poodlefan

I have trained my Whippet to recall to a sports whistle. From puppyhood he has been rewarded each and every time he comes. I'd still not guarantee I could recall him off a rabbit but he comes back pretty quickly after a chase. Your parents dog needs higher fencing, or a safe roofed run. Fence jumping is self rewarding behaviour that's damn difficult to cure so prevention is the best course of action. Recalling a sighthound in prey drive is a real test and my best advice is to prevent the stock chasing completely. This pup would no doubt benefit from regular obedience classes at a club or school that uses positive motivational methods. She sounds a little bored. Whippets don't do well with heavy handed, aversive training methods. They simply stop trying and/or bugger off. Tick the "whats in it for me" box and they tend to be more cooperative. They are not untrainable dogs. You just have to park your ego and make it fun and rewarding for them. If carrying on like a pork chop in public is what it takes then that's what Whippeteers do. However I'd not be letting a Whippet offlead in many public places. My boy goes offlead at the club and in the bush - that's it. Howard knows sit, down, wait and walk on a loose lead. He is now in his third level of agility training. He will train for food and toy rewards and I use both. He trains offlead amongst other dogs, some of whom do the odd zoomie. It can be done.

Could you list some please?

Indigo who's the boss you or the dog. You are the pack leader and the dog does as you say. You also say this....she heels when I insist. Well insist she doesn't dig. You also say she isn't destructive in the house....of course not, you can get to her quickly to correct her. Now nobody tell me I don't know what I am talking because I do. 1. Instructor at obedience 2. Titled dogs in obedience 4. Passes at Best in Trial level 5. Held an obedience judges licence. When you find the dog digging, run towards her making loud noises. Push her to the ground and roll her around manhandling her. This is what the pack leader would do if she disobeyed. Let her know it is wrong to dig. If that fails think up things that are displeasing so that when she digs she will blame herself for it. It's also very easy with electric collars. Put one on her and let go out side and when start to dig zap her. If you are not standing close to her and do this every time she starts to dig she will soon blame herself. Make the dog blame herself for digging. She will soon learn that digging brings bad results for her and she will think she causes it and should stop. Just make sure you are well away from the dog when she gets zapped in this case you want the dog to blame herself. If you want the dog to blame you and see you as pack leader, try the first method. I agree with this post. You can stop wrong behaviours, the dog will associate digging with your displeasure. Tell the dog what to do...(or not to do) and it must comply. So how is manhandling or shocking a dog telling the dog "what not to do". It's just an assault for no reason that's clear to the dog. If the dog is already digging, it probably wont' even know why you did it. There's no command, no cue, no required behaviour being taught. Indeed, the poster who recommends using a shock collar you shouldn't be near the dog at all. Pack leader dogs don't beat up other dogs for doing what is natural, non-confrontational undirected behaviour. The analogy doesn't wash with me. How does "leadership" get involved when you want the dog to "blame itself" for doing something wrong. This is a perfect illustration of why "obedience training" and "behaviour modification" should not be considered to be an automatically complementary set of skills. Having an OC Obedience dog doesn't necessarily mean you know anything about modifying unwanted self rewarding dog behaviour. Hell I can think of at least one multi state title winning obedience trialler whose dogs could not be reliably recalled under even low distraction outside the ring. Conversely, I can think of very talented behaviorists who will never darken a trialling ring.

Yep, I have found the same thing. It keeps it a much lower key affair. My boys both come back to me if they are uncomfortable. I would have tackled the Lab. Much easier to catch and once you've got him the little dog is out of immediate danger and can then be picked up if required or simply put back on leash. If it's on leash and the Lab tries to menace it again, it can't bolt and you can crouch down and protect it as above. Better for everyone as the Lab doesn't get the fun of chasing and the SWF doesn't get the terror of being chased. Often the small dog can come around and decide they aren't so scared of the big dog after all. IME if you are going to pick up a dog at the dog park you should do it when no other dogs are watching. If they see the dog in your arms but didn't see it get there they seem to be less excited by it, although it's still no guarantee. One time my dogs found a dead possum in the yard. They were quite interested, but only poking it with their noses. The moment I lifted part of it off the ground they both got extremely excited and started to bite and try to play tug with it. As soon as I put it back on the ground they left it again. Weird, but it's the same sort of thing with small dogs sometimes. It's like when you pick it up it becomes a toy to bite and pull on. No way would I grab anyone's strange dog - its a fast recipe for a nasty bite. Kicking I would do and damn what the owner thought. If dogs are coming hard at your little one, I'll pick mine up regardless of whether or not dogs can see. I'd rather kick them off while they leap than watch them shake my dog to death like a rag doll, play tug of war with her or tear her to pieces. You do what you have to to keep your dog safe and bugger any lessons it's teaching other dogs. Training is for the dogs owners to do, not me. Anyone who lets their small dog run with stranger large dogs is asking for trouble IMO. Dogs don't even have to be aggressive - rough play injures and kills also. CW: If the incoming dog knocks you flat on your arse to get to your dogs CW, you'll be in no condition to help them. Stand up on your feet.

Are the dogs eating the compost Fifi.. protein sources in compost are the fastest way to get maggots I can think of.

PD: There's your reason for her reaction.. Move the books or shut doors. When YOU go out the door, a tasty bone might be a good idea. Or stock up on old phone books.

I hope you told her that next time you'll be calling the rangers, not her.

SkyeGSD: IMO GSD pet owners would be better served training and socialising their dogs/puppies at an Allbreeds club and in particular around smaller dogs.

Are Fauves bred to go to ground Trish? No, not that I can find though Lordy you would think so!! They are bred to hunt small game in packs - rabbits, roe deer etc. They are not a breed traditionally used for truffle hunting which, as a French scent hound, you would think they would have been used for if it was a breed typical trait. Daphne doesn't dig like Marie does - don't get me wrong, she will dig at times, but not like Marie does. The only solution we have is that she is not in the yard or near the gardens unsupervised and never will be - even on lead she will dig if I'm not watching her. I wonder if they get a seratonin high from doing it..

Are Fauves bred to go to ground Trish?

How about the OP give the dog some exercise and mental stimulation before physically chastising the dog or using an electric collar? Your approach assumes the dog is at fault Oakway. I think other less extreme responses should be tried. This is not a "leadership issue". Dogs dig because they find it pleasureable - not to give you the finger. When digging is the "coping strategy" then what? The OP could put the dog in the car, take it down to Norman Duck oval and let it have a run. Hell, even a drive is stimulating. Gundogs ARE a working breed. They were bred to work all day in the field. Coop one up and sometimes you get results you don't want.

Then tell the council that the owner isn't playing ball and you want a ranger sent out to pick them up.

Stop calling the council and take them to the pound.

How is the pup today?

Unsold pups are usually PTS If you'd put time, effort and care into raising a litter, why on earth would you sell them to a store that will put a 300% mark up on them and allow the first person with enough balance on their credit card to walk out with one? Vetting homes and providing after sale support is part and parcel of what responsible breeders do. Frankly if every member here had bought their pup from such a breeder, the posts asking for advice in the Puppy Problems forum would drop dramatically. Sorry, but I'd strike any breeder who sold litters to pet shops off my list of recommendations. Breeders who care for their dogs give a damn about where their pups end up.

Indigirl: OK. Why do you think she's doing it? My money's on boredom. Give her a good hour walk every day for a week and see if she still does it with such fervour. I'm betting she doesn't. You can't expect an adult gundog to get no exercise without seeking stimulation somehow. Personally I think a half hour's training and one hour of offlead exercise daily would make a massive difference to both your lives. I think you need to stop blaming the dog. You're the one who controls her life.

This is where crate training is very helpful. :D

If she needs further encouragement, this is about the best recipe for snakes in your yard that I can think of. She needs to secure the compost or get rid of it completely.

Asking your dog to sit in the face of what he fears makes him more vulnerable. Robbed of the opportunity to move away from the threat, he has chosen to shut down rather than fight it. You are the leader. Protect him by placing yourself between him and what he fears. Move him away as soon as possible to create distance.

Has she been wormed since you had her? I'd not rate petshops as high on the list of sources of advice on puppy nutrition. Basically, once you've parted with your cash, unless they promote what they sell, they really don't give a damn.

Beagie: As a volunteer instructor my first reaction to this issue would be to refer the owner to a qualified professional. Most ordinary dog trainers know better than to try to assist on behavioural issues for which they are not qualified to advise. A person fronting up to my club with a highly reactive dog would be quietly advised to take it home and consult a professional. Group classes are no place for an aggressive dog. It doesn't help the dog and it certainly doesn't assist the instructor to help others in the class to train theirs. Given that one of the dogs doesn't appear to be purebred, why would a breed club be the appropriate place to seek advice. Breed clubs are for fanciers, not behaviourists.

If it were my pup, I'd want its stool tested. I'd be looking to eliminate coccidia as a reason for the runs. How long has the pup had diarrhoea? There are better puppy foods around with a lower amount of cereals than Hills. Head over the the nutrition thread for some recommendations.

A bland diet won't "help" a pup with the runs. It helps a pup RECOVER from gastro intestinal issue by not taxing the digestive system unduly. Fasting is a better bet if the condition is current. If it continued more than 24 hours, I'd be off to see a vet.

Is your dog a Pap? A patella luxation could produce the results you describe. I'd recommend a vet visit. The other option is that your dog simply got wrong footed or stepped in a hole.

Any premium weight loss or seniors food would be suitable. Try Artemis or perhaps the Canidae Platinum. They are both on the Pookinuk website.