poodlefan

We use a light snack (7%) fat and low protein that I have only found so far at the RSPCA stores. As well as Denta bones to counteract the fact that there is no Bones in her diet - they are also low fat and low protein. The Sunflower seeds were just very very poor judgement on my behalf. Don't beat yourself up. When folk say things are good treats for dogs, they often don't have particular dog illnesses at the front of their minds. Incidentally, wild bird mix would be a better bet than sunflower seeds for the birds - too many sunflower seeds lead to dietary insufficiency in birds.

Doesn't matter how much you feed or how much he weighs Mason - he's how he feels that matters. I hope mince isn't all you feed?? No he gets bones and veggies too - he is an allergy dog so his allergies dictate what he can and cant eat. He also gets eggs sardines etc about 1x a week. BTW this thread has gone way off topic, I was asking about training yet somehow it is now about how fat my dog is and what I feed him??? The reason I asked about weight is that fat dogs are often lethargic and unmotived to train - weight and fitness matter in these issues. Get weight off a fat dog and they often become more interested in doing things - not really rocket science but I've seen plenty of amazed owners over the years. Hard to do good heel work or agiltity as a dog when you're lugging a lot of extra kilos. The reason I asked about what you feed is because you told me he was fed mince. Diet also affects health - this can be an issue too. Its just my opinion but EVERYTHING matters and I always run down a "checklist" when folk say they are having trouble motivating a dog. Taking a holistic approach can sometimes throw up issues that others overlook. What your dog does on the training paddock is affected by alot of things that happen off it. After you eliminate physical causes for lack of motivation, the next place I look is to the owner. I'd be looking at your body language, timing, how interesting you make it for the dog and a range of other issues that are difficult to determine over the internet. I've seen plenty of handlers that are about as motivating as undertakers on the paddock. Some never time rewards well or dont' reward at all, drill the dogs into chronic boredom or just don't make it fun. Mason I start with the premise that there's nothing inherently 'difficult' about a dog and look to the owner first. That's probably what I'd be asking your instructor about.

Doesn't matter how much you feed or how much he weighs Mason - he's how he feels that matters. I hope mince isn't all you feed??

One thing is common to all obedience clubs, regardless of how good they are - its an entree to a network of dog folk who share an interest in having a well trained dog. Outside club hours, my dogs socialise with dogs owned by people I met at my club. If I need to go away, they are minded by people I met at my club (and I mind dogs for others too). A dog club can be the focus of a community of responsible dog owners and that community is a really beneficial one to be involved in. The networking, sharing of useful resources etc between members of that community is pure gold. Best vet Best chiro Best place to buy dog stuff These are all things shared by that community - that and far more.

Personally I think its important for every dog, regardless of how experienced the owner is. It may be old hat to you, but its not for the dog. Ongoing socialisation with other dogs in CONTROLLED circumstances is important. Ian Dunbar argues its as important for adolescent dogs that it is for pups and I agree with him. Also, dogs are not cookie cut out of the same mould. Every one is different. So the fact that you've trained one doesn't mean an automatic easy time with those that follow. Techinques change, methods change as people learn more about motivating dogs. Going along to a good club can be as beneficial for owners too.

I cant really put a name to the method I am using, I take little bits from here or there when I go to a seminar, read online etc - all positive reinforcement. I dont train for longer than 10 mins at a time because I dont want him to be bored etc ( we do go to class though and that is an hour but its a lot of play etc. Here is a recent pic showing his weight. If you put the flat of your hands on his ribcage Mason, can you feel rib? He looks a tad beefy to me but I'm an agility weight fanatic. Labs should still have an obvious waist tuck. If food is what motivates him I'd be using food for everything.

Good - one thing eliminated. What are you training him in and what methods are you using? Reason I'm asking is that one person's "very laid back" is another's "bored rigid or unmotivated".... just running down a check list.

He knows give, he knows most things, he is very smart etc I just battle to get him into any sort of drive mode, he is very very laid back for a lab, not very boisterous etc until he is offlead running around with other dogs he loves that but the rest of the time he is sometimes 'too chilled' and its hard to train him when he is like that. He will do anything for food so maybe I must just stick to the 2 food game. I will also chat to the senior trainer at our club and see what she recommends doing. Edited to add - now in the hotter weather even though we train before 7 he is very hard to motivate etc You can always teach him to fetch a food pouch after you throw it. Clean Run make a whole range of dog food containers you can throw. Serious question - is he a "big" boy? What's his weight like? What sort of training methods are you using?

If an unknown German Shepherd turned up in the yard of my house, I'd probably yell at it too. I'd make no assumptions about this dog other than it is lost. There's every chance it did not live in that street.

Your dog is a Labrador? Mason? How about you teach "give" and use a ball retrieve as motivation??

Given that they make oil out of sunflower seeds, my guess is that was the issue - too high in fat. They can have up to a 50% fat content. I have a friend with a dog that suffers from pancreatitis. She is EXTREMELY careful about treats and stopping others from giving them to the dog. I think she's had some success with using beef jerky but she is a good label reader - anything over 10% fat isn't fed.

Honestly? Stop playing tug. Find another method of motivating the dog.

Definitely look like the product of a merle/merle mating but if they're Aussies's they're not very good examples of the breed. Could be working breed mix. BC's and Coolies can be merle too.

Can't say I blame you - why do dogs never chew the cheap stuff

FHRP's legendary food thief Flynn has eaten a few containers of fish food in his time. No ill effects.

In terms of who'd have given him your number, I'd look to friends or work colleagues who don't know much about dogs.

How about you take the first two letters of each dog's name That gives you NODAJO :D

What country is IOD from??

Ignore the Oscar winning acting performance and proceed as normal. :p

There is no way in God's green earth you'd get me into a dog park with 40 offlead dogs on any day. That's one hell of a pack looking for something to happen.

Howie ate the last three pages from a mystery novel when he was a bub. :p Thank God I can now leave a pile of books on the bedside table unmolested. How quickly we forget what puppies are like.

You should see my wooden venetians. :p

Yep, right down to having an orthotic with its own special "finish". :p

I havent' seen the behaviour but I'd have to say I'm not so sure. Circling behaviour doesn't sound like an invitation to play to me. Is he like this with all strange dogs or just certain types of dogs. I'd say he's not really a candidate for the dog park if there are other users. This is an invitation to aggression from the other dog AND hadly a very pleasant experience for the other dog's owner. I'd be leashing up and leaving. While he might not be the one to start a fight, given his breeding, I'd say he'll be likely to finish and ice one if it breaks out. Not want you want at all.

lopolla: Sorry but while you continue to provide access to attractive items to chew - if she does it IS your fault. No point in getting pissed off at the dog. Why is this important? Because recognition by owners that its THEIR responsiblity for what their dogs chew is the key to success in stopping it. It's not about "judging" but about giving advice to the one individual in these circumstances who's likely to be able to fix the situation by changing. That's you Lopolla or me when it happened to me. No amount of punishment or time outs is going to fix this. All you might achieve is a confused dog that is wary of you in the house. Not what you're after I'm sure. Same logic applies to toilet training - incidents in the house are the owner's fault. If the owner takes responsibility and changes their levels of supervision and frequency of access outside, the dog gets trained. Blaming the dog doesn't achieve anything. Same with recalls, pulling on the lead etc. Most dogs get into bad habits because we allow them to happen. As a dog owner, my view is that the more we take responsiblity for what our dogs do, the easier it is to stop unwanted behaviour. Nothing "judgemental" about it.