MolassesLass

I found these averages online: And a detailed week by week chart here. But do check with your breeder when you can and ask your vet next time you're in.

Yup, once a day sprinkled on the BARF, I guess the dogs like the taste. On nights when I'm giving a lot of powdered supplements I'm usually adding an oil so that helps.

Have used a Furminator but prefer just an undercoat rake (like this).

Same here While heeling or stationary when first taught?

Luring / physical pressure? On the move / standing still? From the stand / sit? etc etc.

BARFWorld

Oh yes! We had that issue too, it made Kara sneeze heavily for at least a minute after having it. Then because the smell is so strong, she would head for the hills as soon as it was opened from then on and it was a "fight" to get her to take it.

Tried the incontinence mixture and it didn't work for us.

A good start would be to read the BARFWorld website here. Basically it's a feeding regime based on Biologically Appropriate Raw Food.

Looks like it! I hope we'll be seeing you at the Howl-O-Ween Flying Disc Dogs Championships on November 4th!

That confirms it, I don't understand the term "drive". Well, no, not really - that's why I asked. I do understand that you consider what I have and what I'm doing incorrect - and that's cool, I'm comfortable with what I do and that's all that matters to me.

No! Not wrong at all Vickie, I think it just gets deeper into what everyone's looking at. Whether the low drive dog actually has natural high drive for that one thing or whether it has been trained to have high drive for it. Which LP just mentioned too... "they can be enthusiastic, but not 'drivey' about it " - how to tell the difference?! I think I can guess the answer but you know what they say about assuming! Vickie do you believe that high drive is the only way a BC should be (i.e. that you believe moderate is incorrect)? On lifestyles, I specifically chose what I believe to be a low drive breed because he wasn't purchased as a sporting dog. He wasn't ever going to be my focus I guess and a moderate or high drive in that dog would be a hassle/adventure I didn't need. (please don't think he isn't loved or cared for like the BCs, he was just purchased with a different requirement in mind) You and me both! From your ETA2 description, the few differences I see in my dogs and why I define them as moderate rather than high is that it's not ALL of the focus ALL of the time and that the ball only has value when there's a person to throw it (or another dog to keep it from). Being ball obsessed would also fit that description, so is being obsessed the same as being high drive?

Yes it makes sense - I just don't agree with you. The things I listed are the things I see a high drive as doing if it wasn't being channeled. Because if you are channelling a dog you are modifying it's behaviour and therefore removing the differences that would exist between a high, moderate and low drive dog (unless I use specific training examples). I'm not trying to accuse high drive dogs of being unhandlable or saying that no one should have them. No, the things he has drive for always switch him on. But it's very few things that do this and the type of things that switch him on aren't constantly available so he's low IMO. A permanent "non stop manic dog" is going to be high drive IMO. A dog that is a "non stop manic dog" for food but is otherwise an "mostly stopped calm dog" is not high drive IMO. A dog that only has one drive that needs satisfying is not high drive to me. "you see one high drive as making the dog high drive whereas I don't." I look for an large majority of high drives to class a dog as high drive, not just one. It was the same thing I said at the start of my last post.

This is what I deem as 'high drive' (although I may very well be wrong ) I agree with the definition but don't agree that having this for just one thing defines a dog as high drive. For me, it's across the board. To me, a dog may have high drive for some thing(s) but not be a high drive dog. Do what and to what level? A dog may want to 'do' something but only at moderate speed etc. I tend to believe that a dog won't simply want to 'do' something just because, but they want to 'do' it for the rewards they are to receive. That might be the chase, running with owners, food, toys etc,etc,etc. IMO - you can still have a 'high drive' dog with an off switch - so thereby not *constantly* wanting to do things :D. Do whatever the dog fancies if the drive is not channeled. So a dog that constantly searches the yard for bugs to chase, a dog that is constantly trying to get into things because it's interesting/fun/something to do, a dog that constantly wants to play ball. High drive might start below the "constant" point but to me it's more than just a dog that will turn itself inside out for one thing. A dog that needs a high level of phyiscal and mental stimulation to be happy and not destructive. Why is it low drive then? If it goes 'spastic nutso' for one thing? Does it only last a short time? IMO - if that 'low drive' dog goes spastic for one thing, you could use that one thing to build up drive to a reasonable level - it's all about finding ways to make your dogs 'tick'..... to me - low drive dogs are the 'plods' of the dog world - never doing anything above 2nd gear.... so you show them their 'favourite' thing and they look at you as if to say 'woah.... coool.... ' and that's about it Because he doesn't do anything by choice and what you can get him to do, isn't much. Duke would (and does!) lay on his bed all day, he doesn't ask for pats or play. He very rarely joins in play that happens around him. To me, he has a low drive to do "things" overall therefore he's a low drive dog. He is a Bullmastiff, they are plods - very intelligent just not highly driven dogs. He has strong territorial, prey and food drives - there are times when I can get him to act like a loon (he's not yet at the "mature" age for his breed so that may stop) but that doesn't make him high drive. Again, it comes down to the fact that you see one high drive as making the dog high drive whereas I don't.

Ah! My definition of drive is different to that. Drive to me is the want to do things overall. A high drive dog to me is one that is constantly wanting to do things (high phyiscal and mental stimulation needs I guess). Hmmm....now I've read it, perhaps I'm talking activitiy levels not drive. My dogs will go totally spastic nutso for at least one thing each but ones low drive and the other 3 moderate IMO.

Nutbags, the lot of ya! Moderate drive BCs for me, the high drive is just not what I want (moderate for a BC is probably higher than high in other breeds tho). I do agree with the statement that it's easier to control drive than create it so low drive is not for me either.

Very bad rep. and I just had a very bad experience.

I would NOT under ANY circumstances attend RSPCA training.

Hadn't heard anything myself but a Google search came up with some stuff. Though Cesar has said I don't think him not being directly involved is much better for him.Can't seem to find the outcome of the case.

Kara has been leaking, we had thought she was incontinent and tried a herbal solution. This didn't stop the leaking which since Kara left me has gotten worse. I sent them in to have her tested because I thought she smelt like she had a UTI when I had her the other day. I did tell them that kidneys needed to be checked and diabetes before any incontinence medication is started (and I did tell them NOT to use Stibeostrol). Thyroid is one I didn't think of. When asked why on a few things my brother said "I don't know, but it's the vet, so they know what they are doing" to which I replied a few choice words and I think upset my brother. Not sure I'm allowed to comment any more right now, but maybe soon. :rolleyes: I think she drinks a lot but when I asked my vet about that, they said "a lot" is insanely huge amounts that would leave no person in any doubt there's an issue. And I wouldn't say it's that bad. I think I'm just being a bad ex-owner and not letting go.

I don't know but I doubt it. This isn't my dog but my brothers. They took a urine sample to the vet yesterday which was tested for UTIs I believe and found to be clear. The vet said something like "We'll try her on the Stibeostrol for 5 days, see if the estrogen helps the sphinter tighten" I'm sure I read you shouldn't give this stuff to a dog that hasn't yet been tested for diabetes and so on. I am worried because Kara was my dog and it feels like this vet is either taking them for a ride or isn't the type of vet I want them using (i.e. the type jumps to synthetic hormones without correct testing). :rolleyes:

The vet has said that Kara is "over processing urine" which "could be caused by drinking too much". For this they have perscribed Stibeostrol which is for incontinence I thought. I'm confused and concerned about why this sythetic hormone has been perscribed when the issue is "over processing urine", can anyone help?

Yup, the "disgraced one" will be there. I may get my lazy ass over there too.

Worming schedule is usually recommended (from 8 weeks) as 10 weeks, 12 weeks, 4 months, 5 months, 6 months and then every 3 months.

Thanks for that Varicool, I don't think I gave them enough warning to get there Friday. Hopefully you should meet a puppy of mine at training soon.