Jumabaar

http://www.veterinarydentalcenter.com/pediatric.htm (picture of what to look for if you decide not to do anything) http://www.veterinarydentalcenter.com/open-extraction.htm http://www.mypetsdentist.com/site/view/113061_brokenteeth.pml (Picture of this down the bottom of the page in the link) http://www.dentistvet.com/tooth-breaks-and-fractures.html

sigh

OT- how do you people manage to break teeth and not have pain?!?!! I must be soooo unlucky with my teeth! ETA- I did consider the GA necessary because I do know the pain a sore tooth can cause. All I can suggest is talking to a vet who really does know a fair amount about teeth and done their own research on it.

I can only go on what the specialist (in training) told me, And what I have been studying. Most general practice vets will recommend leaving them because they don't have the skills to take them out, and because dentistry really hasn't been addressed in their training. Its something to talk about with a specialist, not their general vet. All the veterinary dentists I have spoken to about this topic have indicated that removal is necessary- so I am just passing on the experts opinion..... (I was told they would fail me in their subject if I didn't take my pup in for the surgery ) I guess I am recommending best practice because its what I would do with my dogs. I did end up seeing the difference after my pup had her fractured tooth removed- she had lost her spark but it was not apparent till she had it back. I am glad I didn't just leave it because she has a perfect canine and she was not in pain for any longer than I could help it.

Thats actually rather cruel. Talk to someone who has broken a tooth and ask how much pain they were in..... Why is it because your dog can't tell you it has a headache that its ok to leave them in pain because that is what you are doing when you don't get dental care when a dog breaks a tooth!

You need to be very VERY aware of your surroundings at all times and be prepared to step in front of the dog and tell people to back off if need be. Use your body to block 'scary' people (place yourself between the threat and your dog), do not place the dog in a situation where she will feel cornered. Keep your distance. Approaching a dog from behind is just plain bad manners, particularly at a dog club where people should know better... Something like this may help a little: http://www.k9pro.com...s-DT-WORKS.html http://www.k9pro.com...s-DT-WORKS.html I like the look of the harness! and you can get whatever badge you want! I don't think a muzzle is a good idea, she is not a biter I actually found a muzzle the perfect tool to make people give me space with my dog. It really makes people stop and think before approaching, giving you time to take control of the situation. The dog doesn't know that the muzzle is anything to care about!! Doesn't matter if the dog actually NEEDS a muzzle IMO if it needs space then the muzzle can be a great human conditioning tool lol.

That just tells me he isn't well trained yet :) It becomes unnecessarily difficult to train a dog if you suspect he's challenging you, you stop addressing the actual problem (not listening, jumping up) and chase after the imagined problem (challenging, status-seeking) instead. A spade is a spade. I definitely agree Aidan2 that he isn't trained yet, far from it actually. I don't think we are chasing the imagined problem, but I could be wrong. Initially we had no idea that what he was doing was a sign of dominance, leaning against our legs, sleeping in doorways where we had to step over him, allowing his to be in front of us on the lead ect. We now know to push him out of the way if he leans on us, shuffle so he moves out of our way instead of stepping over him, ensure he is always beside or behind us on the lead… I think this is addressing the actual issue not perceived, but honestly I don’t know anymore what is right and what is wrong. I feel like we have completely failed him other than keeping him well fed and safe in a good home that genuinely cares for him. But we are trying our hardest to turn it around, please if you have any suggestions let me know as we will try anything. These to me are not dominance issues- I like my dogs to remain down if I step over them/move around them because it makes it easier with my elderly grandparents to move around without a dog jumping out of the way. They sleep in doorways so they can follow me if I leave the room and because there is usually a nice cool draft there. Pulling on lead is because there is fun stuff in front and leaning in mine means they want a pat. They generally have to sit or paw to get the pat because I know they want it so I make them work for it. I don't think you have a dominant dog- I think you have a dog that doesn't know the rules. Don't worry so much about what is/isnt dominant and look at what behaviour suits and doesn't suit you. Pulling on lead doesn't suit me so I teach my dogs to walk on a loose lead but I don't care where they are in front, behind or beside so long as the lead is loose.

Just on the time out- when my dogs go into time out they don't come back out until they are calm. If they start bouncing again as soon as they are out then they go back into time out! I use a crate for my time out sessions- these time outs are not seen as punishment by the dogs because I have done lots of crate training so they see the crate as a fun place to be! They eventually learnt that really silly play means that they end up in the crate so they have stopped being so silly because they want to keep playing! Instead of the dog park you could try an obedience club. You don't need Duke to say hello to the other dogs you need to get him to learn to be in control around them and not think that seeing another dog means its a free for all. By teaching him to listen to you in the presence of other dogs and that he doesn't always get to go play you might have more vocal control over Duke so YOU can control how rough he plays and be in control instead of relying on other dogs to regulate his behaviour. AKA being able to recall him in any situation will allow you to do time outs and also give you a chance to reward good behaviour! I agree that you need to talk to a new trainer who talks more about you being a good leader for Duke and guiding him towards making the right decisions rather than relying on other people/dogs to do the training. Another 'in the mean time' training method might be NILIF (nothing in life is free). Which you should be able to google this. It means that they have to DO something to get anything they want. This gives you lots of opportunities to reward good behaviour and allows you to put in some boundaries so Duke is not confused about what is and isn't allowed. If he wants a toy he has to sit calmly, if he wants his dinner you can get him to drop etc.

I needs to come out- but probably needs someone experienced. Here is the link to my experience http://www.dolforums.com.au/topic/222581-fractured-tooth/

When I was working in a specialist practice we had quite a few large breed dogs in. I think they did much better at recovery than the little ones because their owners took the rehab so seriously!! Your girl is already well conditioned and you have heaps of different methods of working her mind when she is recovering, and working her body once you start building her back up. So I think she is lucky to be recovering under your care and guidance :)

AKC allows it. I don't think anyone here on DOL is supporting the breeding of Merle to Merle. But be aware- Dalmatian, Bull Terriers and Cattle Dogs have higher risks of deafness linked to their excessive levels of white. This could be construed by outside people as breeders ignoring health problems because of looks/colouring. Even if breeders are routinely testing the pups and selecting to use only hearing normal dogs. The OP linked to a site that is calling for the AKC to "act" against homozygous merle AND it's offspring. No matter if the dogs in question can see or hear. *edited for grammar* I was responding to Pav;s post. and justifying what my issue was. I made it quite clear that I dont think its the AKC's responsibility to hold breeders hands, we should be the ones making ethical decisions in our breeding programs- so I was questioning the ethics of the people who used the stud dog over bitches to produce the dogs in question, instead of them using studs from more ethical breeders. There are people who regularly breed cattle dogs that are deaf and have made no attempt at all to try and breed away from this- I do actually believe that they are unethical too in their breeding because they are aiming for looks/colouring. And I compare them to what the sires breeder did. So yeah I guess even from the inside I do see breeders ignoring health problems because of looks/colouring- and I chose to support breeders who do their best to ensure every pup in the litter is as healthy as possible. No breeder can garuntee that all pups will live long healthy lives but the ehtical ones try their best!

Well looks like I will be there both days on the Flyball stand!! I will try and wear my hat with my name (Jaime) on it and I will have at least one chocolate kelpie with me! The second monster will either be Demi the Finnish Lapphund or another Kelpie so feel free to say hello!! I must admit I am generally too shy to randomly walk up to people and ask if they are on DOL lol.

I only have an issue with the breeder who knowingly bred the merle to merle knowing that there are health problems associated with this that can be avoided by breeding to a solid colour. I also question people that support this breeder. Which I think is what most people are commenting on. I am not fussed on Westminster, or the judges awarding those dogs. They were the best dogs from the results so they got invited. Does it perpetuate the problem- maybe but since dog showing is all about the dog in front of the judge you would need to change showing to change that and I don't think thats necessary. But it wouldn't be a problem in the first place if people didn't breed knowing there was a higher degree of health risks. If merle to merle had no health risks I would say go for it and be merry!

Oh Yes, I can vouch for this method, it paid huge dividends when we were travelling so our dobe would toilet exactly where we wanted. I also get a giggle when my husband walks around with our dobe going "do wees" :laugh: I agree with this. In all honesty Demi (who is related to your pup) managed to hold on quite well from the beginning. I really can't remember having any issues training her which I am guessing means there were very few accidents. She went out when she woke up and after her meal. Just watch for the first few days to see if she likes to wee once, twice or three times before she is finished Demi ALWAYS went three times so once you know that you have to count to three before letting them back in you shouldn't find it all too difficult to keep track of.

Exactly. I wish it would become part of the COE - breed merle to merle and you're out of the AKC/ANKC. Breeding deaf & blind puppies can't ever be for the betterment of the breed. I wonder why the stud was originally bred? Pretty colours perhaps? I do find it a little concerning that someone went and bred a merle to merle litter because of the number of health risks involved. I personally would not be giving them money from using their stud to allow them to continue doing this type of breeding. I believe in supporting ethical breeders and I don't believe merle to merle is an ethical choice to make....

Flyball is where the toys usually are (A comp was already scheduled to take place tomorrow). They are working out ring placements to make it all work. But please do try and pass on to all toy exhibitors that they won't be under cover so if it looks wet they will have to bring their gazebos!! ETA- I have never had a problem at castle hill and have shown on some pretty horrid days (with Kelpies so weather doesn't stop me). They drain exceptionally well!! This show doesn't start till 5pm. I'm guessing flyball should be finished by then? Is it an evening show?? Oops- flyball starts at 2:30, racing starts at 3:30 as its an evening comp!! So a full clash :) Guessing both committees were worried about the hot feb weather. Feel free to pop up and say hello!!

Flyball is where the toys usually are (A comp was already scheduled to take place tomorrow). They are working out ring placements to make it all work. But please do try and pass on to all toy exhibitors that they won't be under cover so if it looks wet they will have to bring their gazebos!! ETA- I have never had a problem at castle hill and have shown on some pretty horrid days (with Kelpies so weather doesn't stop me). They drain exceptionally well!!

This- I am more than happy to support farmers and meat and livestock australia while they are trying to make things work. (Just the same as I support ethical breeders and still buy pups). I am another who won't give up meat and I am not ashamed about it. I do follow the research being done in this area because it was maybe is an area that I am interested in working. Where were the vets when all this was happening btw??

I have had an ADULT come into my yard- disregarding the warning sign to go to the front door because there may be dogs loose. I do have a dog that is fear aggressive- but he is behind two fences which I thought was enough to keep him safe. When I rang up and blasted the individual they said it was fine because they couldn't see a dog loose and all dogs like him . Yup I was told by someone that had never met the dog that I needn't worry. Had I caught him in the act and heard that I can tell you that he would have ended up in hospital from ME attacking him!! I didn't particularly care about the individual but I didn't want my poor dog traumatised by some random invading his safe zone without me there to guide him!! A dog may have been asleep or anything and he didn't even shut the gaits properly behind him so when I did let the dogs out I nearly lost them out both gates. But I was told that couldn't possibly have been him, he always shuts gaits behind him- since the gaits have never magically opened before or after this individual violated my home I somehow don't believe him. My dog growing up scared the bejeebus out of my next-door neighbour who was only in his early teens. He jumped the fence to retrieve his ball and Kala just held his hand- there were no marks or anything but he didn't move until my grandfather heard him yelling. As soon as we came out she let his hand go and his parents told him that he went into the dogs territory and since there was no harm he had learnt his lesson. I can only imagine if this happened in todays society!

When do entries open?? I think I will jump in for both depending on how Abby picks up a third position for HTM. Now for music I have been looking alllllll week and still nothing!

MEEEEE!! Although wasn't brave enough to camp like I usually do lol

I would say its not too late to go out and attend some sporting trials with your bitch and the pup to maybe generate some interest just as an observer. That said I agree with the others that not to many people in dog sports are looking for a pup right now. Good luck!

I feed raw meat, bones veggies etc but I also give my Kelpies Vet All Natural Complete Mix- and so far its the only thing that really makes my pups keep condition without needing to dramatically increase the quantity I am feeding. Although unlike your dogs mine never walk away from food

I have been to both clinics although haven't done frozen AI. They were both easy to work with. I did a fresh AI at QH- they get very busy so unless you are first in there is usually a bit of waiting around until you have seen. Vets were very competent. Bowral- I had Prog tests done. They did well getting blood from my bitch (who knows exactly what a needle is lol), got my results back to me in a timely manner and there was no waiting around.

I had to leave my crew for a fortnight and missed them like crazy. I am currently planning on spending a month away next year and don't know how I will cope!!