poodlefan

What's that old saying? If you haven't got anything nice to say about someone... come sit by me!

The simplest way to explain it would be to tell your client that a dog's skin PH is different to a humans. Both good human and dog shampoo is chemically balanced to match the skin. Tell your client that good dog shampoos contain no harsh detergents and this will be very important if the dog is bathed that frequently. A good conditioner will also be important. Squirt shampoo is made by Joico (the top quality human shampoo manufacturers) but is PH balanced for dogs, not people.

Lablover: Did you try to blow it or eat it?

Call me paranoid but I don't trust those "silent" dog whistles. I want to be able to hear how loud it sounds. Lablover I'd have gone cold from fear I think in a situation like that. The best you can hope is that you remember that you've got the bloody thing around your neck. Constant practice is the way to go for dog AND handler.

Lablover: Agree. I've watched a friend fumble around in her packed bum bag looking for hers.. it must have taken over 30 seconds. That's why mine's on a lanyard.

I said this to Ashan in PM but I think it's worth mentioning here: If the first response of a dog trainer to a problem you're having is "give the dog to me and I"ll deal with it".. RUN AWAY... A good dog trainer helps YOU to train the dog.

Kelpie I: Yes. I've also used both cues initially.. .whistle and verbal.. then faded the verbal. However I've never gone to an intermitant reward schedule for whistle recalls.. they get rewarded every time. The one time I forgot treats they still came back as fast for every call on that walk. Tangwyn I honestly think dogs are smart enough to situate their response to cues. When I use the whistle, we are out on bush tracks and the dogs know the reward is going to be there. They also know once they check in, more often than not they get released to run again. So they come in faster. When I use "come".. it's often in more 'formal' situations, only intermittantly rewarded and more often than not it may mean the lead is coming on. The dogs still come, but not usually flat out. I am happy for the dog's to have a faster recall on the whistle. Chances are if I use it, I want them back fast. I made the mistake of not using enough for "practice" runs initially... I'd blow it and Darcy would be looking for the kangaroos I was keen to stop them chasing.. little bugger. More "practice drills" has stopped that behaviour.

I feed pork ribs occasionally - only human grade though.

I use one and find it very effective. It gives a clearly audible and distinct tone. I reward the dogs EVERY time I use it. It's really helped getting a good recall of high distractions like kangaroos. FHR's dogs now come to it too. ETA mine is a small bushwalkers metal whistle purchased from a camping shop for $4.50. I wear it on a mobile phone lanyard so it's always ready to go. It sure beats screaming your lungs out!

Nope. I do primarily agility and have obedience "campaigns" when I train and trial. I like lure coursing with the dogs because they get such a blast but I can't see me taking on anymore. That said, if I were to get a dog that was bred to herd or track or retrieve, I'd probably give it a whirl. I enjoy seeing dogs do what their breed was developed to do. Can't see me doing some of the 'newer' sports. I find it hard enough to train for the ones I do now.

The gamble obstacles are always over to one side and usually delineated from the others by a rope or line that you cannot cross to make the gamble. It is a clear sequence that is more or less a straight line in Novice (and a tunnel is often the first or second one to get some flow) but the complexity and angles of the gamble increase up the levels as the distance you have to keep between you and the obstacles increases. In Novice gamblers the gamble tends to be a tunnel and jumps. I've also had contact obstacles. Up the levels, you'll get weavers and more requirement to have the dog work away and out from you. Edited for clarity.

Oh no.. I'm so sorry to hear this. Run free Gilbert.. I remember you finding your forever home... and your natty outfits. He was such a sweetie.

My pleasure... we poodle folk gotta stick together

Leopuppy: I prefer to consider that heeling should demonstrate the dog's focus while it displays three "natural" paces and changes of position. It isn't "natural" for a dog to wrap itself around a handler while moving and there's increasing evidence is isn't good for them either. It's the latter part of the statement that concerns me more than any other. I've said this about agility and I'll say it about obedience.. just because a dog "can" do something, doesn't mean that it should have to. Dog sports are moving the way of horse sports which have been around longer and have seen how ego and competitive spirit can compromise the welfare of the animal. The rules here in Oz say quite specificially "no crowding of the handler by the dog".. .if the dog is coming into contact with the handler heeling that's crowding. If it's happening on turns, it's additional cues. You can get very focussed heeling and 200's without wrapping. As I said, don't confuse that position with focus and enthusiasm as some people are inclined to do. If you prefer the 'wrap' style (and lets face it alot of people do) than that's fine. I'd hate to see it as the only style that got full marks though. It is not achieveable by all dogs (conformation rules some out) and IMHO it's not desireable either.

No, juice and feed the pulp or blend them. If you haven't fed raw before, I suggest you do a bit more reading before making the switch. It takes a bit of effort to get a balanced raw diet.

Nothing a warm soapy face washer won't fix Sally. Lily my white toy poodle enjoys her big red smile. That's only from chewing bones though - any mince never touches the outside of her mouth.

Cooking the meat will usually make it more palatable and kill bacteria but it also destroys enzymes in it. Dogs don't digest cereals well. The pasta and rice are just fillers. If you were to use any, I'd go for the rice. Gluten is a common dog allergen.

I assume we are talking raw honey rather than refined? I know a few people who feed Manuka honey to their dogs.. .$$$$$$

I find making chicken the usual RMB the cheapest. I have found Lenards to be the freshest AND cheapest source of wings and drumsticks. I know they have frames and mince from time to time. I tend to use veggies that are on special in the veggie mix and try to find mince (always human grade) on special too. My housemate's boyfriend sometimes shoots bunnies for the dogs.. there's no way I'd feed farmed bunny - too expensive.

The longer you leave the situation unresolved, the harder you will make the task of toilet training her to only go outside. Ask your landlord about a cat door (that's how small you can have it). You can always buy another door to put there and have a cat door fitted. My vet's view is that toilet training time is limited. If they don't get it at a certain point, they never will. I'm not so sure about that but by having different criteria you will certainly complicate things.

Buzzle: You've answered your own question. The key to successful toilet training is absolute consistency. If you change where and how the dog is and isn't allowed to toilet then you confuse the dog. What would be your understanding of where your dog thinks she's supposed to go. Are pads inside OK? Can she go inside? or is she only allowed to go outside? I don't think your dog knows. The reason small dogs are supposedly more difficult to toilet train can be summed up in one word - owners. It's easier to tolerate accidents and clean them up when you have a tiny pup. Picture every accident your pup has as Great Dane sized.. where will you want her to go? Always outside - my guess is that you'll be answering yes. :p Have you considered putting in a dog door?

Sidoney I reckon people seeking the first, are training for the second. They've equated one with the other.

Best you trade that Coolie in on a mini poodle then..

Your dogs do heel like that , just they are so small it is not so obvious. Heeling both sides helps to prevent problems. They don't "wrap" Pax.. :p I need to find a pic to show you the difference.

At the Christine Zink dog sports health seminar I attended she briefly mentioned seeing problems emerging due to the increasing popularity of this kind of heeling. Picture how my miniature poodles would have to hold their heads to achieve this if they were right by my left hand side .. basically they can't.