poodlefan

I'd call it a problem when the dog demonstrates behaviour likely to result in harm to it.

I'd say its pretty uncommon. I don't know the mode of inheritance but I do know that I've never seen one or heard of one in this country. I have clipped brindle poodles. Any idea what colour their parents were? Solid colours can mask brindle (eg. in SBTs) so two solids could produce brindle offspring.

I'd say its pretty uncommon. I don't know the mode of inheritance but I do know that I've never seen one or heard of one in this country. Hmmmm...... something new for Deshonko Kennels maybe :D Think of the money they could make with this new rare breed Deshonko is already onto the whole "rare" colour thing.. its a good earner.

A yellow or green discharge can be a sign of infection. Are the inside of the eye rims redder than usual? I don't muck about with eyes.. I'd be seeing a vet.

Bite inhibition has to be taught. Given that buyers of DDs don't tend to be experienced dog owners and get bugger all advice from their dogs breeders, my guess is that failure to address the issue in their pups is the root cause of that issue. Early separation of pups from littermates doesn't help either.

I'd say its pretty uncommon. I don't know the mode of inheritance but I do know that I've never seen one or heard of one in this country.

Poodles can be brindle although it is a disqualifying colour. Brindle is not an acceptable colour in Yankee Cockers but I dont know if it occurs in them. ETA Brindle poodle pic

Eucalyptus can be toxic to dogs in high doses and has no proven effect on fleas. A detergent is pretty harsh on coat too. For a supermarket shampoo, something like the Exelpet conditioning shampoo is probably good. Fido's is a good reasonably priced brand too. I'd suggest you ask for breed specific recommendation in the Retriever thread.

Yep.

What brands are you shopping around for? Peperone (have a banner here) have the best prices on Chris Christensen by a long shot.

Dogs need less food after they reach their full height. My guess is your girl is just about there. Chicken wings and drumsticks. lamb necks (quartered) and ribs would all be good for a dog her size.

Pewithers: Well unless your dogs can stand on their tails like Kangaroos do Pewithers, the chances of them using what God gave dogs for extra grip wen turning at speed or in rough terrain as effective weapons is pretty low. Dogs fight with their teeth. I can't picture any dog madly manoevering to strike an opponent with their hind legs. To stand up or over an opponent would expose the belly - not smart in a fight. Some breed standards require rear dew claws or even double dew claws. The fact that the ANKC standard requries them removed in your breed doesn't mean that they are weapons. Indeed, if they were why would a standard for a Livestock Guardian specify removal of something that enhanced the dog's ability to perform its function. And how would a claw so curved as to embed itself in the dog if not trimmed perform effectively as a weapon on any animal? Dogs lack both the anatomy and the correct nail shape to effectively gut anything. If you can point me towards a fatal dog attack that involved the dog killing with its hind legs or disembowling an animal with same, I'd be obliged.

If its blue, I'd say you're looking at anti-freeze as the poison.

Cut her back HARD. Half a cup of food IN TOTAL is plenty. Dogs are opportunistic = they will eat till they burst. She simply doesn't need that much. Incidently, if you feed meat off the bone and only home prepared food, your girl's diet is deficient in calcium. I'd recommend you feed a "lite" kibble and some meat on the bone and that's it. One chicken wing is a decent meal for a dog of her size.

Pumpkin is supposed to be full of sugar. Mmmmmmm I must go and have a google. its full of starch, not sugar. As it is cellulose based, its pretty much in undigestable form anyway.

A lot of folk like Sketchers. I went for a down market version from Payless Shoes. Given that Howie's 'customised' the toe of one with his teeth, I'm glad I didn't pay top dollar

I think the general answer would be "more than I have". Seriously, its not about numbers, its about quality of care. There are people who shouldn't own a pet rock and others who could manage and care for quite a few dogs. The RSPCA need their heads read. Anyone with over four dogs is a hoarder but an owner that provides their one dog with a water bowl and crap food, never walks it or allows it out of the yard is just peachy.... wonderful.

It's only harder than it sounds for we owners. Halve her food.. literally. Make up the bulk she'd have had before with mashed (no butter) or dry baked pumpkin. Unless she's a big dog, a cup and a half of food is a fair bit.

The red's colour will probably fade but at least she's got some certainty around size, coat colour and temperament. Tell her to socialise the pants off it and get it into training ASAP.

GSP's: You know what? 10's of thousands of Australian PETS are killed every year because their owners don't want them. Shall we ban pets? Pecisely what do you think will happen to all those greyhounds if there is no longer a greyhound racing industry? My guess is the breed would be close to extinct within 10 years. Prohibition is only the answer if that's the result you want. Clean it up IF it needs it but personally I think these sorts of campaigns are ill informed and misdirected. Now if you want to talk about cruelty, lets talk about the selectors decisions on recent Australian cricket teams.

Your clients can practice lead outs and sending ahead to a target between visits. With those two skills you can do quite a bit.

Yep, I prefer 4 separate leads. Makes it easier to position the dogs and to correct a tight lead if one dog forgets its manners.

I can recall going to the forest one day with FHRP.. dogs just boiled out of the car while a couple of people stood there gobsmacked. I think we only had 6 between us then. :D

I had my weave pole bases made at a metal work place. For jump uprights, shorter training ones might be the go. If the dogs are unlikely to be jumping competition height, you don't need them particularly tall anyway. How do you get handlers to keep their dogs jumping fit and lean if they only participate occasionally?

If I was genuinely concerned that dogs would bolt off, I'd not have them in class. Its hell for other handlers and a risk to the safety of the dog if its in an unfenced area. I'm happy for dogs to be onlead between exercises (in fact we insist on it) but whilst on equipment, the lead shouldn't be in the handlers hand. If they have it, its almost always in play (usually without them realising) and most tend initially to hold the lead with the hand closest to the dog when that's the hand they need to be signalling with. Enter the agility tab or the telephone cord style ones. There's plenty for a handler to grab when the dog finishes and that's when the normal lead can be clipped on. Dogs can wear both at the same time. The tab or short leads shouldn't reach below the dog's chest. Any el cheapo lead can be cut down to the right length - send your handlers to a Reject Shop or similar and they can cut them down. A knot in the end is useful. We do a lot of luring and rewarding with toys too - they are great for toy motivated dogs to build drive after obstacle completion. For use in class though dogs need to be under control.