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poodlefan

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Everything posted by poodlefan

  1. PTD: Definitely not poodle coat.. it's not got the tight curl of it.
  2. I find it very sad but then I have to remember that they have food, water and shelter and definately whilst not condoning it is alot more than some other dogs have. I did try and encourage her to rehome them (they had a new baby) but she wont. She might rethink that once she wants the child to access the back yard.
  3. Peter doesn't shed. I kept waiting for him to lose his coat in the heat, but as yet I'm still waiting... Does the length of his coat just keep growing PTD? Yup, It was really long about 4 months ago and I clipped it because was just too hard for me to maintain! It's wavy, thick and wooly It looks wirey in your avatar. Have you got a close up shot. "Wavy, thick and wooly" sounds like poodle coat.
  4. Makes you want to scream doesn't it. No poodle breeder I know would sell a pup to an outside only home. At least they have each other.
  5. Peter doesn't shed. I kept waiting for him to lose his coat in the heat, but as yet I'm still waiting... Does the length of his coat just keep growing PTD?
  6. Thanks PF. One is white and black the other is Ruby. I try and offer my (limited) advice I even lent her my brand new clippers as they hadnt had a haircut in about 10 months - In the end one had to go to the vet to be finished off. I told her if she bought a blade then she could borrow my clippers just so they get more regular haircuts. This is another horror story of petshop bought poodle crosses. She assures me that after the last time she will brush them more and clip them more so hopefully only time will tell. I will tell her again about washing them before clipping - hopefully she listens. OK, stick with no shorter than #5. She'll need a few lessons.. things like hot blades and where you can cut dogs need to be taught. Why won't she take them to a groomer??
  7. You also need to look at whether clipping WILL make the dog cooler. You dont' see people running around in extreme heat with no clothes on. You don't see desert mammals with no fur. Why do people assume that denuding a dog of natural coat will automatically make them cooler? Dogs do not generally lose much heat through their body skin. They loose it through panting and to a lesser degree through their hairless areas. A coat protects from sun and can keep the heat from penetrating to the skin. Frankly many pet dogs I've seen could do with losing weight, not fur to stay cooler. Well I'd be listening to poodlefan over me anyday She has a million years more experience than me Pete has a beautiful figure - I just wish he'd teach me his secrets Bear in mind Pete that I clip my poodles entire bodies I think a well groomed long haired dog doesn't need clipping unless it doesn't shed. Regular grooming to remove dead undercoat is all most double coated breeds need and single coated long haired breeds need their coat for protection.
  8. What colour are they? I'd not go shorter than #5 on a pale skinned dog. She's going to have a bugger of a time getting any blade through a dirty unbrushed coat though. Tell her to buy more than one blade.. dirty coat heats blades and dulls them. She'll be needing to change blades and to get them sharpened frequently.
  9. You also need to look at whether clipping WILL make the dog cooler. You dont' see people running around in extreme heat with no clothes on. You don't see desert mammals with no fur. Why do people assume that denuding a dog of natural coat will automatically make them cooler? Dogs do not generally lose much heat through their body skin. They loose it through panting and to a lesser degree through their hairless areas. A coat protects from sun and can keep the heat from penetrating to the skin. Frankly many pet dogs I've seen could do with losing weight, not fur to stay cooler.
  10. I don't check every day but I do check each time after they've been in long grass. However I do tend to feel if there's anything trapped in coat when patting them anyway. Just running hands over coat pick up a lot. Fingers crossed none of mine have ever had an embedded seed. I think its worse on the smooth coated dogs as the poodle coat does seem to trap a lot off the skin.
  11. Only three tips - I have way more than that! * Read Ian Dunbar's training text book on here before you get the puppy. * Socialise, socialise, socialise - you only get one chance to set the pup up for life. * Don't encourage or allow any behaviour you don't want to see in an adult dog. That includes mouthing, rough housing, chasing games etc. * Do accustom the pup to being handled and groomed from the word go.. that includes things like clipping nails. * Puppy pre-school is only the beginning of training. You need to go on to a normal obedience school and train for at least 6 months. * Stay out of public offleash parks until the pup is grown. You cant do controlled socialisation in them without the risk of bad experiences.
  12. tlc - a #10 on the feet is fine - as long as you maintain them. Most groomers/poodle folk would use a #30 (and some even a #40) but you need to be quite confident and quick doing the job to avoid clipper rash. Re: plastic combs - they are really only useful (in my opinion) on a coat which has been groomed-through, bathed and dried; then you DO get a nice finish. If used on a knotty/dirty coat they will make the coat look 'choppy'. You are better off using a #5 or #4 on them if you clip before bathing and then once bathed & dried thoroughly, finish off with a #5F or #4F. In the summer I used to like using the #8.5 blade which leaves coat short & sleek without the "shaved" look of a #10. LOVE the #9 on cockers but may be too short for your lot, Barb. What blade do you use on the Vizslas Jerojath.. I have access to two I can practice on.
  13. Start the pup as you mean to go on. A secure run with shade, a kennel and plenty of boredom busting toys would be the way to go. As SBT has said, growing pups need fresh air, sunlight and room to move.
  14. I use a 30# on feet and a toe blade on the underside for between toes. Even then they still get the odd seed between toes.
  15. I do #4 for the black boys and 5# for the white girl. I coat them if the days are very cold (they have access inside) and at night.
  16. Big assumption not always proven in reality. I speak from experience. Sometimes the dog is going to lunge because it wants to attack anyway. Too late to find that out when the dog has yours in its mouth. :D And sometimes it might just save your dogs life. Let me tell you, if a dog is coming hard at you straining on the end of a lead and its big enough to get your dog in its mouth, you tend to do what you think is best to prevent an attack. I've moved out of range of some dogs to have te owner change direction to bring them in on mine.. you know, the "he just wants to say hi" brigade. When this "friendly" dog is walking stiffly with a fixed hard stare and is pilar erect, I don't take them at their word. If the dog is coming, it already knows your dog is there - you won't draw attention to it by getting it out of initial attack range. I'll take a few bites if it means my dog survives but fortunately few DA dogs are HA. They have to get past my boot anyway. I think the "picking up your small dog makes it dominant" theory is a crock of shite. Most small dogs don't have death wishes and its an owners responsiblility to defend their dog isn't it? 3 out of 3 attacks on my dogs over the years have been GSDs. Most poodle people are dead wary of them.. something in poodle body language doesn't sit well with GSDs so don't be offended if poodle owners avoid you - sometimes their actions are based on bitter experience.
  17. Judy: Find another puppy preschool - that is outdated and potentially quite dangerous advice. Agree with the others, first eliminate potential medical reasons for the behaviour THEN focus on other potential triggers. You could just have an intolerant pup with a low bite threshold that the instructor scared the shit out of. There are far more effective and non-confrontational ways of teaching tolerance for handling.
  18. Simple solution = no photos. Does she want her family to share her day or be run off their arses saving her money? If the answer is the latter, then tough cookies I say.
  19. Yep. I lied though, its an Andis blade. See below. They basically have the comb and blade in one. They give a pretty good finish for pet clips. They certainly speed up the grooming process too. I've got the 1.6cm one but I think theres' a 1.9 one too. Andis leg blade Wooferwares carries them. ETA: Clipper world has the 19mm leg blade
  20. For a body clip, anything from about #4 to #7 would be OK. Unless the coat is very thick, I'd not use a #7 except in summer. I love the leg blades you can buy now. I have the Oster one and it has the comb built into the blade. With a bit of scissoring, it gives a very even finish. I do the same as you PW, clip the body, wash and blow straight then reclip with the same blade. It speeds drying time.
  21. #7F is fine for the bodies PW - that's what my black boys get in summer. Use the #5 on the legs. It won't take long before they have a bit more length.
  22. Bugger. :D This is the downside of buying a purebred pup from a registered breeder - the earlier you get involved during the breeding process, the greater the chance of disappointment. If you don't want to have to wait, I'd ask the breeder who'd they'd recommend or visit the owner of the bitch (or both). Will also PM you a contact.
  23. If you are going to walk the dogs with both leashes in the same hand, I'd not be walking your older one in a head collar, particularly if he walks well on a loose lead. Keep the leashes separate or remove the head collar and walk both on flat or martingale collars. Tugging on a harness isn't going to accomplish much I'm afraid.
  24. Meeche: There are many reasons why you might choose to train your dog to accept a crate as a safe place of confinement: * To keep her safe and secure at any number of dog training or competition events * To teach self control and a quiet time when you need that from her * To provide a safe feeding place beyond the interference of other dogs or of children who don't understand the dog shouldn't be disturbed while eating. * To build drive, teach a wait and for training. * To have a place you can put her when non-dog friendly, frail or very young folk visit your house * To keep her safe from prying fingers or rough handling from youngster * To transport her, camp with her or have her inside at places that won't tolerate dogs otherwise * So that she won't fret if her activities need to be restricted for health reasons And most importantly, so that you can use the top of the crate as a coffee table in your lounge room. A covered crate is like a den if you train your dog to use it. In many homes the crate doors stay open and the dog rests there by choice.
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