MolassesLass

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I'm involved in rescue, I am a breeder who desexes all pets at 8 weeks and I believe all dogs, regardless of gender should be spayed if not actively involved in showing or a responsible, ethical breeding programme. I think the local councils system of entire dogs being far more expensive to register is a great thing. I don't think it should matter to pet owners whether their dog looks slightly different to their show cousins (they usually will despite any desexing differences). I do think the health benefits are significant and I don't think 99% of the pet-owning public is equipped to deal with an entire dog of either gender. Correct management theory is the same but the practice is much different. It can be a lot harder to contain an entire dog, it can be a lot harder to have a well adjusted entire dog, etc etc Edit: Changed "is" to "can be"

Last time I checked it was $16 delivery for as big an order as you make, not really an issue when I would pay $4.80 in tolls and then petrol and time on top of that. I have high energy dogs so it's Weaner and Breeder's Choice for me. Dunno, ask Gary. Yup they love it.

I wouldn't use a calcium supplement, too risky, you just need to add more bones with very little meat on them. So a small amount of mince with a lot of chicken wings or turkey necks or the lamb flap bones etc. Or do what I do, which is buy the mince from BigDog Petfoods (delivered) and buy the bones from Canine Country.

The only way to contact them is via the phone numbers, he just can't seem to get the hang of the email. :D ETA: The only thing to remember with the Canine Country mince is that there is no bone in there, it is meat only. So to get the correct phosphorus/calcium ratio you will need to add bone.

BigDog Petfoods (where I assume you are getting your stuff from) was going to be supplying bones soon, have they cancelled those plans? Otherwise you could try Canine Country Pet Foods. They are on the southside but I think they do deliveries. They also offer a 5% discount to all CCCQ members. Phone: 0732082849

To be correct, I asked why Tassie thought that didn't happen. I never made any agreeance of their opinion, simply wanted to know what reasoning they had for it.

Yup, he's teething and he already has bite inhibition. I taught this via yelping like a puppy when he bit too hard when he was younger. Have I lessened any chance I had of him being 'menacing' or simply of biting effectively? And I haven't seen any dominance behaviour with me, hopefully I'm not just missing it! What age would you say that is? Wasn't his playing bark, wasn't an aggressive bark either (in fact, never heard one of these). Seemed like it could have been telling them off (a bit leaderish). Short barks, repeated with a bit of a gap while standing at a half metre distance from the fighters as I broke it up. His tail was up and still, no growling. ;) Sounds expensive.

Firstly, K9, let me say thank you very much for your time and effort and free advice, yay! ;) Secondly, Jinta, thank you for the thread, very similar to what I'm going through and so is helping a lot. Ok now....I know I'm probably asking too much but is there anything I can look for or expect of a 4 month old Bullmastiff puppy to see if he has any guarding drive? I'm thinking, if there's not much naturally there the sooner I start teaching techniques the better or is it better to wait until they are older and hopefully have more confidence? I thought I may have seen something in him the other day. I have a visiting dog at the moment, litter sister to Kara (both 10 months old) they got in a rank fight (Kara tried to steal toy and Tilly didn't appreciate it) and Duke (Bullmastiff puppy) came out from his sleeping spot and barked at them. Is this perhaps guarding of Kara or me or just playing or nothing? How about in Brisbane or a recommendation of someone local?

Boring! PF's right though, it's a very good start, especially with the new CCD entry level coming in next year (all on-lead). Hope you both find something you love!

Oh that article sounds like just what I wanted, although I've still got plenty of time before beginning this training (Duke is only 4 months). Thanks

I got my Bullmastiff for something that looked scary but I think it needs to be backed up with territorialness of his home. If my 60kg boy is doing butt-waggles and play bows at the door/fence he's hardly going to deter an intruder than if he was barking or at least growling. I don't want an attack trained dog or a dog that would actually lunge out and defend me like a bodyguard in a serious situation but I do want an effective deterrant for my yard and house. How do I encourage my Bullmastiff to want to defend his property (by barking and growling when at home) without making him a menance to normal society? Can I even train him to not welcome strangers simply by not reacting (which would be better than being inviting)? And do I have no hope if the other two dogs he lives with have no idea of territorialness?

This thread may have something of use. I'm also interested in hearing at-home ways of encouraging territorialness of house and owner.

Yes, yes they do. :shakehead: I agree with what Vehs said exactly: PLEASE do not shave your Border Collie (or any other double coated breed). If you do please be aware that not only has your dog now lost it's insulative coat, but it's skin is now exposed to the sun's rays and can possibly be getting sunburnt and very painful.

Ah ok. That should be fine, as long as the dog can't squish the plastic into her mouth and then chew the muzzle to pieces. Destructive rescues teach you to think of every possibility for disaster.

Could work, unless the muzzle is used to bash into things and damage them. Thinking of the working muzzle I have for my dogs, they could still do damage with it when trying to get to stuff. A quietening technique: On a day when you aren't leaving pretend to leave, go about your usual leaving routine and put the dog outside. Have a bucket of water with a cup or small container sitting in it just outside the dogs pen. Wait inside until dog howls/barks, then calmly (important!) walk outside, scoop up the container full of water and toss in the dogs face. Say nothing, walk back inside and try to sound like you've left again. The idea being a splash of water in the face is not pleasant (while also not being cruel) and teaches the dog that howling/barking for your attention is not fun, because when you do come out to give the attention, not only is none given (by the calm, no talking-ness) but the unpleasant thing happens. I guess it could make her worse, by thinking that you are still home all the time, but if the aversion of the water works well enough this shouldn't happen. Can the other dog/s be left outside with her or does she howl despite them being around?

Some tips near the bottom of this page. ETA: For Duke (the only black nailed dog I have) I roll him on his back and look underneath the nail. You can see where there is white stuff under the nail and where it is black only. If you cut to the white part you seem to be safe.