Jumabaar

Then if your comfortable then go for it!! ETA- my dog also had a reaction to Advantage but I am lucky that I have kept her flea free with environmental control. I had a professional bug guy come in and spray the outside area- so eliminating any brought in by cats etc. I then used sprays that kill eggs etc everywhere in the house possible- under beds etc (then let the place air for a couple of hrs). And I also used capstar semi-regularly. And now just keep up with spraying the house every few months and vacuuming regularly. But not everyone manages to completely get it under control that way- but treating the environment will help even if you do use comfortis or topicals.

Then if your comfortable then go for it!! ETA- my dog also had a reaction to Advantage but I am lucky that I have kept her flea free with environmental control.

I think its something to chat to your vet about regarding the specific condition of your dog. There have been adverse reactions such as vomiting with Comfortis but feeding with the tablet reduces the effect. Comfortis has so far had positive feedback regarding results- particularly in areas where frontline and advantage are not working as well.

Erny I found two articles on general dental 'stuff' if you would like me to send them too you. Doubt that they would be any help in this specific situation but they might give you a little more info generally about the mouth. I would have to email them so PM me if your interested. (they came up in my search for info on fractured teeth but do have general info too)

I had a special case that went to a referral centre for desexing- initial consult, full blood work and a number of different specialist tests, fluids, pain relief came up to $1000 for a 17kg bitch. Worth every cent to know exactly what was being dealt with. Not sure how a regular vet with less testing could make it to that price even with a heavier dog.

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It isn't the ingredient that is harmful to dogs- you need to get tested because if you have an infection and use the products you kill the worms which can then cause blockages. With bad infections surgery may be warranted or careful killing of the worms under veterinary guidance. Ivermectin and a few other drugs can be used to do this- in higher concentrations than you usually use in preventative treatments. Treatment of heart worm can kill dogs due to worms blocking blood vessels so testing is always recommended prior to treatment if the animal has been in a heart worm area for a number of months. The dog is required to be kept quiet for a number of weeks after treatment- even in cases where there have only been a few adult worms. Heartguard works by killing baby worms that have been injected into the dog by mosquitos- once they have spent 6weeks in the dog they mature past the point where that level of ivermectin will work. It is generally recommended to do it every 4weeks so that you have a small amount of leeway if you forget and to make sure you have got all worms before they mature. Same with worms- the dog will have ingested the worms and you kill them. Having a small worm burden isn't a problem in a normal healthy dog- their immune systems stop some worms from maturing and generally keep the population relatively low. You treat with a wormer and kill the worms that are in the GIT. Some people chose to get a vet to look at a fecal sample to see if any worms are actually active and producing eggs and if there aren't any then there is no need to worm the dog.

I have a bitch that I will have a litter with (in my prefix) but the breeder gets a puppy back. I am happy with that because I have bred before and didn't want her to have to go back to the breeder. I will say make sure it is all signed off and your happy with it well in advance.

Sometimes multiple breeds suit and it comes down to 'which comes first' :laugh:

I personally don't use flea products regularly BUT there is an advantage to using it continuously. Dogs that only have intermittent exposure to fleas are more likely to end up with a flea allergy (Which has happened to one of my dogs). It means that once or twice a year she gets a hot spot on her back- thankfully hers are not too bad. I do have a regular cleaning schedule and will also occasionally use flea powders outside or under the bed to try and eliminate any chance of fleas making it onto the dogs. So you have to weigh up the extra chemicals vs the chance of hot spots/allergy. (just putting it out there so people can make informed choices- not pushing one side or the other) ETA- I do live in a bad flea area so do have to do environmental control to keep the dogs flea free.

Gorgeous!

I would defiantly recommend a trip to the vet. The sloppy poo might be a sign of stress, or the stress may be a sign of some other illness.

If you live in sydney then some form of heart worm preventative is highly recommended.

I beg your pardon?You presume wrong. What a nasty piece of work you are. See those curly things... ? that's a question mark. It was a question. But, you're right. I'd never heard them called that. The americanised Akita, which I believe what is shown here in Australia is Known only as the Akita and is shown under that name. It is the Japanese version that is called the Akita Inu- they are shown under "Akita" in some countries but I think others may be classified as a separate breed "Akita Inu". They do actually look quite different IMO but I must say if you want to talk to people that do know the difference head over the the Akita thread- which is where I got this info from As far as I know the Akita Inu is exceptionally rare here in Australia thus the reason why people have not heard of them before. I wouldn't judge someone for not knowing a variant of my breed when it is so rare- I am not sure but I also think the movie Hatchi shows an Akita rather than an Akita Inu but I was too busy crying by the end to remember. Sorry to go OT

I don't believe these results go into the AVA scheme. They use PennHip however I am guessing these X-rays will be going to a private reader for scoring under a different system. There are strengths and weaknesses in both systems and so people can choose which they go to.

Three of my dogs protect their crate and will carry on a treat (will bark and growl) if dogs walk past. They are quite happy if they have crate covers on and are tucked out of the way. Take them out and they are quite happy to ignore the same dog walking past. I think you need to look at canine behaviour before you judge a dog that is in a confined area with strange unknown dogs approaching their territory. These same dogs compete in flyball, one is a delta therapy dog- they are neutralised continually to as many stimuli as I can imagine but that doesn't mean that they aren't going to tell another dog to get out of their territory if it walks into it. We are putting dogs in a VERY artificial environment and putting extreme pressures on them. I don't mind dogs carrying on a treat- I do wonder why they are not covered and at the back of the gazebo rather than exposed out the front- but that is a human issue not a dog one. Mind you I also try not to take my dog too close to other dogs crated because that dog is in its 'safe place' and would probably like to have a nap without strange dogs walking past. Just an aside- Would you be happy to set up a bed and have a snooze in your PJs on the sidelines of a big football game and have people think they can bump and push into you and your bed? Guessing you might feel a little exposed and try to get people to give you a little space too....

I shared it on FB so people could find see :)

Just on that- the royals are some of the most important shows in the calendar along with breed specialties etc. That is probably also why people are more uptight at a royal. I am lucky with the Kelpies so not much in the way of grooming. I usually have my Lappie on show for people to pat until she gets tired. That being said my biggest concern is people feeding the dogs rather than touching them! Diarrhoea due to someone giving them a shmacko is not the best 1am wake up call after a royal

Not all judges are qualified for all groups. And you can't enter under family members or the breeders of your own dog so a little unfair for people to drive all that way and waste petrol and money only to be told they can't show. Its all been discussed before. I don't think that they playing field would be evened out by this- people would still end up competing under the same judges and against the same competition- it would just make it more random. Better to vote with your feet against judges that you don't think are being fair and eventually they won't get appointments so only the fair judges pull big entries. If judges only get tiny entries and clubs are told why people have decided to boycott it would weed out the few bad eggs and reward the good eggs. ETA- I can't really say that the playing field is so skewed either. I don't win because I don't show a popular type- it has nothing to do with faces or names it has to do with the dogs on the end of the lead. I will continue to go out and have a fun day regardless

But sometimes even someone with no mental deterioration can be scammed into giving a scammer money. The elderly are at risk of this and sometimes don't believe their family members- a visit from the police might make these people back off. Also having the police explain to him that there is a chance that he is being scammed might make him stop giving them money. If after all that nothing changes than fair enough but I do think that saying that its his money is not taking into account the entire situation. There have been other situations where the elderly have been taken advantage of and have ended up being completely fleeced and left with nothing. Its great that this gentleman has someone interested enough in his welfare to take measures to ensure he is not being taken for a ride.

LOL- glad it worked for someone :D

I would love to see random dog breeding under control but that is pie in the sky stuff at the moment. As for the bully/mastiff breeding,as has been pointed out many times in this sort of arguement, these sort of 'people' will just move onto other breeds. And considering Victoria apparently has tough laws on these 'sort of dogs' it obviously isn't working. It is a difficult problem, the answer in my opinion is to make people responsible for the actions of their dogs, no matter what breed. I tend to be of the opinion that these sorts of people choose the Bully/Mastiff types of dog for a reason. I don't think they possess any training skills to extract aggression responses out of anything otherwise they would just own anything from a Labrador to a Great Dane and get the same aggression responses and attack results?. I think with the breed styles taken away from them to produce preditory behaviour from other breeds, they would struggle to achieve it?. I still think there is some merit in the madness of legislation, take the Bully/Mastiff's off theses people and give them a nice well bred Cocker Spaniel instead, the commumunity would be a safer place :D Give one of these Numpties a Cocker Spaniel, add a little bit of neglect perhaps some aversives and a big scare during its fear period and you would probably still find them walking down the street with the dog off lead resulting in a dog attack. Currently the average Cocker owner is on average reasonably responsible ( because the real numpties have other tougher looking dogs) and will keep aggressive dogs out of situations where they can do damage. But if Cockers were the last and only breed available and these numpties ended up with them then I can assure you there would still be dog attacks and suddenly it would be cocker spaniels being banned....

In some breeds Affected may be bed to clear to produce carriers. Its important that this happens in numerically small breeds to prevent excessive loss of genetics. In breeds where problems are not yet testable I would be putting away semen in the hopes of a test at some point in the future to prevent loss of genetic material in the mean time. I would show a dog with structural faults that were not symptomatic. To me showing is a social event where I get to look at the good and bad of the breed. Some problems can be managed with appropriate exercise- such as patella issues where the muscles on the leg can be built up to hold the patella more securely in place. I wouldn't show a dog that had surgical correction. Not sure about a dog who had surgery after an injury though?? If it had an injury because of a predisposition then I wouldn't but after an injury like being hit by something it may be a bit of a grey area???

I am sure it could be- but as a breeder I tend to allocate based on temperament first. If the one with the best structure needs a home that can deal with a high drive dog but only want a pet then they get it as a pet at pet price. You don't want a pup that has been put on limited register because it is miss marked (aka no real fault as a pet) but has the wrong temperament for you. You should be able to tell the breeder your price range and then get the most suitable pup for your situation. If the breeder doesnt have anything suitable then they should recommend someone who will. You shouldn't feel pressured into spending the max amount to get a pup that is suitable. Perhaps ask the breeder to explain the extreme price variation and why they have it in place. That being said other breeds to have a large difference in price between main and limited- they are usually rarer breeds though. I hope that makes sense.

Why does one pup in the litter cost so much more?? Perhaps you should email a few other breeders to see what their responses to your questions are- you might find someone more interested in finding you the ideal temperament in your situation rather than allocating based on colour and price first and temperament second....