Jumabaar

I have fed cooked chicken and rice for a few days post op. Stopping eating in the wild means that they are ready to stop living. So its really not surprising most dogs will pretend that they are having no trouble eating. Stories of a dog having teeth whippersnippered off with pulps exposed and happily having dinner are not all that uncommon :eek: Hopefully your vet uses some local anaesthetic- mine have all had local blocks and have not been in much pain at all after their surgery. They have actually been much much happier! I assume because the pain is actually less than the sore tooth.

To stop my puppy doing this I would walk around with some toys and treats in my pockets so every time she went for my feet I could ask for a sit to reward (or drop or paw) or could throw a toy and redirect all that energy into something I wanted. Every time I played the toy I said 'get the toy' so that after a very short amount of time I could say that and she would find a toy to play with me instead of having to carry one around. My puppy liked the spray bottle which is why I used the above method. I did however traumatise her in other ways and she recovered from them all aka being stepped on, dropping a pan next to her and the most horrid of all- the nail clippers!!!!!! After much work she now presents each foot to have nails trimmed. So it shouldnt be a long lasting disaster. Just take it as a lesson about how sensitive your pup is to punishments at the moment and try not to feel badly!

I would be checking for an injury that might be making jumping difficult before doing too much jumping work with her. She may have been sore and hit they bar rather than just keen and now is avoiding the jump to avoid the pain.

After checking with a vet about the muscle twitching I would get a referral to an animal physio who can help strengthen his core muscles and help stabilise his back- which will probably give him a much flatter back when running around.

Numpties! Sometimes you just have to accept that the people in charge know less than you do (about your dog and about training in general) and you just have to say no. I get really annoyed about other dogs invading my space- accidents/one offs are fine. The first time its a request to respect my space and my dogs space and after that its a much gruffer bugger off. Its fine to do that type of thing (maybe) however if you cant read dogs, or if someone says they are not comfortable then only a numpty would try and push the issue.

Non-steroidals are great pain relievers! Neurophen is a Nodsteroidal for example and they have the added bonus of settling down any inflammation that is happening internally with will also decrease the amount of pain being produced. My girls were on tremadol and a NSAID (non steroidal) for 5 days after their desexing and were very sorry for themselves. I cuddled them for three days before they stopped moping and went back to playing with toys etc- and one of them is a dog that didnt limp with a fractured leg and on another occasion a torn ligament in her toe!!! I wish I could be more help but the best I can do is cyber wishes that she is a little better over night and tomorrow!

Sweet can you just tell that to my dogs? They dont seem to worry about banging and crashing into things, and I certainly have given up worrying about it (I just come in and pick up the pieces) and yet they still get injured????? I guess they just dont know the special rules My dogs now are insured. Between their own stupidity, crazy clotting problems and flyball/agility/herding etc I figure that it only takes one cruciate to go and it will have been money well spent. And it has allowed me to worry less about them because I can borrow the initial money off my mum for the time being to pay for treatment for them. I am not all that financial (still studying) so I think its only fair I have something in place so that my dogs can get treatment. Even something like epilepsy can add up to a fair amount over a year, or atopic dermatitis- I cant afford ongoing costs so I chose petplan.

It takes 5-6 months for the larvae to develop into an adult and be immune to the levels of treatment that we use in preventatives. So it is best to start treatment at 3-4mths of age to make sure you fall well under the time that it takes them to mature. I believe there are also some studies around showing that ivermectin at the levels currently used as a preventative have not caused problems in MDR1 affected individuals (although to confuse matters further it is now the ABCB1 gene so if you google use this for the most recent information. The levels used to eliminate a patent infection with adult worms is what causes the problems- as well as a few other reasonably common drugs (including milbemycin just to confuse things further). This is a general list- as you can see most of the drugs on the list indicate that they can be used- just to be cautious with them. http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/depts-vcpl/drugs.aspx Not regarding Australia but still some interesting information. http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCsQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fvdt.ugent.be%2Fcode%2Fshowupload.php%3Fid%3D488&ei=rXuXUYXdGoW5iAeq2IC4BA&usg=AFQjCNE4kdmtguk_75bALP82lymm5A7zlA&bvm=bv.46751780,d.aGc

I am guessing that the pain meds that the OP was given came with instructions not to give unless the dog is eating- though I am happy to stand corrected. So it may not be possible for it to be safely given if the dog wont eat......

The vet will have different pain meds that can be given regardless of eating not just a sedative and they may well also be stronger. Is the inside of her lip/gum moist or tacky?

Yes, Kindi is a wonderful time, your child brings every childhood disease home to share. But how many of those teachers have died from those childhood diseases? The zoonotic diseases that vets catch are generally innocuous and not a big deal- Hendra has a greater than 50% mortality rate and Q fever can have massive impacts on peoples life. A little more serious than a cold and the reason Vets lack of care for personal protection is concerning.

Actually vet staff can catch Q fever from aerosolised particles of placenta and really should be wearing gloves, gowns and masks during Sections!!! http://www0.health.nsw.gov.au/factsheets/infectious/qfever.html

I am SURE they have checked- but is there any Iliopsoas involvement in all this? I doubt it since it happened when she wasn't competing but stumbled across an article on non-responsive hind limb lameness and (unfortunately) thought of Kenzie.

Finnish Lapphund. Even as a puppy mine was a bit of an 'old soul' and was gentle with kids and the elderly. It is a trait that seems to run quite predictably in some lines.

Ideally they also have a blasé temperament so that its not too stressful for them and they dont need many drugs (since all drugs cary some risks) to keep them quiet during donation. Edited to make sense

When was their last vac? The current AVA recommendations are triannually for the 3 core diseases in a C3 so long as your dogs still have annual health checks. This is something to discuss with your vet.

I agree with the others about going out in the cold and dark! I also dont feed dry food over night because I found that I had to get up at 1am for a puppy poop run (as my puppies have all whinged to go out when they needed to go) but giving the dry for breaky instead of dinner solved that. Also where is he being left overnight? Can he alert you to the fact he needs to go. Also are you crating or confining him to encourage him to keep his sleeping area clean?

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheer:

A good vet will also discuss if you need a C3, C5 or C7 depending on where you live, what other animals you come into contact with and the current disease levels in your area. Exceptional vets also discuss titre testing

I think it depends on the vaccine used by the vet, the age of the pup at the second shot and the level of risk in your area. Some brands work from 10 weeks of age, some don't so it might be best to look at the brand your vet has used and do your own research on manufactures guidelines. The second and third shots are not 'boosters' of the first shot. They are given because Maternal antibodies hang around for variable lengths of time and they can interfere with the vaccine. Thus most puppies will have low enough maternal antibodies at 12 weeks of age for the vaccine to work. Individual puppies may have higher than expected maternal antibodies at 12 weeks and so need the third shot for the vaccine to be dealt with the the puppies body and not the maternal antibodies. Some studies show that one vaccine only at 12 weeks had a good response. So the short answer is that no one can tell you that with out more information. Perhaps see if your vet will discuss the pro' sand con's for the third vaccine (or find one who will)?

MIne were crated of a night till toilet trained. Some were let out earlier because they could tell me when they needed to go (nosing me/ scratching the door), others didnt tell me when they were out of the crate (they would have a bit of a whimper in there) so they remained in there until they could hold on over night or worked out how to let me know they needed to go. It was a bit of a trial and error thing. Because I have crazy Kelpies, puppies are always kept separate from the rest of the dogs until they stop annoying the older dogs when out and when they are physically capable of running around with them. This usually means they are separated until 9 mths, but once again it depended on the dog. And quite often I could leave them with one of the more sedate older dogs one on one from 6mths when I go out. Mine are all in the house when I am out anyway because of nosy neighbours who cant keep their sticky beaks to themselves. How are you toilet training your pup? Are you using wee pads, and what is the eventual aim with sleeping arrangements and toileting?

Demi my Lapphund has had 'off lead' rights since 8 weeks of age. She is a bit of a houdini when crated but only ever comes to me if she escapes and will quite happily snooze the day away at a show on a camp chair. Amazing recall when out- absolutely pathetic when she is in the house and cant see the 'point' of coming across the room to me when I could quite easily walk to her instead :laugh: She can recall off birds, other dogs people etc. Demi is most definitely on the 'chilled' spectrum of the scale so I think its important to talk to breeders about your requirements so you don't end up with a bouncy excitable dog. I dont think they are as easily trained as kelpie for example but Demi has really nice manners (she just forgets what drop means on a regular basis) and made it through the pets as therapy test really easily- walking on lead, being held, having people pat her and make lots of noise around her. She is a bit of a barker when left outside- which may be a consideration as you plan on leaving it outside when your not at home. She doesnt really bark at all in the house.

Haemophilia cant be tested in Australia- I ended up sending bloods O/S because even getting the VWB here took months and I gave up waiting.

Guessing they are looking into clotting disorders such as Haemophilia and Von Willerbrands - these may also cause neurologic signs.

I have recently heard of it happening in a puppy- not one that old so it seems unusual because the body should have had a reaction around it well before this and sealed it off. Its still possible though.