Jumabaar

I agree with what the others are saying. I regularly had people cancel, but didn't know if it was just the way the lady who had run it organised it all...... Half are dogs where people actually want to be there and see their dog groomed because they think its the better option than a salon (their reasoning not mine), the other half wanted you to come out because they were too lazy to actually take their dog anywhere. Often the comment as I took the dog off the owner was that the dog had not been off the property since the last grooming visit....

Nothing wrong for an experienced owner to take on without children who are already fearful...... The wrong dog in this situation is going to do more damage than the same dog in a home full of confident individuals.... I was just indicating that in this specific circumstance there are some options are better than others. Look at the OP, we are trying to help them get the best possible dog for their situation, its not about them meeting the locals...

Make sure you have good insurance ;) I enjoyed the work but I was a subcontractor and was being ripped off.

I wouldn't be buying a rescue through the paper. I think perhaps looking at a rescue group that fosters their dogs for a number of weeks before rehoming would be a great start. You could take your children to visit a few times and talk to them about how they feel about the dog without pressure. You will also have a good idea of the temperament from an unbiased source (the only reason I say don't get one from the paper is that past owners are not unbiased), There are also breed specific rescue, or perhaps an ex show dog if your want something pure bred.

This is what I do with my Maremmas each week. It blows all the dirt out of them too. Don't use a Coat King. They cut the coat too much and it grows back spikey. Unfortunately it's just one of those things with some dogs. My female Maremma doesn't shed a great deal but the male sheds everywhere, constantly. I agree with this- about the dryer and the coat king. I will also add that I turn the dryer onto the house and blow dog hair out of my carpet- making it easier for the vacuum to pick it up :)

A coat still sheds when clipped. The difference is the hairs are spiky short and annoying when they come out!!

Perhaps ring up and talk to Christine Hawk or shoot her an email. She is a lovely vet who would probably be able to give a better recommendation that anyone on here. And I have found her easy to talk to and willing to share information! http://www.sydneypetdentistry.com.au/

Is that me or is that a very crappy article. It seemed to cover a number of topics, all of them badly, and then not come to a point?? I assume that the author is Pro BSL, but wanted to write an unbiased article??? If thats the case they failed So point one Looking at dogs gives owner an oxytocin release point two bull terriers are dangerous but owners can't see that they are vicious because of the oxytocin? (Although the writer did manage to see these dogs without incident and said that the owner was responsible and the dogs were not aggressive) point three pit bulls are bad and council is wiping them out point four you can't change instinct or behaviour with breeding over time (where are these experts when we have a working kelpie Vs show kelpie debate!!!) point five bull terriers (I assume research ended after they wrote down the breed name) attack bulls point six Staffords look like pit bulls but one man likes his one, but other people are scared because it looks scary. but if you bring them up well that they can be nice dogs (I assume a good writer at this point would link back to point one and four but they didn't) point seven bad people want to buy breeds that look tough and then actively make the dog reactive/dangerous point seven only responsible people should own these dogs........ Um no shit sherlock!! So what was the point. Is the article saying that people should have them and people that say that they are good dogs are only riding a hormone high? Or that they can be good dogs? And what breed was this actually about? Sigh

OK freezing meat at -10°C for 10 days will remove the risk of dogs eating viable cysts. (although another site says -20 for 20 days so I think its just safe to say the longer the better). As an aside..... hydatid cysts in the offal (internal organs) of sheep, cattle, kangaroos and pigs In cattle, approximately 10% of hydatid cysts are viable, and these cysts usually die within a few months. In sheep and kangaroos however, most cysts are viable and continue to grow throughout the life of the animal. Older sheep in particular may have very large cysts. Cysts contain many capsules, with each capsule containing up to 40 hydatid heads. Each head is capable of developing into an adult tapeworm in the intestine of a dog. Also we are only at risk of hydatidosis if it is caught via the dog- so in this particular instance it would be quite safe for US to eat all those substances so I think keeping the food in the same freezer but separated (and I say separated coz I have defrosted dog food for my dinner once and decided going hungry was the better option ) would be suitable. Feeding any form of offal (from kangaroo, sheep, cattle or pigs) without treatment means that you have to worm your dog every 6 weeks.

Is freezing safe in this case?( I keep pet meat in the bottom drawer of the freezer. Human food starts 2 drawers above) I'm not certain if freezing completely kills hydatids or not. Personally I wouldn't risk it. Hydatid is deadly to humans and not something to take lightly. My Dad, grandad, and several uncles were all butchers or meat inspectors. None of them would have roo meat in the same fridge as food for humans. I worked for a pet warehouse some years ago that sold roo and other pet meats and still went and bought human grade meat for my dogs from a butcher. Freezing does defiantly kill hydatids- after 8 20minute presentations on this same topic I can assure you freezing works. There is however a minimum time that it needs to be frozen for, and at a certain maximum temperature. I know there has been a thread in the past where I had the exact details about temp and time but for the life of me I can't remember off the top of my head what they were Damn holidays filling my head with cobwebs. I am happy to look it up tomorrow if no one pops in and answers before me. My dogs get roo- but I control their weight with VAN atm. I tend to be an 'everything in moderation feeder' so they get raw meat, bones, veggies, van, kibble and I will have a look at this new product too. I like kibble to be in their diet for macro and micronutrients because we lack some in Australian soils (sorry once again memory fail on which ones) but mostly because I take the dogs away and kibble is easier and less smelly than roo lmao. I can stack on about 2 kilos on a kelpie doing fitness training for flyball through them stealing VAN, and the same little bitch put on three kilos when she opened a door and got into the kibble (even after being made to vomit!). Each to their own with regards to food IMO;)

I agree about using saline water and not being too worried about touching the stitches. Abby's pups were very rough on them after her section!! (Needless to say after her desexing she was very happy to wake up with no tiny tots attached lmao)

Every home full of working dogs needs a princess. They make even the laziest dog look like a worker bee! I love the sound of Safire, I reckon her and Dusty could probably share a palace together as long as they could have a separate wing, each with their own turret. Totally- she tried flyball, agility, herding and obedience. And she managed to worm her way out of every restraint (fences, harness collar etc) and either end up watching from the car or squirming into someones crate- hers, or the poor cavalier (who was still resident in the crate tiny tiny crate) if its open then it is clearly an invitation for the Princess. She loooooooves hopping in the car and going places..... Not so much the doing. She is a great cuddle pot too!! I am glad someone understands- most people just say I should stop being lazy and train her, or that she is not a very good kelpie- I happen to think she is just very very very smart and knows what she wants! She also likes to paw dogs on the head- looks so regal (and condescending ) When it comes down to it, they really are the easiest of dogs to live with. Dusty is demanding only of my pats and cuddles, she has no desire to be doing anything particularly active, and if she doesn't get walked for a few days/weeks/months then she doesn't care. She's never destroyed anything in her life, and not being exercised doesn't turn her into a she-devil. She is extraordinarily well-behaved and would rather die than do something naughty. She has a very expressive face and you can usually read her feelings on her face. I tried to teach her some tricks.....we got "touch" down pat, she can now touch her nose to my hand; she can walk backwards, although what use that's going to be I have no idea. Then I tried to teach her to roll over. She couldn't see the point and her whole facial expression read "This is bloody stupid, I can do this whenever I feel like it without you telling me to!" So we abandoned that trick. I couldn't agree more. I feel sorry for people who have never had the joy of a princess!! They don't know what they have missed. I wish I had some nice photos of Safire, but this thread has made me realise that because she isn't 'doing' things she often gets missed- I have sooo many photos of my other dogs but only three very average ones of her..... My project for this month is going to be to get a few nice photos of my girl. Thank you for reminding me what makes my girl so amazing!!

I would want to pick up my pup at 8 weeks of age. That being said I am likely as a breeder to hold pups back till older depending on who they are going to...... So people that ask for their pup at 8 weeks for training purposes would probably get it. Mostly because I like to hold off on vaccinations.

My dogs do flyball and obedience and I hope to be doing agility in the future- they all are trained to perform without a crate ;) . I do depend on the crates at home when there is something that I consider unsafe because once something is 'done' it can't be undone. They are very polite and generally spend 90% of the day asleep on the bed, or in open crates. The dog that bit the whippersnapper and took off all its bottom incisors was 8 years old and had always been out with them while they did gardening...... They don't know why it suddenly decided after 8 years to try and take a bite but they felt bloody guilty that they didn't put the dog away. Same with the dog that took out the chain saw- he had lived on a building site and had been around lots of loud moving equipment but decided to take out the this particular piece of equipment. I own kelpies that like to help, but if they see a fly they will chase it and not look where they are going.... So for me the risk when I am using the lawn mower/whipper snipper is too great. Crates give me peace of mind. My dogs all snooze while I vacuum because there is no risk of them being hurt- but I wouldn't make the same decision with some random opening up gates on the property, even though they all have gate and door manners. Its just not worth the risk regardless of how well trained they are. Do you walk your dog near a road/motorway for example with a leash? I do- it doesn't mean they pull or behave badly but I don't want a random incident to mean my dogs end up under a car. I think of the crate as the same thing. One of my dogs was a car chaser and now does not even LOOK at cars but that one in particular is crated before I have trades people come in because I am not one to test my training when it risks my dogs life, just as she does not have off lead rights within cooooeeee of a road, even though she has not chased a car in 6 years. (NB car chasing occurred on lead). When there is a safety concern my dogs get crated... when its a training issue my dogs get trained. Also just because they are in a crate doesn't mean you don't do training- my dogs had to be trained not to bark at tradies- they got treats for being calm etc, just like you would have done with your dog. If I don't have a crate in these situations I tether my dog because once again their safety is paramount, and they know a bed on the ground means the same thing as a crate. So often they don't even realise they are tethered lol. Just like they hardly realise the crate door is open or locked. IMO- no ones ideal dog is scared of fireworks....... but sometimes you deal with what you get

I am surprised you would say that - I thought it was common practice to give anti-inflammatories after any surgeries these days? I know my dog got them after a dental with extractions. Not seen anti-inflammatories used!, but anti-biotics - yes. But even if its a routine spey there should be no need for AB"S Agree- that there usually isn't need for ABs but Anti-inflammatories are used very very very commonly after a Spay. They both help at the wound site and give pain relief so are an invaluable medication unless contraindicated (by what happened in the surgery or the dogs prior condition) so I would actually probably question a vet that didn't use them rather than be surprised by one who did. One of my girls was her normal self after 12hrs, the other one was a little mopy but had bounced back after 24hrs. I kept them crated or on the lounge with me for 2 days, by day three they were given house free range of the house but were supervised outside to make sure they didn't run around and I started them both on quiet walks on day three as well. I just chose routs that I knew didn't have dogs that would bark at them.

Every home full of working dogs needs a princess. They make even the laziest dog look like a worker bee! I love the sound of Safire, I reckon her and Dusty could probably share a palace together as long as they could have a separate wing, each with their own turret. Totally- she tried flyball, agility, herding and obedience. And she managed to worm her way out of every restraint (fences, harness collar etc) and either end up watching from the car or squirming into someones crate- hers, or the poor cavalier (who was still resident in the crate tiny tiny crate) if its open then it is clearly an invitation for the Princess. She loooooooves hopping in the car and going places..... Not so much the doing. She is a great cuddle pot too!! I am glad someone understands- most people just say I should stop being lazy and train her, or that she is not a very good kelpie- I happen to think she is just very very very smart and knows what she wants! She also likes to paw dogs on the head- looks so regal (and condescending )

She would get along with Safire- Princess and ruler of all Kelpies (so long as she can sit in her crate and supervise everyone else working hard and no one shakes close to her and spatters her with mud!) Dusty is gorgeous I love the picture on the bench!

Toothmarks in the wall add character.... Honest And I am sure no one would notice bits of skirting board missing lmao

Yup this is very true!!

I also suggest ringing up and talking to a vet. It is quite possible that your will be able to start treatment without a test so long as you get on top of it now. Leaving it another month or two will mean that you will defiantly have to test/ and worst case senario go through treatment!!

I introduced my last litter of pups to crates at about 5/6weeks of age I think. All their toys got put in them and their bedding and I played games with them in the crates etc. They didn't get the door shut on them for about a week and a half I think, they started off in pairs then went down to one/crate. By the time they left my house they were all sleeping happily overnight in their crates, put themselves in their crate when they were tired (if the others were still playing I would shut but not lock the door so they couldn't be bothered by the others) and generally thought of them as a pretty great place to be. I just looked in my bedroom- one dog on the bed, one on the floor, two pups sharing a 36 inch crate and another in a 48 inch crate- all their choice!! Mine don't get locked in crates overnight once they are past the chewing stage. One pup still gets popped in the crate of a morning until she has pooped as I don't have time to supervise her so she gets a chance to go to the toilet every 15-20 minutes then gets her freedom once she remembers to go!! At this point in time she might take three tries to go but it has improved her house manner immeasurably! Other times I use a crate- After surgery When tradies visit (so I don't have to worry about open gates or doors) When I am gardening so they don't help with the lawn mower etc When I expect a parcel to be delivered so they don't scare the postie At dog shows, flyball, agility training, herding and at training for these events. I also use it for feeding bones so I can watch them all easily and so no one feels the need to rush My crates all have waterbowls hanging in them that can easily be refilled. Crates are what you make of them. Crating a dog for most of its life is cruel. Using a crate as a method of keeping your dog safe physically and mentally is not!!

I would be getting something that the dogs can ride in the car in the Air con with you. But I would also be looking at something that can tow a trailer anyway, so you can eventually have your gear in a trailer and make room for more dogs in the car!!

Only one dog left to enter- and finally found the piece of paper I wrote the membership number on before lodging titles to Dogs NSW lmao.

Squeeeee!!

I pay about $17 for 5kg of roo at a pet shop so it might be possible to source it cheaper. I also use chicken from a cheap chicken shop, but I also keep an eye out in woolies for discounts as their meat is about to go out of date- picked up some good bargains that way :)