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poodlefan

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Everything posted by poodlefan

  1. Eep! I guess I didn't think of that because I have short dogs and almost never cook Dogs can grab all kinds of things we'd rather they not have. Dead, rotting things seem to be a speciality with my dogs.
  2. One example .. is if the dog grabs something it's not supposed to have - perhaps a cooked chook, or tonight's rack of lamb? It is a wonderful thing then for a dog to willingly give up the prize !! Cooked chop bone would be a classic example. A friend of mine went to grab her little resource guarder to get one off him after he stole it off a plate at a BBQ. End result - 20 stitches to her arm. She took the issue a wee bit more seriously than "isn't that cute he thinks he's a tough dog" after that. I'm a big fan of leaving dogs undisturbed while they eat. But its good to know if you HAVE to take something off them, you can.
  3. And when you want to take the bone from them, and they don't want to give it to you, then what do you do? There are situations when what the dog wants and what it wants to control are NOT what you can allow them to do.
  4. Sue would be my recommendation either way if she'd do pet training.
  5. There's no way I'd be taking her bones from her. Its the fast track IMO to seeing you bitten. I'd either be calling her off them and rewarding that or teaching her to surrender them for a better treat. If you hear that growl, take it as the warning it is and don't push it. Biting comes next if warnings are ineffective. Resource guarding is a perfectly natural canine behaviour that's actually beneficial to the dog. Is she attending obedience training? If she isn't, she should be - compliance is something that needs to be reinforced, particularly with an adolescent.
  6. It's called resource guarding and you are right to be concerned. Do you have children? I'd recommend professional help but for the meantime, I would only give them to her while she is crated. I would call her out of the crate before removing them have her wait while she sits in front of the crate before putting them in there.
  7. I agree. Can't believe people stand there and let their dog's do it. Fatsoman, there's responsible and irresponsible in all aspects of the dog world. Being a show exhibitor doesn't guarantee a higher standard of behaviour. Unfortunately.
  8. This was my post on the topic last year It cheeses me off in the extreme to see people walk away from piles of their dog's poo. And WHY is it always those who'd dogs produce steaming mountains of mousse like poo that do it?
  9. Some things need to be planned for. I'd rather my dogs be taken on by someone who agrees to take responsiblility for rehoming them than see them end up at the pound.
  10. I've never heard of one. I'd rather my dogs be rehomed (separately if necessary) or PTS than condemned to live out their days in kennels. Not even the best run kennel environment is a substitute for a real home.
  11. Sometimes I think it pays to bear in mind that while we may have modified some dogs' temperaments with selective breeding to make them less territorial, many dogs remain a territorial pack animal at heart. Wild dog packs kill or drive off strangers to their territory. I think it also pays to bear in mind that many of the folk saying they restrict their dogs' interactions with other dogs own more than one dog - their dogs have a social outlet. I'm not interested in exposing my dogs to physical or mental trauma so I control who they meet. The world is full of dog owners who have no real understanding of their dog's temperament and even less control of their dogs. I like to avoid them. Some of my dogs arouse prey drive in others. One of them runs like the wind and can trigger it too. That makes me perhaps more cautious than owners who don't confront these issues.
  12. PICS REQUIRED STAT !!!!!!!! ;) Deys so cute when they're bubs.
  13. Has he had a vet check up recently?
  14. Poodlefan, she doesn't get large bones as we've had to deal witha stomach issue with this one. She can't have lamb bones, or marrow bones or we end up at the vets. She's that bad she bleeds. So I feed her chicken carcasses which she's fine on and semi frozen atlantic salmon heads which she can tolerate as well. She loves them. She completely destroys large marrow bones. None of our previous were able to do that but she can't have them. I have put all her toys in a milk crate so she has to pull them out one at a time. Today she has decided the milk crate is far more satisfying. Lots of damage on the crate but thats better then the house. Interesting. I have a theory that dogs that don't get things to chew will find them to fulfill an inate need to do so. Can I suggest you find the biggest nylabone on the market and try her on that? I read somewhere that chewing can produce serotonin - the 'happy' chemical in the brain. Giving her something appropriate to chew may solve the problem. if she doesn't eat the stuff she chews to bits something like a motor cycle tyre might be worth trying.
  15. No, it would have been the previous time she visited - a few years ago now.
  16. Dr Zink's view is that from a veterinary perspective, there isn't a convincing argument to desex boys. I'm certainly not going to be desexing any male pup at a rate of knots for both showing AND development reasons.
  17. She said on her last visit that she'd never do a sports dog before the age of 14 months.
  18. In which case, it might be quite useful from a medical perspective. Poor dog's probably wondering what hit it.
  19. Was there no repeat of the behaviour with a larger dog?
  20. Just read this.. VERY scarey. At least the dog appears to be asymptomatic at this stage. The key question is whether or not it can transmit the virus.
  21. Personally I think the notion that desexing causes weight gain is a myth. I think what often happens is the desexing coincides with the end of growth and the slowing of a dog's metabolism at maturity. Owners fail to adjust food intake and voila - fat dogs! I bet once slimmed down, your sisters dog would have more energy.
  22. Socialising is only good if it achieves what you want for the dog. A dog that needs to work in any level of distraction is not a dog you want to build a lot of value for other dogs or other people with. You might socialise such a dog to ignore such things. A timid dog that will be intimidated by play is not a dog that you would socialise except under very controlled conditions. Same goes for dominant dogs. Some breeds of dogs do not have the temperament to deal well with high levels of socialisation with strange dogs. Some breeds of dogs are naturally wary of strangers and interactions need to be controlled. There are a lot of variables and there is no one size fits all answer to the question of how much and what kind of socialisaition is best. Furthermore the peak socialisation periods (first and second fear period) once, gone cannot be repeated. You're not "socialising" adult dogs when you allow them to play IMO. You're merely reinforcing early socialisation lessons (or not as the case may be).
  23. Join a dog training club. Safe playmates are one of the side benefits.
  24. Yay, found the link here Barrier frustration and social hyper-arousal might go part way to explaining the situation. Are you sure what you witnessed was a predatory response? If it was, imagine repeated exposure to prey with no satisfaction of prey drive.. it would be pretty frustrating.
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