poodlefan

My suggestion is that you take her to see a trainer or have one visit you. It might simply be mouthing, it might be play or it might be something else. Unless someone sees the behaviour, they wont' know for sure. If you've not already signed on for some puppy training classes, I suggest you do so ASAP.

Unfortunately, this is how some pups learn that when an older dog tells them to back off, they'd better listen. Your older boy probably only bit once, if at all. A big snap can leave a gash. My older poodle boy used to pin pups that were hassling him - and they learned not to. My Whippet pup also learned the hard way that not all dogs appreciate his special brand of attention.. but he did learn. Don't blame your older boy - he gave plenty of warning signs and the cocky young whipper snapper didn't listen. In dog terms, he had it coming. Pups heal fast.

Does the chicken mince have bone in it?

Not one that old, anyway. There are quite a few rescue dogs going agility but they were generally obtained as pups or adolescents.

Pity you don't see more Labs in that condition.. especially in the show ring.

I like the working labs. If I was to own a Lab, I'd like a dog like the one below. Check out the fact that it has a waist and muscle tone. It doesn't have a head shaped like a brick though. ETA: Thanks FHRP for the photos.

What do you wipe her eyes with? What is she fed?

Some folk use touch footy shoes. I use "off road" cross trainers with a nice raised grip on the sole.

We poodle folk have hides like rhinos. No one but other poodle zombies wants one. It's a yin/yang thing. What some people love about their dogs will be what other people don't like at all. No need to take it personally. I dont' see it as much different to liking or hating anchovies. Its just a matter of preference.

Bobchic: Unfortunately, I don't think this is true. Puppies can be badly injured if they are allowed to indulge in too much rough play, especially with adults larger than they are. Staffies are notoriously hard players. I would limit play and separate them initially while you are away until you can guage what sort of play they are getting up to. If the older dog isn't enjoying the attention from the pup, then separation will be even more important.

If he still has one.. he'd be sponsorship poison and what sponsors say matters. NFL is a family oriented sport. Who in their right mind would pay to sponsor a team that employed a convicted felon and animal abuser. Best he take up boxing.

If he is crate trained I think you've solved the issue. Return him to sleeping in his crate, in your bedroom at night.

I'm a big cash & sash fan.. even a $2 prize is useful to everyone. At least allowing people to pick from a selection of things gives them choices.

I think its possible that your dog got used to a higher level of stimulation in kennels than he's getting at home. Much of the behaviour you describe sounds like a dog's version of entertainment. I think its stimulation as much as discipline that he needs. What toys and training does he get? Does he have boredom busting toys? Can you walk him on lead?

Oh, I definitely agree But sadly I think there is a lot of misinterpration when it comes what socialisation is and that's when you see people starting to run into problems. Well, we both know the most common misconception.. taking your pup to the offlead park and letting it get slammed and picked on as "socialisaition". K9Force wants his dogs neutralised for good reason.. he needs more focus from a working dog than I do from my pets. I want my dogs socialised for good reason - it makes them better canine citizens and companions.. but I'm happy to call for focus rather than expect it more or less all the time. If you can't get your dogs focus at all.. that's a training issue.

I don't see heightened arousal as a goal of socialisation Huski. Tolerance and perhaps enjoyment, but not heightened excitement. I guess 'socialisation' can have different meanings to different people - you only need to look at the number of dogs you see whose owners intentionally socialised them to see other dogs as super exciting and an instance where they think it's good for a dog to have heightened excitement, the number of dogs who can't walk past another one without getting excited, barking, jumping, wanting to engage in play etc. And the owners don't see a problem with it because their dog has been 'well socialised'. I think it's a misunderstanding of the process. To me a well socialised dog is the one that takes everything in its stride.. dogs, people, buses, animals.. not one that's jumping out of its skin and hyper aroused.

Huski: I don't see heightened arousal as a goal of socialisation Huski. Tolerance and perhaps enjoyment, but not heightened excitement.

But, and this is a serious question for those who understand this all better than I do, would a dog who has been neutralised to see various distractions as of a low value and nothing as exciting as what the owner has to offer i.e. the dog has been conditioned to see everything that's good/exciting as coming through the owner, be less likely to be easily distracted by 'new' experiences like seeing a kangaroo? And less likely to seek it out (say as a prey drive thing) because it looks to the owner for permission first? I mean in comparison to a dog who is trained with the traditional socialisation method of assigning a high positive value to new experiences like other people and other dogs and as such, the dog has been conditioned to seek rewards/satisfaction away from the handler. Short of creating Stockholm Syndrome, I don't see how you could create a dog that viewed everything but the owner as "neutral". How can you neutralise for something the dog has never experienced. How can you compleltely neutralise a natural drive?? IMO it's not the value the dog places on the distraction that's important but the owner's ability to get the dog's focus. They are not the same thing. If you control the dog's behaviour in the face of highly motivating distractions, that's more desireable to me than creating a dog that finds nothing but its handler exciting.

I don't consider public dog parks to be a place where its possible to do controlled socialisation.. I avoid them too.

If you have a good recall, it shouldn't be a problem. Dogs are just one distraction that you need to proof for. Even if your dog regarded dogs as uninteresting, there would be other highly motivating distractions that could create issues. I know all about kangaroos in that department. Controlled socialisation should incorporate using recalls and rewards to obtain focus, as well as obtaining focus before allowing socialisation to occur. :cool: Methinks many of the issues owners encounter with socialisation is about how its done. I'm talking about pets here though, not working dogs.

Are you buying from an ANKC registered breeder that has had their breeding stock health checked for hips, elbows, heart and eyes? If not, buy elsewhere. I'll confess to being mildly concerned about the idea of a breeder allocating the pups on a "first in, first served" basis. I don't buy the breeders explanation of the pup's shyness either. Any breeder I'd be interested in would know about about the pups temperaments from observation, not guesswork. You'll have 15 years to regret buying the pup if you make the wrong decision. I'd definitely want to go back and if I saw shyness again, I'd not be taking her. Good quality labrador pups from responsible, registered breeders aren't exactly rarities.

Very strange. The OP says she has bites all over her body, if there are that many fleas that they're biting humans to that extent I would expect to be able to see them. The dog would be crawling in them and they'd be clearly visible, especially if it's just been clipped. I was also thinking allergies. I'm wondering if any family member has spent a few nights away from home recently - could be bed bugs.

I enjoy watching my dogs play with other dogs but at times and places of my choosing. Good social skills and an ability to focus on me when required aren't mutually exclusive IMO. If you can't recall your dog away from play with others, that's a training issue - and a safety one too.

What Nekbet said. If you don't feel differently in a few days, return the pup. Every pup deserves to be treated as special. If you got the pup solely as a companion for your first dog, I honestly don't think that's a particularly good reason. If you only want one dog, only have one.