poodlefan

Well done!!! I bet that sleep was wonderful.

Hi Helen, Given that the ingredients of this mix are largely cereals, there is a lot of undigestable filler in it. If there are seeds in the dog poo, that's an indicator. Dog's really don't gain much nutritional benefit from cereals. Some of course, have adverse reactions to cereals. Are you looking for a general nutritional supplement? If so, I suggest you could do better.

Sally: Very wise Sally! Youngsters and sleeping dogs alone would make that a good decision. Not all dogs growl before they bite by the way.. which is one reason you shouldn't discipline a dog for growling.. deal with what provoked it, not the action itself.

I left my youngest dog together with the older dogs when I was at work during the day but I made sure he got time home alone (mainly when the older dogs were exercised) and also got taken out alone. He got an hour alone every morning and got taken out by himself a fair bit. Had there been a big size discrepancy between the pup and the older dogs, I'd have separated them. I'd not leave a big pup and small adults or a small pup and large adults alone unsupervised - too much can go wrong.

I'd consult a behaviouralist but the best advice I can give is to hasten slowly. Let the pup spend as much time as possible with socially confident dogs. Never force an interaction.. let the pup call the shots. You will have to be realistic about what can be accomplished with a pup that's missed out positive interactions during such an important developmental period. Timidity may or may not lead to aggression.. that's for a qualified professional to advise on.

Nahhhh ..... you've contributed much in the way of common sense and informative posts over the years, PF. Too many "smiley stamps" for valuable information for you to ever look like an idiot. Note to self - must try harder.

OK Cavandra, I see your point. Note to self: Playing DOL Police is liable to make you look like an idiot.

15 kg.. have you got a full body pic of him??

Mollydog, I'm sorry to hear of your battle to control your dog's epilepsy. I can offer no advice beyond suggesting a referral to a veterinary specialist in this area. I fail to see how a debate as to the cause of epilepsy in dogs assists the OP people, especially as there is no one cause identified or agreed. If the OP's dog has been vaccinated as recommended by his/her vet, then pointing the finger at him/her for being the "cause" of the dog's problem is basically kicking someone when they're down. Given that this is the OP's first post and that she/he is seeking help, it's hardly very sensitive. If you want to debate the pros and cons of vaccination, start your own damn thread although it's all been said before anyway.

This wasn't meant to be a wind up ML. In this case the dog's coat was harsh and discoloured due to months of extensive medication for haemalytic anaemia. It was only shaved to reveal the new healthy coat growing back. I've only done it once and I have no problem with the reason for which it was done. It was done at the request of the dog's owner who has put show, obedience and agility titles on the 6 or more BC's they've owned. This is the first time they've ever had a dog shaved. I suppose that still makes me a #@#@ in your eyes?

Hey ML, I got to clip nearly a whole Border Collie once!! A 10# blade does a nice job.

I use a damp cotton pad... There is no way I'd put a baby wipe near a dog's eyes.

Ah well, no clippers for me. Thanks. You need to talk to all your hairy breed showie mates... someone may have a second hand pair they don't want.

I can not justify $255 (the sale price ) on a set of clippers that would spend 99% of their time in the cupboard. Isn't there something that will work but not cost over $100? Realisticly? No. How about $239... that'll get you Andis single speeds. http://www.itsadogshop.com/category36_1.htm Here they are for $233 http://www.gonetothedogs.com.au/shop/produ...p;ProcessType=1

Tell me about it! All I want is something to replace the human set that I made blunt from using it on the dogs and it's all too hard. I know I don't want the "Pet Trimmer" set for $30 in BigW and that I am not a professional so I don't need to be spending hundreds of dollars but apart from that I've no idea. I just want the best value (quality for price) set of general use clippers. *scream!* ML, I'd suggest if it's only for "general trimming" then buy a set of brand name, single speed clippers. Andis make them. They'll last longer than any cheapie and that's good economy. Two speed are great for doing fiddly bits like faces and feet but if you aren't doing that (not much call on a BC or Bull Mastiff ) then single speed will suffice.

Generally, they are smaller with a narrower blade and less powerful. The blades tend to be fixed rather than interchangeable. I'd not use them to try and clip coat, rather just whiskers, ear hair etc.

Every time your puppy toilets in the house (even the bathroom) undoes any effort you are making to get her to toilet outside. If you allow her to toilet in there during the night, expect her to continue to do it during the day. The key to success is a consistent routine. Put her out and make sure she toilets before you go to bed. Set the alarm for somewhere in the middle of the night, get up and take her outside. Same deal - make sure she toilets and put her to bed. Buy a decent set of ear plugs and ignore all other noises from her. If she knows by making noise she gets attention, then guess what? She'll continue to do it. One toilet stop a night should be sufficient. Make sure you feed her early in the evening and give her some vigorous play time to tire her out a bit.

Where are you? A covered crate may shield a dog from the worst of the elements but it will have very little insulation. I'd recommend you buy or build a kennel (or two) but I reckon the two dogs will end up sleeping in one anyway.

Like I said Poodlefan, I'm more than happy to own up if my dog doesn't work well but what happened to me was neither bad habits or sloppy work on behalf of me or my dog!!! Perhaps your comment was just a general one and not referring to me though. And I won't trial under the second judge I had on sat ever again, that's for sure! Yep, general comment only Ayra. I certainly know judges I wouldn't bother to give an entry to. It's not only because of how they judge me but how they judge generally. If a dog that never works on a loose lead in CCD can beat a dog that does, you've got to wonder what the point is really..

Don't like the judge.. don't trial under them. Tell the club you won't be giving them another entry if they book the judge and why. On the other hand, you won't be doing yourself any favours if you get through Novice with bad habits and sloppy work - it will only get harder.

ML, unless you have a genuine need for cordless clippers (eg using them nowhere near a power point) I'd be inclined to buy one's with a cord. I love my Andis clippers and wouldn't change brands (I've had Wahl before) However, a rechargeable battery will shorten the life of the clippers considerably. Same thing goes for power tools I'm told. They won't be as powerful off mains power either.

Cosmo I can't say anything about the private training scene down your way but there are some trainers up this way that give private lessons. Standard pricing seems to be around $40 per hour. Smaller group lessons are also available. If you are not a member of the Agility Australia email group on Yahoo, I'd highly recommend you join. Not a lot of Victorians on there these days I hear but still highly informative. You could also do a thread asking. Bummer about that person being a fixture at that level.. perhaps a new club would be a good idea.

Soooo this is not a newbie agility dog but a more experienced one? Geeze if you're falling over trying to get in front of the dog, a rear cross sounds like a good option. Sounds like there might be few issues going on but all I can suggest is that you approach the instructor before or after class and have a polite "discussion" about how you want to train your dog and ask what the issues are as he sees it. Unless that instructor takes the class constantly, you probably won't see him again for the next session anyway. I do believe that sometimes there are personality clashes between instructors and students. As you've said, what he seems to think is 'helpful criticism' you see as demoralising - I've seen that before too. Are there no private trainers down there? Frankly, you may get more from one on one instruction than a class but it may be worth shopping around. For what it's worth, at basic levels of teaching I am an utter control freak as an instructor. Your dog is not on equipment unless I am supervising and you do what I say.. but I offer options. At more advanced levels I offer 'suggestions'.. but how you run your dog is up to you.

Why wasn't she allowed to do anything? What was being said to you Cosmo??

I cut down to two meals a day at around 6 months but my dogs are far smaller. I kept Darcy the youngest on two meals a day until he filled out at around 16 months. No weaned animal "needs" dairy - and certainly not dairy products from another species. They are a highly useful source of easily digested protein, calcium and minerals but they are not necessary. The only dairy my dogs get is yoghurt in their BARF mix, cheese treats and the odd dollop of cottage cheese. I feed no cereals... that stuff is just filler. Dogs derive no nutritional benefit from it.