poodlefan

I'd suggest shorter weave poles (1m is usually plenty) for dogs onlead and shorter jump uprights to to lower the risk of tangling. Never seen a handler who could resist steering or pulling the dog with the lead though.

I walk my four together. It's rare to pass someone without getting a comment on it.

There is no way in hell your average dog needs to be fed the amount of food recommended by most dog food manufacturers. At 7 months, your pup is old enough to be on one meal a day. It may be that she's simply being offered too much food to get enthusisatic about it. Grazing would be part of that too. My guys get mostly raw meaty bones, some kibble and the odd packet of 4 legs. Dogs need a higher fat diet than we do so removing fat from cooked mince isn't doing them any favours unless they have a digestive issue. I'm not a fan of feeding mince unless a dog can't chew or needs cooked food while recovering from illness. Raw meat on the bone is way better.

Our club training rings are fully fenced. However, our issue with offlead reliability relates less to dogs 'running away' and more to dogs interfering/distracting other dogs during training. We don't seem to get a lot of bolters but even with intake testing we do get zoomies. Fortunately changes to our intake testing seem to have pretty much resolved the occasional aggression issues we were experiencing some years back.

I think jumping training Susan Salo style and grids would be good. Dogs and handlers enjoy it. Also a handling box. The sooner handlers ping that its not just about running along beside the obstacles, the quicker they seem to want to learn to do 'proper turns', to handle serpentines on one side (you have one on that course) and the value of speed and distance. However to do that sort of handling you need to build obstacle drive and that's where the jump training is good.

I'd say NSW/ACT are using more advanced training methods. No leads on anywhere here, no harnesses either. Flat collars only. The problem with the 'hands on' teaching method is that it fails to teach the dog what it needs to do to trial. That means independent completion of obtacles on both sides of the hander (not just on the left) at distance and at speed. If all people want to do is to have a bit of fun and have no intention of getting serious then 'hands on' LHS only handling is fine. If they want to trial then they'll be starting from scratch and having to retrain the dog. Touch a dog on an agility course and you'll be disqualified. I am of the view that you don't help handlers by teaching them using methods that can't be used or have to be unlearned down the track. Far to easy to "handle" to compel also. I'm teaching level 1 classes at the moment. After 3 weeks, dogs are being released by handlers to run ahead to a targetted obstacle and to wait until released to run over an obstacle to the handler. They are learning to jump both away from and towards the handler, to take up a desired contact position independent of handler position and to handle on both sides on the flat. No full height obstacles of any kind.

Sandbags at the beginning and end? If the dog doesn't have to step over them it should work. Can the bases be weighted by adding something inside the pipe? I would never recommend handlers be taught to guide their dogs through them in the "push/pull" method. The dog should be learning to complete every obstacle independent of handler guidance from the get go and its a hard enough obstacle to teach without starting in that method. That means using channels, angled weavers or guides or 2 x 2 and getting the handler out of the picture from the start. We all have opinions on how to train but any method that relies on the handler guiding the completion of the obstacle is going to be hard to undo as speed and distance are required. The lead issue is neatly solved at our club. Any dog that can't demonstate focus under distracton and a recall doesn't get to train. Wrapping leads around jump uprights, bars and weavers is unsafe. The temptation to use the lead to guide the dog is almost irresistable and the possibility of checking the dog as it jumps is real. A tab is sufficient for a handler to hold between sets on all but the smallest dogs anyway. You can even get stretchy ones that don't dangle or tangle the dog. I don't agree with dogs being "held" or guided by a lead at any stage. It's too easy to compel even subtlely. We start see saw with a table under one end or both to lower the angle and the dog is never guided over - only lured. Its always hands off. All contacts are taught with a contact strategy before they get to full height too. I have heavy metal bases with wider support parts that don't intefere with the stride of the dog.

Little and often. Dont' try to take big bits off.. just little ones and reward or distract. Buy a good set of clippers - makes such a difference. Some peanut butter or fish paste smeared on the fridge door, do ONE and reward and stop. Or yes, when he's asleep.

In my opinion, no. You're removing his option to retreat if he is unsure and making him a sitting duck if a dog decides to have a go at him. Yes. I suggest joining an obedience club and giving him opportunities for more controlled socialisation with other dogs. If you're really concerned, consult a good behavioural trainer.

I don't think that was it. I think you were on one side, Bundy on the other and the lead did the deed. It also pulled a few jump bars down.

Wasn't you Vicke, PM just sounded harsh even though I know that wasn't her intention. If you mean me, I didn't mean to. I said you should be proud of your dog and I meant it. I'm a bit gobsmacked at what you were expected to do and my heart went into my mouth when the weavers fell. I can think of dogs that would have set back months.

You should be proud. Your dog kept trying even after having the weavers fall on him. I just said I was surprised they asked so much of both of you. To do a see saw and a full height dog walk in the first session is just about unheard of at clubs I know. Next time if you want to leave a lead on, get yourself an agility tab or cut a cheap lead down so it hangs above his legs. It still gives you something to grab if you need to. Its the instructors responsiblity to ensure that everything is safe for the dog and the handler. Long leads and pegging weavers are things you shouldn't have to make decisions about.

So you made the decision to purchase and raised 3 dogs before this one? Or was that your parents? all mine, what that got to do with it anyway? Comes down as to who made the decision to buy what. Your questions on puppy raising made me peg you as a novice owner.. seems I was wrong.

If that was your first ever agility training session, I'm surprised they asked so much of you. I agree with Vickie - lead should be off (so should the harness by the way) as it interfered with a range of obstacles. He was a VERY good boy - quite clear he doesnt' know what's expected of him at a range of places on the course but he had a go anyway. Weavers should always be pegged - you demonstrated why.

So you made the decision to purchase and raised 3 dogs before this one? Or was that your parents?

couldnt agree more! If a Stafford is a Stafford no matter the colour, I have to ask myself why people are paying through the nose for blues. Clearly both colour breeders and buyers ARE judging the book by its cover because demand for the colour is high (despite known health issues in dilute x dilute matings) and the dogs are being sold for far more than other coloured pups. Deliberately breeding dogs that have a one in four chance of a colour related skin condition IS unethical. I don't care how you dress it up. And every breeder jumping on the bandwagon of blue and every buyer that feeds the demand is contibuting to the degeneration of the standard of the breed. If you think blue Staffords are generally good examples of the breed then all I can say is you can't have seen many others. No point in saying anything to blue Stafford buyers. They don't want to hear anything. They rattle on about how their dogs are just Staffords when its plain they wouldn't have wanted one in a more 'common' colour. Ah the irony - blues ain't rare, the only thing special about them is the price.

If she cannot see the back door from her bed, my guess is she'll probably never sleep in it. If she must be outside, I suggest you buy a proper kennel and position it with a clear view of the back door.

My experience is that its better to space dogs out over a few years. Two young pups may be fun but two very senior dogs isnt'. If your pup is happy on his own, I'd be waiting for some time.

Don't take it for granted that he'll stay that way. As RSG says, many bull breeds grow less tolerant of other dogs as they mature. we have no intention of reducing the amount we socialise her. We are aware it's an ongoing thing. We have met a number of adult dogs who aren't tolerant of younger dogs I hope you understand that intolerant adult dogs aren't necessarily the product of lack of socialisation - sometimes its quite the opposite. Your girl's "puppy license" is about to expire. Watch for signs of intolerance of her and by her.

Don't take it for granted that he'll stay that way. As RSG says, many bull breeds grow less tolerant of other dogs as they mature.

See this is part of what's pissing me off! She said she would dearly like a Standard Poodle but they would be too big!! ;) If she said she was getting one from a shelter I would care as much but she is going to a "Goldendoodle" breeder. The odds of the dog being bigger than a GR are pretty good. If she got a SP bitch, there are plenty of smaller ones. She's buying a genetic lottery. That's fine if you like gambling on a family pet.

If I had $10 for every Lab or GR x poodle owner who'd said to be "he/she turned out bigger than we expected". ;)

That combination of breeds may be prone to hip and elbow issues, PRA and heart problems. Odds are the "breeder" won't test for any of them. The dog could be wool, wire or long coated. Odds are it will shed and be a nightmare to groom. The pup could grow up to be far larger than they expect though - that's pretty common. No point in labouring the "puppy farm" issue to people who don't care to listen. Save your breath. Honestly.

They sure can! Desexed dogs have tied with bitches before.

I've had a dog do this too. I ran cool (not cold) water over his tackle to reduce the size and manipulated it back in. The things we do for our dogs. ;)