poodlefan

It had been mentioned before that Norma has given Merna permission to post under the name of chinaplate. I understand Merna will have her own log-in in future to avoid confusion. I thought multiple users of the same log in was a breach of forum rules..

Please don't do that.. you're pretty much asking for serious bloodshed. Feed them seperately. Do NOT let him in immediately after they have finished eating.. he is still looking for food and is prepared to take out Daisy to get it. Leave him outside for at least 15 minutes after his dinner and make sure Daisy is nowhere near her feeding spot when he is allowed back in. This behaviour didn't develop overnight and will not disappear overnight either. You need to continue to work on defusing this situation.. it will take weeks. Daisy does not deserve to be under the constant stress of potentially having to defend her food from a dog that grows larger than her every day. If you insist on feeding them together, she may be seriously injured in a fight. It takes less than 10 seconds for a small dog to die.

Citronella is toxic and an unpleasant smell for dogs.. I'd not be usiing it. I think you need to stay outside with her after eating, waking and playing until she poos then reward her. Ignore any and all advice from a person who tells you to rub your pups nose in poo - they have absolutely no idea about dog training. I think you would really benefit from attending group some training classes at a dog club or with a good professional. If you tell us where you are, we can probably recommend somewhere. If you bought your pup from a responsible registered breeder, that person would also be a valuable source of advice on puppy raising.

I'm thinking this thread is simply a feeble excuse for group shots of puppies. Bring it on!!

I'd not be grading any luxation until the pup was about 12 months old. Grade 1 is not serious and more muscular development may, as the vet suggests, solve the issue. My Toy Poodle had mild luxation when I got her at 8 months and it was not evident at 12 months. I know they'd be fretting but they should listen to their vets advice and not panic.

A cruciate ligament injury is another possibility. Good luck at the vets.. hope it's nothing serious.. could just be muscle soreness.

Yes. Close the laundry door. Make sure that the younger dog never has access to the older dog's food. No dog should have to defend its food bowl. You don't get to choose who the alpha dog is - they do that themselves. I would be avoiding all situations in which the dogs feel the need to compete for food. Every time they fight you are opening the door to a possible tragedy.

im actually still awake in bed, the OH is asleep, and you can hear him running around the side of the house and then back to the backyard, i have peeked thru the blinds before to see what he was actually doing before going to settle him down and he is generally bashing up his teddy or running around the backyard with or without his teddy so as an overall suggestion, leave him to it and he will settle him self down? Yup. "mad minutes" are a frequent occurence at my place.

Stoopid question time: How do you know he is running around if you can't see him and him hitting the door wakes you up?

So you didn't have to do a control test to start?? OK. Without a reliable recall (using motivators is OK) you would not be able to do agility at my club. The first rule at our club is that dogs are never onlead while on equipment - leads tangle around dogs and in equipment and can be used to coerce dogs. You would not have the option to keep her onlead while training with us. Make sure you have something with you that is highly motivating to her and use it to get a recall. Keep her onlead unless your instructor tells you to take her off. Don't delay putting her back onlead when you've done whatever equipment you're working on. Keep her away from other dogs while she is offlead. Offlead dogs coming to visit while others are training on equipment will be one thing that will be guaranteed to cheese your fellow classmates off.

Each club can be a bit different so it may pay to ask them directly. At my club you are encouraged to bring anything that motivates your dog including treats. Dogs train on a flat collar only - no harnesses, haltis or other kinds of collars. You should wear covered in shoes (most folk wear some kind of runners), comfortable clothes and have a crate or lead you can tie your dog up with. I would not allow my dog to greet others unless invited. Most folk want their dogs to concentrate on them. After class may be a bit different. Oh, and bring a sense of humour.. most folk need it at times.

Do your homework.. on breeds, health issues, breeders and puppy raising. Get out and meet owners of the breed/s you're interested in and kick a lot of tyres. There's a wealth of information around about dogs and dog training if you look and ask. There are a lot of myths about some breeds that need to be exploded. Be honest with yourself about what you will offer a dog. No point in nodding that you're OK with giving a working dog lots of stimulation and exercise when you're a committed couch potato and ain't likely to change. Similarly don't buy a high maintainence breed for grooming if wash and wear is more your style. Think about what kind of companionship you want from a dog and select breeds or adult dogs with characteristics that will suit you. Some dogs are very cuddly and people focussed, others not so. Buying a dog that doesn't suit your personality may bring a lot of heartache, no matter how attractive you think it is. Dogs are a long term commitment - think good and hard about potential limitations on your lifestyle that a dog will bring, possibly for around 20 years. Only buy from a knowledgeable, ethical source.. be it breeder or rescue. The less you know about dogs, the more knowledgeable that source needs to be to match you to the right dog.

Real stud dogs are comfy in pink..and they know the girlies like a SNAG.

Hard to generalise. If using stackers can genuinely teach muscle memory and they are positive reinforced, then I don't have a problem with them. However, like all training tools, the potential for abuse is there. I'm not one for giving a dog a choice between compliance and falling..there's nothing positive about that. People teach horses to free stack all the time without having to perch their hooves on things. Frankly I expect that four thin pavers or secure pieces of carpet could produce the same result.. all you need to give the dog is a marker for its feet. [says she whose dog doesn't free stack ] Mind you, I've not taught it either.

KAT1 I suggest you replicate Monday night and spend some time playing and training him. What kind of play and games is he getting before "bedtime". Is there any reason he can't sleep in his crate in your bedroom? I would not be returning to his crate when he calms down. I would also be putting the crate where you (before bedtime) are with the door open so that he can get used to it while you are around. Make it a pleasurable experience.. feed him in it and give him toys in there. Is the crate covered? If not, put a blanket over it. It's meant to be den like.

Download the title application from from the Dogs ACT website, fill it in and either send it or take it out there in person.

I think a lot of younger dogs lack confidence with the dog door - I strongly suggest you scratch the word "lazy" from your vocabulary when puppy training - dogs rarely think that way. Tie the dog door up. Once he's using the hole confidently and regularly to toilet outside, reintroduce the flap. If you want him to go only outside, then he needs access unless you are prepared to toilet him each and every time he needs to go. That won't happen unless you can supervise him constantly.

Yes, that's what Howard (my youngest) had.

Have you wormed him? The easiest way to tell if you pup is getting enough food is to feel his ribs. There should be a light covering over them but you should be able to feel rib with the flat of your hand without having to apply pressure.

Can you fence him off an area in the house paddock? Ah yes, the joys of farm poo - I have a poodle who's a big fan. She eats it and rolls in it.

Unless you are there to stop him, giving him access will pretty much guarantee rolling. Is there a place like a run you can keep him where he won't have access to manure?

Dog Geek I have seen Affie boys with some of their leg hair banded to keep it out of the way of the pee.. How high up his legs is he peeing on them.. gaiters (like poodles wear over their leg poms) would work for lower leg peeing.

It's not a good idea to fill ears with anything before a vet consult. You cannot see a dog's inner ear from the outside. Head for a vet - better safe than sorry.

You need to start from scratch.. Outside when he wakes, after eating, after play and whenever he looks "sniffy". Every accident he has inside reinforces more of them... you have to keep him accident free. How is he housed during the day and where does he sleep at night?

Congratulations on getting a Miniature Poodle - just wonderful dogs. I have two black minis. Puppy should be fine in a run with good shelter during the day. Bear in mind that in Perth summers, you will need to ensure the run has good shade to keep him/her cool. I agree that the Dogstardaily website has lots of great information on puppy raising and that no dog needs wheatbix. Is your puppy going to be allowed inside? Crate training won't work for toilet training if you can't hear your puppy stir in the middle of the night and take him/her outside. You may wish to post in the Poodle tread in the breed sub-forum. Lots of good advice to be gained there.