anthony mazzeri

Did you find they lasted the advertised full 6 months before wearing off, or did they start wearing off earlier?

Dumb question, but is it possible to lock Henschke inside the house while you're away? Maybe even only one or two rooms where he'll be safe. Having your smells around him all day may reduce his anxiousness. These stories of dogs destroying laundries when they're locked in there to sleep etc sound to me like they're sending a message they don't like being isolated rather than doing it out of boredom. Trying to escape back to their humans rather than twiddling their thumbs to pass the time, so to speak.

Good lord, that sounds very serious. Certainly worth tigajess getting her pup checked out now by the vet, if anything to at least put her mind at ease that Pippa's clear. I would have just assumed just puppy settling in to new diet and surroundings in the first two weeks. Perhaps you could PM each other with your breeder's names to confirm if they are both from the same breeder. I read your other posts about Bella's breeder insisting on continuing breeding their lines that have this issue even after knowing about it. Maybe we all should know who they are.

I've concocted this list of the common flea treatments and their claims so people can compare at a glance. Product (application) - ACTIVE CHEMICAL (treats) - effect on fleas FLEA ONLY Advantage (Spot-on) - IMIDACLOPRID (fleas, lice) - kills fleas and flea larvae Frontline Plus (Spot-on) - FIPRONIL + METHOPRENE (fleas) - kills fleas, prevents eggs hatching Capstar (Oral) - NITENPYRAM (fleas) - when flea bites kills instantly Program (Oral) - LUFENURON (fleas) - when flea bites prevents eggs hatching FLEA + OTHER Advantix (Spot-on) - IMIDACLOPRID + PERMETHRIN (fleas, ticks, lice) - kills fleas and flea larvae Advocate (Spot-on) - IMIDACLOPRID + MOXIDECTIN (fleas, mites, lice, heartworm, worms) - kills fleas and flea larvae Revolution (Spot-on) - SELAMECTIN (fleas, mites, heartworm) - kills fleas and flea larvae, prevents eggs hatching Sentinel Spectrum (Oral) - LUFENURON + MILBEMYCIN OXIME + PRAZIQUANTEL (fleas, heartworm, worms) - when flea bites prevents eggs hatching The basic differences between the products from the same manufacturers: Advantix is Advantage+ticks. Advocate is Advantage+worms. Sentinel Spectrum is Program+worms. WARNING: The Permethrin in Advantix is highly toxic to cats.

Yep, just checked her records and the C5 at 16 weeks was the second one after the 12 week one (only C3 at 8/9 weeks), so the next C5 booster will be the first annual one. I never noticed any lump or even discomfort after the first one at 12 weeks. Maybe it's not as strong as the second one.

I'm going to correct what I wrote in my post above as at the time of writing three days after the injection, there was no lump. But the next day after I posted there was a lump on the side my pup, so it took a few days to develop. And got bigger over the next few days to the size of a 50¢ piece before starting to shrink, so almost ten days later now before it's gotten down to smaller than a pea. That was a C5 injection. I'm not keen on giving her a C5 booster in a year's time if she's going to have that sort of reaction to it.

Before you get your hopes up, you have to be sure it actually is cataracts, as in older dogs it might be nuclear sclerosis instead which can't be fixed with cataract surgery. If you shine a light into the eyes and there's no reflection from the back of the eye (like the red eye from a flash when taking pictures) it's a cataract. If there is reflection, it sclerosis. Also, there could be complications from the surgery and it may not work, like the chance of a detached retina which would make blindness permanent. Here's a thread about it: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=118429

It was about $2,500 per eye, way back when. Probably cheaper now.

Because of the cost, some people only get one eye fixed - seeing with one eye is better than none! The operation involves removing the clouded lens and replacing it with an artificial one. It's all done through a micro-hole in the cornea (the clear eye outer layer). The clouded lens is broken up ultrasonically and sucked out in pieces, the new lens is inserted through the tiny hole folded up and unfolded in place inside the eye. You cant even see the insert hole afterwards. One complication when I had my previous dog's eyes fixed was that he could no longer dilate his pupils which were wide open at all times even in bright sunlight. I assume the technique has been improved since then.

Took my two pooches in for their boosters last week and the vet warned me to be watchful of possible lumps from reactions to the C5 (the kennel cough part If I recall correctly), but they have both been fine. So it comes down to the individual dog as to whether they will or not get a reaction/lump. Some will get it, some won't. Your Evie clearly did, so it's a matter of whether she will get it every time she has an annual booster. PS. I only got C3 for my boy when he was a pup, but C5 at 12 months. Needed a second KC booster a month later. If he had C5 as a pup, he would have only needed the one at 12 months.

A lot of these brands have loyalty programs as well. I know Royal Canin and Orijen do. Where they mark your purchase on a card and when you've bought ten packs, you get one for free. Which equates to 10% off the total over time.

That's great to hear. Good stuff. PS. If you'd like to update your original thread with your positive results, it might help other people with the same problem in the future when doing a search of the forum.

I'd stick to C3 and give one more shot at 12 weeks. You only need KC shot if you're going into kennels. So as she will be a show dog a C3 is sufficient? From what i just read om some other threads it would be better to get a C5 or C6- as Kennel Cough like most things is going around. And I've seen many show dogs get it anyway... Better to build a strong immune system so that if they do catch it, they get over it quickly. I show mine and he's not vacc with KC and never will. The link Bubbly posted says one half of the Kennel Cough (bordatella) shot only lasts for 6 months anyway, not the full annual. But the other component of the C5 (parainfluenza) is the actual KC virus whereas the bordatella bacteria is a secondary infection making KC much more serious. So C4 with just the parainfluenza half is the way to go if not doing annually? Do all vets do C4? On my puppy card it only has either C3 or C5 listed.

That all makes perfect sense, it's like us getting shots as kids and once you have the antibodies that's it for life, so... why have the medical professional vets been recommending annual vaccinations then?

So if the first shot at 8 weeks is a C3 and the second booster one at 12-14 weeks is C5, how come the extra component of the C5 shot doesn't need a booster? Or does it, at 16-18 weeks?

PS. A clicker training solution is to hold a food treat in your closed hand and allow puppy to try and get it (which requires a pain threshold for puppy teeth!). The instant it gives up and moves its mouth away click! and release the treat. Mouth off = REWARD! And then you eventually add a command word to the action, eg 'Off". I tried this myself and it worked well, but I couldn't transfer it from hands onto feet. Going for the kill on my ugg boots was much more fun for him than any food treat reward so he ignored it even though he knew 'off" applied to hands. Lesson: don't wear soft chewy ugg boots.

I'm no expert so take what I say with a grain of salt. I can only go by what didn't work for my recent puppy (basically nothing worked, none of it, he simply grew out of it by himself eventually), and what I've researched for my next puppy. A lot of good puppy behaviour is dependent on the puppy viewing you as leader, which if the puppy is play biting you it means they don't. So the more basic training you do (sit, drop, heel etc), the more this view of you being leader will change, and so the basic training success often comes before the puppy stopping biting success. So when it seems that the puppy simply grows out of it by itself one day, it may very well be because its view of you has changed through that training etc. Which is probably what happened with mine too. It's also why puppies play bite some people but not others. And why a professional trainer can walk in and the pup will be well behaved and make you look incompetent! The puppy picks up on that 'leadership' confidence thing which comes from experience. Which for most new puppy owners means they need to develop and exude years of confidence and dog leadership experience within approximately two hours of bringing puppy home before it wakes up from its first cute nap. Impossible. Avoid any aversive techniques, which means the ones which are negative/forceful. Snout grabbing, growling, scruff grabbing, rolling, thumbs down throat, hitting, getting in their face, hard stares etc etc. You must always keep in mind that the puppy is only playing and not being mean at all, so punishing it for playing is a negative thing. They don't understand why you suddenly get aggressive during a game (eg, your own puppy is very sensitive enough to be showing fear at your negative reaction to her wanting to play because she doesn't understand). The low 'BAHH' you've been using is an aversive because it simulates an aggressive 'danger' growl. Leave that language to other dogs. Use human language. "OUCH" etc. Also, pushing the pup away in any way is just seen as part of the game from the pup's point of view. The least aversive method is the 'Time Out' recommended by Dr Dunbar and others which is to allow the puppy to bite, but when it bites too hard "OUCH!" or "AH AH!" and leave the room for a minute or two. This should also teach 'bite inhibition' which is a good thing. Basically, it's - we can play and have fun, but if you go too far, it's game over and you can go play by yourself, nyah nyah! And combine that with basic training. Your daughter can do this. Probably the same as if a boy at school is pulling her hair or teasing her, she would just storm off in a huff and and ignore him for the rest of playtime. And it takes time too. Persistence and consistence is required as success won't come in just days. Puppy biting to me is the most major issue for any new puppy owner yet it is covered least well of all the puppy topics. In even the best books it's usually only given fleeting coverage compared to other lesser issues such as house training. It causes new owners frustration (often losing tempers) and despair and it doesn't allow them to bond with their new puppy properly during a very formative period in the puppy's life. It's very difficult to bond emotionally with a snapping alligator! And how it is handled influences how the puppy will develop emotionally as it grows older. What coverage there is consists of about a dozen wildly different and varying techniques, none of which work on all puppies or breeds of differing sensitivities.

This is great to hear. A big cheer to Mark and Darren.

This thread's getting long now so I may have missed it - are there also small and medium breed puppy versions as well?

The main/majority ingredients are the ones listed up to the first oil/fat. So, roughly, and impossible to be exact without having the exact numbers which they never release (with the exception of Orijen and Ziwipeak).. Lamb Meal, Ground Brown Rice, Ground White Rice = 33%-33%-33% of the main (not total) ingredients. Turkey, brewers rice, pearled barley, chicken meal, corn gluten meal, oat meal = 16%-16%-16%-16%-16%-16% So they're both similar. One third meat/meal and two thirds cereal/filler comprise the main ingredients making up most of the total.

Have you considered the 6 month Suprelorin desexing implant? Should last the duration of your friend's stay.

www.plaqueoff.com Interesting. It's seaweed. I might try it.

I looked up the ingredients in the food you've tried, and Eukanuba Large breed has corn, sorghum and barley and that's the one you've noticed makes Olly worse. Supercoat Sensitive on the other hand only has rice which is why it may seem to be working, but Natures Gift has wheat which may be doing the same as the Eukanuba, so it could be a matter of two steps forward one step back when feeding both. So it might be worth trying just stop feeding the Natures Gift altogether while waiting for the Orijen to arrive and see if there's any improvement. Anna's suggestion of Holistic Eagle Pack for sensitive skin dry food (sardines & rice variety) would be the same as the Supercoat Sensitive. So there's a strong hint there from the manufacturers - both are for sensitive skin and both only use rice instead of corn/sorghum/wheat/barley. Good luck, let us know if a change in diet actually helps as it could help other people with the same problem. Edit: Just followed your links and see the Eagle Pack actually has some oatmeal as well. I'd go with the Orijen and just remove any and all cereal/grain altogether. PS. You actually feed much less of Orijen so the protein balances out. Follow the feeding instructions on the pack as a starting point.

If you think Olly is reacting to grasses, then logically it may be worth trying removing the grass-related cereal/grains from his food as well. Orijen kibble has no grain in it whatsoever and a few Weimaraner owners on here have switched their pooches over to it.

My cat did the exact reverse to my dog when presented with a bowl of Royal Canin and a bowl of Orijen next to each other for the 'taste test' when I got some sample packs. Cat turned his nose up at the Orijen leaving it completely untouched while gobbling up all his usual RC Maine Coon instead. Dog gobbled up the Orijen and ignored the RC Medium Junior he'd been eating up to that point, then walked away leaving the RC completely untouched. Both literally ate all the kibble in one bowl while not touching a single piece of the other kibble in the other bowl. Could have made a TV commercial out of both of them for both brands. PS. Orijen tinned cat food I'd like to try, but tinned food is too hard for them to import into Australia, so they don't, I think.