poodlefan

Save your money and post some pics here. We all love 'guess the breed mix' threads. You've got a crossbred. Knowing for sure what's in the mix won't change your dog or help you find one just like her. Enjoy them for the unique individuals they are.

Actually, its up to you.

It certainly doesn't sound ideal. There's also a risk of a fall, rather than just wear and tear. You could try fencing if off with some plastic garden trellis or similar.

The primary alternative to the Elizabethan collar is constant supervision. If you are there to prevent the dog from worrying the surgical wound (and many don't) then you don't need to fit one. What's the issue with ECs? They certainly don't work well with a dog door.

You'd be better off asking this in the Miniature Poodle breed thread. Head over and ask and I'll put a response in there. The abridged answer to your question though is yes, that's enough room provided you take the dog our and they travel really well. They want to be where you are.

Congratulations BI, I'd strongly recommend you join a dog club and/or continue his obedience training for the longer term. His most challenging period (adolesence) is still to come so the more you reinforce your leadership through training, the better. My personal rule is no onlead exercise walking until pups are 6 months old. Free play is just as physically challenging but less hard on growing bones.

That might be the case for fear aggression but I can't see it working for other forms of aggression. A dominant dog showing signs of aggression is NOT going to de-escalate if the other dogs doesn't leave. Analysis of the dog would be critical here.. and it would be potentially dangerous to get it wrong. I'm thinking if the aggression is a learned behaviour it can be manipulated with this type of procedure. I think as you that a dominant dog would be a problem. Sounds like a very low key version of "flooding". "Trickling" perhaps?

CP: That might be the case for fear aggression but I can't see it working for other forms of aggression. A dominant dog showing signs of aggression is NOT going to de-escalate if the other dogs doesn't leave. Analysis of the dog would be critical here.. and it would be potentially dangerous to get it wrong.

If she's not taking weight at all on it, I'd go to the vet. If she's taking weight but limping, I'd rest her a day or two and see how she goes.

I'm glad to hear he's doing better. :D

How's he doing now CW?

I would either rest him or swim him. A limp is a symptom of pain and dogs, being predators, are hard wired to push through it. Either give him exercise that doesn't stress the leg (eg. swimming) or give him a couple of days rest.

I have to say that the more I see of this breed, the more I like them. How fiery are they these days? I note what you've said about them not necessarily being the instigators of anything Bob but do you tend to have problems with Bedlingtons in a multi dog household or is it more with strange dogs? How 'trainable' are they?

No cats, just one dog. I have not really noticed any black dirt in his coat, I just noticed he scratches himself every now and then. And my mum has red spots which she claims are flea bites. I scratch myself every now and again. It doesn't mean I have fleas. If you can't find any evidence of fleas on your dog, you may have a more general infestation. Neighbourhood cats are a common culprit.

Perhaps it might be a good first step to establish if your dog has fleas. He's white so flea dirt in front of the base of his tail or elsewhere in his fur should be obvious. It looks like black dirt but will turn red if wet. Are there cats in the house?

You've got three methods for tackling any unwanted behaviour - replace it with a desired one, deflect it or deter it. Replacement doesn't happen much with mouthing but you see it when pups are taught to sit before they get attention, rather than jumping for it. Deflecting is offering another article to chew or removing yourself from a situation where they are mouthing you. A pup cannot chew your arms if it cannot reach them. If you're sitting and pup jumps up to mouth, you can stand up or push puppy off. This is easier for adults than kids. Detering is adding an aversive to teach the dog that behaviour it considers rewarding (and lets face it that's why most of those unwanted behaviours will NOT be grown out of) is no longer enjoyable. Techniques like squirt bottles, placing pressure on the pups jaw etc make the experience unpleasant. The tricky part is figuring out which of all of the possibilities will work on your little terror. Obviously starting at the lower end of the scale is desirable but for some tough pups, you have to be pretty aversive to deter them. This is where a good trainer can really help you. I'm no fan of clickers for dealing with highly self rewarding unwanted behaviour. Nothing you're going to mark and reward is going to stop a dog doing something it really enjoys. This is why I believe there is a place for intelligent and humane use of aversives in dog training. ETA: Oh, on the how long should it take issue there are a lot of variables. It depends on the consistency with which the behaviour is dealt with, the level of the aversive (if one is used) and the temperament of the pup. The most important factor IMO is the consistency with which people deal with the behaviour. You can't expect a pup to learn quickly if some family members want to play chasey tuggy games or rough house while other are trying to deter any mouthing. This happens a fair bit.

Welcome to the "OMG what were we thinking" phase of puppy ownership. We all go through it. He is mouthing - this is what pups do to explore their environment. Your job is to teach him to inhibit his biting. I'd suggest you teach him that he is not to place his mouth on you at all. He sounds pretty full on. Perhaps you might benefit from an in home visit by an experienced trainer. If you tell us where you live we may be able to suggest someone. If people are telling you to "alpha roll" him (ie hold him down on his back) then that is potentially dangerous advice which I strongly recommend you ignore. Have you discussed this with his breeder?

Ditch the mince unless its chicken mince with bone in it. If it's packet pet mince its loaded with preservatives - not good for any dog. Try chicken wings or other meat on the bone instead. What did the breeder recommend you feed?

Hey bro...I placed my order for junglerockwheeler first, I need him coz I wanna do surity wif him. Where's me rockwheeler PF, I sent you money in unmarked bills money like u aksed me 2 I'm gonna haf to get heavies on yoos Jungle Rockwheelers are 5 weeks old now. Good to go! How about my two in teacup size? How big's ya teacup?

Hey bro...I placed my order for junglerockwheeler first, I need him coz I wanna do surity wif him. Where's me rockwheeler PF, I sent you money in unmarked bills money like u aksed me 2 I'm gonna haf to get heavies on yoos Jungle Rockwheelers are 5 weeks old now. Good to go!

Just back from negotiations with a Qld puppy producer. All is well at Deshonko. As the inspectors have to give you notice of a visit it's never an issue.

If your ABPT doesn't have sensitive skin, try the Fidos Emu Oil - leaves a really nice sheen on the coat. Don't start me on dog shampoos.. .I have so many here. I think nothing of paying $30 for a bottle of dog shampoo but mine comes from Woolies.

Fidos do an Oatmeal and Baking Soda that's pretty good. A lot of DOLers swear by Aloveen. I'm buggered if I know why. I think it's overpriced and pretty ordinary.

Where's Puppy now ? It would be lovely to see before and after pics Ooops. Wrong thread.

I would highly recommend the topical application of medicinal grade Manuka honey for this wound. Howard had a very similar one earlier in the year. Along with a course of prescription ABs I applied honey twice a day to the wound. It healed really well - no scarring. The honey will form a protective covering, preventing scabbing. It's great stuff. Howard learned to love the treatment - he got to lick the excess honey off my fingers! Thanks for that. Will grab some and give it a try. The good stuff (UMF 10 or better) is expensive but its handy to have around and a jar or tube lasts a long time. The stuff I use is Medihoney which comes in a jar or tube. Apply it liberally. It will end up looking a bit black and crusty from the dried honey but that washes off very easily with warm water.