poodlefan

Personally I think quite a few folk who think their 'show' line dogs can work are deluding themselves. "Interest" is not proof of working ability. It's an indicator only. A gundog that shows interest in birds (as do my poodles and Whippet) is not necessarily a gundog that will work at pointing, flushing or retrieving. The proof of the instinct to work is working. If people are that convinced their dogs retain the aptitude there are ways to test it. Personally I take my hat off to any breeder who both exhibits and works their dogs. They are few and far between and frankly I think if more people took an interest in the working side of their breeds there would be more opportunities to give dogs an outlet for their instinct and a better standard of dog in the long run. Somewhere between "bench" and "working' lines there is an overlap. Where that overlap sits is where I think most breeders should be aiming for with their breed programs. A beautiful but timid Dobermann, a GSD that hides behind its owners legs when strangers approach, a hard mouthed Retriever.. they're all out there. If there were objective working tests for more breeds and a working and a CH title were required for GR CH I think many breeds would be in a far better position than they are today. There is an old wives tale that says the darker a Golden Retriever, the greater it's instinct for work. Makes you wonder where that breed is heading.

I don't think that the skin itself is any thinner but all sighthounds don't have the same levels of subcutaneous fat as other dogs do. That fat cushions the skin. Remove it and the skin lacks the same protection other dogs have.

Try him on the I/D cans when you can get some. Darcy can be a fussy eater when unwell and he loves the stuff.

Hills I/D cans is what Darcy has had for recovery food. It's basically chicken and rice.

Snake bite has two effects: * the venom's immediate effects (neutralised with anti-venom) * the severe toxic assault on a dog's immune system. A lot of folk recommend very high doses of Vitamin C to help the dog overcome that. Injectable Vitamin C seems to assist the dog to deal with the toxins.

How fresh are those carcasses? I'd be giving him nothing but piglet mix or cooked chicken and rice Trish. His stomach needs time to recover if his immune system is under assault. No raw food for the moment. Nothing hard to digest. Hunching may equal stomach pain. Darcy has had two severe bouts of HGE.. I have sooo been here.

Nup - we use Omo Sensitive. Eucalyptus ditched. Will go back to plain water and the Enjo mop. Have to be honest I haven't mopped the floor for about 4-5 weeks and I'm the one who uses the eucalyptus. Steve mopped it last week and used the Enjo. What has Grover eaten at home when he's come back since this began Trish?

Do you wash the dogs' bedding in a eucalyptus based wool wash Trish?

Yeah - I agree. I just don't see how it can be the metal crate. I think it must be the wood if it is something here. The bedding is knitted blankets that we've had for months and months (probably a year). They just get washed every week and re-cycled through the crates. His are the same ones he had BUT they've been washed and dried and put back in. I understand what you mean about the drip - we will just take him straight back into the vet first thing in the morning. We will toss the plywood and stick something else on top of his crate temporarily to stop him walking around in it if he makes a miraculous recovery again. Cleaning the floors - we use an ordinary mop and water with eucalyptus oil in it. I'm not a big fan of chemical cleaners so we don't use them wherever possible. Ditch the eucalyptus Trish. It is toxic to dogs in high doses. Grover may have developed a sensitivity to it.

Completly agree and did not say aggression can be fixed, not sure what I said that made you think otherwise Aggression is more prominant in some breeds than others and some lines within those breeds are worse than others I was agreeing with you SPR!!

I can't see it being the crate Trish. The metal would be inert. What bedding does he have in the crate? I think the wood does sound like the most likely culprit, as it is both above and beneath him in the crate. He might also be going downhill a little because he's not being hydrated via the drip.

I love to watch it but at times I hold my breath. With a Whippet, they're sooo fast. On the Whippet forum I'm on, a couple of owners of Whippets have lost them to broken necks this year. But they love to run and I think it's good for mind and body to let them. Life is not without risk.

Personally SPR, I don't think aggression can be "fixed" I think its possible to lower triggers and reactivity, but it always there.

I would suggest keep her under control (ie on-lead) while you go out of your way to introduce her/socialise her with other dogs. Correct any antisocial behaviour firmly, and lots of praise/reward for being good. Small steps with lots of patience and time. It worked wonderfully with my (rescue) dog - she was 11 months and not well socialised when I got her, but 4 months later is happy, well-adjusted and with many doggy mates that she could (eventually) happily romp off-lead with. Despite all the various fashions of the day, it's very simple really: positive and negative reinforcement to shape bahaviour How exactly does a person go about this with an aggressive dog and with the other dogs as unknown quantities. Why deliberately place a dog into situations where you KNOW its going to respond aggressively? Chances are you'll lower the trigger to aggressing, not raise it. You don't manage any unwanted behaviour by deliberately engineering situations for the dog to aggress. There is no "socialising" here.. just triggers to more unwanted behaviour. The critical period for this dog to bond with other canines has come and gone. Furthermore, other peoples dogs should not be used as guinea pigs for an aggressive dog's owner to experiment on. That applies to training classes as much as casual encounters. People go to them to teach their dogs skills, not to assist others with managing dogs with issues. This person needs someone who can analyse what's going on and help her manage and desensitise the dog. Yes, it's all about positive and negative reinforcement but unless you know what you're doing and work with dogs in controlled situations, you're inviting disaster. Sometimes all that's achieved is a dog conditioned by negative reinforcement not to show warning signs of aggression and that goes straight into fight mode.

C'mon Grover.. get well for your family.

Oh crap. Fingers crossed he gets better and you get to the bottom of this.

Has this dog actually bitten another dog?

If the coat is badly matted, it will be an ordeal for the dog to have matts individually split and removed. Clip it off and hopefully they'll keep the grooming up while it grows back.

It's great that the breeder is being so supportive. Fingers crossed for a good outcome for your pup.

Sometimes increased muscle can stabilise the joint. It doesn't sound like that's a likelihood here. You could always ask for a specialist orthopedic consult.

I'd have thought a breeder might be more inclined to know when something's not right. The x-rays should put the matter beyond doubt as to when it occurred.

Personally I think if the breeder sold you a pup with a broken tail, you should be entitled to some financial compensation for treating an issue that should have been plainly evident at the time the pup was sold to you.

They'll probably charge you for removing them and shave your dog to the skin. With matted dogs there are few options other than that. I doubt a pair of pet clippers would be up to that task. Are they so bad you can't split them?

What sort of muscle condition does she have? Is she lean and fit?

Great news Cosmolo!