Aidan

That's good to hear, thanks for the clarification. You did mention changing to a martingale so it wasn't clear that it was working out for you, so I thought I'd offer a solution.

The Gentle Leader comes with an excellent instructional DVD that explains correct fitting, correct desensitisation, and correct use. Unfortunately, like most instruction manuals, hardly anyone bothers to watch it. It's a shame, because I maintain we would not see the problems we see with them if they did. So I agree with your sentiment, good instruction leads to good use.

I can tell you, Anissa has the best dressed dogs in Hobart

As pf has pointed out, retractable on a head halter is not a good combination. Timing of correction is very important, all dogs will feel the correction but unless it provides them with enough information to figure out what they are supposed to be doing, the correction will be ineffective ("nagging"). A martingale will not solve this problem for you, only good instruction, good timing and perhaps more than anything else consistency will. If she is strong enough to injure you, then you need leverage. A head halter can provide this leverage, as can a front-attaching harness. One good way to use these tools is to use a double-ended leash attached at the other end to a flat collar. This way you can transition to the flat collar more easily and are only using the tool when required. Use rewards when she is in the correct position. Define what "correct position" means first, so that you are absolutely sure what to reward.

Don't complicate matters, this person has a serious issue. It does not sound like an issue that would require medication, so a veterinary behaviourist would be sufficient but not necessary. Exactly, the issue is serious and what complicates the situation is the amount of trainers claiming to be behaviourists that haven't undergone any formal study in behavioural sciences is my whole point...............you can't see that Aidan??? I have two perspectives. I am currently completing a degree in Behavioural Science and have a great appreciation for what a formal education can bring to a person as a professional, and as a person. But I was competent with behaviour problems like this before I enrolled in university, with no formal qualifications to speak of. Other trainers, vets and former clients were happy to refer this sort of case to me then and now. Word of mouth will usually find you a competent dog trainer, especially if you ask here. Let's not derail this thread - we're not going to change the situation that currently exists in Australia and this is not the place to discuss it. There is another thread already created for that.

It's a web application. You can make one yourself, you just type in the script and use some of the pre-set animated characters. I'm not even sure who is making these ones, one of those facebook friends I don't really know. They usually involve "in-jokes", here is one for anyone who likes lifting weights: (language warning)

http://www.abc.net.au/4corners/content/2008/s2252948.htm

Kind of like a pet peeve, something that gets up your nose.

Any of the trainers and behaviourists who post here would be able to help, there seem to be plenty in Vic.

Best to get some professional help. Where are you located? PM if preferred.

Wouldn't the same issues apply for trainers?

Don't complicate matters, this person has a serious issue. It does not sound like an issue that would require medication, so a veterinary behaviourist would be sufficient but not necessary.

You almost certainly won't punish it effectively, and you run the very real risk of making matters worse by trying I'm afraid. I'm not sure if you've ever just walked off, but it would be interesting to see what happens and would give a clue about the problem. Obviously if anyone is at risk of being seriously hurt it is better to break them up, but if it's just pinning to the ground then walking off might be your best course of action. In any case, getting in a behaviourist now would be money well spent. How you handle sudden changes can have a big effect on the situation and a behaviourist will be able to assess your dogs and make informed recommendations.

They are proud of it, they want to show it off and justify it.

More like gladiators, who also gave no consent and were forced to fight for their lives.

I've got a lot of suggestions but they are a bit hard to convey on a forum. Do you play tug or fetch or other games with her that require control while she is in drive?

I agree with corvus, consult with a veterinary behaviourist. Anti-anxiety drugs might be very useful here.

"Dog Trainer Hotline" http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/8092677

I've not had one break, but test it by putting a ring in it and twisting it against the latch at a bunch of angles.

Get a really good carabiner, I had a brass carabiner which was pretty easy to twist a ring through. A client's dog came loose in class recently, same problem. They should have no free play and a strong spring.

That's why I say "Dog training and behaviour modification", and recommend a veterinary opinion first in all cases (for reactive and aggressive dogs). That said, of all the appalling things I have seen trainers do to dogs, all the misguided and dangerous practices, and never have I seen anyone haul one of these trainers before the courts to make them accountable. The only cases I know of were cases where the trainer did nothing wrong, but was sued anyway (e.g recommending in writing that the dog is PTS, but sued for not making the case strongly enough).

I'm not doubting your recommendation, but I'm just wondering why you would make this distinction? (I have some ideas, but I'm interested in your answer).

I love reading Lindsay. I'm a sick, sick man.

Yeah the little bastard.... Wouldn't you say that its still ignoring though, a known command (Come), basically a STFU to whatever I've said, I'm gonna make you chase me instead yayyy? I doubt that he's putting much thought into it, but dogs do do what works for them. Unfortunately we tend to assume they think it through, and that can frustrate us because it leads us to believe they are "ignoring" us or being "stubborn" or a whole bunch of things that don't motivate dog behaviour. Does that make sense? You've got a lot of options, but the simplest is just going back to basics and conditioning the response you want, set him up for success. Then there is no confusion and it really won't take long. It really is that simple, hard as that may be for many to believe

No-one has said that, what they have said is that the odds are against you if that is the choice you make. BTW, taking aspirin involves risk management too. If you fit a certain profile, the risk of not taking it outweighs the risks of taking it. So no, I didn't take an aspirin today ;) I'm 33 and I play a lot of sport. Can I tempt you with a beer then You twisted my arm...