RuralPug

Teddy probably feels a bit lost without Peanut, I think seeking another bully to love as soon as you can is a wonderful idea! I see that all the bullies currently listed at Victorian Bull Terrier Rescue need to be only dogs but I'm just wondering if you have contacted them to see if they have a bitch (opposite sexes are usually best with bull breeds) that would suit you? Never hurts to ask! If they don't have anything then go right ahead and apply for an interstate one!

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Honestly the symptoms don't sound like any vaccination reaction that I have ever seen, I agree ask the breeder if there is anything like that known in the family. I hope the vet gets to the bottom of it soon and it is treatable.

Pounds that they manage on behalf of council, if they are not taking adoptables from the strays and unclaimed pets then either those pets will be PTS under council rules after so may days OR perhaps rescue groups may be offered easily adoptable dogs as well as the elderly, infirm and behavioural issues that are most often offered to rescue from RSPCA(QLD). Well, we can hope can't we?

Most of the small terriers have ear piercing shrieks - that is the one downfall of the ETT!

From his feet, he will be bigger than the average Amstaff you need to feed him as though he was a Mastiff, If you join one of the BullArab groups I'm sure people there will be able to give you good advice on feeding - they would accept him as a BullArab type. I would continue to feed him large breed puppy kibble plus the raw chicken, sardines and eggs until he is at least 12 months then you could switch to a home made diet if you wish. Two chicken necks is only a treat for his adult size when he is bigger perhaps a chicken carcass each day would be better. Absolutely no problem in feeding raw chicken as long as it is stored hygienically. Frozen for at least a week before feeding and then thawed in the fridge is best. I wouldn't be walking a pup of that age 5km it could lead to joint problems later. Start with short walks and gradually lengthen them until he is walking 5km at 18 months old.

Vacuma was contacted by rescue willing to take Meg but it worked out that a friend of the family was willing to give her a home.

All sorted!

Don't panic. You have done nothing wrong - in fact you have offered to take the puppy back and refund the purchase price (as I would also have done to assure the puppy gets a better home than with this fraud) no one can expect you to do more than that. You will win if this man tries to take you to QCAT. He only changed his tune when you offered him a refund, that shows that he thinks that you are a soft touch. Don't be concerned, you have spoken to his vet and there is no record of parasites plus the fact that the pup was in his care for three weeks already before he started claiming illness and making demands also goes against him. Tell him that you are quite prepared to meet him at QCAT if he persists in his demands. Offer once more to refund the purchase price on return of the puppy and tell him that is your last offer.

And I'm told at least one rescue group is happy to take her and has contacted @Vacuna so fingers crossed f

The pic is little confusing, I think it is the angle - she actually looks to have more Silky in her than anything else. Here is an older portrait of her that shows her a bit more clearly ...

Having one each sounds good in theory, but in practice I have found that of two identical stuffed toys, one will be popular and the other ignored. I've no idea why that is!

This little sweetheart is the 12yo darling in question. I have advertised her as available to rescue groups and I will be following up to make sure that a group has taken up the offer.

I agree about needing to know what you are feeding her. Adolescent pups eat more than adults as a rule but that seems an excessive amount unless the food is really low grade, in which case most of it will be wasted just going straight through her system as coming out as poo. Different qualities of food need different amounts fed Is she being wormed every three months? Worms can eat a lot of food that is meant for your dog! It might be a bit of a long shot, but many staffys and amstaffs can be allergic to grains - have you tried feeding her a grain free kibble?

You have acted correctly. If there is a toy that they both want and won't share, take that toy away. Try to encourage them in games so that that they share toys, playing tug etc. Rope toys are very good for that.

Properly socialised Pei are an absolute delight - it is a shame that you haven't met any of those @juice

Many of the so called designer dogs (which are most definitely NOT purebred) are being bred with total disregard to health and temperament. Unfortunately, this is not rare at all/

Your best bet for a pet minder is to ask on local noticeboards or Facebook groups for recommendations. People who have had good experiences are happy to recommend their pet minders and people who have had poor experiences are equally happy to warn against the one that they had.

I can't think of a specific all breeds senior dog rescue in Victoria, such as Golden Oldies in NSW but most breed specific rescues will take seniors of their breed if they have room and so will many ethical all breed rescues.(VDR springs straight to mind!) So first try for breed rescue in the specific breed or main cross and then try the others. If you would like to PM me details of the specific senior in question I can also post it in an available to rescue FB group.

C'mon, you didn't really expect PetRescue to name an actual rescue did you? They seem to think that it would confuse "their" supporters.

You have a whole lot of wonderful advice. Breeding is not for the faint hearted, it is best to have an experienced mentor from your own or a similar breed so that you avoid unknowingly bringing puppies with health issues or shortened lives into the world. It is one thing to have a happy healthy dog and a happy healthy bitch, but unless you know all about their siblings and their parents siblings and their grandparents etc.etc. you can never be sure what the genetic dice can produce. There are some ancestors that should never be allowed to predominate by being on both sides as it will lead to problems, which is where the knowledge of your mentor is invaluable. Before considering breeding either dog or bitch, you have to be aware of all the health problems that the breed is prone to and have both potential parents tested for their own tendencies to these conditions. In a few cases, you can have DNA tests done to see if a dog or bitch are carriers of a condition, but mostly you have to have them tested and assessed by experts. Also, finding the parents' registered pedigree certificates does not mean that you will be able to pedigree the puppies. You must be an ANKC registered breeder to do that which means (as you live in Victoria) that you have to join DogsVic and be a member for at least twelve months before undertaking the breeder's exam and, if successful, registering a prefix - all of which has to be done before you mate the two.

Yes, vet first. Something is causing an irritation which makes her bite at the spot and pull hair. Chances are high that it is an allergy of some sort - the belly rash you report is probably a reaction to some sort of grass/plant encountered om her walk. Her history of flea allergy as well is all pointing the same way. You might like to consider building up her immune system by changing her to a raw diet (commercial balanced ones are available or learn to create your own) or at least to a grain free one (as grain allergies are commonly the cause of skin problems). There are quite a few brands of grain free kibble readily available.

Yes. all the questions above plus have you worked out what the trigger is? Is it when food is involved? A favourite toy or bed? Is it when your other small dog is getting attention from you or heading for you or another member of the household for attention?

I saw that! Don't forget truck tyres etc, for large dogs.

Your pup sounds a bit confused. Dogs that play keep away or chase me don't get the ball or toy thrown again for them that day. I just turn around and walk away. Start afresh the next day. When they finally bring the toy or ball back, I go over the top with delight and praise so they are 100% sure this is the way to play. It helps if you are tossing a toy a short distance (think indoors) which encourages them to bring it back to you for a repeat game. Also rewarding them with a game of tug is a very good way to get them used to bringing the toy to you.