

My father purchased one of the pups from my litter, Tilly is now almost 9 months old and they get along great but I feel she plays him like a piano too much. My dad is not a novice dog owner but he's changed his entire interaction this time around. Previously, dogs were always allowed to do what they like basically (didn't want to break their "spirit" and turn them into a robot) and he used physical punishment (smacks) in training what he did expect. This time around he wants to train as positively as possible and wants to do dog sports and things that require a high level of training. Tilly's very smart and I feel she is being dominant with him. She jumps up a lot, demands attention and is constantly trying to play games (frisbee and obedience) HER way not Dads. We talk almost weekly and I give him tips and help out but I can tell he gets a bit embarassed at having his daughter teach him stuff and I think he'd learn the ideas quicker from a book (if it's the right book). I also feel he is struggling in his efforts to be positive and is being too easy on her. So, does anyone have any recommendations for some good books on understanding dog behaviour, dog training (for sports not just pet behaviour) and the like? (Especially if they speak of dealing with the dominant or leader dog)

There is a C7, it's fairly new in Australia and not worth it IMO. It's been discussed here before (try a search). C3 = Vaccination against Canine Hepatitis, Canine Distemper and Canine Parvovirus C4 = C3 + Canine Parainfluenza Virus C5 = C4 + Bordatella bronchiseptica C7 = C5 + Leptopsirosis and Canine Coronavirus The two components for KC (C4 and C5) are not needed IMO as it's like trying to vaccinate against the common cold; too many variations to cover them all and not that bad a problem if gotten anyway. But I know it is needed for kenneling and by some dog clubs. Leptospirosis can be a problem in Australia, mostly in Qld according to statistics. It's a very big problem up around Mackay according to this vet. But in saying that, I've never heard of a case in all my years. Coronavirus: Source As for Minx's itching, have diet changes been tried to see if she's allergic to something, checked the garden for rogue plants/weeds and the house (if she comes inside) for what detergents she may be coming in contact with?

So sorry to hear of another old girl lost. Run free Molly.

:D I was very saddened to hear the news this morning. I'm thankful I got to know her this last year and even got to give her a pat just last Thursday. Even a novice like me could tell what a true working dog she was (and how much she loved her master). Condolances to you and Dave. :p Run free Murph.

The Herding Instinct Certificate costs the same as a title ($16.50) here in Qld. I believe you get the pretty certificate you always get but no change to the dogs pedigree (registered name). That's from second hand knowledge having not done a dog myself at this level in the new rules.

Cath, I keep a copy of the rules on my site, accessible here.

Not sure if it applies, but I find SuperCoat makes for very bulky poos. So perhaps they extra amount is catching them off-guard? SuperCoat is the dry food I feed along with my BARF diet, I've not noticed a smell on the dog but the poos do smell far worse when only fed SuperCoat then when fed it as part of BARF. But I find that with all dry foods.

Run free little fella.

There aren't any thigh bones on the carcasses I get. It's just the beast bone, rib cage and tail with a bit of skin and flesh left on (and sometimes the kidneys). Kinda like this (this is human grade, so the dog ones have less flesh):

There are shepherd whistles for sale in Australia from here.

Thanks Nat. Hmm, now I have seen people competing with the dog on their right, I wonder if they get a small deduction for the dog being out of position but not continuing deductions due to the dog maintaining the position? Or perhaps if you have a medical certificate or something as to why the dog must be on the right you can?

Depends what you are buying who makes it Reddog. Are you buying Billinghurst patties or something else? Is the packaging like this: or this: Probably just a conincidence that the two are moving factories at the same time.

Edit: Hmm, someone has suggested there may be a ruling to have the dog on the left in trials here in Aus. and I don't have my rulebook here to check. Anyone got one handy?