poodlefan

Kymythy Schultze Trisven. Her book is Natural Nutrition for Dogs and Cats. My recipe is on here if you search for Poodlefan + BARF . There are a heap of recipes in one of the BARF threads I think the BARF patties are too expensive.

The clicker is just a marker.. it tells the dog it's done the right thing. Rewarding comes after the marker, every time initially and then randomized. Quite a few people use a verbal marker like "yes" also or instead of a clicker. When you first start to use a clicker you "charge" it so that the dog learns that hearing the clicker means it's done something good and can anticipate a reward.

Free shaping behaviour means waiting for the dog to offer all or part of a desired behaviour, and marking and rewarding anything desireable that is offered. For example, if you want the dog to put a paw on a box, you start off rewarding when the dog looks at the box, graduate towards rewarding movement towards the box, reward any kind of touching the box and then reward paws on the box. Free shaping is used a lot for training exotic animals and for less easily lured behaviours like sneezing etc.

Dogs wffering learned behaviours anticpating a reward is pretty common. Is Noodle clicker trained? Have you been free shaping behaviours? Not rewarding uncued behaviours and changing orders around is the way to go here.

A midwife told me that a mixture of lucas paw paw ointment and sorbolene is a good moisturiser/skin protector.

NOOOOOOOO!!!! Could you use something like Alpha Keri Oil on the CC? My scaley [human] friends swear by it. I will have a look at the Alpha Keri oil, I have some as I use that for the Pulik Perhaps dilute it in water to avoid the oily residue. I know the Plush Puppy Seabreeze oil is nice too. How does the CC do on Sorbelene/Glycerin cream?

That is not what we wanted to hear. Its been the only thing that really bring a CC back to nice and soft skin. Doesnt leave a ioly residue which is what I also like This is what happened to my favourite dog shampoo. No longer imported. Maybe we need to get Merson Mal to stock a container full of dog products and ship it over.

NOOOOOOOO!!!! Could you use something like Alpha Keri Oil on the CC? My scaley [human] friends swear by it.

Glad to be of help. I love CC's. I'll be doing more price comparisons with that website.

Eureka!! Petshopboyz have it - and $5 cheaper than Petnetwork.

Isn't that linky to the styling gel? I think Storm is after the conditioning goop.

Could he be catching his hair on something Anita? I've got a toy poodle that must have some Afghan in her way back.. she'll scream like a banshee if her skin is pinched for any reason

Petnetwork normally carry Queen Helene Cholesterol Cream but have it listed as "temporarily unavailable". I did a bit of a websearch and found other products here but not the cream.

Ah yes, the old "donkey dog" impression. One of my dogs did this when I got her (not as a pup) If she's motivated by the ball, then that's what I'd use. Does she like balls on a rope? Try bouncing a ball or swinging the ball on a rope to encourage her..and reward her for moving forward with play. Let her carry it in her mouth if she's happy to move forward doing it. I find pulling on the leash simply encourages resistance and does nothing to teach the dog that being on lead/walking is a positive thing. And yes, you need to train her alone. Sometimes having someone else walking a buddy dog in front can help too.

I wouldn't recommend either of those because they are franchised dog trainers, not behaviourists. I suggest you go to your vet and get a recommendation for a veterinary behaviourist, or see one of the following: K9Force (member here) at www.k9force.net or a veterinary behaviorist from this list. I hear good things about Dr Gaille Perry and Dr Kersti Seksel, both of whom are in Sydney. Edited to sound a bit less short.

This is resource guarding. I really don't think requiring physical submission from him when he does it is a good idea. Given that he's got to the stage of biting you, the only recommendation I would EVER make in such circumstances is to seek the services of a qualified behaviourist. If you tell us where you are, we may be able to recommend someone. It goes without saying that you should be particularly cautious of him with children and with anyone when he is eating. Are there children in the house? In the meantime, adopting the NILIF practice (pinned at top of training forum) certainly wouldn't hurt.

Congratulations, you are the proud owner of an adolescent alpha wanna be. Kind of like a 14 year old boy really. Like all bullies, he's picking the dogs he thinks he can dominate and swaggering around. True alphas are far too cool to bluster when a look is usually enough. I had one of these but in a worse form - Darcy was a granny basher. He'd pick the oldest frailest bitches and subject them to a tirade of snapping and growling. You can imagine how that went over with the bitches owners. The excellent advice I received was to prevent these situations occuring by preventing the targets of his bullying from getting that close and to watch for signs of escalating aggression, which thankfully never came. If it happens remove him from the situation post haste but prevention will certainly be better for him and the youngsters he wants to bully. If you think its escalating, call in a professional. I'd be keeping other dogs out of his face for now.

I'll bet you don't get a lot of guys feeding these to their dogs. Or if they do, I'll bet they don't watch the dogs eat them.

I don't want this to become a separate heights debate but running a 300 dog, beyond Novice all I hope for is passes, with increasing amounts of time to spare within the qualifying time. I also hope to handle well/better, to meet the challenges of the course and to show my dog a good time. I'm not saying its impossible to beat the larger high drive dogs but it doesn't happen often enough to make a place in large trial a realistic goal. I also have a long way to go before I'm that good a handler. With class sizes as large as they are, passes are fine by me. This is one competitor who won't be changing breeds to try and get into the places. It's nice to beat the other dogs in your class height or in larger heights though. You can't win the ring without a pass anyway. The top speed without accuracy and all the bars left up simply doesn't cut it in my book. It's meaningless.

I'd love to have a go.. and am shotgun savvy, but too far away. Will your handler need to fire the shotgun Lablover?

Go for one with the Y fitting in front rather than one that goes straight around the dog's front. It's best to avoid harnesses that restrict shoulder movement.

Dogs derive most of their energy from fat. Increasing the fat content of food will add weight.

If you do a search here on "backpack" you'll find there have been a few threads on this subject before. Size of dog and weight carried aside, two issues impact on whether the backpack has the potential to be harmful *How the weight is distributed on the dog The backpack needs to distribute the weight across the dogs shoulders rather than further back on the spine. * How the packpack straps on. Any harness or backpack that completely encompasses the dogs shoulders will restrict movement. If used often enough, this can lead to health issues. In all harnesses and backpacks a "Y" fitting that comes up between the dogs front legs and then parts to attach behind the head is preferable. I honestly don't know of any cheap backpacks that would be of the better kind. The Ruffwear one from the USA is a great design but it's not cheap. It think it pays to bear in mind that whilst dogs have been developed t pulled weight for man over the centuries, few breeds have the capacity to carry much.

Animallover, they are smart little dogs but he is a baby. He has learned something.. just not what you wanted. One important tip about getting them outside is to let them get there on their own four paws.. they have to learn to find their way to the door all by themselves. That way if they start to head for the door you get a hint that they need to go out. If you spot him getting ready to go inside, rather than yelling "NOOOOO" and startling him.. try yelling his name in a positive way and heading for the back door with him following. And as I said, if you can't watch him, put him where he IS allowed to go. Provided you take him out when he wakes, after he eats, after playing and after he gets excited, once an hour should be enough. If he hasn't gone after a couple of minutes, then take him back inside. Go down the library and borrow a copy of a book called The Perfect Puppy.. its really good for a lot of this stuff. It also has some very good advice about the importance of ensuring that all his experiences with other dogs are positive at this age. I highly recommend you read it.

You DON'T have to be rich to feed a dog well. I bet Dr Harry doesn't feed dog roll though. You DON'T have to be rich to toilet train a dog effectively. I'm not trying to judge you. I'm trying to help you. If you choose to take my advice negatively, that's OK. I don't need to give it. I simply asked you if the method of toilet training was working for you... ??