Jumabaar

dehydration- which may not be apparent to everyone. Electrolytes become unbalanced quickly with both vomiting and diarrhoea which can cause other problems Both those are enough- if it continued for me to take my dog to the vet and have it put on a drip. My dogs don't automatically go to the vet if they vomit or have diarrhoea- if they do both then I am READY to take them to the vet and make sure they are supervised. I have taken one dog to the vet as soon as I noticed vomiting because she was severely off colour and I had been out for a couple of hours so had no idea how long she had been ill for. Another dog went to the vet with similar symptoms and was on pancreatitis watch for 48hrs. My dogs do vomit and have loose stools but if they are bright and bouncy and its a one off then it shouldn't be a cause for alarm/trip to the vet. The biggest problem with the internet is that we can't actually see the dog- so I generally say go to the vet 90% of the time because you don't know if the situation is worse than being described. Also will the average owner know if the mucous membranes are tacky (indication of dehydration) what the capillary refill time is, heart rate and temperature? I check all those before I go to the vet but I don't expect joe blow to know how to do it- so better to have them checked by a professional. The pup keeping water down to me in this situation made me think that it was probably ok to watch and wait- not being able to keep water down + vomiting + diarrhoea is another of those 'off to the vet' signs. Glad your pup is doing better CB!!

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I would love to get into this- but I only own scardy dogs that don't DOOOOO water!! I might have some more luck with the pups but I won't hold my breath!! Kinda tempted to rock up and see some of the action though.....

Has she had anything to drink since then?

Sigh- why is it the people that own loud dogs go to all the effort to keep their dogs contained and quiet who have irresponsible neighbours with quiet (little) dogs who make the big dogs bark!! My neighbour can be out the back when her dog does it and she makes no effort to move it away or reprimand it and her kids goad it on!! I don't want a noise complaint but its sucks that my dogs have to be locked in the house unless I can supervise them- well its really only one that needs supervising but its still a pain. Its really impossible to fix easily without both sides doing something about the problem. I have neighbours with rotties and they are great- we both go out and tell the dogs off if they start fence running so the problem on that side is just about solved!!

I was hosing my own dogs for fence running (my solution when I was on crutches with a cast on my foot!) which solved the problem of my dogs barking- but it turned out I was wetting the dog on the other side which ended up with the neighbour being quite abusive. I didn't realise it was getting wet through the fence so stopped. Since I stopped hosing I have managed to keep better control of my dogs (and built a second fence) but their little blighter now throws itself at the fence if hears any movement on my side! I am quite sure if I went back to dousing everyone near the fence (their side and mine) that once again the problem would be eliminated. Perhaps you could try some desensitisation of the other dog by making noise (with your dog in the house) then using an aversive noise when it comes near the fence??

There was something on Facebook about them having an open day on ANZAC day! Not sure about cross posting but this was the email supplied [email protected] Kelly Messenger

My dog does this type of behaviour when she wants attention. I don't mind a little bit of scratching and playing but if she gets noise I walk out of the room and ignore her- no eye contact at all- until she settles. It might not be the same with your dog but its easy enough to try a few times to see if it works.

It doesn't matter how much you love this bitch and how good her temperament may be, she may not have the conformation to be a brood bitch. Why would you de sex on vets say so when the vet may not be fully qualified to diagnose this condition. Maybe if you told us how this bitch has been fed we may be able to help you more as diet plays a big part in the bone development. :) You can't show her in neuter class!!!! She has a fault that without repair would be disqualifyable. That means that you have surgically altered the dog to make it be able to show, against the rules and ethically wrong. Im really sorry for you, you are going to have to come to the same realisation that we did with our bitch that had the same problems. She too was bought as a foundation bitch, and we were devastated when it occured, but you have to come to terms with the fact that her show career no matter what class is OVER, as is breeding her, and as you are getting her desexed you are being responsible and realise this. We have known of situations where a responsible breeder has replaced dogs that have the same issues, and your breeder may do the same, and give you the chance of your breeding and showing dreams, but with this bitch its game over. I'm only new to showing - is it the part in the Diseases and Abnomalities (Section 17 in the Dogs NSW rules on shows) that says "normal development" that this is covered under? (where you mentioned it is against the rules) It explicitly talks about contagious diseases but nothing like this. Does this mean that every exhibitor should be able to produce a certificate that the dog is clear if it is common in the breed? I am actually a little confused as well. Since I have seen the SC's bitch and she is unsymptomatic so she can certainly be shown without any surgical alteration and still be sound. SC I am guessing Tibby thought that to be have a sound dog you would have to operate to correct it and that you would then show which I think there is a rule about.

I agree about a second opinion! Even if you don't go down the path of surgery I would suggest doing some form of management for the dog. The Patella sits in a groove that is formed by the pressure the patella being pushed into the underlying bone by the ligament. The bigger the dog the more pressure that is placed simply due the load being carried by the joint. In light weight dogs there is not a lot of pressure so if the ligament is loose there is not as much pressure being placed on the underlying bone so the groove isn't as deep- making it even easier for the patella to move out of the groove. (This is the reason why a vet may chose to recommend surgery early on in small breeds with patella laxation- to try and create pressure on the bone to form a nice deep groove as the dog grows instead of having to surgically create the groove in adults. Some vets jump the gun with it but in severe cases doing surgery early can really improve the outcome for the animal.) BUT if the problem is not too bad then doing careful exercise may assist in creating the groove (if it is not very deep and the animal is still growing- although it might be a little late), as well as making the muscles strong enough to hold the patella in place even if the ligament itself is a little weak. If you commit to this course its a life long thing because you will need to keep the muscles strong. A canine physio should be able to give help a lot in preventative treatment.

I do Triangle of Temptation (TOT) and Nothing In Life is Free (NILIF) with my boy. He LOVES having a 'job' to do so the NILIF is great. I also reward for specific behaviours- I am trying to get my low drive dog to fetch a tennis ball for me so every time she has a ball in her mouth I make a fuss and give her a cuddle. This has resulted in her looking for a ball or toy and bringing it too me when she wants attention because she knows that the rule is she always gets rewarded for it (for the time being- I usually set the criteria harder as training progresses)- it gives her some control in her life. I do similar things with my reactive boy and just like her he really enjoys that he can 'turn on the cuddles' when he wants one.

Flyball isn't too hard on the dogs- we now have veterans divisions and we have quite a large number of 10+ year old dogs still coming out for competitions. That being said its the dogs that have been trained well (do nice box work and jump work) and don't over train that have lasted the distance. I have JUST started training my 13mth old kelpies on low jumps for flyball but they have been doing foundation work for agility and flyball since they were tiny. My eldest girl has done more damage playing fetch in the back yard than at flyball (still no idea how she managed to fracture a leg while she was house bound in season) but she is a silly Kelpie so thats as good an explanation as you can get. I would be going to a chiro and/or greyhound vet to make sure he is sound. If he does have any weaknesses you can moderate how much training you do. It also means you can start building a relationship with a vet that deals with performance dogs just in case you need them in the future.

For the kids: Finnish Lapphund is a Reindeer herder- Santa keeps them to keep his reindeers behaving For the Adults A fluffy Finnish version of the Kelpie

Reminds me of a Pet Expo I attended a few years back as a representative for Springwood District Dog Training Club (written in big letters above our stand, which was in amongst the breed stands). We had numerous people come up and ask us about the temperament of a "Springwood" and why they all looked so different (we had everything from amstaffs to beardies there that day). My personal favourite was the guy who informed us he had a Springwood at home I have been informed by numerous Koolie "experts" (including breeders) that Charlie is likely to be a pure koolie. Nevermind that his mum was some sort of cattle/staffy mix and dad is likely to be a kelpie/BC. Anything spotty is a Koolie, and anything with tan points is a Kelpie X (even if its my fluffy finnish lapphund that is a 'pure kelpie' and the solid chocolate kelpies next to her are mutts ) I do get annoyed that anything with tan points is a kelpie- I think there are a few Tri borders out there that get labeled as Kelpie x BC. And if it weights 1kg then I don't think its a Kelpie x ETA- I met what I would have sworn was a pure Rotty (maybe the markings were just a tad smutty) and it was a Rotty x GSD (they had met the parents).

Minimum 1hr to prevent bloat but I try and do it 2hrs before a run.

I live in sydney and travel an hr for training some nights. I think its better to do the travel to a good club then slug away at a crappy club and lose motivation/get frustrated. Good luck finding something

It makes me Lough a little to see how people justify their behaviour, my comment was made because not to many of you answered the question, you rather criticised the guy. (right or wrong) There are many vets out there that would not know the first thing about behaviour and using drugs to calm dogs down etc which is not always the right option but maybe and easy option. Also I don't know this guy but like before I find it funny how many people are so critical and bitchy. This are only my thought and also I am all good for useful advice. Maybe we should change the question and say "can you look at this website and criticise" A veterinary behaviourist is someone who has done additional training- not an ordinary vet. Its apparently fine for you to say 'many vets' don't know behaviour, but others saying 'many people with websites advertising that they can fix dogs' also don't understand behaviour is critical and bitchy?? I dot know this person from a bar of soap- which is probably the first warning signal to me. the second is that no one else has used him or knows someone that has... the dog world is tiny so good behaviourist generally get a name for themselves pretty quickly IMO.

Your not going to fix it until you stop her being rewarded!! Train the kids to freeze and be boring every time she starts it and she will find a better game to play!! Invest in a crate so that the kids can be supervised when she is out so that they all learn to respect each other and play appropriately.

I don't use chemicals unless necessary- if I find a flea on one of the dogs or they even look itchy I pull out capstar and go into a cleaning frenzy. Fleas are too scared to even come within nibbling distance of my pooches!! I have seen flea infestations- hell I did have one 4 years ago myself and used spot ons but it wasn't until I vacuumed the house to within an inch of falling down and did crazy things like mowing then using flea powder and keeping dogs off it for 24hrs that the problem got sorted!! Fleas are horrid but don't automatically think that being anti-chemical means that they are going to let their dog suffer either. Heartworm preventatives are something I don't mess around with- 18th of every month like clockwork. I do think appropriate grooming is an important part of dog ownership- a dog so matted it can barely walk while the owners are doing renovations and 'forgot' about it?? You don't need to have it look amazing but not matted, clean and an appropriate length are musts!!

Mental health??? There are veterinary behaviourists- they can prescript training programmes and drugs in certain situations. That being said I went to a behaviourist based on word of mouth and 6mths of research. But the average dog owner probably only spends 5 minutes googling in an act of desperation so it would be great if we did have some qualification system to at least weed out a few of the numpties! ETA- some of the opinions expressed here on DOL are great others are just down right SCARY!! Thankfully you don't have to pay for the crap and can ignore it :)

Yes I have had really positive results- with the correct theory, technique and tools I saw changes within days. I have since gone back to the same person for some trouble shooting- and once again have had big improvements. Understanding the motivation behind the problem and having it all explained is really important as it allows the handler to think about situations from the dogs perspective and act well before there is an actual problem. I agree with Huski- I ended my consultation feeling like it was going to work and I think that was a big part of the reason why it DID work! Sucks you didn't get more out of it.

ooooh good luck!!

Abby was horrid when it came to drinking water- she was a princess that only drank when it was running from a tap or water bottle!! I would always be running around before comps looking for taps so I could take her there after runs. Thankfully now at almost 7yrs :laugh: she has improved and now drinks after every run.

I feed before flyball etc- but try to make sure its at least 2hrs before any event. I feed easily digested food so they get energy for day but it isn't using energy being digested etc. I also give watermelon/rockmellon treats during the day to ensure she is kept hydrated and gets little boosts of energy during the day. She won't drink electrolytes but I have put some lectade on her meals pre and post comp when I know its going to be hot. I have also soaked watermelon in lectade :laugh: ETA- I will usually give an extra meal the next day (depending on how much work she has done) because otherwise she loses condition!

How many are competing? I can only see three and maybe a head of another dog on the live stream :D ETA It moved