poodlefan

Maximum: Have a good look at the teeth between his upper canines? There should be 6 little incisors there? Are there only 4 and are they all the same size? Incisor teeth are usually the first to be replaced and between 4-5 months is the usual start time. He may also be replacing molars as well with the big adult canines around the last to arrive. He may be teething already but if not, he's bound to start soon. And yes, a lot of chewing can be expected.

I agree, PF. I've been to two or three of his seminars and from that gathered that he will give a dog a physical correction where warranted. Do you mean HE is thinking about using e-collars (as per your quote above) or are you saying that he says at seminars that they might be used for certain types of behaviour modification. I have heard the latter. If he is talking about (he himself) using them or advocating them he might find himself kicked off the APDT membership though. I've read and heard him speak about their use aversively for dealing with stock chasing dogs. I dont' think he exactly trumpetted that view at APDT though. :wink: I think he's a pragmatist. He believes is using positive motivational training (as has already been pointed out, he pretty much was its first champion) but he knows that some behaviours cannot be modified without the use of aversives.

I hope that never catches on. I wouldn't buy a puppy from a breeder who does that. From what I've read from him he seems to be a "my way or the highway" type of trainer, he is right, everyone else who disagrees with him is wrong with no shades of grey. Keep reading then Midol. That's not what he's like at all. He's got a healthy ego and strong opinons but he's got years of experience and seeing him chat to trainers, I think an open mind also. I bet you'd be surprised to learn he's not totally against e-collars for example. That's something a lot of people dont' know about him but he is talking about using them aversively only for certain types of behaviour modification. Being a vet, and dealing with problem dogs, his focus is on giving dogs the best start in life to prevent training and behavioural issues. Personally I think some of his ideas are very good. His view is that if you want a pup for a family home, buy a pup from a family home. He thinks pups should be raised inside, with the family and all the sights and sounds of a normal domestic environment. I'd be delighted to buy a pup raised in the manner he describes. Look how many posts we get right here on DOL from new puppy owners struggling with toilet training for a start. I heartilyagree with him on his puppy raising views and there are studies that support his views also.

Left and right turns can be a bit of an issue too. I think this thread is rapidly proving what Dr Dunbar says about training method arguments being pointless. While there may be a lot of discussion, I think it rarely changes anyone's point of view.

I've read somewhere that adrenalin can remain in a dog's system for up to 4 days (Rappie where are you? ) A friend of mine who was doing flyball with one of her dogs stopped and said he quickly become a much calmer and easier to live with dog. She was training and competing twice a week. Theoretically, the dog always had heightened adrenalin levels.

You could make up the BARF mix with lamb, pork, chicken or roo mince.

So good solid training is the answer then????? Not necessarily. You won't change the dominance if that's what's going on. What you will do is give yourselves a lot more tools to manage it. A dog that comes when it's called, and is densensitised to the presence of strange dogs is a dog that's less likely to get into trouble. You may see a less intense reaction to other entire males but regardless, training is an excellent idea and a great way to improve the bond with a new dog of any age.

Good for you. Write/type everything down! Questions on flea treatment etc, pup's history.... remember...YOU are paying HIM.. He is there to answer your questions! Yep. Be sure to show him the bare patches.

Desexing doesn't fundamentally change a dog's personality. Not all dominance is sexually motivated. Desexed dogs can be dominant.

Whitka, until you know what's causing this, all you can do is manage the itching. Resisoothe lotion may help. Quititch is another product you can use. Did the vet consider mange or ringworm? Given your pups early environment, I'd be wanting those eliminated.

In addition to the great advice already given, consider fitting her out with a T-shirt for her body to prevent the contact. You can get whizz bang lycra suits for this but an old T-shirt with her front legs fitted through the arms and a knot at the top of her back to keep it tight might help prevent contact with the allergen.

I can't name a single DOLer who I know is a PP supporter in the true sense of the term. Most trainers I know do support the appropriate use of aversives. Where the debate rages is what is an appropriate use and what is and appropriate aversive. PF probably I should have expressed myself better, perhaps I should have said those with more positive leanings, there are certainly those on here who have pretty strong views about the use of certain aversives, but I am not sure what to call them them?? Positive leaners? Mostly positive? As I said I am not totally au fait with things but Anita for one strikes me as a person with fairly strong positive leanings. Not singling her out for anything except how she has come across in several threads. Sorry if I do have you wrong Anita. I'd not call Anita a PP trainer (she can correct me if she disagrees) but rather a "non-confrontational" one. I lean that way also. I dont' see the point in tackling some issues head on when a strategic withdrawal and a rethink on the relationship with the dog as a whole may be a lot safer and more effective. Erny that's an old dog trainer joke I've heard before.. how do you spot a PP trainer? They're the ones with their dogs on lead! :wink:

Anita: I have heard him say this also. He said it when I heard him in the context of it being pointless in terms of actually helping dog owners train their dogs and dog owners with problem dogs. I agree with him in that context. What debate can do is confuse the crap out of people who come here for help with their dogs. Personally I think the practical help you can give or get on an internet forum is extremely limited but sometimes that's not the message conveyed here. Show me two dog trainers and I'll show you a debate. Sometimes its too easy to forget that people who want to use this forum as advice are reading along with the rest of us.

QAYC: I can't name a single DOLer who I know is a PP supporter in the true sense of the term. Most trainers I know do support the appropriate use of aversives. Where the debate rages is what is an appropriate use and what is and appropriate aversive.

The most important things to remember with rewards are: *It's your dog, not you that decides what works best * Variety can be important. You can dry bake cabanossi, devon etc so it's not slimy. Chop it up, place it on baking paper and give it 20-25 mins at 180 degrees. Hey presto, dry easy to handle tasty treats. I use BBQ chook (my dog's favourite) or devon mostly. Darcy prefers a ball to food every time.

My take: Behaviourist: A person who analyses and develops methods for modifying a dog's unwanted behaviour. Trainer: A person who teaches dogs (and/or handlers) cued behaviours. Clearly cued behaviours can be used for modifying unwanted behaviour but the two hats don't always overlap. Whether or not a person should hold qualifications or be accredited is a whole different argument IMO.

There is no reason why (provided the dog door is suitable) the puppy can't be trained to use it very quickly. In the meantime, it could also be held open to allow the pup to go in and out. If you don't want her toileting inside, don't set her up to have to do so now. Prop the dog door open, teach her to go through it and set her day area up so that she can go outside if she wants to.

A Chihuahua would only be jumping 20cm - provided he is sound that would be fine. The A-Frame and the Seesaw could be a bit challenging at first but plenty of toy breeds compete these days.

I'm just raising my second raw fed puppy. I think he was a bit down in pasterns when I got him at 10 weeks (he's a Whippet) but I couldn't tell you if that was a developmental or diet issue. This was Howie at 9 weeks. This is him now at 5.5 months. One of my boys does get a bit constipated if he's fed bones for a couple of days and not exercised enough (eg. if its raining). It's one of the reasons why I do include plenty of veggie pulp in their BARF mix. I expect to have to increase the veggie mix as he ages and his bowel becomes less active.

She plans to have the dog clipped by a professional groomer. I have read not to clip them before 8 - 10 months of age. Is this correct? No. As Megan suggests, a pup needs to be accustomed to grooming. Personally, I'd have it professionally groomed every couple of months (even if it's just a shampoo/blow dry and nail trim) until it's an adult. She is going to have to accustom the pup to regular brushing and combing at home. Such a crossbred is going to matt if she doesn't groom it regularly.

Get her to read the training material here Travel the pup in a crate. If it's not been vaccinated, she shouldn't travel it anywhere. It should stay with its littermates until 8 weeks. Your friend has a steep learning curve to master without knowledgeable assistance. Best she start thinking now about how she's going to handle its coat too.

Salt toxicity in dogs creates neurological issues. That's why you never dose a dog who's eaten something bad with it. It's absorbed through the kidneys and if the sodium levels in the blood get too high, it will result in cerebral edema. Your dog will lose control of its motor functions and suffer from seizures. Maybe fat, not salt may have been the trigger. What happens to the pancreas also affects the liver. I suppose without a necropsy, its all guesswork. Was one performed?

Settlvr has Mini Schauzers - a breed prone to pancreatitis. I know dogs on non-raw diets who have it too. It's not as simple as too much fat = pancreatitis although fat can be a common trigger and avoiding a fatty diet is essential to managing a dog with this condition. Medications including steroids, infections, toxins, kidney disease, metabolic disorders, hypoglycemia and other factors can contribute to the onset of the condition. Obesity is also linked to it. Some research suggests that a diet high in cereals is linked to hypoglycemia so its not as simple as avoiding raw feeding to lower the risk of pancreatitis. There are far too many myths and fables about diet and disease in the dog world. It's not an exact science to feed a dog but I like to feed a diet that's got some science behind it. I'd not feed anything based simply on the recommendation of an internet forum or a dog owner. Do your homework first. Google can provide access to some very good scientifically based research on canine health and diet. BB, I strongly recommend you stop listening o unsolicited advice and reacting to what people tell you is best for your dog. You'll go insane. Same goes for training advice - there are opposing views on any aspect of dog ownership you care to name. Listen to your breeder, do your own research and look at your dog. If she's healthy, stop worrying. You can't please everyone.

Too young for such a limited diet. If she was 16 and crumbly I'd say feed her whatever she wants but just chicken and rice is not balanced. You could feed it for some meals and look at a good nutritional supplement but I would be encouraging a more varied and balanced diet.

How old is the dog?