Baby Dragon

One of my dog's vaccination certificates says: protech c3 and canigen kc (it has the barcodes), then it says vaccination details: c5 on another vaccination certificate it says: protech c4 and canvac (it has the barcodes), then it says vaccination details: c5 I was wondering is this just two different ways of giving a c5 vaccination? The part that confuses me is that one has protech c3 and the other has protech c4 :rolleyes: Could somebody who knows please explain it to me? Thank you

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No worries.. I had no idea how BARF worked either, so thanks for explaining I don't follow any model strictly, I have tweaked it to find what works for my dog, and we incorporate VAN. Actually at times I have worried that I may have fed more than the 10% bone, so it's good to know that some models encourage it.

Yes, like the chicken/turkey/lamb bones I listed above - my dogs have nothing left in their bowls after I feed them! I generally don't feed brisket or recreational bones. It's interesting learning about the different models. Prey-model raw feeding is 80% meat, 10% bone, 10% organs (of which about 1/2 of the organs is liver.)

I also thought about 10% edible bone was the recommended amount, and that RMBs should be mostly muscle meat. I guess it depends on which model you're following though AFAIK the BARF break down was 80% raw meaty bones, within that, 40% meat and 40% bone. Not sure what the prey model is but surely it's more than 10% bone too? I don't know any raw diet that would advocate only feeding 10% bone, all the RMBs I feed would have much more bone than that. Is that 40% edible bone?

I also thought about 10% edible bone was the recommended amount, and that RMBs should be mostly muscle meat. I guess it depends on which model you're following though

RubyStar can I ask which type of bones she was throwing up that she wasn't chewing properly? I'm always curious to know about bones that some dogs don't do well on so I can avoid them or be extra careful with them for my dog.

The problem with that is she has a dog door to use. so she can go out as she pleases. She loves going out to play, and its there during the day while we work, so i would be loathe to take it off her. I have just resigned myself to a nightly patrol for toads, and i go sit outside and watch bella if its night time and she goes out Can you block the dog door off at night? Or crate her indoors at night? If she must go out at night off leash then you're doing the right thing by watching her. Personally I would exercise her as much as possible in the cooler hours of the day rather than at night though (like before or after work) that way she wouldn't need to go outside at night except to potty, and that can be done on leash. If she is getting exercise in the cooler hours of the day, she doesn't need to be exercised outside at night too. If she wants to play at night, a game of fetch indoors, or a kong indoors works well

Thanks everyone I have been using a number 10 and the brand is AGC. It sounds like I just need more practice!

There were lumps or anything, just that he was really quiet, uninterested, not himself and didn't want dinner etc. I told the vet nurse about it, they said it sounds unusual and they said they will give him something before the next vacc so that it doesn't happen this time around.

What length blade do you use to do the muzzle? And are there special smaller/narrower blades you can get to make it easier around the eyes? I have shakey hands so I struggle a bit when doing around the eyes!

He's a normally bouncy dog and was quiet and uninterested in anything, and not really wanting his dinner, for about 24 hours.

The vet said something about giving him something before the vacc to counter the side effects/reaction (after I mentioned he had a reaction last time and explained what it was), but didn't tell me what they give to counter it, so that's why I was wondering if anyone knew. He is 3, this is an annual vacc and I've only had him long enough to have this be the second vacc I've had him for. I looked into titre testing instead and had decided to go that way if I could find a vet who would agree to do it, but finding a vet to agree to it has been almost impossible, and when discussing it with the program he's from they would prefer he was vaccinated due to the nature of his work (unless the vet advises against it, which they haven't.)

Thank you. So maybe the dog doesn't need anything to help with the reaction if it's a 'normal' reaction?

Thanks alanglen

Thanks puggy puggy. What about for a normally bouncy dog being quiet and uninterested in anything, and not really wanting its dinner, for about 24 hours?

Can you keep her inside at night, and on leash with you if you have to take her out at night?

I have heard that vets can give the dogs something to lessen reactions to vaccinations, if the dog has reacted in the past. Does anyone know what it is the vet gives the dog? Thanks

Thanks for this thread! I was looking at options and I'll probably get a dremel now too. Are there different models or attachments for the dremel?

We get the tinned Makerel in oil. I've always fed the whole contents including the oil, but sometimes I wonder if the oil is good for them or not. Does anyone know? I avoid feeding fat to my dog, but I am hoping the oil with the Makerel is good oil.

I put banana in his frosty paws so I was just going to keep doing that, and look for a supplement. It seems like most B6 supplements have a lot of other things in them though that might not be ok for dogs.

Thanks for the info. B6 is the one I'm particularly interested in actually, so that's good news about bananas I guess??

Thanks guys. What doses do you use? Do you give it every day?

I was wondering if anyone gives Vets All Natural shark cartliage to their dogs? If so, what is the normal dosage?

Does anyone give their dog Vitamin B supplements? Or does anyone know some foods high in Vitamin B that I can feed? I'm thinking of bananas, but not sure?? Thanks