Jumabaar

David Lidbetter at Parramatter Veterinary Surgical Specialists is an amazing surgeon.

More than that. He could (should?) be prosecuted for blatantly neglecting a dog's basic needs. Poor little dog must have been in agony. I'm thinking about doing that. I'll give the RSPCA a call but not sure they can do much on hearsay and vets have confidentiality so not sure they could do anything unless they had to or wanted to. I never knew vets had to keep animal cases confidential. I didnt think they would, especially from the RSPCA. I know the vets have to call the RSPCA if they dont think the animal belongs to the person who brings it in. I would have thought it would be the same if they think an animal is being mistreated. I work at a vet and everything is very confidential. it's just like going to a dr or a psychologist. I don't know the oarticulars about the vet and the case in general as I hung up pretty quickly before losing my head. I called the RSPCA and took his particulars but without seeing the dog I don't think they can do much. well i learn something new every day.. :) I still think its strange as I know my dog wouldnt give hoot if anyone knew her business... haha I understand its a medical profession but its animals, not humans, so it wouldnt make difference to the animal if someone knew their medical conditions. Thank about what would happen if Black Caviar's vet started telling the world about everything the did to her! Or someone who spends a fair amount of money treating their animal but doesn't tell people because of the judgement. Vets can report cases of cruelty but then the next dog that person has wont come back for treatment. Not sure RSPCA and history- usually they ask owners to prove that they have sought medical attention for an animal and they owners provide them as proof that the animal is not being neglected. If the animal is seized the RSPCA can take the animal to a vet for a consult based on its current condition.

The statement was we definitely need time vaccinate dogs, I said no we don't definitely. If you want research on things such on titre testing to test for immunity instead of blindly vaccinating, there is a lot of info out there. I did my own research, I'm not doing yours too. You clearly stated that "well, actually no, we don't, not beyond the initial puppy vacs". Sorry I missed the word definitely - it didn't appear on my screen. I have done my own research thank you - and wouldn't trust yours anyway so have no desire for you to do mine. I read a thread a while back where someone lost two young dogs to parvo - both of whom had received their puppy vaccinations - so puppy vaccinations alone are not always sufficient for seroconversion. But don't let facts get in the way of a good argument. To the OP - it is important to read both sides, consider all the scientific evidence, and make a decision you are comfortable with. Chocolatelover As a long time breeder I MAY be able to give you a reason why vaccinated puppies die. Some bitches, and note I said some, can still be producing massive amounts of antibodies and if the pups are still nursing on their dams when vaccinated it is believed that the anti bodies from the bitch may in many cases be rendering the vaccine useless. Many breeders are removing their pups from their dams at 6 weeks and not allowing them to nurse from that time on and vaccinating at 8 weeks. Many of us are finding that 2 weeks clear of their dams and vaccinating at 8 weeks has been successful. I do fully understand the implications of neutralisation of the vaccine by maternal antibodies - this is why I disagree that puppy vaccines are a guarantee. I titrate human maternal antibodies in my work and it is not always an exact science. Maternal antibodies in a pup can persist longer than a two week timeframe, plus there is also the issue of the puppy's developing immune system. I can't recall the exact figures but not all puppies will seroconvert at twelve weeks whether there are maternal antibodies or not. However, by 16 weeks a higher percentage of puppies will seroconvert. I can't find the thread I was referring to but it was very sad and from memory the pups had the 8 and 12 week vaccine and died from parvo around six months. For me personally, I chose to do 8 week (done by breeder after being weaned at 6 weeks), 12 week and also a 16 week, which the vet said they didn't need but was happy to do it. I felt that this was the best way of ensuring that my dogs seroconvert and are protected - most likely for life. I am not saying this is right or wrong but I am saying that vaccinations have saved more lives than any other medical discoveries and should not be seen as something that is going to cause your dog years of pain and suffering. The benefits outweigh the risks in the majority of cases. In a perfect world I would probably chose not to revaccinate other than one booster (similar to the schedule for human children), however circumstances dictate that I need to have my dog vaccinated for boarding purposes. I fully understand there are implications in over-vaccinating. I just think it is important for people to hear both sides of the story that are true and accurate and to base their decisions from there :) I cant remember the study but with the killed vaccine I think 95% seroconverted at 12weeks, 99% seroconverted at 16 weeks. And there will always be some non responders who will not seroconvert regardless of the number of vaccines given. I think seroconversion was higher with the live vaccines at earlier ages. The reason a number of shots are given is to try and give puppies the vaccine as soon as the maternal antibodies drop off and because its impossible to predict when it happens the schedule of 8, 12 and 16 weeks was done to ensure that 99% of pups would be covered. There is also a gap between maternal antibodies being protective and the level that will interfere with the vaccine- so some pups may have no protection at all for a month or longer during this period. As you said there have been a few cases of pups contracting parvo at 5mths of age after they finished their killed vaccine course at 14weeks (6, 10 and 14weeks)- the unlucky pups that fall into that less than 5% category and must have used the killed vaccine. I use the live vaccine so I can have pups out earlier and because I am in contact with parvo etc so only do 2 shots as the manufactures recommend. I also havent needed to give a 1yr shot because all of them have had high titres. I do think that there would be genetics in there- so I would be much more likely to do 3 shots on a breed like a dobe or rottie who are more susceptible to parvo that I am with my dogs/lines that have all responded will to the 12week live vaccine.

Thinking of you

I am guessing this has started to become an expensive endeavour with treatments and trips to the vet etc. Perhaps a trip to a veterinary dermatologist to get the best information would be a cheaper solution in the long run? Do you live in Victoria? If you give us a location there may be some DOLers who can recommend a veterinary dermatologist for you to see.

My puppy would get over tired and VERY VERY VERY naughty. One night I got sick of it and picked her up for a cuddle and gently didnt take no for an answer. 30seconds later she was asleep! I agree with RidgieMal- try and wind down for the night. You say you take dinner away- do you leave food out all day? I found my pup would crash after a meal and toilet session so perhaps use that to your advantage and fed at 9 and she was off to the land of nod at 9:30. You could also try doing some mini trick training sessions at 9 rather than free time because puppies find using their brain to earn food exhausting work! Love the photos

So next vaccination is due at 13yrs of age. after 10 years old no C3 vaccination is required. Interesting to also note Dr Jean Dodds research states that - The Kennel Cough vaccination in the C4 & C5 are only valid for 6 months therefore her recommendation is that should you feel you need to board your dog or place in a higher risk environment then vaccinate for this shortly before. Also pregnant or lactating bitches should not be vaccinated. All vets should have received the information from the AVA so really they have no excuse to tell the public any different from their own governing body. I have had some vets tell clients that a tri-annual vaccination is available but more expensive, this is bull@t as the same vaccine is used. The main problem for the public is that often boarding kennels and dog clubs still ask for an annual certificate - those who do request annual vaccination are not current with their information and they should be advised of this. Even Dogs Victoria published an update not that long ago. My girl would have horrible itchy skin 6 weeks after a C5 vaccination. She hasn't had one for 3 years and is due. She won't be getting a C5 but a C3. She has been titre tested and for the first time, 3 months ago, she was low on one of them, but still high for parvo and distemper. The puppy is due for her booster shot, so I will probably do them both then and then titre test after this. My understanding, at the moment, is that you can't get pet health insurance unless you annually vaccinate? Is this correct? My local obedience club will accept the titre certificate. The local agility club won't. Suffice to say we don't do agility - which is a pity. I've told them they need to change their rules and go by the AVA recommendations. (Especially as DogsSA has done a similar update as DogsVic has). Pet insurance wont cover for diseases that you can vaccinate against if your not up to date with vaccines but you can still get insurance. Manufactures that guarantee their vaccine for three years often also will cover for these diseases if your dog has been vaccinated with their vaccine- which would be cheaper than using pet insurance anyway. But best to check with the manufacture what their policy actually is. jr_oz have you thought about using a different type of vaccine to see if you have the same reaction? ie if you used a killed vaccine last time it may have been a reaction to the adjuvant so a live vaccine with no adjuvant may be safer.

Perhaps look at some training video on youtube of "Swimmers turns" so that when you go to training you have a bit of an idea of what you are doing (so you know the person is training your dog safely). There are a number of different methods but the aim is to get all 4 feet up on the box as the dog turns to minimise any joint trauma that may happen if the dog "slams" into the box instead. Good luck- My Kelpies LOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE flyball!!!!

Many vets are still in the dark ages when it comes to breeding hernia affected bitches. (old school teaching unfortunately) Many vets want to err on the side of caution..if they claim it's "Ok" and something does go wrong..they don't want to have any fingers pointed at them with accusations of 'you said it was fine...so I did..now look what happened!' As for 'strain'....that's a new one...never heard of such a thing...it's not got anything to do with anything..if so, you would never have a bitch with a C section whelp again....stretch, push, contractions..strain,.....if it DID affect the bitch...one has to seriously wonder how the vet stitched/repaired in the first place to provide such a weakness. These are easily sorted out, but organs slipping into the pouch are just as easily fixed as a fat blob without future complications. Only when left unattended, can a restriction occur (and possible organ/tissue damage) Even in a young pup, the difference between a fat blob and a severe hernia is easily seen, even by many that don't know much difference between them...trust me, it's VERY easy to feel the difference. I agree that its easy to feel the difference but the fact is that this is a complication that can happen and not everyone is aware of it so I mentioned it for completeness because it is a consideration. I also know that not all breeders and owners are created equal so there are pups out there that present to the vet with organ entrapment as hard as it is to believe.

The risk with big hernias is that organs and intestines can drop down into them and possibly become trapped. I personally wouldn't want to have to pay to get them fixed regularly (I lose enough on every litter as it is). I don't think that would stop me from doing a test litter since the condition isn't life threatening and is fixable, but if it turned up in the test litter then I probably wouldn't be continuing down that road. I also cant see that there would be any greater chance of it rupturing than a bitch who had a C section followed by a natural birth, or any other midline surgery.

So next vaccination is due at 13yrs of age. after 10 years old no C3 vaccination is required. Interesting to also note Dr Jean Dodds research states that - The Kennel Cough vaccination in the C4 & C5 are only valid for 6 months therefore her recommendation is that should you feel you need to board your dog or place in a higher risk environment then vaccinate for this shortly before. Also pregnant or lactating bitches should not be vaccinated. All vets should have received the information from the AVA so really they have no excuse to tell the public any different from their own governing body. I have had some vets tell clients that a tri-annual vaccination is available but more expensive, this is bull@t as the same vaccine is used. The main problem for the public is that often boarding kennels and dog clubs still ask for an annual certificate - those who do request annual vaccination are not current with their information and they should be advised of this. Even Dogs Victoria published an update not that long ago. Not all vets are members of the AVA- it is a voluntary membership so not all vets would have been spoon fed the information. They should have all done their own continuing information to keep up to date- I worry if a vet isnt up to date on vaccinations what else they may be behind on the times with. Also although I do agree that after 10yrs you shouldn't need to vaccinate but that is something the individual should be discussing with their veterinarian because ultimately all we can offer is oppinion and we dont know the dog or the area etc.

So next vaccination is due at 13yrs of age.

Wow crazy I have not heard of anyone being silly enough to give triple doses!!! (and scary) There are a number of products now labeled for 3yrly vaccination although even those labeled for 1 yr can be given triennially- its just that vets are less likely to go off label with them so there are still a lot of vets that recommend yearly vaccination according to manufactures guidelines. But I would go with the AVA (Australia Veterinary Association) and the World Small Animal Veterinary Association who recommend triennial. Personally I do 2 puppy vacs, titre at 15mths and if they are high then thats it. But that is because I believe my dogs would be constantly exposed so will naturally have high immunity. It may not be the best protocol for dogs that are not as in contact with the core diseases.

$40 for desexed animals or entire animals owned by a dogs NSW member $150 for an entire animal. I really cant see how yearly rego will change anything- the same people will register their dogs, the same people wont. For non members of Dogs N.S.W its $150. $350. for an Entire dog. Pensioners get registration reduced to $15. unless its an entire,in which case they pay the full $350. it used to vary from council to council,but sounds like thats no longer the case? It hasnt varied from council to council for years in NSW - its state wide law and costs are fixed. Nope here is the link- max you pay is $150 for an entire dog http://www.dlg.nsw.gov.au/dlg/dlghome/dlg_InformationIndex.asp?mi=9&ml=1&areaindex=CA&index=302#howmuchwillitcosttoregistermycatordog My grandfather as a pensioner paid 50c to register his dog/yr back in the early 1990's in Bankstown. Doubt yearly rego would be that cheap anymore even for pensioners if they brought it back in.

$40 for desexed animals or entire animals owned by a dogs NSW member $150 for an entire animal. I really cant see how yearly rego will change anything- the same people will register their dogs, the same people wont.

A fit Whippet would be able to maintain a brisk trot for hours. It's the sprinting that really knocks them up quickly - like a cheetah. I suppose humans aren't really built for bi-pedal endurance at higher paces. Most people can walk for hours without sustaining stress injury though. My road work pace for the younger dogs is a brisk walk for me and a working trot for the dogs. Darcy the poodle has no problem keeping up. The crumblies get more of a meander - I use it as my cooling down phase. :) I actually think humans are quite good at bi-pedal endurance. By being upright our ability to breath is not regulated by when our legs land giving us better ability to oxygenate and sustain exercise for long periods- its what made us good hunters. That said I am no prehistoric runner and my dogs are all far far fitter than me! (oops missed dee lees post :) )

I think removing the resources and not challenging him for any until you see a specialist- you dont want to make the situation worse. I have distracted dogs that have resource guarded ie by getting out the lead or doing a recall away from an item that they suddenly start guarding so that i can then remove it without confronting them until better management solutions can be given.

I have many de-stuffed a toy, and my back yard is a bit of a dead toy graveyard! I have been doing some landscaping and have found many an ear, nose or foot from past toys :laugh: Quite a few of my dogs will stalk and pounce on a toy and give it a good death shake. And it has had no impact on their interactions with other animals, humans or dogs. They also hump each other but have never tried to hump me. So I wouldnt be too fussed with that behaviour either personally although they all stop I tell them too, so you can redirect by getting him to sit or drop or recall to you each time he does it and you will find that behaviour becomes less rewarding. You may also notice a pattern- one of my dogs did it when he got overwhelmed/overexcited so when I saw him humping I did some massage and calming behaviours and he stopped doing it because it wasnt necessary. I wouldn't take the toy away from him- a toy that is destroyed is much better than pulling clothes off the line, chewing shoes etc. Perhaps a few more bigger toys would be good? Just make sure their stuffing is dog safe.

showdog, out of curiousity, how can you tell whether there is yeast on the feet? Is it like white flakey stuff? Its quite easy to see yeast under a microscope- so a quick swab done by the vet and you have an answer 2 minutes later :)

If your thinking about going to a specialist (which I think is your best bet) I would suggest initiating an elimination diet and doing fortnightly flea treatments before you go so that a food and flea allergy can be ruled out (and possibly save yourself a revisit). Food and flea allergies are unlikely in your senario but still have to be officially ruled out for some diagnosis to be made.

Its a little easier to secure a tail out of the way, under drapes than it is to secure some testicles! You also wouldnt want to use towel clamps anywhere in that region to even attempt it!!

So glad that he may be feeling better. But am still so angry that they did this to him.There is a line between shaving areas and butchering them with incompetence. In my honest opinion this was unneccasary. How would the surgeon like it if some nurse shaved his scrotum like that. Bet he would be pretty pissed off. If they had to shave all the hair off why did they leave his tail hair on? Tail hair equals possible infection. I wouldnt of paid the bill and would of spit tacks. But that is only my opinion. Get the Surgeon to take another look at the wound site, his shaved scrotum and his unshaved tail. Stinks of trying to make out as if nothing was wrong. In surgery practicals we were taught to shave the scrotum for this type of surgery. Mind you I have now learnt that paw paw cream within 20minutes of clipping can greatly decrease the chance of clipper rash- my dogs have gotten quite significant reactions every time they have been clipped for surgery regardless of location, even when it was just for blood to be taken and done by a very good nurse who is also a groomer. Unfortunately the scrotum is even more sensitive regardless of how careful you are- but this is the worst I have seen. Perhaps you can ask for some to be applied if he has any surgeries in the future? I think Manuka honey would be another option as a preventative but that is only based on its properties, not personal use. As you start to see some wound healing perhaps think about some honey as it can decrease irritation and can reduce healing time. Its used on horses with open wounds to great effect, and I have used it on quite large cuts and scrapes on my dogs with good results.

I have put ice on clipper rash before- even a cool washer to just take some of the heat out of the area made my girl much much happier after she was spayed.

I think organisation is a good point. When its raining and only 1/class then calling the next dog in to set up gets everyone dry quicker. I also think that good stewards are polite and dont mutter rude comments under their breath, in the hearing of other exhibitors.

I am sure someone will come along and tell me the absolute answer, but I thought the AVA & The Veterinarian Boards were different entities. The AVA being a bit like the PIAA where members can freely choose whether they are part of a private organisation where as the Veterinarian Practitioners Board is an independent government body ? The AVA doesnt/cant deal with complaints as far as I know it must go through the Vet Practitioners Board ?? I think I would be looking at independent legal advice as well as lodging a complaint through the Vet. Prac. Board .... Crickets you are correct. AVA is a voluntary membership, complaints go to the VPB and they do act on complaints and have a number of powers in this area.